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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Mag well and butt are affixed and hardening. Since this is not a production unit I'm not taking the time to let each stage properly cure. It was a ton easier to affix them to the base chassis than it was to fabricate the bits themselves. Sometime later today I'll pull the rifle action from the chassis. I set the mag well up with the action in the stock to make sure I got all the angles of dangles right and zero'd out any slop: I insist that feeding from the mag be 100% right out of the box even if that means mags are a little snug fitting in the mag well. The rear of the action is retained, for now, in the stock by a hoop and the front is retained by the safety selector. I'll drill the holes for the cross bolts later but it's nice to see that it could be a tool-less arrangement if I wanted to. I have a good bit more FG work to do to finish the fencing around the mag release hardware and to set up the bag rider / spare mag well and getting the pistol grip boss affixed and reinforced but it's darned near ready for void filling and truing and then I can make a proper mold and then I can produce the final version. One thing I can say, even with the quick and dirty nature of this effort, it's one rigid little bastard.
I have bought all of my bolts but one used. They all have came with replacement bolt knobs. Anybody know of a source for them? I know the thread but the issue is knobs made without recessed threads make the handle far too long. The ones I have bought second hand have knobs that screw on but fit over the handle some vs screwing just to the end of the handle.
Mag well and butt plate initial durability tests are done. The thing is wicked strong. Working on the area behind the mag and the trigger guard & pistol grip.
The risers that are in production are moving along nicely. If good temperatures hold out they’ll be done this week.
The risers that are in production are moving along nicely. If good temperatures hold out they’ll be done this week.
One sec....
Just in front of the chamber it's approximately 1.5" to the top of the rail. If you're using the measure for scope height and adding to the advertised height of the rings then use 1.4". NOTE: For scope height measurement, you don't need to go to the 2nd decimal place. Keep in mind the M2 is equipped with a 30MOA rail so it's about 1/8" higher at the back than the front so there is no single number that will answer your question more precisely without the question being more precisely stated.
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Update
Passenger side.
Driver side.
Again, this is a developmental model meant to get the shape and features figured out, not a production unit or even a prototype as such. It's ugly and the FG is not wonderfully void free on purpose. I got the grip boss started and thought, why not make it long as hell. I have my reasons. I got the mag release roughed in (I rotated the driver side release button 90deg because, reasons) and discovered that the way I planned on making the spare mag work won't work at all so, after a bit of back to the drawing board time, I have a new and probably better idea that I'll try to make it work and if that doesn't pan out then at least we'll have a long, flat-bottomed bag rider and maybe a pocket to keep the OEM torque wrench and such in. Have to work on the trigger guard, but I guess not today as hoped for. I got a call-out to put down some livestock for a local this morning and a separate call for a contract gig to do some computer work this afternoon. This CF/FG stuff is pretty expensive to do sculpture like this in (mistakes can mean you start over) and day jobs are very few and far between. So, I have to take whatever gigs I can get to support my epoxy resin habit. On the upside, the factory butt spacer/pad arrangement will work just fine so I can do an adjustable butt as an up-option and retain most of the disassembly procedure intact. Not sure if caliber changes will be supported without at least partially removing the rifle from the stock but I am treating that as a requirement and I don't see anything blocking it working the original way. I added 2 more layers of glass weave to the whole thing so, now it's tough enough to stand on, more impact resistant and resists torsional loads a lot better. The monopod still fits and there are still no screws holding the thing together, it's all a friction + interference fit. The final model will use some screws but not the dozen or so that the OEM stock required and they'll all be the same length because I'm not so sadistic as to make them both numerous and several different lengths.
What do you think... should I mold in a thumb shelf for the trigger hand?
On a down note, I have to completely disassemble the trigger mechanism because I got a drop of resin in there and it's gumming up the works (insert sheepish embarrassed look here). I did learn my lesson though and have been taping off critical bits like trigger mechanism bits much better since I discovered my idiot mistake.
Passenger side.
Driver side.
Again, this is a developmental model meant to get the shape and features figured out, not a production unit or even a prototype as such. It's ugly and the FG is not wonderfully void free on purpose. I got the grip boss started and thought, why not make it long as hell. I have my reasons. I got the mag release roughed in (I rotated the driver side release button 90deg because, reasons) and discovered that the way I planned on making the spare mag work won't work at all so, after a bit of back to the drawing board time, I have a new and probably better idea that I'll try to make it work and if that doesn't pan out then at least we'll have a long, flat-bottomed bag rider and maybe a pocket to keep the OEM torque wrench and such in. Have to work on the trigger guard, but I guess not today as hoped for. I got a call-out to put down some livestock for a local this morning and a separate call for a contract gig to do some computer work this afternoon. This CF/FG stuff is pretty expensive to do sculpture like this in (mistakes can mean you start over) and day jobs are very few and far between. So, I have to take whatever gigs I can get to support my epoxy resin habit. On the upside, the factory butt spacer/pad arrangement will work just fine so I can do an adjustable butt as an up-option and retain most of the disassembly procedure intact. Not sure if caliber changes will be supported without at least partially removing the rifle from the stock but I am treating that as a requirement and I don't see anything blocking it working the original way. I added 2 more layers of glass weave to the whole thing so, now it's tough enough to stand on, more impact resistant and resists torsional loads a lot better. The monopod still fits and there are still no screws holding the thing together, it's all a friction + interference fit. The final model will use some screws but not the dozen or so that the OEM stock required and they'll all be the same length because I'm not so sadistic as to make them both numerous and several different lengths.
What do you think... should I mold in a thumb shelf for the trigger hand?
On a down note, I have to completely disassemble the trigger mechanism because I got a drop of resin in there and it's gumming up the works (insert sheepish embarrassed look here). I did learn my lesson though and have been taping off critical bits like trigger mechanism bits much better since I discovered my idiot mistake.
can I get one made of bamboo cuz i'm a tree-hugger biodegradable and all that
