This barrel can not fit anything but an RPR. And no other drop in, unless made exactly like this, will work.
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My thought. When the RPR was introduced in 2015, it was state of the art in production PRS rifles. And it took off the way, I am not even sure Ruger thought it might. Fueled with then decade old but newly discovered 6.5 Creedmoor, it was a rifle in a class all by itself. They only way to duplicate it was go custom.
Time has passed. Custom is now nearly as inexpensive as a an RPR. The market is flooded with RPR copies. The 6.5 is not the wonder cartridge it once was. And those jealous of the both the RPR and 6.5’s success over their favorite (and arguably sometimes better sometimes not so better) cartridge and custom rifle, have gone out of their way to make their voices heard. The only real issue with the RPR is its integral receiver. But the rifle was built to make changes to it. Many featured here only have that receiver left.
Point, The last time I shot my RPR with its original barrel with approximately 2200 rounds through it (11-2023), It put solid center hits on silhouette’s at 300, 400 and 500 yards. Probably could have taken it out to the furthest targets available (840 yards) but I did not have the ammo. So, I called it good. Rifle was already 6 years old,
There is nothing wrong with a standard RPR. Most shoot very good, some are exceptional. Mine still holds my record fro a three hundred yard group. (With its original barrel) though my MPA when it was a 6.5 was right behind.
That said, my MPA in 6.5 Creedmoor was the most accurate rifle I have ever owned, frankly ever touched. The difference in group sizes between the RPR and the MPA had to be carefully measured with a micrometer.. Pretty darned good for a rifle that was half the cost and pounds lighter.
Agreed. I have an original RPR (.308) nearing 3800 rounds and it plinks all day from 300,500,600,640,1000,1280 yards etc
It does well with 175,185,210,230 smk
I have no complaints
I'm picking up an RPR in 300PRC tomorrow. I plan to single feed some rounds and wonder what is the maximum COAL that will still eject as an unfired round. Also, for single feeding, will these rifles feed a round dropped onto an empty magazine or will I need a sled?
Enjoy your rifle. From what I can see 300 PRC is as follows long action is normally per mag 3.4 inch long and the 300 prc is SAAMI standard 3.7 in at least
It sounds like with 30 Norma being the standard
There is ample throat room ( if reloading )
Looks like other than factory you’ll have two choices for brass
Hornady and ADG
My RUGER RPR allows with p mags sled rides….. but for sled rides with mags ( pro mag and .308 ) are a little persnickety
But I really do prefer an actual bob sled as it allow me to reload out of saami spec and I can get heavier longer bullets to play well
Good luck
Sorry I can t help more
It sounds like with 30 Norma being the standard
There is ample throat room ( if reloading )
Looks like other than factory you’ll have two choices for brass
Hornady and ADG
My RUGER RPR allows with p mags sled rides….. but for sled rides with mags ( pro mag and .308 ) are a little persnickety
But I really do prefer an actual bob sled as it allow me to reload out of saami spec and I can get heavier longer bullets to play well
Good luck
Sorry I can t help more
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Is it used? If so, then it depends on the condition of the barrel in particular. I'd want to know how many rounds have been fired and I'd want to take a close look at the throat and bore with a bore scope. Also, you might want to inspect the trigger assembly to what condition it's in.
If it's essentially new (new condition), you'll want to verify that. And if so, that's a great price.
Either way, if you want to change anything, the first I'd do is the barrel. Like, I'd get either an top of the line Krieger barrel or something a little cheaper like what Preferred Barrel Blanks provides.
Guy local to me bought it and mostly sat in the safe. Looks like it has 100 shots max through it
I added a bubble level/ 30 moa rail
Anarchy outdoors
I also added a more easily accessible mag release button
Other than that
My gen1 rpr is 4537 rounds in and doing ok (.308)
Just to give you some perspective, back in 2016 -2017, a new Gen1 could be had for ~$1,100. I picked up my Gen 2 in 2017 for that price (see avatar pic) though MSRP was around $1700, if I recall correctly.
Though you might find some issues with the bolt and the handguard on the Gen 1, $700 is still a really good deal. IMHO
You could ask 10 people and get 10 different answers, but 10 years ago I bought a new Gen 1 in 308 for $1225 out the door. I have since changed out the barrel for a Ruger 6.5 CM ( for more distance), replaced the handguard for a Seekins RPR flat-bottomed M-Lok, put on an Arca Rail for the bi-pod, and upgraded to a Timney RPR trigger, and lastly dropped a fluted bolt into it. This is a great rifle for what it is. Wouldn't want to carry it over hill and dale but its a dead nuts bench shooter.
Now I see them for sale around $1600, but after 10 years(?) i think that is a normal % rise. Are there better rifles or calibers? Sure, but barrel changes are simple and there are many options from suppliers. Have lots of others i would sell, but not this one.
Edit- this is the rattlecan job done on my RPR. Need to make new full rifle pics
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Tried this with some serious force. Wouldn’t budge. Trying to avoid going to the gunsmith as I know he is going to say “did you hit it with your purse”..and then proceed to get it loose lol Going to give it another round and then try the smith if no luck. The hulk must work at Ruger.
Be sure to screw just the locknut in the direction as though you're screwing it onto the muzzle. And, if you haven't tried already, a little WD-40 will help.
I was turning it in the direction as indicated in the manual to loosen it but what you are saying is (standing to the side of the gun..non bolt side..barrel going to the left). I should be turning the locknut towards me and the screwdriver in the ports the other way to break it free?
Have not tried WD-40 yet. Recommend just applying around the locknut?
I used a long heavy screw driver
And levered it off
Maybe try some lube/ pb blaster? Fill the barrel with cloth first
Carbon locked on likely
Yes but pb blaster may be better. Counter clockwise look at the barrel to the butt stock
Gotcha
Mine came off for suppressor use ok but yeah had to really hold the sucker down
I don’t think you’ll break it
So rail on the thing
Just don’t hurt the threads when putting it back on. I’m sorry I am not more helpful
In trying to be clear, when facing the muzzle (gun pointed towards you) you want to turn the nut clockwise and hold the break (or turn it opposite; counter clockwise). I use a phillips head screwdriver run through two ports to hold the break.
Apply WD-40 around the nut on both sides (especially between the nut and the break).
Too bad.
It's sure not supposed to be that hard.I did have a similar issue when swapping my Gen2 factory barrel out and thought I might be turning it the wrong way. The lock ring was really tight and I couldn't get it to budge. I finally took a 4 lb rubber mallet to the wrench and it popped loose the very first blow (it wasn't a mild blow either
).Too bad.
I did have a similar issue when swapping my Gen2 factory barrel out and thought I might be turning it the wrong way. The lock ring was really tight and I couldn't get it to budge. I finally took a 4 lb rubber mallet to the wrench and it popped loose the very first blow (it wasn't a mild blow either
I’ve heard the stories about people changing the RPR barrels and having to apply some serious torque. Definitely going to watch him do it, he is top notch so if he struggles I won’t feel so bad lol
Related to this discussion. We found evidence of red lock tite between the barrel nut and action. I am somewhat surprised the gunsmith who was finally able to remove the barrel was able to do so without wrapping the action. He was a good man as we had totally given up. Installing the new barrel, whether it be me, our son, or someone else later down the line, it won’t take a three foot pry bar with a four foot iron cheater pipe to get it off. We used plenty of good quality anit-seize and torqued it to the exact barrel makers specs, and not one-inch pound more.
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Red Loctite???!!
Crimony, there really no good reason to use anything like red or blue Loctite. I do use a Loctite product on my barrel threads . . . C5-A Copper Anti-Seize compound. It protects against rust and keep things tight, but easy enough to remove the barrels.Agree ^^^^^ Use the same stuff on my barrel threading, after a good brushing of my threads. And blue Loctite on optic mounts and screw threads. Have never had an issue removing a barrel that I mounted/remounted.Red Loctite???!!
I am guessing that someone other than the factory remounted that barrel. I get red Loctite and I just throw it out. Rockset too. Don't want to have to torch my builds. Glad you got it all repaired.
Almost embarrassed to mention how little time it took the gunsmith to get it off. Did exactly what I was doing at home. He said be quick,swift and have 20 years experience lol always a good trip to the shop!
You can always ask questions in gun forums. There are many many people who are willing to help work through problems. Some will throw you shade but the vast majority are willing to help. That's how you learn.
Does anyone know if Ruger made the firing pin hole smaller on the custom shop, vs the standard RPR?
I’m not sure about that…. I’m would assume no. But call ruger 336-949-5200
What’s a simple, straight to the point cleaning procedure for cleaning an RPR. My 6.5CM custom shop is new to me and want to make sure I have material to clean it properly. Am used to Glocks and 10/22s which don’t require much attention.
I shoot completely suppressed if that matters.
I shoot completely suppressed if that matters.
Bore scope to see of it is carbon or copper or both build up
Protect trigger from solvents and take bolt out ( lube bolt )
I use carbon cleaner with brass/ nylon brush
Then a patch cleaning until not dirty
Then repeat brushes
Repeat patches until clean
If copper
Bore paste and let sit according to directions
Then clean !! Don’t leave bore paste in barrel !!
Then I usually run the bore clean with hoppes9 and patch clean and expect a few fouling shots to regain zero and dope
Hope this helps
Get the following:
- Rifle vice/mount to hold the rifle for cleaning
- A couple small plastic squeeze bottles to apply cleaning fluids
- A bottle of Wipe-Out and Wipe-Out Accelerator
- Tube of OSSO bore cleaner (for use with bronze brush on carbon ring only)
- Bottle of Blitz Bore Cleaner
- Grease for the lugs and the cocking pieces under the shroud
- A good bore guide
After a shooting session, run a couple patches of Wipe-Out through the bore while residue in the bore is still warm and soft. For a light cleaning, you might just then run a bore brush though the bore a couple times, then a patch to remove the loosened residue. . . this before you head home.
For a good cleaning:
- Remove suppressor and clean the crown, either with Wipe-Out or better yet, with CLR on a patch.
- Remove bolt and clean around ejector and bolt lugs. Before reinstalling bolt, be sure to grease the lugs lightly and do this in the friction area (like the cocking piece are for the firing pin) inside the bolt shroud.
- Insert bore guide
- Run a soaked patch of Wipe-Out Accelerator down the bore (one way), then a soaked patach of Wipe-Out and let it sit for an hour or two.
- Run a dry patch through
- Run several strokes of a bronze bore brush with some Flitz Bore Cleaner on it.
- Run another wet patch, followed with a dry patches until patches look clean
- When going after the carbon ring: run a bronze brush with OSSO only in the throat area, then clean with patches.
I like to leave a very light coating of Wipe-Out on the crown and in the bore as that tends to make the next cleaning easier.
To clean your suppressor, you might try using a warm concentrated solution of Lemi-Shin and submerge the suppressor in it. I find it removed that carbon residue nicely after about 15 minutes of soaking.
Well, I hope if nothing else, this give you some ideas.
Thank you! What is the recommended time frame for a good cleaning?
It can depend on the powder you're using. Like, I use a lot of AR-Comp in my .308 and it doesn't take much to clean it out, so when I'm done with a firing session (usually ~ 40-60 rounds fired), I'll do that procedure at the range before coming home, to include taking care of the lugs and the bolt face. Then for a "good cleaning" it's around 200 rounds fired to really clean things up nicely.
With other powders, I'll go 100 to 150 rounds fired before a "good cleaning".
Depending on the caliber, one can go quite a long time without a "good cleaning", like with a .308 one might go 500 rounds with just minimal cleaning. But the longer you go the more that carbon ring builds up making it harder to remove. Some people have gone a lot longer, but the more often and better you keep everything clean, the longer the barrel and the other parts will last.
The biggest issue you have is that suppressor and keeping it somewhat clean. They dirty up awfully fast.
Mine also had red loctite on it when the barrel was removed. I wish I had known that and would have applied some solvent and heat. It took a breaker bar and then some to break it loose first time. For removing the muzzle brake, I first used a big screwdriver or something. The torque applied dinged the port openings a bit, so I made a fairly tight fitting squarish end tool from a steel bar that fit better and wouldn't ding the ports. I removed it frequently when cleaning the barrel to access the crown.
Just picked up a 300 PRC model. It came with the Ruger branded Accurate mags. They are labeled 300 Win Mag, but they are TIGHT. It takes some force to insert and remove them. Anyone else had this problem?
What’s everyone using for a case for your RPR? Soft or Hard? Folded or not? Just transporting to the range from the house. I have a savior 36” double rifle that I use for rimfire, thinking about buying the same but in a larger size but want to see what is out there.
Something like this? Don’t feel like I need to spend an arm and leg to go from house to car to range.
MidwayUSA Heavy Duty Tactical Rifle Case 42 Coyote
The MidwayUSA Heavy Duty Tactical Rifle Case is a heavy-duty solution for anyone needing a rifle case. These cases have been engineered with an...
www.midwayusa.com
I have had good luck with the Allen TAC Six. Good case, not an Armageddon quality but 1/3 the price.
I do have one Not recommendation. There is a case called the "Bulldog". Made in china by folks that obviously hate their work. Worst quality case I have ever seen. Without abusing it in anyway, the case is literally falling apart in less than a year. Don't use it anymore.
For the best, if you can afford it, go with Armageddon Gear. Great case, Not Cheap. For the second best, try the Allen TAC Six.
I do have one Not recommendation. There is a case called the "Bulldog". Made in china by folks that obviously hate their work. Worst quality case I have ever seen. Without abusing it in anyway, the case is literally falling apart in less than a year. Don't use it anymore.
For the best, if you can afford it, go with Armageddon Gear. Great case, Not Cheap. For the second best, try the Allen TAC Six.
Thank you!! I’ll have to check out the Armageddon gear. On your link, Being 55” long I am assuming you don’t travel with your RPR folded?
