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Looking to purchase my first and last suppressor

giannid

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 20, 2017
146
13
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
So just like the post says, looking to purchase a can. Looks like there's a bunch of manufacturers making these things these days. Would like one I can move to different rifles and probably one that mounts to a muzzle brake or flash suppressor as I'd like to be able to use the rifles without the can. I noticed that the Griffin mounts are pretty economical and would like some type of muzzle device that I can economical outfit 6 or 7 rifles with. Will be using the can with 5.56, 6mm arc, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 creedmoor, and 308. Not too much rapid fire going on but will be going on semi autos for pig and coyote hunting along with plinking. What do you guys suggest I go with? Figure you guys are the pros and this post will save me hours of research. LOL
 
I have 8 total cans ... but the one I move from rifle to rifle is my SiCo Chimera-300 and I use the ASR mount on both can and rifles. It's a great combination, and a suppressor that gives me consistently good multi-caliber results. And SilencerCo's customer support is second to none in both responsiveness and resolution. 7 of my 8 cans are from SilencerCo ... I'm definitely a fan-boy.
 
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I bought the SiCo 36M for your exact same line of thinking.

I also configure it down to the short version and use it on my pistols as well.
Been a great little can for the last 2yrs
 
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If you want to use it on rimfire too, I’d plan on two suppressors. Kinda need a take apart can for rimfire otherwise it’ll get packed solid rather quite, relative to the CF can.

I say this as after you get you can, you’ll want to use it on everything lol
 
We’ll see you back in a year asking about second and third cans. I only have one can at the moment, but that’s only because I don’t have room in the budget yet.

I bought an OSS/Huxwrx HX-QD 7.62, and I love it. It jumps among 5.56 and 7.62 ARs. I don’t have extensive suppressor experience, so I couldn’t tell you how quiet it is vs. some other can, but I’d argue from a sound perspective that any suppressor is better than no suppressor. The selling point for me was OSS’ claim that you don’t have to mess with the gas system, and that’s been the case for me, so far.

Happy hunting.
 
I run an Omega 36M and love it. ASR everything.

Suppressors are really user specific. When deciding, check the boxes on attachment method, sound level, hosts, weight.

I also just use it for .308 and 5.56, but wanted 36 cal in case I ever wanted to play with a 9mm. It stays in the safe in K config on a gasser. Goes to the range and hunting typically in long boy mode. I’m a simple man. Kind of glad I went up in bore now that I’m kicking around an 8.6 build.

Again, very user specific.

SiCo is great. My one can has brought me more joy and fulfillment than any one of my guns.
 
Check out PTP Tactical. I ended up with 3 of their cans; rifle, pistol and rimfire. They offer brakes or flash hiders, 5/8-24 and 1/2-28, if you don't want the blowback of a brake. I also like the feature of always ending in the same position when mounted and will lock in place with levers so can be used under a handguard. They are not the lightest but offer good sound reduction. It also looks like they have a few dealers in your area.
 
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No, really. Don’t agonize over it. There are a ton of good options. And, as soon as you get your first one home, you’ll be looking for a different one. Kinda like wives.

The YHM Resonator line of silencers is hard to beat for the money. The Dead Air Nomad is a really good can too. As is the, and the, oh and the too…
 
Can someone explain to ME ,exactly how a can works on a muzzle brake or flash suppressor ?. Gases take the path of least resistance o_O
The can threads over a dedicated muzzle device to create a seal that forces the gasses through the supressor. Some cans can utilize an A2 flash hider similarly. Otherwise, the can direct threads onto the muzzle threads.
 
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The can threads over a dedicated muzzle device to create a seal that forces the gasses through the supressor. Some cans can utilize an A2 flash hider similarly. Otherwise, the can direct threads onto the muzzle threads.

I'm only familiar with cans which direct thread onto a barrels muzzle ,which stuffs gases via ports washers aka baffles .

Wasn't aware any actually covered over a brake or flash suppressor ,as I assumed those had to be removed prior to installing a can/suppressor .
 
So many nuances and trade-offs with suppressors.

No matter which can you choose, you will likely want more suppressors later on down the road to perform other roles.

One of my first suppressors I wanted a more general purpose type can. One that does well on my rifles from AR15's to my bolt guns, and could handle .300NM.

I ended up going with an Abel Co biscuit. It's a great "generalist" suppressor in that it performs well in many different roles.

There are trade-offs though. Its not a large volume suppressor, so it does not suppress cartridges like .300NM well at all. Being all 17-4 SS, it is heavy.

I'm now looking to get a larger volume suppressor like a Theorem-L or Enticer L-Ti to fill the role of more suppression.

Start with one that will fit most of your desires, with the understanding that you will likely need more suppressors in the future that fill other roles.
 
I see your head is definitely still up your ass :poop:
And who is asking the dumbest, ignorant questions you expect any basic gun owner to already know? I just want to save this gem for your next meth induced , autism fueled rant about nothing. This way people who read your dribble can see how ignorant and full of shit you are.
 
I'm only familiar with cans which direct thread onto a barrels muzzle ,which stuffs gases via ports washers aka baffles .

Wasn't aware any actually covered over a brake or flash suppressor ,as I assumed those had to be removed prior to installing a can/suppressor .
Um, I’m unaware of any modern suppressors that do not use some sort of baffle to slow and cool the exiting gasses. (Even wipes are baffles of a sort.) In the image below, you can see the acme threads on both the suppressor and the muzzle device. There is also a taper in front of the threads that seals them from the gasses. The second image shows the side of the can, and you can clearly see weld lines in this tubeless design. Each weld is due to the presence of a baffle at that location.

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One of the biggest mistakes that people do when choosing a suppressor for a gas operated semi is to look only at sound suppression and ignore back pressure, which can affect function. You can run high back pressure cans, but you usually choose your build components and specs with that in mind. Here's the Pew Science info and data page on back pressure: Back Pressure - Suppressors
 
And who is asking the dumbest, ignorant questions you expect any basic gun owner to already know? I just want to save this gem for your next meth induced , autism fueled rant about nothing. This way people who read your dribble can see how ignorant and full of shit you are.
Hey klootzak, unless you were born knowing all you claim you know now you need to STFU.
Like the OP I'm looking to acquire my first(but not last) suppressor here shortly and don't know that much about them. I'm on a learning curve same as the OP.
So, unless you have something useful to contribute you need to FO and go pound sand down a rathole.
Now, back to the regularly scheduled programing.....
 
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Hey klootzak, unless you were born knowing all you claim you know now you need to STFU.
Like the OP I'm looking to acquire my first(but not last) suppressor here shortly and don't know that much about them. I'm on a learning curve same as the OP.
So, unless you have something useful to contribute you need to FO and go pound sand down a rathole.
Now, back to the regularly scheduled programing.....
Sounds like you don't know shit either. Sorry I didn't realize Jerry's kids got out this weekend...or learned to use a computer.
 
Op if you want one can ( which like everyone else said, will not happen) buy something with low back pressure. The Hux cans would be a good example. Or a KGM. Being able to shoot on ARs and not eat a ton of gas or cause malfunction issues is nice. Something 30 cal bore.
 
I'm only familiar with cans which direct thread onto a barrels muzzle ,which stuffs gases via ports washers aka baffles .

Wasn't aware any actually covered over a brake or flash suppressor ,as I assumed those had to be removed prior to installing a can/suppressor .
I had these on my phone. These are all titanium. The brake is on the barrel, and the mount (which you install into your can) then screws onto the brake with a different thread so it's easier to remove. It also has a taper to block the games and stuff from locking up the threads.
 

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TBAC Magnus SR. .30 caliber magnum rated for full auto. Buy once and cry once. There was even one at a discount on the PX recently and may still be available.
They suck on ARs. Too much back pressure. I have a full size magnus on a 16" precision AR and it's still too gassy even with all that volume.

Tbac cans are awesome but they suck on ARs.
 
In the middle of transfer waiting on my third Thunderbeast can. 22td first, ultra 7 Gen 1 30 cal, and a fly 9 in the queue right now.

Haven't really seen anything bad about any of the Abel cans, or the OCL's either.

I agree it is only the first can.
 
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Can someone explain to ME ,exactly how a can works on a muzzle brake or flash suppressor ?. Gases take the path of least resistance o_O

It goes over the top?

I saw my first down-range launch the other day. Pre-production can that clamps over an A2 flash hider...

So stick to brakes or flash hiders that have threaded can attachments.


And like the most of the guys I bought 1 can that's full auto rated and direct thread to keep it simple and easy assuming I'd only have 1.

I now have 4, and more in jail.
 
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Looking at your criteria, you will at least buy two. A good 308 can and a 5.56 can. A 308 can on a 5.56 will not satisfy you and there are plenty that will.

Or a large volume .30 cal can dedicated for bolt guns and a low back pressure .30 cal can that works well on bolt guns and AR15s.

My Abel Co Biscuit performs really well on both platforms. I am not left needing a dedicated suppressor for my AR15s, and I love it for PRS type shooting on my short action cartridges.

Paired with something like a Theorem-L, Magnus, Enticer L-Ti, or something similar and you have a pretty versatile setup.

The reason why I suggest two .30 cal cans is for versatility, given the amount of rifles he wants to suppress. It's nice to have multiple suppressors for a range trip that involves 2 or more rifles. You lose that versatility with a dedicated 556 can.
 
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With subs. Without subs might as well not even have a can.
Three points.

1. While high velocity 22lr ammunition does exist (stingers, etc), standard velocity 22lr is subsonic. This includes the majority of the 22lr ammunition on the market, including pretty much all “precision 22lr.”

2. The sonic crack from hv 22lr is noticeable from a suppressed 22lr firearm, but the overall report from a suppressed 22lr is observably quieter than an unsuppressed firearm shooting the same ammunition.

3. Oh, the irony.
 
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Both are of Q cans which I will never buy anything from them but it shows how it works.

Yeah fully aware of how they work and that illustrates MY perspective perfectly ; Threading onto the barrel ,regardless of thread as adapters are available .

What I was confused about was how they would work attached to a Brake or Compensator ??. Gases would simply blow out compensator ,rather than drive through the can's baffle system . Having read the 1 St. posting **,I assumed I was missing a new device .

** ( Would like one I can move to different rifles and probably one that mounts to a muzzle brake or flash suppressor as I'd like to be able to use the rifles without the can ) ?

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