16-18 inch shorty rifles

Edit:
BLUF: In a 6mm Creedmoor, would chopping barrel from 18” to 14.5” cause a 200+ fps MV loss or cause any other issues I’ve not thought about based on the description below?

Trying to build a do-it-all night hunting gun.

Current Specs:
Tikka action + bits and pieces
MDT XRS
18” 6mm Creedmoor Keystone Accuracy barrel I got off eBay for a smoking deal
Diligent Defense LTI

Currently shoots factory hornady 105 grain BTHP’s at ~2850 and 87 grain VMAX’s at ~2950

I want to go as short as practicable to hunt pigs and coyotes/bobcats so will stick between those 2 projectiles. 90% of the time I can move within 200 yards of pigs (usually a lot closer) and can call coyotes within the same 200 yard range so I’m not terribly concerned with screaming velocities.

Thinking of having my gunsmith chop the barrel to 14.5” and would like to achieve (at a minimum) 2650 fps with 105’s and 2750 fps with the VMAX’s while cutting down on OAL of the rifle. Basically putting the barrel approximately 1” past the end of the handguard.

Have scoured the internet to see if anyone has gone that short with a 6CM and have only found results for a 6.5CM. Has anyone gone shorter than 16” on a 6CM and what were your results?

Thanks, cheers
 

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Is the 3.5” really going to make a difference in your maneuverability????? To me it isn’t worth ruining a muzzle device by pinning and welding it, the cost of cutting and threading the barrel again, or if you don’t pin and weld the expense of registering the receiver on a form 1…….

If I wanted shorter I would buy a shorter suppressor…..

Just my thoughts.
 
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Is the 3.5” really going to make a difference in your maneuverability????? To me it isn’t worth ruining a muzzle device by pinning and welding it, the cost of cutting and threading the barrel again, or if you don’t pin and weld the expense of registering the receiver on a form 1…….

If I wanted shorter I would buy a shorter suppressor…..

Just my thoughts.
I have shorter suppressors so that is something that has been played with. Even my 6” STi feels long compared to what I’m envisioning. Also, costs associated with P/W or Form 1 vs. cost and wait time associated with new suppressor and a form 4 seems like a pretty simple mathematical decision to make…

All of my cans use the plan b/Rearden suppressor adapters so not at all concerned with ruining a muzzle device via P/W.

In my mind 3.5” is pretty significant, especially when compared to the 5.56/.223 movement towards 13.7”-14.5” from 16” barrels. It’s not drastic but it’s noticeable for sure.

This is more something to tinker with that I think would be cool, I just have not ever seen it done for a 6CM and if those MV’s are even theoretically achievable then I’ll give it a shot
 
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My logic was more the suppressor will be useful on multiple hosts. Yes your paying the same $200 but just seems to get close to the same length, and should have higher velocity.

Just my opinion.
 
I have shorter suppressors so that is something that has been played with. Even my 6” STi feels long compared to what I’m envisioning. Also, costs associated with P/W or Form 1 vs. cost and wait time associated with new suppressor and a form 4 seems like a pretty simple mathematical decision to make…

All of my cans use the plan b/Rearden suppressor adapters so not at all concerned with ruining a muzzle device via P/W.

In my mind 3.5” is pretty significant, especially when compared to the 5.56/.223 movement towards 13.7”-14.5” from 16” barrels. It’s not drastic but it’s noticeable for sure.

This is more something to tinker with that I think would be cool, I just have not ever seen it done for a 6CM and if those MV’s are even theoretically achievable then I’ll give it a shot
I'm putting together at 16" 6cm for this purpose. Going to use an resonator k or an U7. Not planning on any shorter because I've got enough SBR's. I've chased the rabbit of finding the perfect hog gun and haven't found it but I've circled my way back to using a 3030 for the day cause it's cool and a 16" SFAR at night. I just painted my 556 so I want to blast some with that, so I'll bring that out next hunt. I'm liking the extra power of the 308 for some of the shitty shots lately. The hogs have gotten smarter and it's been tougher than usual and there is no replacement for displacement, so I've put up with the extra length of the 308w/ suppressor. and honestly I haven't noticed it. I haven't missed a hog because I couldn't pull it out quick it enough from the truck.

But shoot, try it and see what happens. Could be cool
 
I'm putting together at 16" 6cm for this purpose. Going to use an resonator k or an U7. Not planning on any shorter because I've got enough SBR's. I've chased the rabbit of finding the perfect hog gun and haven't found it but I've circled my way back to using a 3030 for the day cause it's cool and a 16" SFAR at night. I just painted my 556 so I want to blast some with that, so I'll bring that out next hunt. I'm liking the extra power of the 308 for some of the shitty shots lately. The hogs have gotten smarter and it's been tougher than usual and there is no replacement for displacement, so I've put up with the extra length of the 308w/ suppressor. and honestly I haven't noticed it. I haven't missed a hog because I couldn't pull it out quick it enough from the truck.

But shoot, try it and see what happens. Could be cool
I left a 6.5 CM gas gun and 300 HAM’R and went back to bolt guns for my night rigs. Personally, I make way better shots when I don’t have 19 or 29 more rounds and a quick trigger finger as a safety net. And to be honest, 10 rounds out of a bolt gun in a couple minutes is way more fun than 20 or 30 out of an AR. But that’s just me…

I have been very impressed with the 105 hornady BTHP’s on pigs and the 87 vmax anchors coyotes and bobcats. I have also used both projectiles on both applications and done fine but I head shoot every pig I can in terms of vmax performance
 
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I left a 6.5 CM gas gun and 300 HAM’R and went back to bolt guns for my night rigs. Personally, I make way better shots when I don’t have 19 or 29 more rounds and a quick trigger finger as a safety net. And to be honest, 10 rounds out of a bolt gun in a couple minutes is way more fun than 20 or 30 out of an AR. But that’s just me…

I have been very impressed with the 105 hornady BTHP’s on pigs and the 87 vmax anchors coyotes and bobcats. I have also used both projectiles on both applications and done fine but I head shoot every pig I can in terms of vmax performance
I need to try the bolt gun at night. The 6cm, I'm going to throw in a chassis and do it. I've used the precision hunter stuff and been happy but will try the 105 BTHP.

I think with the 308, I'm slowing down and I'm getting better shots on the hogs and giving too much credit to the round. I tend to do the same and spray a bit with an AR because I have the extra ammo. I got into a group with the 30-30 a week or two ago in some tight brush and it was awesome racking that thing and I made some great shots.
 
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Something different than the usual in here. My 6 year old will be deer hunting with me soon and I wanted to avoid the inevitable recoil flinching of a 12ga 3” slug on a 55lb kid (and associated wounded deer tracking). Bought a CVA Scout TD .300BLK 16”. The PST 2.5-10 was a placeholder I robbed off my coyote rifle, but I don’t hate it so it might stay.

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Something different than the usual in here. My 6 year old will be deer hunting with me soon and I wanted to avoid the inevitable recoil flinching of a 12ga 3” slug on a 55lb kid (and associated wounded deer tracking). Bought a CVA Scout TD .300BLK 16”. The PST 2.5-10 was a placeholder I robbed off my coyote rifle, but I don’t hate it so it might stay.

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That is a big old brake! Bet it hits your shoulder like a 22 and ears like a sledgehammer.
 
Good looking rifle. What stock? Sorry if I missed it somewhere back there in the thread.
It was a walnut blank. I originally fit and contoured it for a Rem700 .223 varmint. That barreled action has been gone a long time, so it was time to repurpose the good wood.
 
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Pigs here don't come out in open pastures like they do up north in TX, GA, etc. In order to push their shit in, I have to go to their house. I needed a cheap, handy rifle that could get scratched, rusted, and submerged in a creek when a 4x4 rolls over :cautious: . I got a $449 Ruger American in 6.5 Creed and cut it to 16.5".

The OEM stock was too long to get good eye relief; I added an MDT Chassis which weighed a bunch but allowed me to get right up to the eye cup with the collapsible stock.

I had no issues shooting deer eating sweet potatoes at 200+ with this setup last summer. I'd be confident taking a 300y shot, but no further. No fault of the rifle - the thermal resolution just doesn't support a vital shot at that distance. I can't see why a 6.5 Creed with a 16" barrel wouldn't be a great hunting rifle anywhere in the Southeast outside of unique circumstances.

I like being in good company of guys who know that long barrels are not a mandatory requirement on a rifle.

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Pigs here don't come out in open pastures like they do up north in TX, GA, etc. In order to fuck shit up, I have to go to their house. I needed a cheap, handy rifle that could get scratched, rusted, and submerged in a creek when a 4x4 rolls over :cautious: . So I got a Ruger American in 6.5 Creed and cut it to 16.5".

The OEM stock was too long to get good eye relief, so I got an MDT Chassis which added a decent amount of weight but allowed me to get right up to the eye cup with the collapsible stock.

I had no issues shooting deer eating sweet potatoes at 200+ with this setup last summer. I'd be confident taking a 300y shot, but no further. No fault of the rifle - the thermal resolution just doesn't support a vital shot at that distance. Unless you're hunting out west or routinely take 300+ yard shots over clearcuts I can't see why a 6.5 Creed with a 16" barrel wouldn't be a great hunting rifle anywhere in the Southeast.

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T

Where exactly do you hunt?
 
Pigs here don't come out in open pastures like they do up north in TX, GA, etc. In order to push their shit in, I have to go to their house. I needed a cheap, handy rifle that could get scratched, rusted, and submerged in a creek when a 4x4 rolls over :cautious: . I got a $449 Ruger American in 6.5 Creed and cut it to 16.5".

The OEM stock was too long to get good eye relief; I added an MDT Chassis which weighed a bunch but allowed me to get right up to the eye cup with the collapsible stock.

I had no issues shooting deer eating sweet potatoes at 200+ with this setup last summer. I'd be confident taking a 300y shot, but no further. No fault of the rifle - the thermal resolution just doesn't support a vital shot at that distance. I can't see why a 6.5 Creed with a 16" barrel wouldn't be a great hunting rifle anywhere in the Southeast outside of unique circumstances.

I like being in good company of guys who know that long barrels are not a mandatory requirement on a rifle.

View attachment 8427431View attachment 8427432

Damn, why didn't you go with the howa? They sell barreled actions already threaded and 16.25" barrel.

Nonetheless, you got yourself a nice little truck gun that shoots great. Keep it up!
 
The new plinker/truck gun. kel tec sub2000 gen3 9mm
Due to the design the 16” kel tec is 5” shorter than a standard 16” ar15 so the sub2000 rifle oal is the same as an 11.5” ar.

6.8lbs with an empty mag
4.2lbs bare rifle
Folds and rotates to clear sight/optic and locks onto the buttstock
Takes glock mags

Took it out to 750yards the first time out today and had to do a few 30rd mag dumps on steel up close messing around.
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Haha I knew I was going to catch shit for putting an expensive optic on a $450 carbine. Just got the March not long ago so I’ve been switching it around trying it out on different set ups. Il probably end up running a red dot or microprism set up on it permanently.
 
Pigs here don't come out in open pastures like they do up north in TX, GA, etc. In order to push their shit in, I have to go to their house. I needed a cheap, handy rifle that could get scratched, rusted, and submerged in a creek when a 4x4 rolls over :cautious: . I got a $449 Ruger American in 6.5 Creed and cut it to 16.5".

The OEM stock was too long to get good eye relief; I added an MDT Chassis which weighed a bunch but allowed me to get right up to the eye cup with the collapsible stock.

I had no issues shooting deer eating sweet potatoes at 200+ with this setup last summer. I'd be confident taking a 300y shot, but no further. No fault of the rifle - the thermal resolution just doesn't support a vital shot at that distance. I can't see why a 6.5 Creed with a 16" barrel wouldn't be a great hunting rifle anywhere in the Southeast outside of unique circumstances.

I like being in good company of guys who know that long barrels are not a mandatory requirement on a rifle.

Building this exact gun except 6mm creed and black on the chassis. Shoot all my hogs up close at day and night. Waiting on the gunsmith the cut the barrel and have a hydrogen S I'm gonna throw on or an ultra 7.
 
Technically doesn’t belong in this thread, but it’s short and I think it looks cool.
Gonna get some lower scope rings and see about getting a cheek pad/riser.
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Remington 700CP .308.
Trued action
12.5” KAK 10 twist remage
Robbed my USO TS-12x from my Ruger Scout to see if it suites my needs on this rig.
 
Finally finished inletting and fitting the Origin and Hawkins bottom metal.

General purpose hunting rig.
18" Benchmark Carbon, 6.5 PRC

7lbs 13oz (w/o bipod)
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10lbs 13oz (CFU)
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Absolutely love the wood stock with carbon. Did you have to take out much on the barrel channel? I have a #4 I'm trying to put in my sako.
 
Absolutely love the wood stock with carbon. Did you have to take out much on the barrel channel? I have a #4 I'm trying to put in my sako.
Going from a Rem Varmint contour to the Benchmark Sendero Lite wasn't bad at all. There was a small section about 4" from the lug where the contours didn't match and had to be relieved slightly.

I used two layers of painters tape to protect the carbon, and create clearance. Then with sandpaper between the barrel and the stock I sanded the touch points. No action screws just the weight of the barreled action works great and creates perfect lines between the barrel and forend.

This blank is next:
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