Battle of the Savage 110s

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Sergeant of the Hide
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Oct 14, 2020
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I’m looking to do a budget precision build and I am looking at two different flavors of Savage 110s, the Tactical and the Trail Hunter, but I’m not sure which to do, both seem to have advantages and disadvantages.

The Trail Hunter has a heavier barrel, and I like that, and I like the jeweling they did on the bolt, I know it doesn’t really do anything, but I like the look. But it does not take useful magazines (I define useful has 5 rounds and up, and typically AICS, if Mauser could do a 5 round magazine in the 19th century I will accept nothing less in the 21st century), the stock is non adjustable and kind of cheap looking, and I would need to add a scope rail and a different bolt handle. It is also $200 cheaper.

The Tactical has the right scope rail and bolt handle out of the box and takes real magazines, and the stock is adjustable (sort of) and I think the barrel is 2 inches longer, however it is also a thinner barrel, which I don't like, but it’s fluted and I like fluted. But it does not have the jeweled bolt and I really don’t like skinny hunting profile barrels, fluted or not, and while it’s decently accurate the reviews I have seen are not as glowing about it’s accuracy as they are with the Trail Hunter. It is also $200 more.

In the case of the Trail hunter I would have to get a chassis, the included stock is very flimsy and does not take real magazines and it is not adjustable. The Tactical has a much better stock and is set up for real magazines and it can be adjusted but I hate that style of adjustment, it seems very very old fashioned to me and can’t be done on the fly, ARs have had adjustable stocks for decades now and the modern ones are available with cheek risers too and for not much money, how is it that bolt guns seem to almost all be so behind and adjustable stocks cost more than most entry level rifles? Ultimately it would probably be replaced with a chassis too but it could wait a while, while the Trail Hunter I would consider unusable without it
(Magazines).

TLDR version:

Trail Hunter: $200 cheaper but needs about $100 in upgrades plus a chassis because the stock/magazines are horrible. Really good barrel though. Pretty bolt.

Tactical: More expensive but ready to use out of the box, and has a less crappy stock, I would still want a chassis but it could wait a bit. But the barrel is not as good and the bolt is ugly.

Basically I think the Trail Hunter is the better barreled action, but that’s all that it is, the stock is garbage, but the Tactical is usable out of the box but has a questionable barrel. The Trail Hunter is $200 cheaper but that comes down to only $100 cheaper after adding the scope rail and changing the bolt handle.

So which would you pick and why?
 
Meh. Neither. You aren’t happy with either as is and are talking about upgrades. Just buy a better action and barrel and chassis that you really want. There is no such thing as a budget build.
But there is such a thing as a budget and what I can afford.

The next level up would cost me $500-$1,000 more and not really give me that much more performance. The savage 110 is not a bad action, it has almost as much support as the Remington 700 and just about everyone makes pre fit barrels so it is a good platform to customize later.

The idea behind this is to find something affordable that has a good action and already has a decent barrel, not to do a ground up custom build. My intent is to do the entire build for around $1,000-$1,200, to include the chassis and possibly even the optic, but the whole thing, optic included needs to stay under $1,500 no matter what, that’s just the reality of my budget.
 
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You can nickel and dime your way over budget, or increase your budget. I think this is what Oregon is saying.

Buy rifle. Replace barrel. Replace stock. Replace bolt handle. Replace scope rail. Replace trigger. Now you have an “upgraded rifle” and a pile of parts that no one will buy. And, the heart of this precision rifle is an action known for inconsistent extraction/ejection.

In general, I feel it’s throwing good money after bad to buy a rifle with the intent of throwing a bunch of upgrades at it. Anymore, if it’s not what I want out of the box, I’ll pass.
 
I bought a 110 Tactical a couple years ago. 20” in .308. It will at times group down in the .3’s. Not consistently. That’s with a couple of my handloads. It’s more like a .66 consistent gun. I did rebarrel it with a 24” and picked up a little velocity. And managed a 94 2X 10 shot score at 1K yards late last year. It’s in an Oryx chassis with a Tract Toric 4-20 x50 scope.
 
I bought a 110 Tactical a couple years ago. 20” in .308. It will at times group down in the .3’s. Not consistently. That’s with a couple of my handloads. It’s more like a .66 consistent gun. I did rebarrel it with a 24” and picked up a little velocity. And managed a 94 2X 10 shot score at 1K yards late last year. It’s in an Oryx chassis with a Tract Toric 4-20 x50 scope.
Theseus’ Rifle…
 
Howa 1500 in a KRG bravo or a Tikka CTR. Both of those options leave room for a scope. I’d take either over another savage..
If adjustability isn't a concern, the CTR stock is pretty solid as far as plastic stocks go. That's my option also. I have 2 customs and a tikka CTR that keeps up. My Savage wouldn't be able to so it was sold a long time ago
 
But there is such a thing as a budget and what I can afford.

The next level up would cost me $500-$1,000 more and not really give me that much more performance. The savage 110 is not a bad action, it has almost as much support as the Remington 700 and just about everyone makes pre fit barrels so it is a good platform to customize later.

The idea behind this is to find something affordable that has a good action and already has a decent barrel, not to do a ground up custom build. My intent is to do the entire build for around $1,000-$1,200, to include the chassis and possibly even the optic, but the whole thing, optic included needs to stay under $1,500 no matter what, that’s just the reality of my budget.
But you talking about rebarreling one or a chassis for the other so right there you’re gonna add another $500. You’ve already blown your budget.

I have a real hard time going away from anything that doesn’t fit a Remington 700 footprint but if you absolutely had to you can buy a Howa 1500 barreled action off Brownells for 450 bucks. That would be a better place to start than a fully built rifle that you’re going to immediately take apart, throw half of away and spend 500 more dollars on just to get it back to where it was.
 
Howa 1500 in a KRG bravo or a Tikka CTR. Both of those options leave room for a scope. I’d take either over another savage..
I didn’t even know about KRG, I had been considering an MDT LSS with a Fab Defense RAPS stock but I like that better, and it’s the cheaper option too. A bit more after adding the tool less length of pull but I still like it more, Thanks!

I’m about to research the Howa 1500 HS Precision, but the Tikka is still coming in a bit high for my budget.
 
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I didn’t even know about KRG, I had been considering an MDT LSS with a Fab Defense RAPS stock but I like that better, and it’s the cheaper option too. A bit more after adding the tool less length of pull but I still like it more, Thanks!

I’m about to research the Howa 1500 HS Precision, but the Tikka is still coming in a bit high for my budget.
Look at the XLR element too. That way you can have your AR style adjustability if you want. They make one for the howa or just about any other action. Keep in mind, trigger availability is also an issue as you move away from a r700 footprint.
 
I have the Howa 1500 in 6.5cm in an XLR Element chassis. For what you seem to want I'd go that route instead of Savage. If you don't get all the add ones for the chassis, it's really inexpensive and super solid. You can trim the trigger spring on the 2 stage Howa easily and make it a decent trigger. I think it is about 3.5 pounds stock. Mine will shoot -1/4 inch groups which if I'm honest is probably the best I can do, lol.
 
I didn’t even know about KRG, I had been considering an MDT LSS with a Fab Defense RAPS stock but I like that better, and it’s the cheaper option too. A bit more after adding the tool less length of pull but I still like it more, Thanks!

I’m about to research the Howa 1500 HS Precision, but the Tikka is still coming in a bit high for my budget.
Look at ordering from Lockedloaded.com especially for the Tikka. Shipped to my coworker who has his ffl. Used them twice and they've been great.

I put together a tikka buying buide a few years ago.
Tikka buying guide T3 thread #3268
Page 66. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
 
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Probably the closest thing to precision on a budget is a standard RPR. Going that direction is a one way street. At least the RPR street has lots and lots of proverbial addresses, that address Precision Rifle and lots of folks shooting that platform which means lots of support. Only problem, Very little applicable for the RPR will work on other platforms

I like the idea of a Howa barreled action. So much will work as it has a R700 footprint. However,

Frankly, in the year of 2024, as has been said, there really is no budget build. Best plan, get an action with a R700 footprint, a Proof Pre-Fit steel barrel for that action, start out with a base chassis from MDT or MPA (nothing wrong with Foundation or Manners but in comparison they are big $$) a Trigger Tech Special trigger and a decent second tier scope. All of this you can sell when it comes time to upgrade. It’s stuff people will buy.

You’ll be much happier.

If not that get an MPA or a GA Precision production rifle. But they are pretty much getting to be fairly big budget. Nice rifles though and can’t go wrong with either.
 
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Savage Poors fighting over which shit rifle is the most polished turd…

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I’m one who likes Savage rifles.
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My first rifle was a Savage 10BA that I still own.

I bought a Savage 12FV (Cabela’s special) in 6.5 CM. I put it in an MDT LSS-XL chassis I bought at their Black Friday sale a few years ago and started load development.

This was shot at -20F on New Years eve.
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Since then I’ve replaced the barrel with an IBI and added a Rifle Basix Sav-1 trigger to it.
I have rifles that cost 4x as much but in all honesty other than the feel of the bolt there isn’t much difference other than bragging rights.

I had it out last Saturday.
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You will run into a lot of negative on here about Savage. To be honest a lot of that is deserved. The upside is they can be made to shoot very well, but as previous hide members will tell it can cost as much or more than starting with a bit more proven platforms.
I personally own several Savages the shoot much better than they should. On a budget I would start with a barrel from X-Caliber. The factory trigger can safely be tuned to around 2 lb. Bolts can be had for about $60. There are some decent options on stocks, I would search for something used. If you are set on a Savage it is not a bad place to start.
 
Savage Poors fighting over which shit rifle is the most polished turd…

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The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.

Can you get a more accurate rifle? Of course, and you can also get nicer looking rifles and rifles with better fit and finish, but is that worth thousands of dollars more when all you plan to do is a few trips to the 1,000+ yard range in a year because it’s a 4 hour and 45 minute drive away? No. It emphatically is not. Even if I had the budget I wouldn’t drop that kind of money on a range toy, because that is all this is.

You keep your .01 MOA improvement, I will keep my $10,000, thankyou, have a nice day, you were most unhelpful.
 
The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.

Can you get a more accurate rifle? Of course, and you can also get nicer looking rifles and rifles with better fit and finish, but is that worth thousands of dollars more when all you plan to do is a few trips to the 1,000+ yard range in a year because it’s a 4 hour and 45 minute drive away? No. It emphatically is not. Even if I had the budget I wouldn’t drop that kind of money on a range toy, because that is all this is.

You keep your .01 MOA improvement, I will keep my $10,000, thankyou, have a nice day, you were most unhelpful.
$250k a year won’t get you a Maserati and a precision rifle. Just sayin.
 
Our son used to build Savages. The last one he built, he loaned to his mother for a while, it shot great, really great. Had a 600 buck barrel, a 1000 buck chassis, a 200 buck trigger, not much left except the action body. So, yep, Savges can be made to shoot, but when you spend almost 2K to build a rifle, why build one that can never take you further? Call it elitism. Call it bullshit, I call it common sense to start out with something you can grow with.

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He now builds rifles using custom actions. Had problems with extractions.
 
The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.

Can you get a more accurate rifle? Of course, and you can also get nicer looking rifles and rifles with better fit and finish, but is that worth thousands of dollars more when all you plan to do is a few trips to the 1,000+ yard range in a year because it’s a 4 hour and 45 minute drive away? No. It emphatically is not. Even if I had the budget I wouldn’t drop that kind of money on a range toy, because that is all this is.

You keep your .01 MOA improvement, I will keep my $10,000, thankyou, have a nice day, you were most unhelpful.
It’s not elitism, it’s “been there, done that, got the t-shirt from the shitshow & not going backwards anymore”… 👍🏼

$250K is required to build a custom rifle? 🤣😂🤣
 
It’s not elitism, it’s “been there, done that, got the t-shirt from the shitshow & not going backwards anymore”… 👍🏼

$250K is required to build a custom rifle? 🤣😂🤣
You are missing the point. Not everyone can throw $15,000+ on a custom race gun, some people have to do the best they can with a realistic budget even if it is not the best, as long as it is good enough.

The elitism was the snark in that post with the South park meme.
 
The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.

Can you get a more accurate rifle? Of course, and you can also get nicer looking rifles and rifles with better fit and finish, but is that worth thousands of dollars more when all you plan to do is a few trips to the 1,000+ yard range in a year because it’s a 4 hour and 45 minute drive away? No. It emphatically is not. Even if I had the budget I wouldn’t drop that kind of money on a range toy, because that is all this is.

You keep your .01 MOA improvement, I will keep my $10,000, thankyou, have a nice day, you were most unhelpful.
The argument has NEVER been that you can't get a Savage to shoot accurately. The thing about Savages is how much it takes to get it to the mid level of everything else.

We are trying to help save you money in the long run. Frank (the HMFIC of this place) for a while recommended rpr's. Then he started recommending tikkas. Now he is saying you're not going to go wrong with a solus. My advice? Save up a little longer. Get something else that has been recommended to you so far.

Btw my Tikka. Still has the factory lite barrel and trigger. Started with a complete rifle for $836.
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A few years old


Recent solus vid
 
It’s not elitism, it’s “been there, done that, got the t-shirt from the shitshow & not going backwards anymore”… 👍🏼

$250K is required to build a custom rifle? 🤣😂🤣
You are missing the point. Not everyone can throw $15,000+ on a custom race gun, some people have to do the best they can with a realistic budget even if it is not the best, as long as it is good enough
What caliber and if I missed it, what is the upper end of the budget
I’m looking at around $1,500 altogether, for the rifle and the optic, to include the chassis or anything else the rifle needs.

I’m budgeting about $1000-$1,200 for the rifle/chassis, and another $300-$500 for the optic. Goal is to hit targets at 1,000 yards and beyond as a personal challenge for myself and fun, not competition or hunting, the range I will use has steel targets out to 1 mile, so it could be any range from 1,000 yards to 1 mile but 90% of it will likely be 1,000 yards or under.

My accuracy goal for the build is .6 MOA or better, but would settle for less than 1 MOA consistantly.

Right now I am looking at either 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 PRC.
 
You are missing the point. Not everyone can throw $15,000+ on a custom race gun, some people have to do the best they can with a realistic budget even if it is not the best, as long as it is good enough.

The elitism was the snark in that post with the South park meme.
What we have here is a failure to communicate!!

You’re missing our point as well. Some folks here use them as competition rifles, some guys on here its their duty guns and their lives depend on it. Other its a fun gun or a hunting gun.

Most have experienced Savage they are a crapshoot. Some shoot good and some shoot worse than a rusted out Mosin.

Based on what you would like to do. Pick up a Tikka. A little more than a savage price wise but way better long term (and cheaper) You can take your time upgrading it.
 
Dude stop with the 15000 biit. In your other thread about barrel length I posted a link to a solus ba for 1089. I suggest a krg bravo during their black friday sales . I got one last year for 189. So that's 1300. A hundred more than your budget.
 
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You are missing the point. Not everyone can throw $15,000+ on a custom race gun, some people have to do the best they can with a realistic budget even if it is not the best, as long as it is good enough

I’m looking at around $1,500 altogether, for the rifle and the optic, to include the chassis or anything else the rifle needs.

I’m budgeting about $1000-$1,200 for the rifle/chassis, and another $300-$500 for the optic. Goal is to hit targets at 1,000 yards and beyond as a personal challenge for myself and fun, not competition or hunting, the range I will use has steel targets out to 1 mile, so it could be any range from 1,000 yards to 1 mile but 90% of it will likely be 1,000 yards or under.
My accuracy goal for the build is .6 MOA or better, but would settle for less than 1 MOA consistantly.

Right now I am looking at either 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 PRC.
What does it take to get whatever rifle shootable?
For me? All I really required was a rail. Had a cheap pos optic that I could've put on, but I had previously bought my razor 2. Bought a Caldwell sling stud to pic adapter. Used the bipod I already had. If I had chosen a bravo chassis I could've gotten it sooner.

For a sense of the timeline.
Razor 2 (used from here) Sep 2019
Atlas cal, Jan 2020
Tikka Sept 2020
Chassis April 2021
Muzzle threaded Oct 2021
Suppressor July 2022
 
Dude stop with the 15000 biit. In your other thread about barrel length I posted a link to a solus ba for 1089. I suggest a krg bravo during their black friday sales . I got one last year for 189. So that's 1300. A hundred more than your budget.
A good suggestion, provided they run the same sale this year. My $15,000 comment is directed at some of the less helpful responses that seem to reek of elitism (like the one with the stupid Southpark meme). I have been trying to gather information for a few different aspects of this as I learn more and my thought process changes (for example now I am leaning more toward a Howa 1500 barreled action as opposed to the Savage 110s, and before that I was looking at an Axis 2 or Ruger American gen 2, so my thought could always shift back to savage again or even to something else, like the Solus). There are some here though (and you can’t honestly say I am wrong) that are very snobby about this stuff and seem to look down on anyone that doesn’t invest mega bucks in to custom everything, custom action, custom bolt, custom barrel, custom trigger, high dollar bespoke chassis, and an optic that costs at least as much, and that is who I am venting that frustration at.

Look at it this way, if your only goal is basic transportation and groceries, can a Ferrari do anything a Kia Soul can’t? No. Yet some of those Ferrari guys will damn sure turn their noses up at the mere dirty peasant and their “garbage” Kia Soul. Why, because a Kia Soul will not beat a Ferrari in a race, but then a fish will do a really lousy job climbing a tree so they don’t really have a valid point as racing was never the goal. Can a full custom Remington 700 run circles around a budget build at a match? Yep. But if you are not looking to win a match does that matter? Nope. Common sense but an elitist will ignore that and post some stupid meme about “poors” because they did not go out an buy the $15,000 custom gun like the cool kids.

Get it?
 
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A Ruger precision rifle is a fine entry level gun. It’s probably the bottom of what many would consider to be “competitive.” I have one. It shoots great, and it was less than $1200 when I bought it, new. The optic cost as much as the rifle, or a bit more.

No one said Savages don’t shoot. As a matter of fact, almost everyone agrees that Savages punch well above their class in accuracy/precision. It is EVERTHING else that former Savage owners complain about- including potential resale value.

Precision rifle is NOT a cheap hobby. The rifle is the least expensive thing you will buy- over the lifetime of your hobby. If you think a $1500 rifle is expensive, consider ammunition to burn out the barrel, match fees, travel expenses, class fees, etc.
 
You are missing the point. Not everyone can throw $15,000+ on a custom race gun, some people have to do the best they can with a realistic budget even if it is not the best, as long as it is good enough.

The elitism was the snark in that post with the South park meme.
Dude, that’s called humor, you must be like new-new to The Hide… Sarcasm and jokes are pretty heavy on here. I’d thicken up that skin a good bit.
 
OP: member for 4 years somehow. asks for advice
SH: gives advice OP doesn't like
OP: rants and tries to shit on everyone
SH: thread continues in downward spiral
OP: eventually leaves and goes home. much to everyone's delight

OP...ditch the Savage full of compromise. buy a tikka or solus or origin or whatever makes you and your POS Arken scope happy
 
Guess I`ve just been lucky ( if this thread is accurate! ) with my three Savage rifles. I knew the action on my 110 Storm in .223 was pretty smooth, but as hard as it is to fathom, and I was stupefied that it is, it`s as good as the one on my brand new Tikka Super Varmint. Now, the Tikka is new, so in 200-300 rounds? We`ll see. The 110 is boringly accurate and I think the Tikka may well be too. My 93R17 17HMR is just a blast. Functionally flawless and very accurate out to 200 yards. My Model 12 LRPV is just a tank of a gun. Sub-MOA groups at 500 yards are routine, extraction and ejection through 1300 rounds has been without issue. Like I say, guess I`ve just been lucky.

I have to add that IMO there`s definitely a difference between the higher end Savage guns ( the above mentioned LRPV would qualify as one, I think ) and the basic budget Axis line.
 
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For a strict budget build:

- A Howa 1500 barreled action from Brownells. 6.5 Creedmoor 24" threaded heavy-barrel with a decent/usable trigger. $450 normal pricing, wait for sales or coupons and you can regularly get them closer to $400 range. The actions are a little rough at first but after 500-1000 rounds they get pretty smooth.

- It you're handy/skilled and have tools: pillar bedding and finishing the barreled action into a laminate stock is a cost effective route for completing the rifle (plenty of online/video material for this)
OR
- Easiest route would be a chassis or stock with an internal aluminum chassis. (Howa's are not R700 footprint like someone mentioned) KRG, MDT/ORYX, XLR, etc. HS precision or Bell and Carlson options would also work and not require the purchase of a magazine.

Remaining items:
- Scope rail: I've always liked EGW HD Steel 20MOA scope rail for Howas
- Scope Rings: don't cheap out on these either
- Scope: No idea what is good budget scope these days. Used to like SWFA fixed scopes. $300 and actually tracked repeatedly.
- bipod/rear support bag
- Muzzle Device/Brake

TIP: If you actually shoot a lot, you'll end up spending more on ammo overtime than anything else


EDIT: Or wait and see if Aero Precision messes up another holiday sale and you can get a complete SOLUS rifle for under $1000
 
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Had a 600 buck barrel, a 1000 buck chassis, a 200 buck trigger....
We call that the Old woodsman's axe. :D

"I've owned this axe for over 50 years, wouldn't trade it for the world! I've replaced the head three times and the handle 11 times, but it's the best axe I've ever owned!"
 
I'm still in favor of a Solus barreled action (either from PVA or Aero), thrown into a relatively inexpensive chassis. It certainly isn't my actual flavor, but for the money involved would be very difficult to beat.

It would save one from building up an inexpensive rifle to one day realizing that he/she was still wanting more, and have to start over (therefore investing more money when funds are tight).
 
OP, almost everyone started out as you. The exact same. Just wanting to get good value for a new hobby, with no real goals for the sport except some range trips and trying to hit steel past 1km. Then guess what happens? You'll start to enjoy it. You'll spend more money on it. You'll realize you'll want to upgrade and try to sell your savage and cheap scope to pay for the upgrades, and find out that you are pretty much starting from scratch because no one wants to give you even 50% of what you paid for used "budget" gear. Try and listen to what everyone is telling you what real value is.
 
Just a note, considering how much you are harping on needing to be cheap.
The 6.5 PRC isn't the cartridge for you, stick with your other option of the 6.5CM

A Tikka T3X CTR would be a much better choice for you than the ones you are currently looking at.
You'd also be able to have good resale value when you finally are ready to step up and spend about $2500 to $3000 to have a really nice complete setup that you spec everything out yourself and put together.
 
OP, almost everyone started out as you. The exact same. Just wanting to get good value for a new hobby, with no real goals for the sport except some range trips and trying to hit steel past 1km. Then guess what happens? You'll start to enjoy it. You'll spend more money on it. You'll realize you'll want to upgrade and try to sell your savage and cheap scope to pay for the upgrades, and find out that you are pretty much starting from scratch because no one wants to give you even 50% of what you paid for used "budget" gear. Try and listen to what everyone is telling you what real value is.
I think your post and others are well meaning and not without merit. Maybe he can`t afford higher tier gear at this point? Should he just forego entering the hobby because downstream ROI may not be very good ? OR, maybe that decision should just be left up to him?Rather than disparage him and allude to his being a " poor " as some on SH are apt to do, maybe some could try to address his original questions. Either that, or refer him to other sites that might better address his inquiry more directly and with fewer attempts at redirection. Just one fellow SH poster`s thoughts!
 
I’m one who likes Savage rifles.
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My first rifle was a Savage 10BA that I still own.

I bought a Savage 12FV (Cabela’s special) in 6.5 CM. I put it in an MDT LSS-XL chassis I bought at their Black Friday sale a few years ago and started load development.

This was shot at -20F on New Years eve.
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Since then I’ve replaced the barrel with an IBI and added a Rifle Basix Sav-1 trigger to it.
I have rifles that cost 4x as much but in all honesty other than the feel of the bolt there isn’t much difference other than bragging rights.

I had it out last Saturday.
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Dude! You are Savage AF!!!
 
You are missing the point. Not everyone can throw $15,000+ on a custom race gun, some people have to do the best they can with a realistic budget even if it is not the best, as long as it is good enough.

The elitism was the snark in that post with the South park meme.
I drive a 2004 buick century with a crack across the windshield and cracked speakers that my grandmother died and left me. Im still not rich enough to waste money on a savage.
 
I think your post and others are well meaning and not without merit. Maybe he can`t afford higher tier gear at this point? Should he just forego entering the hobby because downstream ROI may not be very good ? OR, maybe that decision should just be left up to him?Rather than disparage him and allude to his being a " poor " as some on SH are apt to do, maybe some could try to address his original questions. Either that, or refer him to other sites that might better address his inquiry more directly and with fewer attempts at redirection. Just one fellow SH poster`s thoughts!
I think you're misinterpreting everything everyone is saying, myself included. People are giving him options that are barely above his current budget. If spending an extra hundred or 2 on your budget means you can't enter the hobby, good luck even affording ammo, which has already been stated as being the real high price item in the long run.

There's also a difference between not being able to afford better and a self imposed budget, which is what it seems OP has. If he says "hey guys this is all I can afford but really want to get into the sport, what can I get that will still work?", he would be getting different replies. But all he said is he wants to be cheap, with everyone here trying to persuade him not to be so cheap, for his own good. When he makes a new post saying he can't get his rifle to group because he only wants to spend $15 on a box of ammo since he only shoots a few times a year, what do you think the responses will look like?

Just the thoughts coming from a former savage owner.

To the OP: Along the way of my journey to "better" rifles, I had thought about buying a tikka CTR for my first precision rifle but I didn't. I ended up selling the rifle I bought instead to upgrade for a competition rifle, and eventually bought a CTR for a "budget" trainer. After the upgrades I made to the tikka and how it now compares to the custom rifle that cost twice as much, I can't help but look back and wish I had just bought the CTR as my first target rifle. I doubt it would have kept me from buying something custom, but I would probably still have it instead of selling it like I did the other rifle I bought.
 
You'll never convince some people that the Savage is good enough. You can however knock them off the podium. Even then, they won't likely concede. But it's pretty satisfying. I did it again a week ago last Saturday. And I can tell you, it never gets old. Now mine all have aftermarket barrels, so take that into account.

Having said that, nothing wrong with having a custom action. I probably wouldn't buy a Savage if I was going to rebarrel right out of the gate. Most Savages tend to shoot okay from the factory (0.6-0.7s). Some will shoot much better than that. In my experience, anytime you buy a new rifle, or new barrel, it's a bit of a crap shoot when it comes to accuracy. I've seen some high dollar rifles/barrels that didn't shoot for crap. And most accuracy guarantees are generally worthless. Buy what you can afford and enjoy yourself.