rimfire suppressor for precision rifle

My issue with my .22 (TB) suppressor is I always forget to carry muzzle down. One muzzle up and so much crap falls done the barrel and into the action my Vudoo won’t cycle correctly. If you force the bolt closed it mucks it up.

So now the .22 can just stays in the safe.
Thank you for pointing that issue out. I had not considered it before.
 
This is 10 minutes soak in CLR then rinsed under warm water. I clean the tube while it soaks. Takes about 20 minutes to clean the can

I also have noticed chunks of carbon come out. I’m sure a lot depends on type of ammo used. Some has lube some doesn’t etc if I remove the can and tap against my hand I can get a little pile of carbon bits out of it. Not as bad as my centerfire but still there

10 minutes in CLR
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View attachment 8499484View attachment 8499485
I clean my Banish 30 and Banish 22 the same way. Never have an issue.
 
I ended up with a TBAC 22TB when I was doing my rimfire can search after I got annoyed with my old Specter 22. I didn’t have a precision rimfire rifle at the time, but the baffle stack indexing assembly (and ergo reassembly) seemed the most repeatable.

I’ve since purchased a Vudoo, but it’s not threaded. 😂
 
Personally I prefer either 3/4 or M18 threaded muzzles. I think that's optimal to minimize the bore expanding at the threads. I wish this was standard.


Thank you all for the info

Why not just back bore the muzzle?

I think the bore expansion is a problem leftover from improper stress relieving, and is blown out of proportion with today's steels and cut rifling.

But if you're worried about it, it seems easy and then no adapters.
 
This is 10 minutes soak in CLR then rinsed under warm water. I clean the tube while it soaks. Takes about 20 minutes to clean the can

I also have noticed chunks of carbon come out. I’m sure a lot depends on type of ammo used. Some has lube some doesn’t etc if I remove the can and tap against my hand I can get a little pile of carbon bits out of it. Not as bad as my centerfire but still there

10 minutes in CLR
View attachment 8499483
View attachment 8499484View attachment 8499485

I realize that I'm a little late to the party and the guys that know me will probably roll their eyes and think "Jeez, he sure bangs this drum a lot"........

But, for cans like the TB Takedown that has removable Stainless baffles, yes I put the baffles into a ziplock bag filled with 50/50 water and CLR, then put it into the hot water bath of my ultrasonic cleaner and run it for about an hour.

The real trick is that when the baffles are clean and dry, hose them down with a good MIG welding Anti-Spatter Spray and let them drip dry before re-assembly. It makes cleaning REALLY easy and effective. They come out of the Ultrasonic cleaner absolutely spotless.
 
I realize that I'm a little late to the party and the guys that know me will probably roll their eyes and think "Jeez, he sure bangs this drum a lot"........

But, for cans like the TB Takedown that has removable Stainless baffles, yes I put the baffles into a ziplock bag filled with 50/50 water and CLR, then put it into the hot water bath of my ultrasonic cleaner and run it for about an hour.

The real trick is that when the baffles are clean and dry, hose them down with a good MIG welding Anti-Spatter Spray and let them drip dry before re-assembly. It makes cleaning REALLY easy and effective. They come out of the Ultrasonic cleaner absolutely spotless.
That is a great idea!
 
Why not just back bore the muzzle?

I think the bore expansion is a problem leftover from improper stress relieving, and is blown out of proportion with today's steels and cut rifling.

But if you're worried about it, it seems easy and then no adapters.
I have personally seen bores on some of the very best barrels made today open up from threading. And I have seen unaccountable flyers / poor accuracy (all relative mind you, I am not talking really bad but definitely noticeable) with back bored muzzles that were tested with a lot of different ammo & lots. Ultimately it was resolved with the removal of the back bore. This isn’t an absolute, but it happens.
 
I need to try that cleaning method with my 22TD & Spectre II. Don't shoot suppressed w/22RF nearly as much as I used to, but it's been awhile since I last cleaned either of these two 22RF cans, so why not try it?
 
I realize that I'm a little late to the party and the guys that know me will probably roll their eyes and think "Jeez, he sure bangs this drum a lot"........

But, for cans like the TB Takedown that has removable Stainless baffles, yes I put the baffles into a ziplock bag filled with 50/50 water and CLR, then put it into the hot water bath of my ultrasonic cleaner and run it for about an hour.

The real trick is that when the baffles are clean and dry, hose them down with a good MIG welding Anti-Spatter Spray and let them drip dry before re-assembly. It makes cleaning REALLY easy and effective. They come out of the Ultrasonic cleaner absolutely spotless.
An empty mason jar or mayonnaise jar works well too.
 
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I have been following this thread with great interest. The discussion about cleaning has raised several questions for me. I have seen bits and pieces about cleaning in different posts, but cannot seem to find a summary of all the aspects in one location. Can any of you direct me to a summary? For example, there is a cleaning mix that works but makes a horribly toxic solution after use (they are all toxic, but this stuff is noted as hard to dispose of). Is it aluminum you aren't supposed to put into an ultrasonic due to erosion? Can simple green be used on anything?
 
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