OK last last comment, are you absolutely sure that that 'threaded part inside the HG ' isn't just stuck in there? Usually that is where makers stick their compatible barrel nuts. Do not think I have ever seen a HG with a threaded inner, but I'm usually only half right most of the time!
Will the inside diameter of the handguard go over the Ruger barrel nut?
If not, it is not the handguard shown on their website.
If it is the correct handguard, my suggestion is that the handguard's nut is stuck and getting it loose will allow the handguard to slide back over the nut before tightening the two screws on the bottom.
If not, it is not the handguard shown on their website.
If it is the correct handguard, my suggestion is that the handguard's nut is stuck and getting it loose will allow the handguard to slide back over the nut before tightening the two screws on the bottom.
Maybe it needs opened up at the slit for the screws a little then slipped on or maybe it is the wrong one? like mentioned above.
Or turn it around and use some gorilla glue and call it good!
Or turn it around and use some gorilla glue and call it good!
Ok this was it! You are right in this case so I think your average went up from half of the time
Thank you for pushing me in that direction. I thought it should have a separate nut to attach to the barrel nut, but it wouldn't budge originally. I didn't want to mar it up by using tools. After reading your comment, I went back in from the opposite side of the handguard and drove it out with a plastic coated shotgun cleaning rod. Had to pound it pretty hard, but it came out.I was able to torque the now separated handguard nut to the barrel nut. However with the factory ruger barrel nut it still had the gap as shown in my previous picture. I replaced with the PVA nut, and now its completely flush.
It basically stays on there via compression nuts on the bottom, but its an extremely tight fit getting it on, so hopefully it should be stable.
I can now say this is a decent lower cost handguard option for the RPR. Not nearly as nice as the old Midwest Industries that they don't sell anymore, but I'm happy with it. Hopefully this will help anyone else who purchases this, as there are zero instructions with the unit, and no tech support to help at the company (at least with this product)
Thanks for all the responses and help! Picture:
I'm hoping someone can give me an idea to fix my problem. I have a RPR in 308 win. and have recently purchased 500 rounds of plastic training ammo that the german military uses for practice. It's NATO 7.62 x 51, runs a 10 grain plastic projectile at around 4500 fps, and has a plastic case except for the very rear of the cartridge where the rim and primer are which is brass. It's pretty cool stuff with a max effective range of 100-150 yards. I think it's going to work great on rodents. The problem is that the fired casing won't extract, as in the extractor won't grab the rim. The fired casing is loose in the chamber and would probably fall out if the bolt was open and a guy hit the stock with his palm, of course I don't want to do that nor do I want to run a cleaning rod backwards down the barrel after every shot. I measured the rim of the cartridge and it's about 10 thousands smaller than 308 win. Any thoughts ???
Just ordered a 6.5 red rpr from online dealer in Al. Price was$1034 new. Couldn't pass it up. I plan to start with 140grain to start. Anything else I should worry with?
Bench shooting? Optic, bipod. maybe an Arca rail for underneath and a chronograph (Garmin Pro 1 is the current top of line). Use quality ammo until you figure out what your rifle likes to eat.
That is a great price you paid. I paid $1125 for a 308 RPR 8 or 9 years ago (in a tax free state).
Any suggestions for cleaning rod bore guides for the RPR? Not many available from what Ive seen lately..Mine isa..308
I use the Dewey bore guide, as I like the o-ring seal that keeps the guide in place and keeping the rest of the chamber free of any solvents being used.
DEWEY ADJUSTABLE ROD GUIDES | Brownells
Check out the DEWEY available Online at Brownells Today and many more Gun Bore Guides products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.
www.brownells.com
I rebarreled my rpr that I use across the course and I do not have the flange thats on the original on the muzzle end of the threads instead I thread about 2 inches long so I can cut off an inch when the barrel wears and rechamber then usa an ar handguard with its own nut which screws on the ruger barrel nut with some thin shims to clock it. I have done 5 or 6 barrels this way including my hunting rpr in 30-284
Buddy took his 6.5C out last weekend. We had zero’d at 100 from last trip. Walked it out on steel to 1200 yrds. He had never shot past 400 yards before. Good backstops for splash, and we got all those come ups with about a box of ammo. Nice consistency, easily a sub MOA gun at 400m, 147g Hornady ammo.
I get mine from Possum Hollow. They're not listed many places, so I just call. They're cheap, less than $40 delivered, and easier to use than the universal ones.
Went with a McJ Tools 308 Guide from Canada
I added a short section of steel tube to support the guide rod inside the Ruger receiver. $40, Midway or Brownells, cant recall.
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My custom shop RPR has some slop in the folding stock when it is locked in place. Doesn't affect shooting as I can preload it into the rear bag but for the money I would assume it should lock up tight and reading other past posts there should be no slop. Planning on calling Ruger but by chance has anyone gotten Ruger to send out parts for this to avoid sending in the entire rifle? wondering if they would send a new hinge out as this would be an easy solution/fix at home but wanted to check on here first.
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Do you have the little rubber bumper for the left side of your receiver to soften the blow of your folder?
I do not, I installed a soft piece of material on the folder to do the same thing. Called Ruger and they are going to send the replacement parts to fix the slop. Great service as always
Ruger RPR stock redesign. Much better looking aesthetically and appears to be less flimsy.
https://shopruger.com/Ruger-Precision-Rifle-Buttstock-Assembly/productinfo/90773/
https://shopruger.s3.amazonaws.com/RPR_Buttstock-Install.pdf
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I'm anxious to see if it's heavier than the current one. Steep upgrade price but I may snag one.
According to their website it will fit all previous Generations and weighs 1.8 lbs. Price=$349
I had the original Timney and I had it set around 10 oz, after 3 yras I sent it in for repair then I got new version for replacement. It has never been the same since. I can not get it down to 10 or so OZ. I am tired of dealing with them.
I need to try another brand.
Hey all, Mac here...Long time lurker, first time poster...
This is my Ruger .338, all the important parts are still stock.
Vortex Viper 5-25 (pulled off my 6.5, on my future list for this machine is a NF ATACR 7-35),
secured w/ an ARC M-Brace uni-mount (came with a side-mounted level, but my eye couldn't focus that close so I pulled it),
high rise butt plate (2" taller, better for prone position),
Adjustable bag rider (absolutely necessary IMHO),
Bipod EXT (again, absolutely necessary for my purposes. Pulled it off my 6.5, so it's a bit undersized for the .338...one of these days, I'll drop a grand and get the magnum version. For now, I keep it minimally extended to prevent flex during firing),
Ceramic ball level on my scope (and another level on the Bipod EXT - I use them both to confirm each other),
No name bipod that I snagged off a prize table for getting some hits at an ELR event (was looking for something to get my front end lower than my Accu-Tac and this things gets down to about 5" above the skis), [The Accu-Tac failed on me when the legs were extended out in front in the 45 deg position, I wanted something rock solid with the load carrying straight down]
AND most importantly for my 2000+ yd shots, a TacomHQ Bravo Tarac, which gives me an additional 30.2 MIL (the Viper maxes out at ~2100 yd...and at those distances, it's too hard for me to see the splash when I'm holding 5-10 MIL high).
I don't have any problem using the stock buttstock (other than the parts I replaced). Once I got the proper LOP and cheek rise, I zip-tied an Allen cheekpad around it (after cutting off the stupid zipper bag) and haven't adjusted it since.
My bolt had that zipper sound as well, didn't impact performance at all. After 650 rounds (and dry fires), it lapped itself and runs smooth and clean.
I'm working to get as good as I can with the machines I've got. Unless I'm dealing with 15-20 mph winds, I can regularly get impacts out to a mile. Beyond that is where my learning curve gets steep - I can get hits out to 2500, just with MUCH less regularity.
-Mac
This is my Ruger .338, all the important parts are still stock.
Vortex Viper 5-25 (pulled off my 6.5, on my future list for this machine is a NF ATACR 7-35),
secured w/ an ARC M-Brace uni-mount (came with a side-mounted level, but my eye couldn't focus that close so I pulled it),
high rise butt plate (2" taller, better for prone position),
Adjustable bag rider (absolutely necessary IMHO),
Bipod EXT (again, absolutely necessary for my purposes. Pulled it off my 6.5, so it's a bit undersized for the .338...one of these days, I'll drop a grand and get the magnum version. For now, I keep it minimally extended to prevent flex during firing),
Ceramic ball level on my scope (and another level on the Bipod EXT - I use them both to confirm each other),
No name bipod that I snagged off a prize table for getting some hits at an ELR event (was looking for something to get my front end lower than my Accu-Tac and this things gets down to about 5" above the skis), [The Accu-Tac failed on me when the legs were extended out in front in the 45 deg position, I wanted something rock solid with the load carrying straight down]
AND most importantly for my 2000+ yd shots, a TacomHQ Bravo Tarac, which gives me an additional 30.2 MIL (the Viper maxes out at ~2100 yd...and at those distances, it's too hard for me to see the splash when I'm holding 5-10 MIL high).
I don't have any problem using the stock buttstock (other than the parts I replaced). Once I got the proper LOP and cheek rise, I zip-tied an Allen cheekpad around it (after cutting off the stupid zipper bag) and haven't adjusted it since.
My bolt had that zipper sound as well, didn't impact performance at all. After 650 rounds (and dry fires), it lapped itself and runs smooth and clean.
I'm working to get as good as I can with the machines I've got. Unless I'm dealing with 15-20 mph winds, I can regularly get impacts out to a mile. Beyond that is where my learning curve gets steep - I can get hits out to 2500, just with MUCH less regularity.
-Mac
I haven't seen anything. Has trigger tech announced anything with their RPR triggers? I was hoping this year at SHOT they would finally commit.
Supposedly 1st half of this year for RPR trigger along with Glock and Tikka triggers.
They've been saying that for 4 years now but maybe this is finally it. I guess I won't buy the Timney on sale at sportsmans and hold off just a little bit longer..
Went to the range today to shoot my .308 and the magazine would not release. Had to take the magazine apart while still in the rifle and saw the mechanism on the side of the magazine was not moving when the lever is pressed. Anyone had this happen and what could be wrong?
That sounds like an original short action RPR using the PMag pattern not the AICS pattern.
The gun will use both.
The mag release travels farther to release the AR style mag than it does to release an AICS type mag. That is why I chose to not use the AICS pattern Bob Sled, but rather the AR style Bob Sled, when shooting prone matches. Seemed like it would be harder to accidentally drop the sled while shooting a match in a coat with a sling. I have, on occasion, found that the AR style Bob Sled was hard to release. I have a few PMags for the rifle but rarely use them, and have not had problems with those.
Maybe try an AICS pattern PMag or equivalent for easier release.
The gun will use both.
The mag release travels farther to release the AR style mag than it does to release an AICS type mag. That is why I chose to not use the AICS pattern Bob Sled, but rather the AR style Bob Sled, when shooting prone matches. Seemed like it would be harder to accidentally drop the sled while shooting a match in a coat with a sling. I have, on occasion, found that the AR style Bob Sled was hard to release. I have a few PMags for the rifle but rarely use them, and have not had problems with those.
Maybe try an AICS pattern PMag or equivalent for easier release.
It isn't the magazine. After closer inspection I see the mag release lever is supposed to press against the catch mechanism inside the mag well. The lever is not making contact with the release catch and will not press it to the rear. Almost like some piece broke off, but the parts look clean.
Hey all! New member here, newbie to anything further than 500yds; my goal is to hit pie-plates at 1000yds. After a lot of research for an entry-level long range rifle without breaking the bank, I found the RPR; purchased a Gen-2 .308 from an estate sale for $999.00, hoping I didn't make a mistake. From forums and research, I immediately upgraded the bolt shroud and am waiting on a monopod. Using the FFP Strike Eagle 5x25. I also installed my Harvester EVO suppressor.
I've seen mixed reviews on accuracy impact with suppressors, and my goal is to take out as many modifiable variables as possible before I start building habits.
My question: do any of you have experience with using this suppressor on the RPR, and how did it effect your grouping/bullet performance?
Any related or unrelated advice for a beginner is welcome. Thank you!!
I've seen mixed reviews on accuracy impact with suppressors, and my goal is to take out as many modifiable variables as possible before I start building habits.
My question: do any of you have experience with using this suppressor on the RPR, and how did it effect your grouping/bullet performance?
Any related or unrelated advice for a beginner is welcome. Thank you!!
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I have a Griffen Bushwacker 36 on my RPR 6.5CM and see no difference at all in groups
I don’t use a suppressor, so I don’t have much cred, but from what has been posted here over the years is that suppressors have little affect on accuracy, but will change the point of impact.
Buy yourself a couple boxes of the ammo you intend to use and go out and kill some cardboard suppressed and not suppressed. Easiest way to know for sure. And, tell us what you find.
Good to know, thank you! I will test it out as you describe and I'll get back to you.
