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Battle of the Savage 110s

#52
Shoots 700's said:
So you have 2 threads about the same topic. Savage can be accurate, try lifting the bolt or extraction of a stuck case and having to hammer the bolt.

There are reasons they are inexpensive and the trigger sucks as well.

I see a Savage in your future! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🎊🎊
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I've never seen a Savage bolt handle break but I have seen a Tikka break.
It's silver solered on.
 
#54
Thump_rrr said:
In Canada 2 CTR Magazines cost the same as a Savage rifle.
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Thats because the canuks called back to their french heritage and gave up putting this dumb fuck in charge
IMG_7918.jpeg



So maybe be less of a faggot next time
 
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#57
cas6969 said:
We call that the Old woodsman's axe. :D

"I've owned this axe for over 50 years, wouldn't trade it for the world! I've replaced the head three times and the handle 11 times, but it's the best axe I've ever owned!"
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Something tells me I have a few tools in the shed that are very similar. And then there was Farmer Louis Ward of French Camp Mississippi (one of the finest men I have ever known.)

He had us teenagers out splitting a post oak for a temporary fence. After we managed to bust no less than three handles, he became a bit incensed, wondering if ANY of us ever played baseball.
 
#58
9245 said:
The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.
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Dude, I’ve been down your road. 10 years ago, when I started in precision shooting, I bought a used 110 and modded the fuck out of it. After buying the tooling require to change barrels, new barrel, nut, lug, stock, pic rail, rings, and swfa 10x optic, it cost $2200. Shot well enough, wouldn't feed, extract, or eject for shit.

Now days, there are better options with better support for less than I spent on that savage. I basically wasted $2200 on a rifle I barely liked at the end and couldn't get rid of.

Also, what’s your ammo budget? Feeding whatever road you go down, is going to be far more expensive than any rifle suggested. My last 6.5 creed barrel died around 4300 rounds. In my AO hornady precision match runs about $42 a box, run the math and I put $9,245 worth or rounds through that gun, 3x what I spent on the build, with custom everything. And no, reloading will not be cheaper. The rifle is the cheap part of the equation bud.
 
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#59
BJames said:
Dude, I’ve been down your road. 10 years ago, when I started in precision shooting, I bought a used 110 and modded the fuck out of it. After buying the tooling require to change barrels, new barrel, nut, lug, stock, pic rail, rings, and swfa 10x optic, it cost $2200. Shot well enough, wouldn't feed, extract, or eject for shit.

Now days, there are better options with better support for less than I spent on that savage. I basically wasted $2200 on a rifle I barely liked at the end and couldn't get rid of.

Also, what’s your ammo budget? Feeding whatever road you go down, is going to be far more expensive than any rifle suggested. My last 6.5 creed barrel died around 4300 rounds. In my AO hornady precision match runs about $42 a box, run the math and I put $9,245 worth or rounds through that gun, 3x what I spent on the build, with custom everything. And no, reloading will not be cheaper. The rifle is the cheap part of the equation bud.
Click to expand...
This man spits facts.
 
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#61
9245 said:
The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.

Can you get a more accurate rifle? Of course, and you can also get nicer looking rifles and rifles with better fit and finish, but is that worth thousands of dollars more when all you plan to do is a few trips to the 1,000+ yard range in a year because it’s a 4 hour and 45 minute drive away? No. It emphatically is not. Even if I had the budget I wouldn’t drop that kind of money on a range toy, because that is all this is.

You keep your .01 MOA improvement, I will keep my $10,000, thankyou, have a nice day, you were most unhelpful.
Click to expand...
Savage sucks...The actions feel like someone dumped half the Sahara desert into each one before they boxed and shipped.

Look for an older G-Prefix Remington 700P for around 1k. I have one that is easily sub-moa (even with me behind it) that is under $1500 out the door. It happens to have B&C 'm40' stock (which you won't need if the one you buy has the original HS Precision or anything else half decent at all)...Spend a few bucks on a Badger or Hawkins M5 bottom metal for ease of reloading and adjust/tune the trigger. Badger or Nightforce scope base.

Stick a SWFA SS 10 or 12x on top in a pair of old school Badger Ordnance medium steel rings and you're done...Scour the PX here for deals.

You can always turn it into an M40A3 or A5 at any point, if you decide cloning is your thing as you'll already have a period-correct action from which to build upon.

If Remington isn't appealing to you, there's aforementioned Tikka, Howa and Ruger. Or spend a few more $$ for an Impact and prefit.
 
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#64
BJames said:
Dude, I’ve been down your road. 10 years ago, when I started in precision shooting, I bought a used 110 and modded the fuck out of it. After buying the tooling require to change barrels, new barrel, nut, lug, stock, pic rail, rings, and swfa 10x optic, it cost $2200. Shot well enough, wouldn't feed, extract, or eject for shit.

Now days, there are better options with better support for less than I spent on that savage. I basically wasted $2200 on a rifle I barely liked at the end and couldn't get rid of.

Also, what’s your ammo budget? Feeding whatever road you go down, is going to be far more expensive than any rifle suggested. My last 6.5 creed barrel died around 4300 rounds. In my AO hornady precision match runs about $42 a box, run the math and I put $9,245 worth or rounds through that gun, 3x what I spent on the build, with custom everything. And no, reloading will not be cheaper. The rifle is the cheap part of the equation bud.
Click to expand...
That is a somewhat helpful answer and I’m starting to look at other things now too.

To answer your question though, I’m not looking to compete, there is no possible way that I could afford to do that, this is just to challenge myself and have fun. My issue is the range. I live in an area far from any long range range, the closest 1,000 yard range is 3 hours and 15 minutes away, and there is a cheaper 1 mile range 4 hours and 45 minutes away, the others are much farther. In either case a range trip would be an all day thing so I probably will not be able to go more than a couple of times a year, so my shooting will be very limited, doubt it would be more than a few hundred rounds a year, if that, it’s not that I wouldn’t like to do more it’s that I just don’t have time to given the distance. This along with my budget is one of the reasons that I have budgeted this so tightly, I just won’t be able to shoot it enough to make the cost worth it for more. It might be different if I lived closer to the range. Locally most ranges max out at around 100 yards and a couple go to 200, this area sucks for shooting, at least for long range shooting. This is actually a money saver for me, trying to take on long range targets will still be fun but it will take me more time and less ammunition, even going through a few boxes of very expensive match ammunition will be much cheaper generally than burning through a case of cheap 5.56 or 9mm.

My budget reality is that even just saving the $1,500 for this project is taking several months, were I go to the next level up it could take me easily until next summer and for no real gain given how far away the range is.

I am always open to suggestions, that is the whole reason I am here and why I have so many threads asking questions, this is new stuff to me and I have enough budget to do this once so I need to get it right, but I also need to keep it as cost effective as I can.

I also considered a .22 at 200, but I just could not bring myself to drop that kind of money on a .22 when the same money could buy me something much more useful and personally satisfying. Ammo would be cheaper and more range time, but at the end of the day it would still just be a .22, I’d get bored with that very quickly.
 
#66
Howa howa howa. Pick up a 450 barrelled action 15% off for 400ish, get a chassis, or boyds for 3-500. Leaves 500 for a scope and is way more quality than savage. Savages shoot yes. So do most factory rifles now. My dad has them and replaces ejector springs and extractors yearly.
 
#67
9245 said:
That is a somewhat helpful answer and I’m starting to look at other things now too.

To answer your question though, I’m not looking to compete, there is no possible way that I could afford to do that, this is just to challenge myself and have fun. My issue is the range. I live in an area far from any long range range, the closest 1,000 yard range is 3 hours and 15 minutes away, and there is a cheaper 1 mile range 4 hours and 45 minutes away, the others are much farther. In either case a range trip would be an all day thing so I probably will not be able to go more than a couple of times a year, so my shooting will be very limited, doubt it would be more than a few hundred rounds a year, if that, it’s not that I wouldn’t like to do more it’s that I just don’t have time to given the distance. This along with my budget is one of the reasons that I have budgeted this so tightly, I just won’t be able to shoot it enough to make the cost worth it for more. It might be different if I lived closer to the range. Locally most ranges max out at around 100 yards and a couple go to 200, this area sucks for shooting, at least for long range shooting. This is actually a money saver for me, trying to take on long range targets will still be fun but it will take me more time and less ammunition, even going through a few boxes of very expensive match ammunition will be much cheaper generally than burning through a case of cheap 5.56 or 9mm.

My budget reality is that even just saving the $1,500 for this project is taking several months, were I go to the next level up it could take me easily until next summer and for no real gain given how far away the range is.

I am always open to suggestions, that is the whole reason I am here and why I have so many threads asking questions, this is new stuff to me and I have enough budget to do this once so I need to get it right, but I also need to keep it as cost effective as I can.

I also considered a .22 at 200, but I just could not bring myself to drop that kind of money on a .22 when the same money could buy me something much more useful and personally satisfying. Ammo would be cheaper and more range time, but at the end of the day it would still just be a .22, I’d get bored with that very quickly.
Click to expand...
Do you know if the closer ranges allow positional shooting, or is it only from a bench? Reason I ask, is because if they allow you to shoot in different positions you can get a lot more practice out of the close ranges while still being able to use the longer range a few times a year. This will make the "cost per use" of your rifle cheaper, even if you increase your budget.

Hitting targets at distance (around 1000m) isn't too terribly difficult. Especially if you are shooting prone or from a bench. Anyone can walk their shots in and hit a 2-3 moa target. You can hear the steel ring which is satisfying in itself, but really, there isn't much challenge. The challenge really comes when the targets get small (1-2 moa, or smaller), and making first round hits on any size targets. You need to get good at reading wind to make first round hits at distance, but you also need to get good at building steady positions. This is where shooting small targets at closer distance is a lot of help and is also just as fun (in my opinion, minus the sound of steel).

You can use the snipershide dot drill, or the kraft targets, while shooting from different positions and really hone in the fundamentals and your skills without needing to shoot long range all the time. It also might help justify getting something that isn't as much of a compromise due to use constraints.
 
#68
Jayhawkhuntclub said:
You'll never convince some people that the Savage is good enough. You can however knock them off the podium. Even then, they won't likely concede. But it's pretty satisfying. I did it again a week ago last Saturday. And I can tell you, it never gets old. Now mine all have aftermarket barrels, so take that into account.

Having said that, nothing wrong with having a custom action. I probably wouldn't buy a Savage if I was going to rebarrel right out of the gate. Most Savages tend to shoot okay from the factory (0.6-0.7s). Some will shoot much better than that. In my experience, anytime you buy a new rifle, or new barrel, it's a bit of a crap shoot when it comes to accuracy. I've seen some high dollar rifles/barrels that didn't shoot for crap. And most accuracy guarantees are generally worthless. Buy what you can afford and enjoy yourself.
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I only own one Savage. I’ve posted before when I first got it because the extraction sucked. Anyway, a larger detent ball and all is well. It’s not the smoothest action by far, but, it was only $600 from Bridgeport Machine and Tool in Marietta, OH on our way home from seeing Santana in Cuyahoga Falls, so at least there’s that.
The guy told me everyone wanted 6.5CM and so he couldn’t move the .308.
Savage 10 Ashbury Precision Ordinance. Turns out it’s a very accurate gun. I have a Timney trigger I’ve never installed 🤣
Hell, frankly, haven’t needed too. Actually love the gun. To the points made above, I did at least buy and extra trigger, grip that I prefer and XLR adjustable stock. So yeah, that’s probably $400 additional.

IMG_0788.jpeg
Ballistic-X-Export-2020-05-22 11:18:00.645443.png
 
#69
9245 said:
My budget reality is that even just saving the $1,500 for this project is taking several months, were I go to the next level up it could take me easily until next summer and for no real gain given how far away the range is.
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The gain is that your equipment will be significantly higher quality and you will enjoy shooting it more, also a less likely chance of an equipment failure, and a much higher chance for accuracy and consistency...For just a slight bit more money in the grand scheme of things. And if you don't like it, you're likely to get MUCH more of your money back on the used market, than if you built on a Savage.

Also, saying there's "no real gain given how far away the range is" shows you have no experience with long range shooting, or shooting a custom built rifle versus a factory rifle to understand how difficult it actually is to shoot at 1000+ yards. You will want EVERY advantage you can get. You don't see people shooting ELR matches with a Savage, Tikka, or Remington for a reason, and it's NOT because they're egomaniacs or think they're better than you.
 
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#70
Give my wife a week off and come clean the house, do the laundry and I’ll let you shoot my Savage. Hell, I’ll throw in the ammo and range for free. It’s a cheap education and you can be king of the poors with this gun.
 
#71
9245 said:
That is a somewhat helpful answer and I’m starting to look at other things now too.

To answer your question though, I’m not looking to compete, there is no possible way that I could afford to do that, this is just to challenge myself and have fun. My issue is the range. I live in an area far from any long range range, the closest 1,000 yard range is 3 hours and 15 minutes away, and there is a cheaper 1 mile range 4 hours and 45 minutes away, the others are much farther. In either case a range trip would be an all day thing so I probably will not be able to go more than a couple of times a year, so my shooting will be very limited, doubt it would be more than a few hundred rounds a year, if that, it’s not that I wouldn’t like to do more it’s that I just don’t have time to given the distance. This along with my budget is one of the reasons that I have budgeted this so tightly, I just won’t be able to shoot it enough to make the cost worth it for more. It might be different if I lived closer to the range. Locally most ranges max out at around 100 yards and a couple go to 200, this area sucks for shooting, at least for long range shooting. This is actually a money saver for me, trying to take on long range targets will still be fun but it will take me more time and less ammunition, even going through a few boxes of very expensive match ammunition will be much cheaper generally than burning through a case of cheap 5.56 or 9mm.

My budget reality is that even just saving the $1,500 for this project is taking several months, were I go to the next level up it could take me easily until next summer and for no real gain given how far away the range is.

I am always open to suggestions, that is the whole reason I am here and why I have so many threads asking questions, this is new stuff to me and I have enough budget to do this once so I need to get it right, but I also need to keep it as cost effective as I can.

I also considered a .22 at 200, but I just could not bring myself to drop that kind of money on a .22 when the same money could buy me something much more useful and personally satisfying. Ammo would be cheaper and more range time, but at the end of the day it would still just be a .22, I’d get bored with that very quickly.
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I get it man, and don’t think I ever mentioned competing. The purpose of a precision rifle isn’t linked to just competing. Delivering ordnance on target, precisely and accurately is the over simplified purpose of this type of system. Whatever purpose you assign it is up to you.

Here we value precision, accuracy, and reliability, pretty much hand in hand. Savages have a known track record of failing, Frank’s mentioned the reasons why in numerous videos and podcasts. Can you make them reliable, sure, but it didn’t work for me.

Several options that are in the same price range, if not cheaper, with a known track record of dependable, accurate rifles, with tons of support have been mentioned. There’s a bunch of ways to go. The secondary market is a great way to save cash and get that next level of rig, also.
 
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#73
Mbaysinger89 said:
Howa howa howa. Pick up a 450 barrelled action 15% off for 400ish, get a chassis, or boyds for 3-500. Leaves 500 for a scope and is way more quality than savage. Savages shoot yes. So do most factory rifles now. My dad has them and replaces ejector springs and extractors yearly.
Click to expand...
Actually exactly the way I am leaning right now. Arguably a bit better and actually cheaper too, the cheapest I could find the Savage 110 trail hunter was $510 and I would still have to replace the stock anyway, so that plan saves me $60-$110, which should cover the scope rail and bolt handle, so that kind of solves the problem.
BJames said:

30 second search on gun broker, found you a complete package, with a pelican case. Under budget too.
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$1,279 for the rifle, assuming it is not bid up, plus ridiculous $100 shipping, plus $400 for Bravo chassis, plus $300 for tool less LOP, plus $450 for the optic equals $2,529, that is $1,029 over budget. Even if I didn’t do the LOP that would still be $729 over budget, even without the chassis that is still $329 over budget, plus I am left with a non adjustable stock that is better suited to hunting than precision. My rifle budget is $1,000, my optic budget is $500 for $1,500 total, pretty much impossible to do that with the CTR. Now were I able to get just the barreled action for say $500-$600 sure, but otherwise it’s too much. Not at all interested in that stock.
 
#74
BJames said:
Dude, I’ve been down your road. 10 years ago, when I started in precision shooting, I bought a used 110 and modded the fuck out of it. After buying the tooling require to change barrels, new barrel, nut, lug, stock, pic rail, rings, and swfa 10x optic, it cost $2200. Shot well enough, wouldn't feed, extract, or eject for shit.

Now days, there are better options with better support for less than I spent on that savage. I basically wasted $2200 on a rifle I barely liked at the end and couldn't get rid of.

Also, what’s your ammo budget? Feeding whatever road you go down, is going to be far more expensive than any rifle suggested. My last 6.5 creed barrel died around 4300 rounds. In my AO hornady precision match runs about $42 a box, run the math and I put $9,245 worth or rounds through that gun, 3x what I spent on the build, with custom everything. And no, reloading will not be cheaper. The rifle is the cheap part of the equation bud.
Click to expand...
It wasn't a waste of money, it was an semi expensive lesson to learn that it's easier buying a rifle than building one.
SJC
 
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#75
At the end of the day, it's your money. Spend it as you wish.

Buy the Savage with the long barrel. According to most, you will also need a muzzle brake so you can spot hits. It is very frustrating to miss at long range and you cannot spot the impacts. Then the Bravo and whatever optic floats your boat. Scope mounts are quite important as well; UTG mounts should work and is priced right. And then a 20 MOA rail. Don't forget to budget for the chinesium Atlas-copy bipod. When you have money again, change the barrel. Don't forget the trigger.

Or, get the Tikka, the $10 trigger spring upgrade, a reasonable optic and good mounts. Shoot it off a X-bag while you save for the Bravo and reasonable bipod. If you have to have a bipod from the get-go, there are enough Harris-style bipods around that connect to the front sling stud at reasonable prices. This should set you up for 1000 yrd shooting while you save for the Bravo chassis and Atlas bipod. Tikka plastic stocks are actually very sturdy and surprisingly comfortable.

Whichever way you end up going, you are going have to save for upgrades. The choice for you is what you end up with once you've spent your money.
 
#76
JerkyFreak said:
At the end of the day, it's your money. Spend it as you wish.

Buy the Savage with the long barrel. According to most, you will also need a muzzle brake so you can spot hits. It is very frustrating to miss at long range and you cannot spot the impacts. Then the Bravo and whatever optic floats your boat. Scope mounts are quite important as well; UTG mounts should work and is priced right. And then a 20 MOA rail. Don't forget to budget for the chinesium Atlas-copy bipod. When you have money again, change the barrel. Don't forget the trigger.

Or, get the Tikka, the $10 trigger spring upgrade, a reasonable optic and good mounts. Shoot it off a X-bag while you save for the Bravo and reasonable bipod. If you have to have a bipod from the get-go, there are enough Harris-style bipods around that connect to the front sling stud at reasonable prices. This should set you up for 1000 yrd shooting while you save for the Bravo chassis and Atlas bipod. Tikka plastic stocks are actually very sturdy and surprisingly comfortable.

Whichever way you end up going, you are going have to save for upgrades. The choice for you is what you end up with once you've spent your money.
Click to expand...
Atlas bipods suck. I’ll take a Harris S-BRM with a pod lock over one any day of the week.
My preference is Accu-Tac.
 
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#77
I believe Brownells also has a 15% or 20% off deal for this stuff or part of this stuff....

www.brownells.com

MDT Field Stock Chassis for Howa 1500 SA Right Hand Black SKU: 430106626 | Brownells

Check out the MDT Field Stock Chassis for Howa 1500 SA Right Hand Black SKU: 430106626 available Online at Brownells Today and many more Rifle Stocks & Parts products are available in our Gun Parts Department.
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TALLEY WEATHERBY VANGUARD, HOWA 1500 PICATINNY BASE | Brownells

Check out the TALLEY available Online at Brownells Today and many more Scope Bases products are available in our Optics Department.
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HOWA M1500 Barreled Action 6.5 Creedmoor 24" BBL #6 Threaded Blue SKU: 100023947 | Brownells

Check out the HOWA M1500 Barreled Action 6.5 Creedmoor 24" BBL #6 Threaded Blue SKU: 100023947 available Online at Brownells Today and many more Rifle Receivers & Parts products are available in our Gun Parts Department.
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#82
Cody S said:
continuing this theme lol
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Continuing further, anyone that says a 22lr isn’t their most fun rifle to shoot is lying. If I didn’t hunt, and only had access to 200y, I’d be shooting ALOT of 22lr.

That said, my one savage is a Rascal 22lr. It’s super fun to shoot, but extraction and ejection are what I’ve learned is to be expected with a Savage. I keep a pocket knife or flat head screwdriver on hand. I know it’s time to clean the barrel when stuck cases outnumber extracted cases.
 
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#83
hlee said:
Continuing further, anyone that says a 22lr isn’t their most fun rifle to shoot is lying. If I didn’t hunt, and only had access to 200y, I’d be shooting ALOT of 22lr.

That said, my one savage is a Rascal 22lr. It’s super fun to shoot, but extraction and ejection are what I’ve learned is to be expected with a Savage. I keep a pocket knife or flat head screwdriver on hand. I know it’s time to clean the barrel when stuck cases outnumber extracted cases.
Click to expand...
this and the shit 10 round mags that are only 90% reliable are why I decided to build my own. other wise it's a sweet little rifle that balances and shoots respectably. savage centerfire are worth t he effort ime. savage rimfire, may perhaps be a different story, idk.
 
#84
hlee said:
Continuing further, anyone that says a 22lr isn’t their most fun rifle to shoot is lying. If I didn’t hunt, and only had access to 200y, I’d be shooting ALOT of 22lr.

That said, my one savage is a Rascal 22lr. It’s super fun to shoot, but extraction and ejection are what I’ve learned is to be expected with a Savage. I keep a pocket knife or flat head screwdriver on hand. I know it’s time to clean the barrel when stuck cases outnumber extracted cases.
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IMG_6482.jpeg
 
#86
#89
9245 said:
The elitism here is incredible.

It may come as a shock to you but not everyone makes $250,000 a year, drives a Mazerati and can afford to drop $15,000 on a custom rifle to squeeze out that last .01 MOA of accuracy. Nor can you buy your way out of a lack of skill, nor does that Mazerati make you a race car driver.

It might shock you that even a budget rifle can get sub MOA accuracy, and even occasionally sub half MOA, it is not necessary to drop the extra 10 grand. Not everyone is a competitive shooter, and not everyone needs to get a quarter MOA or better. Some people just want to challenge themselves or are just concerned with practical accuracy, not pretending like they are the world’s most elite super secret squirrel sniper or trying to win a world championship. Some people would be happy with sub MOA and ecstatic with .75 MOA and over the moon if they got better than .5 MOA because that is more than enough to do what they need. Trash the savages as much as you want but most reviews have them doing pretty well, easily sub MOA, I saw a couple even get .4 MOA.

Can you get a more accurate rifle? Of course, and you can also get nicer looking rifles and rifles with better fit and finish, but is that worth thousands of dollars more when all you plan to do is a few trips to the 1,000+ yard range in a year because it’s a 4 hour and 45 minute drive away? No. It emphatically is not. Even if I had the budget I wouldn’t drop that kind of money on a range toy, because that is all this is.

You keep your .01 MOA improvement, I will keep my $10,000, thankyou, have a nice day, you were most unhelpful.
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Well said, I have been lurking this website for quite some time, and have never posted before, that’s not normally my thing but, this pretty much sums up why , there are so many gun snobs and rude posters that think their Crap doesn’t stink and feel they must they have to degrade others that don’t have what they have or that they are the smartest person in the room, the majority of the people here have one thing in common….. their love of firearms, and something else most have the love of freedom… still their are those individuals that feel they are superior to others and that is not ok, that is tyrannical behavior…. So , that’s my 2 cents worth , I may not post again, and continue to lurk but for the most part I come here to learn and for the most part most members are very intelligent and I have learned from their experience and post but , I say this if you are here only to brag and shame people , you are the ones that should be ashamed!
 
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#91
Azkid said:
Well said, I have been lurking this website for quite some time, and have never posted before, that’s not normally my thing but, this pretty much sums up why , there are so many gun snobs and rude posters that think their Crap doesn’t stink and feel they must they have to degrade others that don’t have what they have or that they are the smartest person in the room, the majority of the people here have one thing in common….. their love of firearms, and something else most have the love of freedom… still their are those individuals that feel they are superior to others and that is not ok, that is tyrannical behavior…. So , that’s my 2 cents worth , I may not post again, and continue to lurk but for the most part I come here to learn and for the most part most members are very intelligent and I have learned from their experience and post but , I say this if you are here only to brag and shame people , you are the ones that should be ashamed!
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Perhaps it might be worth considering that many here might have done the whole poors thing decades ago.
Many also realized that they would have wanted to go give their previous selves a long hard talk about "expensive bargains"
Many folks wish they had the money they wasted on "cheap" stuff that seemed good at the time and wished they had just worked a bit harder, saved a bit more or cut back a bit elsewhere to be able to get something that was a bit more expensive but would have been a much better long term value.

Those folks might be on here trying to tell someone who is all proud about being cheap, that they aren't doing themselves any favours in the long run and offering solid advice on how to not regret your purchase a lot later and get into a class of items that will be good for your long term.
 
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#92
W54/XM-388 said:
Perhaps it might be worth considering that many here might have done the whole poors thing decades ago.
Many also realized that they would have wanted to go give their previous selves a long hard talk about "expensive bargains"
Many folks wish they had the money they wasted on "cheap" stuff that seemed good at the time and wished they had just worked a bit harder, saved a bit more or cut back a bit elsewhere to be able to get something that was a bit more expensive but would have been a much better long term value.

Those folks might be on here trying to tell someone who is all proud about being cheap, that they aren't doing themselves any favours in the long run and offering solid advice on how to not regret your purchase a lot later and get into a class of items that will be good for your long term.
Click to expand...
There are better ways to express and teach others without shaming or making fun of them or their equipment, i realize we are supposedly all Adults but most of us are here for the love of shooting and don’t come here to be made fun of at our expense to make someone else feel superior, so what … the guy wants to start with the savage or something else.
Some people need to learn from their mistakes and certainly there’s nothing wrong in trying to share ones mistakes and experiences to spare them frustration. I am saying there are other ways of doing it, without all the personal ranker and shitty memes , I have actually watched this forum for years and must admit I don’t know exactly how to maneuver it, because I feel intimidated by some of the Bully posters here. I am 67 years old and not computer savvy, have some military training and have been shooting since I was 6 , I love firearms and still shoot occasionally, even though I am now disabled, my equipment is old and not updated, but I still am able to ring steel at 1000 yards plus, with off the shelf 700,s and a POF 308, and yes I bought a cheap Bergara HMR in 6.5cm last year but yet to shoot it, I have reloaded longer than most here have been alive but, I have felt intimidated by all the Bully posters , but felt I should finally speak up. I say this if you all expect to grow as people, you need to put yourselves in others shoes occasionally, welcome new members, don’t try to blow them off by talking down to them or make fun of their equipment or even their thoughts, some come for advice others, to belong to something they love to do, there is enough Elitism in the world already…… just saying!
 
#93
My final piece of advice going forward, after you purchase the savage, don't ever ask anyone to play with their action or dry fire their rifle if they have any of the mentioned actions in this thread. If they offer, just say no. Once you feel the difference in the action and triggers, you will always notice it when you go back to your own. Stick to your own and be happy with your purchase. Ask me how I know lol
 
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