Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

#5,951
UKMan said:
Thank you!! I’ll have to check out the Armageddon gear. On your link, Being 55” long I am assuming you don’t travel with your RPR folded?
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Actually use two of those with my two 6GT's with MPA chassis. The Vudoo gets the Armageddon Gear (it cost more than the 6GT's). The RPR has an older Allen case, no longer in production. But you are correct, the only time I ever carried it with the stock folded was when I went to the range in Brenda's Miata. Folded, it fit behind the seat. The MPA I took with me rode in the Passenger area with a couple of shooting bags stuffed around it. A large cooler rode in the trunk and it had ammo boxes stuffed around it. You'd be surprised all that can fit in a Miata.
 
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#5,952
Dead Eye Dick said:
Actually use two of those with my two 6GT's with MPA chassis. The Vudoo gets the Armageddon Gear (it cost more than the 6GT's). The RPR has an older Allen case, no longer in production. But you are correct, the only time I ever carried it with the stock folded was when I went to the range in Brenda's Miata. Folded it fit behind the seat. The MPA I took with me rode in the Passenger area with a couple of shooting bags stuffed around it. A large cooler road in the trunk and it had ammo boxes stuffed around it. You'd be surprised all that can fit in a Miata.
Click to expand...

Lol! 😆 now that is an image! Thanks for your suggestions I’ll give them a look!
 
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#5,954
Custom shop 6.5CM likes American Gunner. Great for my wallet!
 

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#5,960
Picked up a new 6.5C not too long ago. Swapped out the factory grip for a Magpul K2+, put a longer HG and an M5Xi on it. Haven't shot it much yet, really only enough to get it zero'd.

My 5.56 continues to impress me. It's definitely on my do not sell list! I shot this group while a buddy looked over my shoulder with a spotter. After the 4th shot, I looked back at him, just knowing I was gonna pull the 5th. Nope!! :cool:

kstC2En.jpg
 
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#5,961
UKMan said:
What’s everyone using for a case for your RPR? Soft or Hard? Folded or not? Just transporting to the range from the house. I have a savior 36” double rifle that I use for rimfire, thinking about buying the same but in a larger size but want to see what is out there.
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I sold my RPR but I used to fold it and used a soft drag bag. I started with a hard case unfolded and it was too cumbersome swinging through doorways and in the car. Folded in drag bag much more convenient.
 
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#5,963
Didodadday said:
Any suggestions for an aftermarket stock?
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The Best is Target Tool. We are no longer using ours as we rebuilt the rifle to be as light as possible and musing a Magpul. They both work, but if you can afford the cost the Target Tool is the most solid, adjustable and best looking of the bunch

First picture is with factory barrel and Target Tool, Second picture is the Magpul, with a Proof barrel.

IMG_0707.jpeg
IMG_1399.jpeg


As always, I have NDIH.

I guess I’ve said it a dozen times. I wish Ruger would license the Target Tool and include it on their custom model. A real improvement

 
#5,964
Dead Eye Dick said:
The Best is Target Tool. We are no longer using ours as we rebuilt the rifle to be as light as possible and musing a Magpul. They both work, but if you can afford the cost the Target Tool is the most solid, adjustable and best looking of the bunch

First picture is with factory barrel and Target Tool, Second picture is the Magpul, with a Proof barrel.

View attachment 8468310View attachment 8468312

As always, I have NDIH.

I guess I’ve said it a dozen times. I wish Ruger would license the Target Tool and include it on their custom model. A real improvement

Click to expand...
Thanks. I sent an email to Target Tool. They have the Black in stock but no recoil pad. I definitely like the TT.
 
#5,967
Dead Eye Dick said:
The Best is Target Tool. We are no longer using ours as we rebuilt the rifle to be as light as possible and musing a Magpul. They both work, but if you can afford the cost the Target Tool is the most solid, adjustable and best looking of the bunch

First picture is with factory barrel and Target Tool, Second picture is the Magpul, with a Proof barrel.

View attachment 8468310View attachment 8468312

As always, I have NDIH.

I guess I’ve said it a dozen times. I wish Ruger would license the Target Tool and include it on their custom model. A real improvement

Click to expand...
Any interest in selling the TT?
 
#5,970
MechanicGino said:
If you like, please check out JARD trigger. I use my setup and get it factory single stage adjusted 8oz. Super trigger...
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It appears to be a nice trigger. But really set on getting a TriggerTech, the trigger most popular by top competitive shooters for a good reason, as it's supposed to come out publicly with a trigger for the RPR soon. Ruger's custom rifles on their website already shows that they come with a TriggerTech trigger.

 
#5,973
4x4junk said:
I'm considering a RPR in .308. I'm seeing 2nd gens for $900-950 (one unfired) and new 3rd gens for $1350. How much would you be willing to pay to get a 3rd gen?
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In 2017, I purchased a 2nd generation in 6.5 Creedmoor for $1340.00. It was the very first one in the wild that I had seen in 6.5. A few days later another shop had one for the full list price of 1575 or so.

This is 2024, it’s been 7 years since my purchase and we’ve had almost four years of a biden inflationary economy, and you’ve seen an RPR for $1350 and you have to ask?

Why purchase someone else’s problems. Unless you know the rifle personally (as in a friend owned it and you were able to shoot it, a lot, Get the new.

But am curious, why .308?
 
#5,975
Dead Eye Dick said:
In 2017, I purchased a 2nd generation in 6.5 Creedmoor for $1340.00. It was the very first one in the wild that I had seen in 6.5. A few days later another shop had one for the full list price of 1575 or so.

This is 2024, it’s been 7 years since my purchase and we’ve had almost four years of a biden inflationary economy, and you’ve seen an RPR for $1350 and you have to ask?

Why purchase someone else’s problems. Unless you know the rifle personally (as in a friend owned it and you were able to shoot it, a lot, Get the new.

But am curious, why .308?
Click to expand...
One of the gen2s is unfired, so I guess my question are the gen 3 improvements worth $400 or 30%. .380 because the range I go to is 700 yds max and I have a lot of brass. I won't be competing at anything. Tell me if I'm wrong.
 
#5,976
4x4junk said:
I'm considering a RPR in .308. I'm seeing 2nd gens for $900-950 (one unfired) and new 3rd gens for $1350. How much would you be willing to pay to get a 3rd gen?
Click to expand...
I have a Gen2 and a Gen3. The one thing that bothered me most about the Gen2 was the fabrication quality of the bolt. It was kind of rough and had a zipper like sound when opening and closing the breach. It has worn now with 1000's of rounds fired and doesn't do that any longer. This didn't effect performance. . . just an annoying sound.

You'll have to decide if the better handguard on the Gen3, the improved bolt construction and the new cocking piece is worth the extra $400 to you. Though there can be differences in performance from any two identical guns, other than that, there basically no difference in performance.
 
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#5,979
I have a Gen 1 in 6.5 Creedmoor, and have never had any issues with it (except when I switched to small primer brass and had to use CCI450s for the harder cup to control primer flow around the firing pin...my issue for not using large primers and not necessarily the guns shortcoming).
Each subsequent generation had small incremental improvements over the original design. Most were minor quality of life changes (ie keymod handguard >> M-lok) but nothing earth-shattering (imo).
If money is no object, get the Gen-3, if price makes a difference, I don't see how you can go wrong with a Gen-2. You will probably end up changing things to make the rifle your own anyways, and the money you saved will make a good start on that...or you could shoot it bone-stock until the day you die, and do so happy with your purchase...
 
#5,980
I bought a Gen 2 RPR in 308 the end of 2016. I replaced the fore end with the Seekins RPR fore end (one with the flat bottom and replaced the bolt shroud (warranty). Other than that its original except for Tract optic, ARCA rail and a bipod. Just love shooting that rifle!
 
#5,982
I have been reading in the Hide about changing calibers and barrels on the RPR. I just want to confirm my idea. I have a 6 creedmoor ina RPR.. can I change the barrel to either a 6 br or Dasher and not worry about the Bolt because the bolt head is the same as the creedmoor?Any else to be concerned with the change.
 
#5,983
Ridgerunner60 said:
I have been reading in the Hide about changing calibers and barrels on the RPR. I just want to confirm my idea. I have a 6 creedmoor ina RPR.. can I change the barrel to either a 6 br or Dasher and not worry about the Bolt because the bolt head is the same as the creedmoor?Any else to be concerned with the change.
Click to expand...
I’ll be listening on this one

I personally do but think so mid check normal headspace go, no go, field gauges etc

maybe check on the firing pin length/ exposure to the case primer?

I suppose…. Have fun getting the old/ original barrel off?
 
#5,984
Receive a First Gen RPR (.308cal) as a gift. Trying to zero this rifle in, I like to learn if there was an issue or a defect was RPR, having difficulty 10-15 rounds in the barrel is very hot. Was there a recall I’m just trying to check all the boxes, using Hornady 168 grain Match, zero in 100 yards. Possible thermal shift as the shots shifts in the same direction in 1 inch increment. Please share your knowledge.
 
#5,985
axis007 said:
Receive a First Gen RPR (.308cal) as a gift. Trying to zero this rifle in, I like to learn if there was an issue or a defect was RPR, having difficulty 10-15 rounds in the barrel is very hot. Was there a recall I’m just trying to check all the boxes, using Hornady 168 grain Match, zero in 100 yards. Possible thermal shift as the shots shifts in the same direction in 1 inch increment. Please share your knowledge.
Click to expand...
Need more detail as to how the barrel is getting "very hot"??? Ambient air temperatures this was shot in? Rate of fire?

I've got a .308 RPR that I've shot a lot here in Arizona and know how easy it can be to heat up a barrel in the summer. I put a stick on thermal strip just in front of the chamber that tells me how hot the barrel is getting. When I see the temp get to 122°F I stop and cool the barrel down with a barrel cooler to speed up the cooling process. I stop at this temperature primarily to lengthen barrel life, but it also helps with keeping my groups small. When I've gone to or over 130°F, I do see shifts in the POI's.

Thermal strip.jpg
 
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#5,986
axis007 said:
Receive a First Gen RPR (.308cal) as a gift. Trying to zero this rifle in, I like to learn if there was an issue or a defect was RPR, having difficulty 10-15 rounds in the barrel is very hot. Was there a recall I’m just trying to check all the boxes, using Hornady 168 grain Match, zero in 100 yards. Possible thermal shift as the shots shifts in the same direction in 1 inch increment. Please share your knowledge.
Click to expand...
Barrels def heat up

What brand of ammo and what is the range?

Bore scope the barrel

See how much carbon and copper build up is going on

Also
Too much to unload as per group size and or etc

User error often is more like y than a rifle these days

But hard to say

Also
168 grain is ok
But not always most accurate
 
#5,987
Do any of your folding stocks have just the slightest bit of movement when fully opened and locked in? I’m not talking much just a VERY small amount of wiggle back and forth. Doesn’t bother my shooting but couldn’t find anything online and wanted to see if it was a common thing with folding stocks.
 
#5,988
UKMan said:
Do any of your folding stocks have just the slightest bit of movement when fully opened and locked in? I’m not talking much just a VERY small amount of wiggle back and forth. Doesn’t bother my shooting but couldn’t find anything online and wanted to see if it was a common thing with folding stocks.
Click to expand...
Ours seems to be looser and looser. When we were running the Target Tool, lockup of the folding stock was rock solid. Went back to the stock mount, and its wiggle city. Now, maybe we can get Target Tool to make a light weight butt stock in FDE. It would be perfect for our carbon fiber barreled lightweight.
 
#5,989
UKMan said:
Do any of your folding stocks have just the slightest bit of movement when fully opened and locked in? I’m not talking much just a VERY small amount of wiggle back and forth. Doesn’t bother my shooting but couldn’t find anything online and wanted to see if it was a common thing with folding stocks.
Click to expand...
Mine are both rock solid.
 
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#5,994
Has anyone installed the Firearms Unknown handguard? Link to product

I'm scratching my head how this is supposed to attach. I actually have three RPRs (for pd shooting) and have installed the MI & Spikes Tactical handguards no problems. Every person I talked to at the company has been clueless.

This one has a threaded insert installed in the handguard. It threads on the barrel nut, but it leaves a big gap, and doesn't tighten down enough to prevent movement. It almost seems like there should be a secondary nut that would connect handguard to barrrel nut, but apparently there is not. I tried with both the stock ruger barrel nut, and the PVA since I have both. The PVA leaves an even larger gap. I'm replacing the factory Gen 2 Samson handguard

What am I missing here? 2 pics:
1) Rifle with ruger barrel nut installed + handguard pre installation.
2) Rifle with handguard installed showing gap. This was as far as it would thread down.

ruger 1.jpg


ruger 2.jpg
 
#5,995
Mike402 said:
Has anyone installed the Firearms Unknown handguard? Link to product

I'm scratching my head how this is supposed to attach. I actually have three RPRs (for pd shooting) and have installed the MI & Spikes Tactical handguards no problems. Every person I talked to at the company has been clueless.

This one has a threaded insert installed in the handguard. It threads on the barrel nut, but it leaves a big gap, and doesn't tighten down enough to prevent movement. It almost seems like there should be a secondary nut that would connect handguard to barrrel nut, but apparently there is not. I tried with both the stock ruger barrel nut, and the PVA since I have both. The PVA leaves an even larger gap. I'm replacing the factory Gen 2 Samson handguard

What am I missing here? 2 pics:
1) Rifle with ruger barrel nut installed + handguard pre installation.
2) Rifle with handguard installed showing gap. This was as far as it would thread down.

View attachment 8522310

View attachment 8522311
Click to expand...
OK. My question is: Is that the barrel nut that cam with the handguard? Doesn't seem correct. It works but I agree that the gap doesn't seem right. You're not going to run a mount(s) forward of the gap anyway, but.....
 
#5,996
That is what a regular AR handguard looks like installed on the RPR.

I use a White Oak AR Match handguard, slotted on the bottom for a handstop, for prone shooting. It has the same gap. But, it is just for an AR, not the RPR. The gap doesn't bother me for that application.

Usually a handguard marketed for the RPR covers the gap.

It really won't slide back over the nut?

Their marketing pictures on their site don't show the gap. Did they send the wrong one?
 
#5,997
anon said:
That is what a regular AR handguard looks like installed on the RPR.

I use a White Oak AR Match handguard, slotted on the bottom for a handstop, for prone shooting. It has the same gap. But, it is just for an AR, not the RPR. The gap doesn't bother me for that application.

Usually a handguard marketed for the RPR covers the gap.
Click to expand...
OK. No argument here. I put a Seekins handguard (for RPR) on mine long ago so am long out of the loop.

This shouldn't pose a problem for you tho
 
#5,998
Lazyfaire said:
OK. My question is: Is that the barrel nut that cam with the handguard? Doesn't seem correct. It works but I agree that the gap doesn't seem right. You're not going to run a mount(s) forward of the gap anyway, but.....
Click to expand...
No that's the stock ruger barrel nut. Something is definitely off, was wondering maybe if you are supposed to use a first gen handguard nut or something like that.
 
#5,999
anon said:
That is what a regular AR handguard looks like installed on the RPR.

I use a White Oak AR Match handguard, slotted on the bottom for a handstop, for prone shooting. It has the same gap. But, it is just for an AR, not the RPR. The gap doesn't bother me for that application.

Usually a handguard marketed for the RPR covers the gap.

It really won't slide back over the nut?

Their marketing pictures on their site don't show the gap. Did they send the wrong one?
Click to expand...
No it won't slide over the nut. There is a threaded insert in the handguard itself that appears to not be removable. That insert threads onto the barrel nut when installed, and that is as far as it screws down. You are correct, those pictures don't show a gap. I couldn't find a single person at that company who could help, most didn't even know they sell that product. That was after calling three different locations.

Was hoping I could luck out and find someone on here that has made it work and how they attached it.
 
#6,000
Mike402 said:
No that's the stock ruger barrel nut. Something is definitely off, was wondering maybe if you are supposed to use a first gen handguard nut or something like that.
Click to expand...
A barrel nut usually fits to the handguard. That said I looked at the WOA site and it had a standard A2 barrel nut which is what yours appears to be. So I will back up and let others comment on this.

Last comment it appears that the correct barrel nut will have a smooth outer that will slide into the HG, and a inner threaded end (w/out the ribbed edge).
 
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