My Tikka with its Thunder Beast cb brake.
Yes, the muzzle device is threaded to attach to the barrel, and threaded to attach to the suppressor. You buy the muzzle device that interfaces with your suppressor mount. The muzzle brakes that you posted are not designed to work with a suppressor.
Thank You ,as I was wondering how in the hell I would attach one with my current brake on the .338LM simple answer ,NOT gonna happen .
Yes the Ventum Supports a HUB structure. I am moving my ARs to Cobalt precision brake that supports the Silencer Co ASR hub mount.
I wanted the same thing and I went with the Area419 system and really like it.
I own ten or more suppressors. We rent suppressors with some of our guns at the range.
If you don't need the Ventum's HUB compatibility, and don't mind HUXWRX's muzzle device options, the Flow Ti 762 works well on both of those calibers.Thank You ,as I was wondering how in the hell I would attach one with my current brake on the .338LM simple answer ,NOT gonna happen .
Huxwrk 762 Ventum appears to be a flow through ,as well as adaptable for both .762 & .223 and also disassembly for cleaning .
A logical choice for MY 7.62 & .223 platforms .
To say nothing of what happens if one has an account with Silencer Shop or Capital Armory, approval times are less than glacial, and then its almost too easy to buy the next one...
Finishing LAST AR- or rather LAR-10 and hopefully this one is the Best of the Best ,as parts pieces weren't bargains even on sales . I did get a sweet spiral SS fluted barrel to MY specs Nitrided . Now asking the shop IF they can at least attempt to do the chamber in BAM . Waiting for reply I’m quoting this so we can all come back to it when you have 10 suppressors.I'm still researching suppressors ,however have narrowed it down to #3 choices and will end up with #2 , .30 cal suppressors .
Definitely flow through and 7-9" seem reasonably quieter ,want compatible brakes . I'm lucky in one respect ,as I didn't piss away a bunch of coin on muzzle devices ,just a couple of Std. inexpensive units . Don't care about AR 15 suppression ,shit otherwise I'd be like the poor soul who owns #10 or more
I’m quoting this so we can all come back to it when you have 10 suppressors.
.
I'm still researching suppressors ,however have narrowed it down to #3 choices and will end up with #2 , .30 cal suppressors .
Definitely flow through and 7-9" seem reasonably quieter ,want compatible brakes . I'm lucky in one respect ,as I didn't piss away a bunch of coin on muzzle devices ,just a couple of Std. inexpensive units . Don't care about AR 15 suppression ,shit otherwise I'd be like the poor soul who owns #10 or more
I started out with 3 to “Cover all my bases”… Now I’m up to 13…I’m quoting this so we can all come back to it when you have 10 suppressors.
Don’t forget 2x TBAC 22 Takedown rimfire cans…One for rifles, one for pistols.
None of my rimfires has a threaded barrel and really not feeling the need.Don’t forget 2x TBAC 22 Takedown rimfire cans…One for rifles, one for pistols.
Yeah, I shoot my rimfires more as well, but the ones I shoot aren’t threaded (54:18 BR and AI Anschutz 1727) and the only one I am thinking of getting ( AI Anschutz 54:18 with 1.1”straight) won’t be threaded. I guess I do have 2 Kidd supergrades with threaded barrels but my kids seem to prefer center fires.
They’re worth threading… One you go subsonic suppressed .22LR you never go back. Just saying.
If you ever do get yours threaded, @LRI does great work. He threaded a muzzle for me. Mine wasn't an Anschutz but he knows them well.
A different threadMy experience with regards to rimfire 22's:
First, it's important to understand that the little 22 is one of the more difficult cartridges to shoot well. It's a horribly inefficient little thing that travels roughly 1/3rd the speed of anything modern or "cool". What this ultimately means from my perspective is that the bullet loiters around in the barrel 3x longer than what is typical of the centerfire world. That equates to a shooter that must be on his/her game. Shooting fundamentals come into play a whole lot more with these things. It's what makes them so effective as training guns because if you pay attention to detail with a rimfire, the transition to high-power is a whole lot easier in most instances.
When I worked for Anschutz and built stuff for the resident athletes at the OTC in Colorado Springs, keeping things simple was always a priority for me. I never really messed with tuners on international 3P, biathlon, or Silhouette rifles. (Not all of these are Olympic sports, but it's the 3 principal disciplines we catered to there so I had a lot of exposure to them back then) Some of the bench guns we did used a tuner, but they were always looked upon as more of a novelty.
A lesson I learned early on shooting competitively: If you spend any amount of time in the high-power game, be it Service Rifle, Palma, High Power Match rifle, or whatever... If you want to witness a competitive shooter come apart at the seams, watch what happens when an "on-call" shot splashes somewhere well wide of where the shooter decided it should have hit. For anyone experienced, the most typical response is they instantly start grabbing and yanking on things to try and figure out what has come loose on the gun. Sights, brakes, cans, guard screws, bases, whatever it might be. That's where experienced competitive shooters start looking when problems develop from thin air.
So, take that lesson and apply it here. A suppressor likes to come loose. When I used to shoot PRS stuff, I dealt with it all the time. Part of the ritual became snugging up a can right before a stage. I see no benefit from not developing this practice as a standard routine for anyone running a can on a rimfire as well. It certainly won't hurt anything. As far as ultimate accuracy goes, I don't see them harming anything. Off the cuff, it's been my experience that shooters do a better job on suppressed guns just because they are easier to shoot. Less noise ='s less annoyance so people can devote more attention to shooting instead of being bothered by stuff.
If we're going to try and science this, then I offer this for consideration: On every piece of high-speed footage I've ever watched of a rifle being fired, the projectile always outpaces the gas plume. If that is indeed fact, then I would say it's unlikely for a can to somehow disrupt what the bullet is doing once it leaves the muzzle. As for the "H" word (harmonics) I have no idea. I have heard that fluting is supposed to ruin that. According to a lot of the general population that is a ten commandment violation.
(Thall shall not flute barrels)
We flute a metric pile of barrels here at LRI and they seem to shoot just fine. This includes rimfires. Cut, buttoned, broached, and hammer forgings. It doesn't seem to matter. Last, take this with a grain of salt as its an attempt at humor more than anything:
There are 5 things an American man does better than anyone else. Just ask us.
If we fail at any one of these things it is far easier to blame it on something out of our control vs facing the fact that we might just suck at it. The last one is the exclusion of course.
- Drive cars
- Catch Fish
- Drink beer
- Shoot guns
- Fuck women
Assuming this is true I offer the following:
Talk on forums less and focus on well-executed practice more.
Good luck.
C.
LRI
www.snipershide.com
Like I said I just don’t see the point, I have to wear hearing protection anyway, Range rules. With ARs and other center fires booming I don’t even notice my 22LR. Maybe if I had a dedicated range of my own, but that’s not reality. My ARs get exercised out in forests and gravel pits, my son wants one for his 6.5 creed match gun, my daughter doesn’t care much but might Later want one on her 6 creed and what’s a TacOps without a suppressor?
If you shoot little animals, then a suppressor on that 22LR shooting CCI subsonic segmented ammo at 1050fps is effing golden!
Very true, all my shooting is at inanimate targets. I have absolutely nothing against hunting, just not my thing. Last time I went hunting was back while I was in college and went Rabbit hunting over thanksgiving with my cousin's family (failed horribly, blaming being stuck with a cricket 22 as a 6’2” 18yr old). If I was hunting squirrels no question!
If those are the 3 things you'll be shooting mostly, in bolt-actions, the Thunderbeast Magnus or Magnus-S, or Otter Creek Labs Hydrogen-L or Hydrogen-S gets my vote...Depending on whether or not you want a 9" can for maximum effectiveness, or a 7" can that it much easier to maneuver while hunting or walking through the woods.I've never even considered using a Bolt gun suppressed ,90% of mine aren't threaded . I'm looking at #3 specific Cal. .308 , 6.5CM and just maybe a 7mm RM . So just considering suppressing those . Shit AR 15's I've got unfired 30 year old Colt's and BushMasters ,along with same and various cobbled units which I do fire.
I've several rifles and high end shotguns I'm seriously considering selling . As I'm down sizing 60 years accumulation . My beloved 7mm RM's will be the LAST thing I part with ,as I've had at least one since 1964 ,so we're old friends .
And I don't own an AR 7mm Rem Mag ,as yet
Be careful. I ordered an EX-Tune gas tube in November after reading this thread and I never received it. Multiple calls and inquiries have gone unaswered.
I think that suppressor is actually fine depending on what you want to do with it (most of them are). I do not understand the open and cleaned comment.
Wait, the first baffle is Inconel in the Banish 30? Did they tell you that? I don’t see that info on the product page.
I either put them in the "dip" or soak them in a solution like CLP (there are some other good options). I then rinse them off with soap and water and shoot them. To me, I get the idea of the removal baffles and it kind of was a thing years ago but for me not much point now. I feely admit that there are plenty of people who do a better job cleaning and maintaining equipment.
Wait, the first baffle is Inconel in the Banish 30? Did they tell you that? I don’t see that info on the product page.
I own that can, and all my baffles are definitely titanium…so unless they stealth updated it…
It’s a good can (also own the 223 can), but I’ve found that actually taking either the 30 or 223 apart is problematic after awhile. It was fine for the first cleaning but has gotten progressively worse, even with me scrubbing the threads clean.
Even with nickel anti-seize, the darn thing locks up (front cap and 9” extension part).
Removing that front cap is especially a pain in the ass as it has a dumb shallow triangle-shaped recess that interfaces with a similarly shaped “bit”. Said bit is made of aluminum and cams out easily…very hard to get any real torque on it.
Definitely buy that baffle-pusher tool they sell. It works great (once you finally disassemble the damn thing).
I’m considering just pretending that it’s a sealed can and clean it that way with CLR or Breakthrough. It’s that big of a pain in the ass.
Edit: I see the Banish 338 has an Inconel blast baffle, and that’s noted in the description. They don’t call that out either with the 30 or 30 Gold.
. I figure it's got to cut the Crack out of 5.56 and lesson Oomph of .308 & 6.5 CM ,so what the hell .
I’ve never cleaned a centerfire can. My most shot one has something like 2300rds through it, and I think that being user serviceable is mostly overrated. I would weigh the can when you get it, and then throw it in the ultrasonic (or use the Breakthrough cleaner) after it gains a few ounces.
Yeah, that’s what I used.
Yeah, that doesn’t seem to do that much. I haven’t tried it, but that’s what I’ve read.
www.snipershide.com
www.snipershide.com
I always wear ear muffs, and always double up on my bad ear (left…I’m right handed). Sometimes double up on the right too, like when in a three-sided range shed.
