Rifle Scopes DNT 7-35x56 FFP Riflescopes

Really Mate !!!:mad:
I stand behind every comment i made which IS based off real world use!!

Since you also mentioned high end optics and bad experiences again ..
I just received a couple of my S&B,s back from repair in Germany ( 6-36,s) ... yesterday one of them failed again on the 50bmg...will not hold focus under recoil..
No issues on the 338lap .. just the 50.
The other S&B 6-36 will be tested today.....Hopefully it fairs better..
Yeah @db2000 you sort owe @wooferocau an apology. The attacks you made were quite strident.

You’ve obviously seen he wasn’t full of it. This is from someone who isn’t his buddy, and is NOT an Arken or DNT fan/user.

Don’t hate those brands or love them…don’t know anything about them, never touched one. Just was attached like a moth to a flame to the controversy and by the fact that the DNT (and DNT’ed Arken) seemed to test unusually well for a cheap scope.

And I’ve am aware of woofs history here. Knew he has quite a collection of high end scopes (and has dissed some of them quite strongly). So I suspected he was not a shill. Yeah, the manner in which he writes reviews can piss some off (ahem cough ZCO cough), but I suspected he probably wasn’t exaggerating.

Trust me, apologizing doesn’t make you a smaller man in the eyes of onlookers. Sure, it can sting bad, but it makes you a bigger man.
 
@carbonbased thanks for the kind words mate!!

Just want to put forward my take on optics... I am in a position that i can own ANY optic i choose . I have had and still own a very large selection of optics.
I have NO bias , but until recently i have had a fixation on one aspect of optics that has bitten more than once. The thing i have always s prioritised is pure outright optical quality. This was a mistake.

A good friend and shooting mate has always had the mind-set that mechanical function and dependability far outweighs "Pure " "Absolute" optical quality. Turns out his preference was far more ideal than mine.

"IF" you can have both optical quality AND mechanical reliability ....all is well , but apart from a couple of examples that hasn't been my experience!

One of my favourite scopes of all is the March Genesis ... Absolutely Superb glass !! But the mechanical side was a complete disaster.

The current S&B,s are again "Superb" Glass BUT ...to many have failed for me ...still ongoing!

Tangent......Tangent does deserve the title "KING" , as my dealer puts it ..

The DNT/ARKEN while not equalling "Top Tier" glass optically ( but still embarrassing a few!!) , so far has been 100% rock solid mechanically .... therefore i have huge amounts of confidence when i shoot and thus usually do well because of that aspect.
If i loose faith/trust in an optic , it usually results in my shooting performance being sub par.

I have learnt to eat my own words....... i used to at every opportunity bag the shit out of "Chinese Cheap Shit" as i put it. I will no longer make that reference..
 
The glass isn’t bad at all. On bright white in the CO sun there is a tiny bit of yellow, but very small.

It comfy for me around 20x, maybe 19x, so it’s not awesome. It’s no Zco 8-40x but it’s $650, so it’s plenty good and I like the reticle it’s easy to use.

I like my S3 Zeiss 6-36x better, especially close in, and I feel over 25x it’s a touch soft, but again not unusable, just better around 20x vs 30x.
 
ARC M-Brace mediums to clear a Sendero contour barrel. But, if you're using a chassis that has a handgaurd that comes up over the top of the barrel, you'll want 1.25" rings at minimum...Probably standard 1.5" mount would be best in that scenario.
I have a Seekins PH2 and ARC 34x28 rings so should be good. Thank you
 
Really Mate !!!:mad:
I stand behind every comment i made which IS based off real world use!!
When people (you in this example) turn up here and don't fit the mould guys are used to they can get awful defensive.
Rather than seeing you as a fair dinkum bloke offering an opinion, they think you are a fed/paid shill/troll etc.

I'm still impressed you never to did a tracking test on any of your scopes despite the wailing and gnashing of teeth back in your March postings.
 
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When people (you in this example) turn up here and don't fit the mould guys are used to they can get awful defensive.
Rather than seeing you as a fair dinkum bloke offering an opinion, they think you are a fed/paid shill/troll etc.
Facts... Example, I'm not a poor anymore, but I still like to find new things that are affordable for the average person, and outperform expectations. That's one reason I love the Solus actions/rifles...When on sale, they're a hell of a lot for the money. That's why I jumped on the Arkens so hard back in the day... I needed to top a bunch of rifles with more updated tactical-style optics at an affordable price point to bring them back from the 1990's technology that WAS on top of them. And they were excellent for their sales prices, but nowhere near top-tier glass, and they did exactly what I needed them to do...Reliable optics that will take a beating doing load development on big magnum rifles. They were not $400 "NF killers" like some internet shills claimed. Did they outperform my expectations, sure... But they were not without flaws. But too many boomer fudds on here were too busy blowing each other on the "cheap china shit" train and refused to even handle or look through one, but according to them they were "cheap Chinese garbage" and anyone talking about them or buying them was "a paid CCP shill".

Another reason I've caught a ton of shit on here was because I've stated a number of times that Schitt-N-Bender is NOT what they used to be, and that they are living on a legacy name, that they're still rocking 40 year old technology and jacking up prices every year, and boy did the heads start exploding... 😂

And let's not even get started about the whole Otter Creek Labs debacle for a long long time until they started gaining attention and praise from big name guys like Ray @ TBAC and Mike & Todd at Dead Air, and more folks started to realize that I wasn't full of shit.
 
Session with the 50bmg and DNT today...
No issues..
3 Shots at 110yds sight in with new load..
Then out to 2000yds
 

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@carbonbased thanks for the kind words mate!!

Just want to put forward my take on optics... I am in a position that i can own ANY optic i choose . I have had and still own a very large selection of optics.
I have NO bias , but until recently i have had a fixation on one aspect of optics that has bitten more than once. The thing i have always s prioritised is pure outright optical quality. This was a mistake.

A good friend and shooting mate has always had the mind-set that mechanical function and dependability far outweighs "Pure " "Absolute" optical quality. Turns out his preference was far more ideal than mine.

"IF" you can have both optical quality AND mechanical reliability ....all is well , but apart from a couple of examples that hasn't been my experience!

One of my favourite scopes of all is the March Genesis ... Absolutely Superb glass !! But the mechanical side was a complete disaster.

The current S&B,s are again "Superb" Glass BUT ...to many have failed for me ...still ongoing!

Tangent......Tangent does deserve the title "KING" , as my dealer puts it ..

The DNT/ARKEN while not equalling "Top Tier" glass optically ( but still embarrassing a few!!) , so far has been 100% rock solid mechanically .... therefore i have huge amounts of confidence when i shoot and thus usually do well because of that aspect.
If i loose faith/trust in an optic , it usually results in my shooting performance being sub par.

I have learnt to eat my own words....... i used to at every opportunity bag the shit out of "Chinese Cheap Shit" as i put it. I will no longer make that reference..
northvic?
 
Did a little more load development today on the factory 6.5CM, and the @CarbonSix 7 SAW... The 6.5CM continued to impress, while the @CarbonSix 7 SAW continued to disappoint...Profusely... I'm going to try one more set of load development tomorrow (holiday) and see if I can get it to shoot any better with H4350 again, but I'm damn-sure not holding my breath... 🙄

My eyes (astigmatism) decided to want to act up today, and not want to focus right, so most of the shots I was looking through a blurry scope with double reticles, no matter which one I was looking through, but towards the end of the day, they started finally focusing right, and I was able to get some good views through the DNT. It's very good for the price, but mine does have some very noticeable CA across the whole image, mostly noticeable on black backgrounds and very shaded targets and backstops, not so much on white, which I find odd. But, I was able to get the image pretty nice and clear despite the CA, and I'd say it's very useable for what it costs. I'm still not disappointed in the $600 price tag for it, but would love to see less CA throughout the image.

Factory Solus 6.5 CM...

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Called it... 😂

I knew based on my previous Arken experiences that there was no way in hell those scopes had the same (or remotely close to the same) glass. My EP5 had very noticeable CA, and the glass was only impressive for it's sale price I got it at (I think $400), other than the glass being less-than-impressive on the Arkens, I think mechanically they are great scopes for their price point. The turrets leave something lacking with the spring-back and the slight bobble (same thing with my DNT). But the clicks are nice, and very positive and loud, and the tracking is on-pointe. The glass in my DNT is significantly better than any of the Arkens I own/have owned.

Tomorrow I'll be hitting the range again for more load development on the factory Solus 6.5CM with the DNT and the Solus/CarbonSix 7 SAW with the Burris XTR-3 5.5-30x56, so I'll give it a better chance, and do some more side-to-side comparing before I ever even fire a shot and get the barrels warm, that way there's zero heat mirage. I hope the taller rings helps avoid the grainy mirage issue I was noticing before, but we'll see. It's a far cry from an alpha-tier optic, and certainly not a replacement for one, however, other than the low-light degradation at higher magnifications, I feel it's definitely worth the $600 price tag...And I'd definitely buy another DNT over an Arken any day of the week.
You didn’t call it. You mistakenly compare the Arken EP5 Gen 2 7-35 to your EP5 Gen 1 5-25. They aren’t the same. I have an Arken 7-35 and a DNT 7-35. They are comparable.
 
You keep comparing the his Arken EP5 Gen 2 to your Gen 1. They don’t compare. I have an Arken 7-35 and a DNT 7-35. They are comparable.
And I don't own a Gen2, so I don't know, I'm going off what has been said. I only know to compare it to my Gen1, because it had really unimpressive glass.

Well, based on the amount of CA in my DNT, and the lack of in his images, I'm assuming that we still get lesser quality glass here in the states, compared to everywhere else... But being that his was a 15-off test run, I'd assume they put some superb glass in them, to handout to influencers to push how awesome they are, then the production models got lower-quality glass to cut overhead costs. I'm assuming that's what happened with the Arkens, as well.
 
And I don't own a Gen2, so I don't know, I'm going off what has been said. I only know to compare it to my Gen1, because it had really unimpressive glass.

Well, based on the amount of CA in my DNT, and the lack of in his images, I'm assuming that we still get lesser quality glass here in the states, compared to everywhere else... But being that his was a 15-off test run, I'd assume they put some superb glass in them, to handout to influencers to push how awesome they are, then the production models got lower-quality glass to cut overhead costs. I'm assuming that's what happened with the Arkens, as well.
How’s ur DNT compared to Burris XTR3i?
 
My Burris XTR-3i is still MUCH clearer, and easier to focus the parallax to a sharper image on the target. Don't know if I got a lemon DNT (not surprising after all the lemon Arkens I got right out of the box), and a really good XTR-3, but that could be the case... 🤷🏼
Thanks. I really wish Burris improve their turret knobs. My XTR3’s parallax knob is so stiff(and it’s kinda small) that it’s impractical to adjust for parralax while shooting PRS stages
 
My Burris XTR-3i is still MUCH clearer, and easier to focus the parallax to a sharper image on the target. Don't know if I got a lemon DNT (not surprising after all the lemon Arkens I got right out of the box), and a really good XTR-3, but that could be the case... 🤷🏼
Do you have any experience with Leupold Mark4HD? How do you like that?
 
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Whelp, I pulled my 6-36 Element Theos off and put on the DNT 7-35 onto my RimX Saturday, got zeroed, ripped the turrets up and down a few times and got 2nd at a rimfire match Sunday.
Is it better than the Theos, probably not. Is it worse... hard to say. Is it a better value...100%.
I don't have enough time behind it to make bold claims, but I do like how forgiving the paralax was for rimfire work and I really really like the reticle. I think I ran the entire match around 16x and didn't run into any problems, but again...it's a very small, one day opinion.

I still consider it a budget optic, and I have "have had" a few budget optics...and with that caveat...I think it's easily the best budget optic I've found to date.

One thing about the top tier optics is you can buy without much fear of quality concern...but it still comes down to personal preference if you're going to actually LIKE the optic. if you DON'T, you take a huge hit trying to flip it. However, if you buy a pre-owned top tier optic, you save 20-25% and that value stays pretty consistent to the 2nd and even 3rd owner.
I have a feeling something like this DNT 7-35 is gonna be worth 500 on the used market quite some time, which makes it pretty much risk free.

So far, Superior to the...
Strike Eagle 5-25x
Bushnell Match Pro ED 5-30x
Arken 5-25x
XRS Gen3 6-36x
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This scope punches above it's weight class but its no Zero Comp

It's pleasant and honestly it doesn't need to be something it's not, it's solid, just low cost
Exactly what conclusion I gathered with mine. It will work great for what I need it for (punching paper and steel, and load development where I need to zoom WAY into the bull for tight groups).
 
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Forgive me if someone mentioned it, but how do the optics compare to a PST II 5-25 and 3-15? (the latter being the best of the two)
I’ll be honest. I think a lot is user dependent. That’s what I’ve gathered over the few years I’ve on this site when reading about varying opinions. If you’ve ever gone on a ghost tour experience, these people will swear up and down about what they’ve experienced and firmly believe in what they’ve seen. I now believe that they believe that to be true…regardless of how unbelievable. Maybe it is, maybe it isn’t. Either way, you’re not gonna convince them otherwise.
One thing that’s for certain, whether it be CA, resolution or whatever, they see what they see. Money is money and that’s what matters. If you like it, same as wine or bourbon, you like it.
I have first hand experience and I agree, this isn’t ZCO but it’s good. I apologize to the Aussie if that’s what this is but please recognize, this is a work in progress and statistics aren’t solved over a small “n”. Please don’t state this as factual. Until actual numbers support it, it’s still what it is, a budget scope that punches well above its weight. Cheers mate and thanks for at least putting the time and effort in evaluating glass. I definitely respect and appreciate that. 🍻
 
I’ll be honest. I think a lot is user dependent. That’s what I’ve gathered over the few years I’ve on this site when reading about varying opinions. If you’ve ever gone on a ghost tour experience, these people will swear up and down about what they’ve experienced and firmly believe in what they’ve seen. I now believe that they believe that to be true…regardless of how unbelievable. Maybe it is, maybe it isn’t. Either way, you’re not gonna convince them otherwise.
One thing that’s for certain, whether it be CA, resolution or whatever, they see what they see. Money is money and that’s what matters. If you like it, same as wine or bourbon, you like it.
I have first hand experience and I agree, this isn’t ZCO but it’s good. I apologize to the Aussie if that’s what this is but please recognize, this is a work in progress and statistics aren’t solved over a small “n”. Please don’t state this as factual. Until actual numbers support it, it’s still what it is, a budget scope that punches well above its weight. Cheers mate and thanks for at least putting the time and effort in evaluating glass. I definitely respect and appreciate that. 🍻
Well hey, wasn’t expecting that and frankly, I’m rather impressed at your response. Hopefully @wooferocau is too.

Thanks and a good day to you!
 
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I’ll be honest. I think a lot is user dependent. That’s what I’ve gathered over the few years I’ve on this site when reading about varying opinions. If you’ve ever gone on a ghost tour experience, these people will swear up and down about what they’ve experienced and firmly believe in what they’ve seen. I now believe that they believe that to be true…regardless of how unbelievable. Maybe it is, maybe it isn’t. Either way, you’re not gonna convince them otherwise.
One thing that’s for certain, whether it be CA, resolution or whatever, they see what they see. Money is money and that’s what matters. If you like it, same as wine or bourbon, you like it.
I have first hand experience and I agree, this isn’t ZCO but it’s good. I apologize to the Aussie if that’s what this is but please recognize, this is a work in progress and statistics aren’t solved over a small “n”. Please don’t state this as factual. Until actual numbers support it, it’s still what it is, a budget scope that punches well above its weight. Cheers mate and thanks for at least putting the time and effort in evaluating glass. I definitely respect and appreciate that. 🍻
Mate... i have the utmost respect for YOU and that response.. (y)

My original thread was never meant to try and portray the DNT/Arken as an equal , outright replacement for "Top Tier" glass . but i certainly did want to put forward that it was , and still is a surprise how the DNT/Arken performs even against some high dollar optics which i own.

My other intent was to put forward to some users that cannot afford a High Dollar optic that the DNT /Arken is something that they can use and enjoy with confidence ... and they shouldn't be looked down upon by others because they are using a "Cheap Shit " optic.
There are far to many "Elitist" individuals here sometimes !!

Time will tell if the DNT holds up.....one sample will stay on one of my Desert Tech HTI ,s ( 50BMG) which i shoot regularly...... if its going to fail it will be on this rifle.

Just got a couple more S&B,s back from repair in Germany....... so , My other HTI will wear the S&B 5-45 for a while ..

Main thing is Enjoy what we do and respect others that are trying to do the same ! :)
 

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Anybody know if the DNT takes the same caps as the Arken? Need to order a set from MK Machining.
Yes, it does...

I'm actually using a NOS set of Arken EP5 caps on mine. They came with one of my EP5's and I never used them. They fit the DNT really well...Very tight, and don't move around or slip off. They're honestly kind of a bitch to get on there, because it requires some finagling and stretching, but once they're on and set in place, they're not going anywhere. They also seal up well, don't pop open randomly, and flip all the way back up against the scope body so they aren't in your way.

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Anybody know if the DNT takes the same caps as the Arken? Need to order a set from MK Machining.
Order by size on the MKM website. The DNT (sunshade at least) is much smaller diameter 2.520 DNT vs 2.600 EP 5-25. Not sure about the Arken 7-35. Eyepiece is the same as EP5 5-25, 1.725.
It’s easier on a computer than phone fyi. You have to scroll way down to find the 2.520.
 
Yes, it does...

I'm actually using a NOS set of Arken EP5 caps on mine. They came with one of my EP5's and I never used them. They fit the DNT really well...Very tight, and don't move around or slip off. They're honestly kind of a bitch to get on there, because it requires some finagling and stretching, but once they're on and set in place, they're not going anywhere. They also seal up well, don't pop open randomly, and flip all the way back up against the scope body so they aren't in your way.

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It doesn’t use the same MKM objective as EP 5-25 but not sure on 7-35.
 
Went back out with the DNT today and had my Zeiss S3 6-36x on a rifle I am shooting a match with tomorrow so got to look through both at similar conditions. The Zeiss was clearer obviously and cut through the heavy mirage better but the DNT did well and for 1/4 the cost it held it's own. Need to still do a tracking test but dialed on the data for 550 yards on my 6mm ARC and hit the small steel so that was a good sign.
 
Got mine today for A$1099.
The turret is actually a bit better than my EP5’s (no ‘backlash’, very tactile; both are much better than my Burris).
The zero stop set screw is not as tight as others described. I just used the No2 bit and had no issue

A little surprise that it actually has full reticle illumination! (Though I never use that)

Going to the range next Sunday to check how it performs. So far so good
 

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Yes, it does...

I'm actually using a NOS set of Arken EP5 caps on mine. They came with one of my EP5's and I never used them. They fit the DNT really well...Very tight, and don't move around or slip off. They're honestly kind of a bitch to get on there, because it requires some finagling and stretching, but once they're on and set in place, they're not going anywhere. They also seal up well, don't pop open randomly, and flip all the way back up against the scope body so they aren't in your way.

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I have those same rings. Wondering if you torqued them to the full 55inch pounds on scope itself?
 
Thank you buddy. I just picked mine up at post office so perfect timing thank You Charles
I do it in 2 increments. I typically run them to about half-3/4 torque on the first go working my way around all 4 screws and kind of letting them settle at that torque, then I finish taking them all the way up to the full 55.

Then, right before I go to the range the first time, I check them again and make sure they haven’t settled before shooting it and getting it zeroed.
 
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I typically run them to about half-3/4 torque on the first go working my way around all 4 screws, then I take them all the way up to the full 55.
I think @koshkin says he first lightly snugs (not torqued to 55) the rail screws first.

Then gets the scope leveled etc and fully torques the ring screws.

Then he goes back and fully torques the rail screws.

Seems like this method gets the ring tight on the tube, which perhaps minimizes the impact that a less-than straight rail has on the tube.
 
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The only Kahles i still have is the older 624i ... its fairly good at lower light levels, but still degrades.

To be truthful ALL my S&B,s other than the 6-36 don't fair well in low light either.

My TT 5-25 is excellent....and the new 7-35 even better..

Is the NF a better scope absolutely. Thays not that hard to know that BUT at the price point and me shooting in only good weather. I’m a mediocre match shooter lmao. I don’t do this for a living. I don’t hint people with my toy gamer guns.

This scope is actually nice especially for the price point.

The build quality seems to be good just can see an issue arising with the screws they utilize for the turret caps and the zero stop. We will see.

There are probably 10 NF 7-35’s, a couple of Gen III 6-36’s, tangets, a premier in the room next to me.

Several people got to take a turn with it and they were all impressed FOR THE MONEY.

again I’m shooting in good weather. And it’s going on a .22.
If the screws that come with it are that cheap, instead of asking them for more just trot down to the hardware store and for a buck or two get a whole pack of good ones that will hold up.
 
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I think @koshkin says he first lightly snugs (not torqued to 55) the rail screws first.

Then gets the scope leveled etc and fully torques the ring screws.

Then he goes back and fully torques the rail screws.

Seems like this method gets the ring tight on the tube, which perhaps minimizes the impact that a less-than straight rail has on the tube.
Correct. With the rail screws, I also torque them, then loosen, then torque them down a couple of times, to make sure everything is properly seated. Alternatively, you could add some oil/grease to the datum surfaces to minimize on errant friction.

ILya
 
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I think @koshkin says he first lightly snugs (not torqued to 55) the rail screws first.

Then gets the scope leveled etc and fully torques the ring screws.

Then he goes back and fully torques the rail screws.

Seems like this method gets the ring tight on the tube, which perhaps minimizes the impact that a less-than straight rail has on the tube.
I didn't go into my full-process, as I know everyone has their own... But here's mine...

I level mine off the gun, using a proven square (spare) flat-bottom 0MOA rail that I have sitting around, and a set of Fix-It-Stix levels (one mounts on the rail, the other sits on top of the turret), and just match the bubbles. My scopes come out dead-on plumb every time.

I first mount the rings on the rail and establish my spacing by setting the scope in the open rings. And then once I have that established, I set the scope aside, and then torque the ring base screws to 55 in-lbs. That way when I torque them with a scope in it, they are where they will be with no tweaking under pressure.

Then I set the scope in them, make sure the little dowels are evenly poking out both sides of the ring caps, level the scope, and torque the ring caps to 10 in-lbs. so it stays in place and doesn't move. Re-check my levels to make sure it's good. Then I run them up about 1/2-3/4 torque (35-40 in-lbs), check levels again, and if it's still 100% square, I finish out at 55 in-lbs.

Then I remove the scope w/ rings torqued and attached, and go put them on the rifle in my vise, and bore-sight it. Then before I go to the range and zero it, I double-check all 4 screws with my Fix-It-Stix 55 in-lbs. limiter to make sure nothing has settled up and loosened after the initial torquing. I also use my 65 in-lbs limiter on the action screws before that first trip out to make sure they're proper, as well. Then I check them intermittently every few range trips, or about every couple hundred rounds just to make sure things are solid.
 
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The glass isn’t bad at all. On bright white in the CO sun there is a tiny bit of yellow, but very small.

It comfy for me around 20x, maybe 19x, so it’s not awesome. It’s no Zco 8-40x but it’s $650, so it’s plenty good and I like the reticle it’s easy to use.

I like my S3 Zeiss 6-36x better, especially close in, and I feel over 25x it’s a touch soft, but again not unusable, just better around 20x vs 30x.
So a 35 power scope that drops off at 20?
 
So a 35 power scope that drops off at 20?
No, like most budget scopes, IQ just starts degrading at about 20x in low light and shadowy conditions. But it's still very useable at 35x in those conditions, just the IQ isn't as good as below 20x. I run mine at 35x all the time, and it's still doing good. Like Frank said, it's not my Razor G3 6-36 or Zeiss S3 6-36, but it's still plenty serviceable, tracks straight, built like a tank, and the glass is pretty impressive for $600.
 
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I didn't go into my full-process, as I know everyone has their own... But here's mine...

I level mine off the gun, using a proven square (spare) flat-bottom 0MOA rail that I have sitting around, and a set of Fix-It-Stix levels (one mounts on the rail, the other sits on top of the turret), and just match the bubbles. My scopes come out dead-on plumb every time.

I first mount the rings on the rail and establish my spacing by setting the scope in the open rings. And then once I have that established, I set the scope aside, and then torque the ring base screws to 55 in-lbs. That way when I torque them with a scope in it, they are where they will be with no tweaking under pressure.

Then I set the scope in them, make sure the little dowels are evenly poking out both sides of the ring caps, level the scope, and torque the ring caps to 10 in-lbs. so it stays in place and doesn't move. Re-check my levels to make sure it's good. Then I run them up about 1/2-3/4 torque (35-40 in-lbs), check levels again, and if it's still 100% square, I finish out at 55 in-lbs.

Then I remove the scope w/ rings torqued and attached, and go put them on the rifle in my vise, and bore-sight it. Then before I go to the range and zero it, I double-check all 4 screws with my Fix-It-Stix 55 in-lbs. limiter to make sure nothing has settled up and loosened after the initial torquing. I also use my 65 in-lbs limiter on the action screws before that first trip out to make sure they're proper, as well. Then I check them intermittently every few range trips, or about every couple hundred rounds just to make sure things are solid.
Some day, before I die, I want to find some tough steel rings and just slap in a Tasco I find in some dusty bargain bin.

Then use one of these at full beans to “snug”
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No fussing no thinking just git ‘er dun lol
< crush crush crush >