Looking to purchase my first and last suppressor

[carbonbased]

My center-fire cans I drop in a mason jar full of boretech C4

You know, I just remembered that the last time I managed to open up my two Banish cans I think I used C4 and CLR. (Not together)

This last go around I tried just CLR as I’m out of C4 and no bueno on the open-o.

Hmmmmm

 

[Ex E6]

I always wear ear muffs, and always double up on my bad ear (left…I’m right handed). Sometimes double up on the right too, like when in a three-sided range shed.

Fun fact: right handed shooters often have worse hearing in the left ear because of the more disruptive sound waves that hit the left ear. (Disruptive is the wrong word…technically something like destructive interference).

Anyway, you should also wear ear pro when shooting supersonic ammo (crack is not hearing safe and no suppressor can stop that). If you follow that advice, the laser focus on dB numbers fades into the background because you can’t really tell the difference then.

This is a long answer to say: the Banish 30 and Banish 223 seem roughly as quiet to my protected ears as my other CF suppressors (SF RC3 and TBAC Dominus). Haven’t tested back to back, but haven’t shot one can and went, “Whoa, that’s loud.” Like, ever.

Only thing I’ve noticed is the Banish 30 in its long form (9”) seems a bit quieter than the 7” 223 version (or the 30 in its short 7” form). Unsurprising. Noticed this only in a range shed, so I in the 3-sided shed I use the long Banish and the other two and leave the Banish 223 for pure outside shooting.

YOU were correct !. The guy I was speaking to was referring to there .338 suppressor first baffle being inconel . NOT the .30 Banish .

As I have a .338 LM as well as Win Mag. NOT gonna happen as it's got a killer brake on it . So .30 .223 and 6.5 is gonna be it's objectives .

I dropped the coin today on that Banish .30 Cal. and it's ALL TI construction . They also recommend after 100 rounds to initially clean it . Quite the electronic paper shuffle and ATF account dance . Now wait
IF that aluminum tri torque tool starts acting up ,I'll mill one out of 440 ,as I have a fair amount of stress free about .

I spoke to two different guys at Silencer and they recommend disassembly and applying anti seize BEFORE usage and then open it after 100-250 shots and clean it . Noting how dirty and also weighing it before use and after 250 rounds ,so as to get a handle on how long is too long ,before cleaning .

 

[Ex E6]

You know, I just remembered that the last time I managed to open up my two Banish cans I think I used C4 and CLR. (Not together)

This last go around I tried just CLR as I’m out of C4 and no bueno on the open-o.

Hmmmmm

IF you're having issues slipping liquid between the threads so as to unscrew the cap . Use 70% acetone mixed with 30 % brake cleaner or brake fluid . Works far superior to Kano Labs aerokroil . Believe ME , I used to break down salt water trailers and you should see what happens to axles springs lug nuts ,when left with good old Pacific Salt water corrosion for YEARS .
Soak thread 4- 24 hr. it will come apart .

 

[Ex E6]

Only thing that goes in an ultrasonic is my mask 22 can baffles.


My center-fire cans I drop in a mason jar full of boretech C4, and let them soak a few days. Keep using it over and over, the crap settles to the bottom. Pour it through a coffee filter when it gets too deep for the cans to submerge anymore.

But it takes quite literally thousands of rounds to gain enough carbon fouling to evenly coat the inside of the can.

Some designs are worse than others at capturing the junk. 99% of it is carbon though. If you have copper jackets coating your can you have big alignment problems...

I was thinking more along the lines of jacket material slithering off the rifling and mixing with gases through the baffles . When barrels heat up you can actually see it with very high speed slow motion camera . Those two dudes on Utube ( ones with super cameras ) showed a .50 cal firing and whacking different targets and in a couple of those , it clearly showed debris is following the projectile out the muzzle and it wasn't all gas .

 

[Ronws]

I have 8 total cans ... but the one I move from rifle to rifle is my SiCo Chimera-300 and I use the ASR mount on both can and rifles. It's a great combination, and a suppressor that gives me consistently good multi-caliber results. And SilencerCo's customer support is second to none in both responsiveness and resolution. 7 of my 8 cans are from SilencerCo ... I'm definitely a fan-boy.

I wish I had read this thread earlier. I have the SiCo ASR brake on all of my rifles. When I get the chance, I can buy one of their cans and just move it from rifle to rifle as I see fit, depending on what I am hunting with. It is always a good idea to re-check zero after putting the can back on.

 

[carbonbased]

IF you're having issues slipping liquid between the threads so as to unscrew the cap . Use 70% acetone mixed with 30 % brake cleaner or brake fluid . Works far superior to Kano Labs aerokroil . Believe ME , I used to break down salt water trailers and you should see what happens to axles springs lug nuts ,when left with good old Pacific Salt water corrosion for YEARS .
Soak thread 4- 24 hr. it will come apart .

Ok cool! I’m filing this away!

You must use the liquid brake cleaner, right? Do you like the chlorinated or non-chlorinated?

I’ve never delt with brake fluid.

 

[chevy_man]

Ok cool! I’m filing this away!

You must use the liquid brake cleaner, right? Do you like the chlorinated or non-chlorinated?

I’ve never delt with brake fluid.

Good rule of thumb is if you own a welder, never buy chlorinated. Inevitably you'll clean something, and hitting it with an arc creates chlorine gas. It's surprising how many people have put themselves in the hospital doing this.

No welder, either is fine. It's getting hard to find the chlorinated stuff anymore though.


We always used acetone and transmission fluid. Most brake cleaners are just acetone anyways, so that doesn't make sense to me.

 

[carbonbased]

Good rule of thumb is if you own a welder, never buy chlorinated. Inevitably you'll clean something, and hitting it with an arc creates chlorine gas.

Oh yeah, I know this well by reading this years ago (but I appreciate the warning for others!):

Safety Alert! Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Gas

Brew Bikes LLC 828-406-6668 Phone & Text. [email protected] BREW is a registered trademark and NO images or use without written consent.

www.brewracingframes.com

I guess it actually releases phosgene gas, which in WWI, “was much more effective and more deadly than chlorine.” (link) ya got me both sound bad

 

[Ex E6]

Ok cool! I’m filing this away!

You must use the liquid brake cleaner, right? Do you like the chlorinated or non-chlorinated?

I’ve never delt with brake fluid.

You can use non chlorinated Brakekleen . You can also use Liquid Wrench 30%/70% Acetone , even Dot 3 Brake fluid or AFT works better than Kroil .

I've had Great success with #2 diesel and Acetone ,same % mix . Idea is acetone cuts crap carbon included ,oil based products slightly lube thread area . Makes removing nasty stuck threads much much easier .

Grab a glass jar with enough room to stand can in . Pour in liquid so as to immerse threads ,place an air tight plastic bag with rubber band around jar ( Don't get acetone on rubber band or it's history . Set it somewhere where it won't get knocked over or anywhere near flame . HIGHLY FLAMMABLE !!. Try and minimize your hand to fluid contact ,it's NOT your friend .

After cleaning and disassembling ,I'm gonna rinse with either acetone or Lacquer Thinner paint thinner combo and compressed air .

I don't care all that much for water rinsing personally . Even a can of brake cleaner spraying finish clean is preferable too ME .

You can safely filter used liquid through a coffee filter or paper towel and keep it in an air tight metal can . I always have some older Octane booster or Trick ,outlaw fuel additive type cans which I keep just for that purpose . Put a small square of aluminum foil over the male thread on the storage can and screw down female cap . Makes a better air tight seal .

 

[Ex E6]

Good rule of thumb is if you own a welder, never buy chlorinated. Inevitably you'll clean something, and hitting it with an arc creates chlorine gas. It's surprising how many people have put themselves in the hospital doing this.

No welder, either is fine. It's getting hard to find the chlorinated stuff anymore though.


We always used acetone and transmission fluid. Most brake cleaners are just acetone anyways, so that doesn't make sense to me.

So little of any residue would be present ,it wouldn't matter . Welding on Galvanized metal is far far more toxic than most inexperienced dyi welders realize .

What's REALLY BAD is Household Bleach ( Sodium Hypochlorite ) and Comet cleanser or any ammonia or acidic based product ,talk about chlorine gas !.
Don't ever mix Bleach with hydrogen peroxide either a definite NO NO !!!!!!!.


Brake cleaners contain minute amounts of : Aliphatic compounds and benzene tolulene ,xzlene and naphtha ,which are excellent solvents in their own rights .

Unless one has a chemical account and is DoD vetted ,obtaining many chemicals on their own is impossible now days .

I'm still a PhD. R&D chemist and was employed in Aerospace work for near 3 decades . Getting chemicals is a major PITA ,even for ME .
Now that I've been retired 11 + years and MY level 1 TS clearance expired in 2022 ,along with ALL My NDA'S . Which I'd held for near 50 years .