Updated advice on optics at or under $1500
- Thread starter Enjoystoshoot
- Start date
Some people shoot targets with rings based on MOA
Some even shoot 1 or 2 MOA plates.
A 1MOA plate and your spotter says you are 1.2mils left
Some even shoot 1 or 2 MOA plates.
A 1MOA plate and your spotter says you are 1.2mils left
If you have a target scale in inches (like a ruler on the target) use inches.
But for most targets and MOA turrets dial the MOA.
But for most targets and MOA turrets dial the MOA.
The calculations in most calculators, like the one shown, includes the 1.047 factor between inch and MOA.
Do I need to change this from 1.000 to 1.047 because on my calculator it gives me my drop in inches and then I can select the second column and I’ve got it set to 1 centimeter/100m you can see it in the picture above.
Attachments
Well, that’s what I’m working on. I don’t know if I’ve got it set correctly or not. I just sent you a private message.You need to stop having it give you info in inches.
Moa=moa already
Moa>inches>moa is a useless and burdensome redundant conversion that gets you back to where you were in the first place.
Moa>inches>moa is a useless and burdensome redundant conversion that gets you back to where you were in the first place.
Maybe you should listen/read more and post less. When people are giving you advice, listen instead of getting butt hurt and defensive. Especially when you don't even know what your talking about.
If only there was this ruler inside of a scope that could be used to measure and for adjustments...........................
You’re the kind of guy that gives asshole trolls a good name. You’re not even part of the discussion and the best part about this site is you can block members that are jerkoffs like you. Too bad you’re not as smart as you think you are because there’s not a ruler inside of my scope. It only has a crosshair. Spend less time trolling people on a thread that you’re not even a part of you aren’t even mentioned you had to come over here and find me to take a shot. Anyway, I put you on the ignored list so I’m done with your lame ass excuse for a member.
Last edited:
Although it may not be a ruler in your scope, per se, it can be used as a ruler quite easily. I pulled the below screenshot off the Leupold website and it shows what the subtensions are.
Your scope has the TMOA reticle according to that link you sent. If you can measure the distance between your Point of Aim (POA) and Point of Impact (POI) with your reticle, you have a rough and dirty way to measure what your corrections will be provided all other variables are ruled out.
For example, the reticle below shows a green dot for the POA and a red dot for the POI. Looking at that, you can measure the distance (in MOA) from POA to POI and, from that, know your correction needs to be roughly U2.0 MOA, L2.0MOA. Instead of thinking in clicks and inches, read the markings on the elevation/windage turrets and make the corresponding corrections in MOA like @Rob01 had mentioned, keep everything speaking the same language. The same applies for your situation between the 200yd shot with a 100yd zero. Anyway, I'm not sure if this provided any clarity but feel free to do with these ramblings as you see fit.
Well, it's not a traditional "ruler" in inches, but your reticle is technically a ruler, just measured in MOA (or MILs if you use MILs)... So, in a way, yeah, you do have a ruler in your scope. That's what advanced modern stadia reticles are used for...To measure.
Yes that is what should show up in a few days. It will be the only scope I have like that. I’m looking forward to learning to use it. Lots to learn for me.
I don’t have a scope that has hash marks or anything in it. Everything I own except the one that I ordered yesterday has just a simple cross hair so that wisenheimer that was busting my chops over a ruler was just a troll. He doesn’t even know what I have. the one with the “ Marks” hasn’t even showed up yet. It’s still being shipped, but I do look forward to learning how to use it correctly. People that like to burst people’s chops like that for no damn reason and really just small people compensating for some insecurity.
This here is what I think @Rob01 was saying.
And i would second that. Technically, if sighting for zero, one doesn't really need the red target with 1" squares. You could take a blank sheet and mark a '+' on it. Shoot 2 or 3 shots. Use the reticle to measure. For example, I use MOA but that is just an angle of measurement and it doesn't matter here. It could be mil. So, adjust by clicks on the dial and don't worry about the inches. So, your group centers at about 1.5 MOA up and 2 MOA right.
Adjust the turrets, let the barrel cool, try again.
However, in the dense woods, I will use math when I am ranging with the reticle. Woods so dense that my rangefinder may reflect off a leaf and give me 30 yards, which is wrong for where I am aiming. But knowing the trees in my AO, I can use the reticle to find range.
So, a 3 inch wide tree trunk is taking up 4 MOA in my (FFP) reticle. (3*95.5)/4 = 71.625 yards. I measure in yards instead of meters but it doesn't really matter.
Since I have a 100 yard zero, that is close enough to apogee to not adjust anything. Hold dead on target and hold for wind.
From what I have heard and read, many prefer mil because the reticle presents a clearer sight picture and quicker response to simply holding over in the reticle. I may eventually try a mil optic for gits and shiggles. And may like it, too.
As a hobbyist and hunter, of course, I just use what I am comfortable with.
I think a lot of hay is being made out of one needle. We should get back to the topic. Since 1500 is the budget, which is fine for budget builds, what are the scopes one can get that do the most for that amount of money? Or less? If you find a scope that does not cost as much as 1500 but does everything you need. why not that one?
Well this is entertaining. I think the most sound advice is to not think in inches. Pretend inches don't exist. Use the scale of your scope, whether it be moa or mil. That being said, mil makes more sense to me. And if someone is going to be spotting for you, they are likely going to be spotting and giving adjustments in mils and their spotting scope is also likely to be in mils.
Also, for scopes with a basic duplex reticle, you can probably find out the spacing between the thick lines on the reticle, and use that to measure. Just remember that it will only work at full magnification with a second focal plane scope.
Also, for scopes with a basic duplex reticle, you can probably find out the spacing between the thick lines on the reticle, and use that to measure. Just remember that it will only work at full magnification with a second focal plane scope.
I just ordered an Athlon Eres ETR 3-18 for a DMR build, still waiting for it to arrive. Was on sale for just under $600. They also have a 4.5-30. Supposedly great for the money.
You should be a therapist. Your gentle touch is soothing.
This.
Earlier in the thread, I recommended the newer Leupold Mark4HD, but have since changed my mind, because unfortunately, I found out the hard way that Leupold customer service and how they handle their warranty stuff is pretty f'ing bad. Out of 3 different examples/units I've owned of the Mark4HDs, none were without issues. IMHO, while their glass is really good, the Mark4HDs are still made/built like a cheap scope and get cheap scope quality control, so they're maybe not such a good option for someone who plans to really use it and send a lot of rounds downrange.
A used Vortex Razor Gen2 is still the scope I'd recommend as someone's "first real scope" in the ~$1500 range... its glass might be a step behind the best shit out there now, but everything else about it as far as build quality and durability is still up there with the best, and Vortex will take care of you (usually within a week or so) if you have any issues or somehow manage to break it.
Two 1/4 MOA clicks at 200 yards is actually a little over 1", not a half inch. Exactly 1 click/1/4 MOA = .523" at 200Y or two clicks is 1.046" at 200Y. So 1 click will get you where you want to be.
Last edited:
I did this a number of years ago. At 100 yards, I measured the distance from the tip of the 6 O'clock duplex line to the center cross hair. It was 3.5 ". I zeroed the rife @ 100 yards and at full power, I used that tip of the 6 O'clock duplex for a 300 yard shot. I tested it with a 30/06 W/ a 150 gr. bullet and a 270 win. W/ a 130Gr. bullet. Both Rifles were able to hit a 1/2 liter water bottle at 300 yards using the tip of the thick duplex as an aiming point.
Similar threads
