That's good to know. I think I will start looking at completed rifles again.
I appreciate your advice.
Thank you,
I appreciate your advice.
Thank you,
-
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If you are chasing all the accuracy make your way over to the Tac OPs thread. Mike does things a little bit different.
Personally I think the best way into a new hobby is to buy what others think is a “decent” thing. Don’t buy something near the top (AI) or bottom (Savage).
That way you can keep it when/if you upgrade, or it’ll be easier to sell than a low end thing.
This Tikka CTR 6.5cm (or 308) is $1250, includes one magazine:
$900 - Origin is $900 just for the action!
$300 - trigger
$500 - threaded SS prefit (at least this much)
$400 - KRG Bravo chassis (no options!)
$ 70 - Accurate Mag AICS mag
———
$2170
With shipping charges that’s about a $1000 difference.
Otherwise you could buy some used Remington or Bergara Premier (the Premiers have exchangeable boltheads too, but the heads might be hard to get).
With the former you’ll have to know which ones to stay away from…definitely avoid the ones around the time they went bankrupt. I hear the 5r-rifled ones are good, and the current ones might be good too (read only a couple positive posts, do your research).
The Premiers come with a decent trigger, the Remingtons do not.
NOT VOUCHING FOR THE SELLERS BELOW
These are examples I might buy; some are sold. They happen to be in reasonable calibers (223, 6.5cm, or 6cm) that are easy to shoot.
The second R700 one is exactly like my R700 was when I bought it, only mine was in 204:
That way you can keep it when/if you upgrade, or it’ll be easier to sell than a low end thing.
This Tikka CTR 6.5cm (or 308) is $1250, includes one magazine:
$900 - Origin is $900 just for the action!
$300 - trigger
$500 - threaded SS prefit (at least this much)
$400 - KRG Bravo chassis (no options!)
$ 70 - Accurate Mag AICS mag
———
$2170
With shipping charges that’s about a $1000 difference.
Otherwise you could buy some used Remington or Bergara Premier (the Premiers have exchangeable boltheads too, but the heads might be hard to get).
With the former you’ll have to know which ones to stay away from…definitely avoid the ones around the time they went bankrupt. I hear the 5r-rifled ones are good, and the current ones might be good too (read only a couple positive posts, do your research).
The Premiers come with a decent trigger, the Remingtons do not.
NOT VOUCHING FOR THE SELLERS BELOW
These are examples I might buy; some are sold. They happen to be in reasonable calibers (223, 6.5cm, or 6cm) that are easy to shoot.
The second R700 one is exactly like my R700 was when I bought it, only mine was in 204:
My money pit is finally into a configuration I’m happy with after 3 optics, 3 barrels, and 2 chassis.
Originally a Tac A1
Proof 22” carbon wrapped prefit, 6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo modified to fit the left handed action
EGW HD 20 MOA base
MPA 0 MOA mount
Kahles K525i DLR
Atlas BT65 w/ RRS mount
SilencerCo Harvester Evo
Sterk bolt handle
Not pictured (because it’s lost lol) is a Magpul sling
Originally a Tac A1
Proof 22” carbon wrapped prefit, 6.5 Creedmoor
KRG Bravo modified to fit the left handed action
EGW HD 20 MOA base
MPA 0 MOA mount
Kahles K525i DLR
Atlas BT65 w/ RRS mount
SilencerCo Harvester Evo
Sterk bolt handle
Not pictured (because it’s lost lol) is a Magpul sling
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Oh yeah, downside of a factory Rem or Bergara is AFAIK there are no prefits available for them. I’d go Tikka.
Brownells finally had Sterk bolt handles in stock, so I ordered a swept handle, a 20 MOA MDT scope rail and a new trigger spring for my UPR.
Also: How the fuck do Tikkas cost half in 'murica compared to even Finland?
Also: How the fuck do Tikkas cost half in 'murica compared to even Finland?
I agree. I’ve had M70s, R700s (factory and a few customs), a TL2, a few AIs, and now a few Tikkas. Nothing can top an AI in my opinion, but I don’t have that kind of budget anymore. I do still have an FN SPR (which is an M70 action) that’s very, very nice, but the Tikkas are amazing at a third the cost. The actions are buttery smooth, the 70* bolt lift is nice and short (though a tad heavier than a regular 90*), and they’re amazingly easy to work on. Factory barrels are a tad on the slow side, but they almost always shoot very well. For a factory option they’re now my go-to, and I’m perfectly happy running them. I still lust for another AI, but until I can get one the Tikkas make for a fine poor-man alternative!
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Haha… Believe me, the slim availability of left handed guns and accessories has made me consider trying to train myself to shoot right handed instead.
No friend. Stay strong.
Left handed accessories? Chassis? Modify it yourself. It's not hard. 2 stage triggers? Krg midas (when it was available) you could push out the safety (with a follower) and trade it with the factory safety lever. Don't remember who did it off the top of my head but it has been done.
If you are ever going to reload don't shoot a right-handed gun left handed. I've linked to relevant posts before but don't remember where right now.
Left handed accessories? Chassis? Modify it yourself. It's not hard. 2 stage triggers? Krg midas (when it was available) you could push out the safety (with a follower) and trade it with the factory safety lever. Don't remember who did it off the top of my head but it has been done.
If you are ever going to reload don't shoot a right-handed gun left handed. I've linked to relevant posts before but don't remember where right now.
I shot right handed guns left handed from the time I was 5-6 years old until I was around 18 years old. Haven't looked back since. I had a friend with a mill machine the bolt handle notch in my Bravo. Works fine that way, but still it's an extra step that shouldn't be necessary. My rifle was originally a Tac A1, so it has a two stage trigger in it - though I would actually prefer a single stage I think. I put a lighter spring in it and adjusted it to around a pound and a half. I don't like it as much as the flat single stage TT Diamonds in my R700 platform rifles, but it's more than acceptable. Interested to see what options TT makes available now that they're making Tikka triggers.
I’ll gladly trade you a factory single stage for your two stage lol. Big two stage fan here, and I have one with a factory single and just got one with a Midas. I’m hoping they release an updated Midas soon so I can run them on both!
Any tips on removing the forend from a Tac A1? The screws are on so tight. I pointed my heat gun right at the front screw head for about 5 minutes (loctite started to smoke) but it still won't budge. Is the loctite applied near the head of the screw or the other end? I'm gonna try a soldering iron tomorrow to see if that does the job.
I know you probably have this resolved or solved.
In the future I would suggest a ringed nail cross drill thru the crack, side to side, trim the ringed nail short of the stock width and test fit multiple times. Buy a product called double bouble epoxy and a dental flush syringe. Make sure you either have a good bit of surgical tubing or small wood working quick clamps. Flush the crack with 100% alcohol multiple times and try to blow the excess out.
Once you have gotten everything together, you've drill the hole, now test fit it and do a dry run making sure you can close the crack up completely.
Once you are happy with your process and you're certain that you can make this happen. Place your stock outside in the direct sunlight for a hour or more, needs to get hot to the touch, not blister you hot, uncomfortable to hold hot. Now mix up two "kits" of double bouble, pour them into one of the flush syringes, with the stock still in the sun, inject the epoxy into the crack making sure you fill the hole drilled for the ringed nail. A little blue painters tape on either end with the stock laying on its side, fill the drilled hole, paying close attention to the weeping, it will let the bubbles rise to the top and will need to be monitored to keep the drilled hole full of epoxy. Once you have the crack injected and the drilled hole full, clamp or wrap the stock using the surgical tubing pulled extremely tight, now bring the stock into a cool area and the cooling effect will draw the epoxy in deeper.
Double Bubble is some great stuff, you just need to remember that the pot life on double bubble is 6-10 minutes. Clean up can be done with an Xacto with careful motions.
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Pretty much every thread on a Tikka, including the barrel into the action, has some kind of aggressive thread locker on it. The forend on my Tac A1 was tight, but I was able to muscle it loose without needing a heat gun or anything. If it won't budge, you may be able to use some kind of penetrating oil like PB blaster to get down in there and help loosen it.
Looking for gunsmith's knowledgeable about removing an ome Bbl., inspecting a 2nd Tikka Bbl. and installing 2nd BBl.
Thank you
Thank you
The 25 or so I’ve done didn’t require that. And the undamaged barrels are salable or reusable.
I’ve see this before, but don’t understand what’s so hard about removing a tikka barrel.
I’ve see this before, but don’t understand what’s so hard about removing a tikka barrel.
I agree it’s not that hard.People make it out to be harder than it is or don’t know what hard really is.
Anecdotally, it appears that older T3 models are harder to spin off.
Before someone chimes in with the “too-deep pic rail screw” idea for the above barrels, the front base screw on Tikkas isn't on top of the threads.
It appears there is some truth to the “Effing Tight Tikka” myth.
Also, some personal experience in this matter (do check out the above links). I might as well come out and say it. Maybe it’ll help others in the future.
This horror story also just happened to me on my first ever barrel removal attempt. Happened to be a used T3. I had asked the seller why he was selling. He said, “I don’t need another project,” and in retrospect, he said it in a way that probably should’ve caused me to back away.
Maybe I had the exterior action wrench too tight, or maybe the factory barrel was threaded wrong at the factory, or maybe it was removed by an prev owner and reinstalled wrong. There was plenty of what appeared to be grease-like substance on the threads.
Maybe the prev owner used a too-long action screw? There was epoxy on the dovetail and down the threads where someone had glued down a pic rail, I imagine. Maybe some of the epoxy leaked forward into the barrel threads? Fuck if I know.
I certainly should’ve stopped once it was apparent that it wasn’t getting easier to unscrew. I had never dealt with galling before.
I used decent equipment. Short Action Customs Modular gun vise. Brownells exterior action wrench.
Sometimes you learn the hard way. My barrel is toast, and I think the action is too.
Look at that metal peeling off at the end of the threads.
Obviously not attempting to screw my nice expensive prefit into THAT.
Luckily I already have a T3x Super Varmint to use for the prefit. Having a gunsmith remove its barrel. I am now literally a bit “gun-shy” lol.
Before someone chimes in with the “too-deep pic rail screw” idea for the above barrels, the front base screw on Tikkas isn't on top of the threads.
It appears there is some truth to the “Effing Tight Tikka” myth.
Also, some personal experience in this matter (do check out the above links). I might as well come out and say it. Maybe it’ll help others in the future.
This horror story also just happened to me on my first ever barrel removal attempt. Happened to be a used T3. I had asked the seller why he was selling. He said, “I don’t need another project,” and in retrospect, he said it in a way that probably should’ve caused me to back away.
Maybe I had the exterior action wrench too tight, or maybe the factory barrel was threaded wrong at the factory, or maybe it was removed by an prev owner and reinstalled wrong. There was plenty of what appeared to be grease-like substance on the threads.
Maybe the prev owner used a too-long action screw? There was epoxy on the dovetail and down the threads where someone had glued down a pic rail, I imagine. Maybe some of the epoxy leaked forward into the barrel threads? Fuck if I know.
I certainly should’ve stopped once it was apparent that it wasn’t getting easier to unscrew. I had never dealt with galling before.
I used decent equipment. Short Action Customs Modular gun vise. Brownells exterior action wrench.
Sometimes you learn the hard way. My barrel is toast, and I think the action is too.
Look at that metal peeling off at the end of the threads.
Obviously not attempting to screw my nice expensive prefit into THAT.
Luckily I already have a T3x Super Varmint to use for the prefit. Having a gunsmith remove its barrel. I am now literally a bit “gun-shy” lol.
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Wow yeah that is bad. So I have only done carbon steel actions so far. Stainless is way more prone to galling. My factory barrels did not have near that much grease actually it was more white dry substance probably some form of loktite.
I have found the external action wrench bolts to be too short to get good thread purchase in the wrench. I would recommend going to Home Depot and getting longer fine thread bolts.
Did you soak barrel over night? Did you just use a cheater bar on the action wrench? I have had good luck hitting the action wrench with 3lb sledge hammer a couple times and it break free. The key to it’s a super tight barrel clamp and very sturdy bench that the clamp is attached to. If you think it’s tight enough in the clamp give it some more haha.
I put pieces of painter tape on the action where the wrench goes to prevent marring. I also try to imagine where the end of the threads will be on the barrel inside the action and try to clamp the external wrench as just past it but try to be on the most meat of the action.
Hopefully your gunsmith can fix the action.
I have found the external action wrench bolts to be too short to get good thread purchase in the wrench. I would recommend going to Home Depot and getting longer fine thread bolts.
Did you soak barrel over night? Did you just use a cheater bar on the action wrench? I have had good luck hitting the action wrench with 3lb sledge hammer a couple times and it break free. The key to it’s a super tight barrel clamp and very sturdy bench that the clamp is attached to. If you think it’s tight enough in the clamp give it some more haha.
I put pieces of painter tape on the action where the wrench goes to prevent marring. I also try to imagine where the end of the threads will be on the barrel inside the action and try to clamp the external wrench as just past it but try to be on the most meat of the action.
Hopefully your gunsmith can fix the action.
@carbonbased
Yeah, you need to use anti seize when installing a tikka barrel or it will do that for sure when you remove it.
Factory barrels are tight, but I haven’t run into one that’s not had some type of thread treatment from the factory.
If that was a used action and the other guy had removed and reinstalled the barrel without anti seize, that’s on him.
The most extreme remedy I’ve seen is plugging the barrel with a spent round (primer still in the case) and placing the action barrel down, then spraying Kroil into the action and allowing it to seep into the threads.
Heard that works if you have resistance doing it the barrel vise/ action wrench way.
Also, wrap a paper towel or TP cardboard roll (the part that’s left when you’ve used all the tp) around the barrel before you clamp it into the barrel vise. Holds the barrel more snug and prevents marring.
Yeah, you need to use anti seize when installing a tikka barrel or it will do that for sure when you remove it.
Factory barrels are tight, but I haven’t run into one that’s not had some type of thread treatment from the factory.
If that was a used action and the other guy had removed and reinstalled the barrel without anti seize, that’s on him.
The most extreme remedy I’ve seen is plugging the barrel with a spent round (primer still in the case) and placing the action barrel down, then spraying Kroil into the action and allowing it to seep into the threads.
Heard that works if you have resistance doing it the barrel vise/ action wrench way.
Also, wrap a paper towel or TP cardboard roll (the part that’s left when you’ve used all the tp) around the barrel before you clamp it into the barrel vise. Holds the barrel more snug and prevents marring.
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I did not soak the action or heat it. It was a thin-ass Tikka sporter barrel that gets thin very fast…a steep incline. I had to use a ton of rosin and of course used something to attempt to protect the barrel (index card-thickness paper).
After struggling mightily to get any sort of purchase on the barrel’s incline, I finally found the magical spot where there was some grip.
The USA-made Brownells exterior action wrench screws seem plenty long, btw. I have heard your advice regarding screw replacement on the Wheeler wrench, however.
No cheater bar. I did use a 3 or 5 lbs engineer’s hammer on the fucker. A bunch of times. Pretty hard, at the end. Put a dent on the 1.25” thick solid steel handle of the external actional wrench.
I didn’t go Godzilla, but I wasn’t nice toward the end. That fucker was coming OFF no matter what.
After I got it started with the engineer’s hammer, I had to pound off the barrel with a rubber mallet every inch of the way. Pretty dumb of me; should’ve quickly stopped.
Oh well, like I mentioned above, sometimes you gotta learn the hard way. I’m pretty mechanically competent but this was my very first run-in with galling, and I unluckily didn’t run across any warnings about action wrench tightness nor about galling when removing a factory barrel.
I did know about installing a SS barrel (AI) and galling, however. I use anti-seize when I swap barrels.
This was both a used T3 action and a factory 204 barrel. Back when Tikka made 204 barrels…I thought I had gotten lucky when I found it
After struggling mightily to get any sort of purchase on the barrel’s incline, I finally found the magical spot where there was some grip.
The USA-made Brownells exterior action wrench screws seem plenty long, btw. I have heard your advice regarding screw replacement on the Wheeler wrench, however.
No cheater bar. I did use a 3 or 5 lbs engineer’s hammer on the fucker. A bunch of times. Pretty hard, at the end. Put a dent on the 1.25” thick solid steel handle of the external actional wrench.
I didn’t go Godzilla, but I wasn’t nice toward the end. That fucker was coming OFF no matter what.
After I got it started with the engineer’s hammer, I had to pound off the barrel with a rubber mallet every inch of the way. Pretty dumb of me; should’ve quickly stopped.
Oh well, like I mentioned above, sometimes you gotta learn the hard way. I’m pretty mechanically competent but this was my very first run-in with galling, and I unluckily didn’t run across any warnings about action wrench tightness nor about galling when removing a factory barrel.
I did know about installing a SS barrel (AI) and galling, however. I use anti-seize when I swap barrels.
This was both a used T3 action and a factory 204 barrel. Back when Tikka made 204 barrels…I thought I had gotten lucky when I found it
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Also,
I’ll bet your smith could run a tap into that action and clean it up so you can still use it with a tikka barrel.
I’ll bet your smith could run a tap into that action and clean it up so you can still use it with a tikka barrel.
Oh yeah, I really, really doubt this action is salvageable. The threads are buggered up even back near-ish the chamber, and really torn up near the front.
I am scratching my head on what caused this. The barrel threads are effed everywhere, even near the muzzle side (flattened). Maybe my action wrench tightness is the cause?
I think I will mount it on my wall to remind me what NOT to do.
Anyone want a Tikka factory 204 sporter barrel? It’s vintage, has a little patina, shoots .8 MOA all day long glass candy cane do my part plenty of threads left rechamber it’ll clean up with a tap. $700.
I am scratching my head on what caused this. The barrel threads are effed everywhere, even near the muzzle side (flattened). Maybe my action wrench tightness is the cause?
I think I will mount it on my wall to remind me what NOT to do.
Anyone want a Tikka factory 204 sporter barrel? It’s vintage, has a little patina, shoots .8 MOA all day long glass candy cane do my part plenty of threads left rechamber it’ll clean up with a tap. $700.
Here’s some pics of the uncleaned action immediately after barrel removal. I think I had only wiped it out the best I could with a paper towel at this point.
Perhaps this will help the post-mortem.
Perhaps this will help the post-mortem.
Always hard to tell from pics but I’m reasonably sure LRI could get you back up and running.
I heard similar from other rifle manufacturers and rifle smiths in Denmark/Sweden. Hence the shape of the end of the action. There was talk of using huge torque.
I don't know if it is true though.
edi
I don't know if it is true though.
edi
I've just noticed that Tikka's website now lists .308 Tact A1 as having a 1:10 twist barrel. Anyone heard about them changing to faster twists? Sure mine, few years old, is 1:11. I need to measure it now...
Does anyone know anything about cleaning the factory Tac A1 2 stage trigger? Mine has gotten a little inconsistent in pull weight and I thought flushing it could be a good idea. Any reason I can't use zippo/lighter fluid?
Tikka T3 CTR in .308 with a PSE E TAC Stock with NVG rail. SPUHR scope mount, Kahles K525i Scope. Supressor Hausken 224. Bolt handle is made by me.
Here's a question for folks who've had background running Tikka T3X family actions, and custom actions. I'm looking for input from guys who've run both, and have thoughts on the trade-offs.
I'm looking to do a new build that will be a LW hunting/field rifle, around 6.5 - 7 lbs before optic. Maybe a Bartlein or Proof CF, MDT HNT26 chassis. Currently I'm all in on Tikka T3X bolt guns. I have production, and customized Tikkas, but Tikka is all I have. Since I'm a LH shooter, Tikka works great and I like the smoothness and reliability of their actions, the bolt throw, etc.
Should I use one of my existing T3X actions for the build? Or is it worth considering a custom action? I've been looking at the Terminus Apollo lite action, which looks interesting, gets good reviews here, and has a 60 degree bolt throw. But not really sure that I need all those deluxe features for this particular LW rifle that won't be used for comps or precision. Now that you can get pre-fit barrels for Tikka (Proof, Preferred, PVA, etc), the selling point of a custom action that you can get prefits and install yourself, is less compelling than it used to be.
I'm looking to do a new build that will be a LW hunting/field rifle, around 6.5 - 7 lbs before optic. Maybe a Bartlein or Proof CF, MDT HNT26 chassis. Currently I'm all in on Tikka T3X bolt guns. I have production, and customized Tikkas, but Tikka is all I have. Since I'm a LH shooter, Tikka works great and I like the smoothness and reliability of their actions, the bolt throw, etc.
Should I use one of my existing T3X actions for the build? Or is it worth considering a custom action? I've been looking at the Terminus Apollo lite action, which looks interesting, gets good reviews here, and has a 60 degree bolt throw. But not really sure that I need all those deluxe features for this particular LW rifle that won't be used for comps or precision. Now that you can get pre-fit barrels for Tikka (Proof, Preferred, PVA, etc), the selling point of a custom action that you can get prefits and install yourself, is less compelling than it used to be.
