Should I buy a thermal fit upper or roll with what I have?

KCode

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 25, 2019
266
155
Well I got a Rosco K9 16" barrel and want to build as accurate setup as I can. I have 4 stripped uppers and I test fit them all to this barrel and they all went on the extension snugly but none were hard to put it in.

My question is for $79, should I get a thermal upper to start with? The other option is to possibly shim these. I don't have shim or have ever done it. So regardless, cost will be there.
 
ACCURATE measurements will tell you what your FIT really is.
Do you have a TAPER in the O.D. of the extension?
Barrel goes into the upper, easy at first, but the last little bit is tight?
That makes the fit loose in the strong area of the upper, and tight in the thin threaded area.
I think some of this taper (if not intentional) is the result of thread expansion when the extension is installed on the barrel.

So, got taper?
 
I didn’t see that anyone has mentioned it yet, but if you are going to the trouble to shim/loctite it you should probably true the receiver first.

In all honesty, you could probably just do nothing and it would shoot well within any needs within the rounds actual effective range. If you are punching paper or steel long range, that’s different.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cfshooter
For what its worth, thermal fit doesn't mean you will have uniform mating between the barrel extension and the receiver. It just means its undersized.

green loctite will solve that problem. SS shim more so if you need it. And once you buy both of those, you'll likely have enough to do 50+ rifles.
 
I keep referring to this image for barrel stability in an upper.
Clamping an extension to a faced upper holds the barrel to the thin threaded nose nice and tight.
If the extension has taper and fits loose inside the upper back where the upper has more strength
then expect it to move, wobble, when fired.

I'm guessing extensions bulge a little in the threaded area when torqued onto the barrel.
Nice tight fit for last 1/4" just means the extension doesn't fit the upper.

Blue goo, or my Spray On shim will fill the uneven gap but how do you make a tapered shim?
AR-Barrel-Support.jpg
 
Last edited:
I keep referring to this image for barrel stability in an upper.
Clamping an extension to a faced upper holds the barrel to the thin threaded nose nice and tight.
If the extension has taper and fits loose inside the upper back where the upper has more strength
then expect it to move, wobble, when fired.

I'm guessing extensions bulge a little in the threaded area when torqued onto the barrel.
Nice tight fit for last 1/4" just means the extension doesn't fit the upper.

Blue goo, or my Spray On shim will fill the uneven gap but how do you make a tapered shim?
View attachment 8456419

If you get the shimmed extension in far enough for the barrel nut to catch a thread, you can apply 620 or Indian Head to the inside of the receiver, and hand thread the barrel in. The barrel will be shimmed at the snout and glued for the taper.
 
If you get the shimmed extension in far enough for the barrel nut to catch a thread, you can apply 620 or Indian Head to the inside of the receiver, and hand thread the barrel in. The barrel will be shimmed at the snout and glued for the taper.
I did exactly that at the recommendation of proof (indian head gasket shellac) with a barrel I got that could fall out on its own if the receiver was tipped barrel end down. In hindsight, I should have just exchanged the bad example of a barrel, but availability was slim at the moment and I didnt want to wait longer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BCP
Well I got a Rosco K9 16" barrel and want to build as accurate setup as I can.

Whatever upper feels like it fits the best is fine. Maybe put a little grease on the extension, grease on the threads for sure.

That's a cheaper barrel unless it's literally rattling around in the extension I don't think you will squeeze noticeably more accuracy out of it by thermal fit. That's one of the last things you do when building a match rifle after you've covered all the other bases (custom barrel/bolt combo, trigger, handguard, receivers etc).
 
Well I got a Rosco K9 16" barrel and want to build as accurate setup as I can. I have 4 stripped uppers and I test fit them all to this barrel and they all went on the extension snugly but none were hard to put it in.

My question is for $79, should I get a thermal upper to start with? The other option is to possibly shim these. I don't have shim or have ever done it. So regardless, cost will be there.
Any upper you have will be sufficient for a Roscoe barrel. If you were doing a custom cut barrel I'd recommend a vltor upper or to bed it.
 
I would just glue or shim it in one of the uppers you already have. I do not think you will see the difference on target.
I done correctly you will.
A few months back I took an AR armorers course on how to accurize the AR platform.
I had an old project gun which I had apart more times than I can count and the fit was a little loose.
As part of the class we test first with match grade ammo to set a base line. I was able to take a criterion barrel from 1.5 MOA to somewhere between .55 & .8 MOA by shimming the barrel extension into the upper and using green loctite to secure it on place.
So yes, it does work.

If you are going to build an AR, why not go ahead and spend the few extra dollars and squeeze as much mechanical accuracy out of it as possible.

But, I would prefer to have a thermal fit upper and still loctite it in.
 
Last edited: