You know, I just remembered that the last time I managed to open up my two Banish cans I think I used C4 and CLR. (Not together)
This last go around I tried just CLR as I’m out of C4 and no bueno on the open-o.
Hmmmmm
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Looking to purchase my first and last suppressor
- Thread starter giannid
- Start date
This last go around I tried just CLR as I’m out of C4 and no bueno on the open-o.
Hmmmmm
YOU were correct !. The guy I was speaking to was referring to there .338 suppressor first baffle being inconel . NOT the .30 Banish .
As I have a .338 LM as well as Win Mag. NOT gonna happen as it's got a killer brake on it . So .30 .223 and 6.5 is gonna be it's objectives .
I dropped the coin today on that Banish .30 Cal. and it's ALL TI construction . They also recommend after 100 rounds to initially clean it . Quite the electronic paper shuffle and ATF account dance . Now wait
IF that aluminum tri torque tool starts acting up ,I'll mill one out of 440 ,as I have a fair amount of stress free about .
I spoke to two different guys at Silencer and they recommend disassembly and applying anti seize BEFORE usage and then open it after 100-250 shots and clean it . Noting how dirty and also weighing it before use and after 250 rounds ,so as to get a handle on how long is too long ,before cleaning .
IF you're having issues slipping liquid between the threads so as to unscrew the cap . Use 70% acetone mixed with 30 % brake cleaner or brake fluid . Works far superior to Kano Labs aerokroil . Believe ME , I used to break down salt water trailers and you should see what happens to axles springs lug nuts ,when left with good old Pacific Salt water corrosion for YEARS .
Soak thread 4- 24 hr. it will come apart .
Only thing that goes in an ultrasonic is my mask 22 can baffles.
My center-fire cans I drop in a mason jar full of boretech C4, and let them soak a few days. Keep using it over and over, the crap settles to the bottom. Pour it through a coffee filter when it gets too deep for the cans to submerge anymore.
But it takes quite literally thousands of rounds to gain enough carbon fouling to evenly coat the inside of the can.
Some designs are worse than others at capturing the junk. 99% of it is carbon though. If you have copper jackets coating your can you have big alignment problems...
I was thinking more along the lines of jacket material slithering off the rifling and mixing with gases through the baffles . When barrels heat up you can actually see it with very high speed slow motion camera . Those two dudes on Utube ( ones with super cameras ) showed a .50 cal firing and whacking different targets and in a couple of those , it clearly showed debris is following the projectile out the muzzle and it wasn't all gas .
I wish I had read this thread earlier. I have the SiCo ASR brake on all of my rifles. When I get the chance, I can buy one of their cans and just move it from rifle to rifle as I see fit, depending on what I am hunting with. It is always a good idea to re-check zero after putting the can back on.
Ok cool! I’m filing this away!
You must use the liquid brake cleaner, right? Do you like the chlorinated or non-chlorinated?
I’ve never delt with brake fluid.
Good rule of thumb is if you own a welder, never buy chlorinated. Inevitably you'll clean something, and hitting it with an arc creates chlorine gas. It's surprising how many people have put themselves in the hospital doing this.
No welder, either is fine. It's getting hard to find the chlorinated stuff anymore though.
We always used acetone and transmission fluid. Most brake cleaners are just acetone anyways, so that doesn't make sense to me.
Oh yeah, I know this well by reading this years ago (but I appreciate the warning for others!):
Safety Alert! Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Gas
Brew Bikes LLC 828-406-6668 Phone & Text. [email protected] BREW is a registered trademark and NO images or use without written consent.
www.brewracingframes.com
I guess it actually releases phosgene gas, which in WWI, “was much more effective and more deadly than chlorine.” (link) ya got me
both sound bad
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You can use non chlorinated Brakekleen . You can also use Liquid Wrench 30%/70% Acetone , even Dot 3 Brake fluid or AFT works better than Kroil .
I've had Great success with #2 diesel and Acetone ,same % mix . Idea is acetone cuts crap carbon included ,oil based products slightly lube thread area . Makes removing nasty stuck threads much much easier .
Grab a glass jar with enough room to stand can in . Pour in liquid so as to immerse threads ,place an air tight plastic bag with rubber band around jar ( Don't get acetone on rubber band or it's history . Set it somewhere where it won't get knocked over or anywhere near flame . HIGHLY FLAMMABLE !!. Try and minimize your hand to fluid contact ,it's NOT your friend .
After cleaning and disassembling ,I'm gonna rinse with either acetone or Lacquer Thinner paint thinner combo and compressed air .
I don't care all that much for water rinsing personally . Even a can of brake cleaner spraying finish clean is preferable too ME .
You can safely filter used liquid through a coffee filter or paper towel and keep it in an air tight metal can . I always have some older Octane booster or Trick ,outlaw fuel additive type cans which I keep just for that purpose . Put a small square of aluminum foil over the male thread on the storage can and screw down female cap . Makes a better air tight seal .
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So little of any residue would be present ,it wouldn't matter . Welding on Galvanized metal is far far more toxic than most inexperienced dyi welders realize .
What's REALLY BAD is Household Bleach ( Sodium Hypochlorite ) and Comet cleanser or any ammonia or acidic based product ,talk about chlorine gas !.
Don't ever mix Bleach with hydrogen peroxide either a definite NO NO !!!!!!!.
Brake cleaners contain minute amounts of : Aliphatic compounds and benzene tolulene ,xzlene and naphtha ,which are excellent solvents in their own rights .
Unless one has a chemical account and is DoD vetted ,obtaining many chemicals on their own is impossible now days .
I'm still a PhD. R&D chemist and was employed in Aerospace work for near 3 decades . Getting chemicals is a major PITA ,even for ME .
Now that I've been retired 11 + years and MY level 1 TS clearance expired in 2022 ,along with ALL My NDA'S . Which I'd held for near 50 years .
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Does anyone know the actual reasoning behind suppressors requiring an NFA tax stamp . I mean other than Revenue which is a shit load of coin into Gov. coffers . Class # 3 guns yeah OK 1934 NFA ,I get it . DON'T LIKE IT but get it . Yet a can isn't a class 3 device ,it's not even a class 1 device
It’s also how the government ensures their lucrative $200 pay-to-play revenue stream for years to come. In 2016, the ATF raked in $62,596,000 from individuals paying for tax stamps!
The National Firearms Act (NFA), 73rd Congress, Sess. 2, ch. 757, 48 Stat. 1236 was enacted on June 26, 1934, and currently codified and amended as I.R.C. ch. 53. The law is an Act of Congress in the United States that, in general, imposes an excise tax on the manufacture and transfer of certain firearms and mandates the registration of those firearms. The NFA is also referred to as Title II of the federal firearms laws, with the Gun Control Act of 1968 ("GCA") as Title I.
All transfers of ownership of registered NFA firearms must be done through the National Firearms Registration and Transfer Record (the "NFA registry").[2] The NFA also requires that the permanent transport of NFA firearms across state lines by the owner must be reported to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF). Temporary transports of some items, most notably suppressors (also referred to as silencers), do not need to be reported.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Firearms_Act
It’s also how the government ensures their lucrative $200 pay-to-play revenue stream for years to come. In 2016, the ATF raked in $62,596,000 from individuals paying for tax stamps!
The National Firearms Act (NFA), 73rd Congress, Sess. 2, ch. 757, 48 Stat. 1236 was enacted on June 26, 1934, and currently codified and amended as I.R.C. ch. 53. The law is an Act of Congress in the United States that, in general, imposes an excise tax on the manufacture and transfer of certain firearms and mandates the registration of those firearms. The NFA is also referred to as Title II of the federal firearms laws, with the Gun Control Act of 1968 ("GCA") as Title I.
All transfers of ownership of registered NFA firearms must be done through the National Firearms Registration and Transfer Record (the "NFA registry").[2] The NFA also requires that the permanent transport of NFA firearms across state lines by the owner must be reported to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF). Temporary transports of some items, most notably suppressors (also referred to as silencers), do not need to be reported.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Firearms_Act
From what I’ve gathered, Congress was set to ban pistols and revolvers. To stop the complaining from people/industry, they compromised and banned SBRs, SBSs, suppressors, etc.
I believe the whole purpose of the thing was to get laws down that allowed the arrest of gangsters. Sort of like how Al Capone was nailed for tax evasion, not killing people.
I could be wrong, don’t have time today to revisit my sources.
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- Nov 3, 2010
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I’ve got a suppressor I bought in 2010 or so that hasn’t ever been cleaned. I couldn’t possibly begin to count how many rounds it has on it.
My user serviceable 22 suppressor died at around 12 years old and probably 50k rounds on it. The aluminum baffles just fell apart.
Yeah aluminum isn't a great choice as to heat durability . Titanium is far superior ,as is inconel is to corrosion .
- Nov 3, 2010
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- 22,124
Unheard of tech back then for the most part. Aluminum and SS were the go to material.
My YHM SS has served me well for 15 ish years. Have a modern update with inconel blast chamber and stainless baffles. So far it has sounded good
Yup lol had this same thought. That thinking changes quickly though.
Congress CAN'T Ban any firearms ; Supreme Court has set that in STONE . Aka 2 Nd. amendment shall NOT be infringed upon .
States on the other hand can jury jerk useless concocted attempts but are always shot down if taken to the Supreme Court .
The NFA 1968 law included machine guns being LEGAL TO OWN ,provided they were manufactured prior to 1986 .
That is a PRIME example of ownership made so costly as to be ridiculous . As everyone willing too sell want's their $ 200.00 X # of years they owned it plus what they paid someone else to purchase it ,with their tax stamp years added . Hence why many are 6 figures or more now .
I've been trying to find the actual law pertaining to suppressors but as yet haven't found it . I seriously want to know the logic and basis for suppressors being labeled a destructive device and therefore required to have a tax stamp .
Makes zero sense ,you can't slip a sear into one ,there's NO trigger group and most certainly can't load one ,so the danger is ??.
Remember suppressors are NOT SILENCERS or they would be called Silencers . They simply suppress some of the noise associated with shooting . Not all of it . I believe we all have been hood winked by the NFA & BATF
OK so 1934 set the law and is : Silencer and Suppressor are the same thing and was set before any of us were born !.
So Government gets our MONIES AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!. I'll fire off an Email to the President and see what can be reviewed .
I say they're NOT the same thing .
18 U.S.C., § 921(A)(24)
The term “Firearm Silencer” or “Firearm Muffler” means any device for silencing, muffling, or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including any combination of parts, designed or redesigned, and intended for the use in assembling or fabricating a firearm silencer or firearm muffler, any part intended only for use in such assembly or fabrication.
Note: Any device that meets the definition as stipulated above in 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(24) is also subject to controls of the National Firearms Act 26 U.S.C., Chapter 53.
A silencer, also known as a sound suppressor, suppressor, or sound moderator, is a muzzle device that suppresses the blast created when a gun (firearm or airgun) is discharged, thereby reducing the acoustic intensity of the muzzle report (sound of a gunshot) and jump, by modulating the speed and pressure of the propellant gas released from the muzzle. Like other muzzle devices, a silencer can be a detachable accessory mounted to the muzzle or an integral part of the barrel.
A typical silencer is a metallic (usually stainless steel or titanium) cylinder containing numerous internal sound baffles, with a hollow bore to allow the bullet to exit normally. During firing, the bullet passes through the bore with little hindrance, but most of the expanding gas ejecta behind it is redirected through a longer and convoluted escape path created by the baffles, prolonging the release time. This slows down the gas and dissipates its kinetic energy into a larger surface area, reducing the blast intensity, thus lowering the loudness.[1]
Silencers can also reduce the recoil during shooting, but unlike a muzzle brake or a recoil compensator, which reduce recoil by vectoring the muzzle blast sideways, silencers release almost all the gases towards the front. However, the internal baffles significantly prolong the time of the gas release and thereby decrease the rearward thrust generated, as for the same impulse, force is inversely proportional to time. The weight of the silencer itself and the leverage of its mounting location (at the far front end of the barrel) will also help counter muzzle rise.
Because the internal baffles will slow and cool the released gas and contain gunpowder that is still burning upon exit from the muzzle, silencers also reduce or even eliminate the muzzle flash. This is different from a flash suppressor, which reduces the amount of flash by dispersing burning gases that are already released outside the muzzle, without necessarily reducing sound or recoil. A flash hider, or muzzle shroud, in contrast, conceals visible flashes by screening them from the direct line of sight, rather than reducing the intensity of the flash
So Government gets our MONIES AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!. I'll fire off an Email to the President and see what can be reviewed .
I say they're NOT the same thing .
18 U.S.C., § 921(A)(24)
The term “Firearm Silencer” or “Firearm Muffler” means any device for silencing, muffling, or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including any combination of parts, designed or redesigned, and intended for the use in assembling or fabricating a firearm silencer or firearm muffler, any part intended only for use in such assembly or fabrication.
Note: Any device that meets the definition as stipulated above in 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(24) is also subject to controls of the National Firearms Act 26 U.S.C., Chapter 53.
A silencer, also known as a sound suppressor, suppressor, or sound moderator, is a muzzle device that suppresses the blast created when a gun (firearm or airgun) is discharged, thereby reducing the acoustic intensity of the muzzle report (sound of a gunshot) and jump, by modulating the speed and pressure of the propellant gas released from the muzzle. Like other muzzle devices, a silencer can be a detachable accessory mounted to the muzzle or an integral part of the barrel.
A typical silencer is a metallic (usually stainless steel or titanium) cylinder containing numerous internal sound baffles, with a hollow bore to allow the bullet to exit normally. During firing, the bullet passes through the bore with little hindrance, but most of the expanding gas ejecta behind it is redirected through a longer and convoluted escape path created by the baffles, prolonging the release time. This slows down the gas and dissipates its kinetic energy into a larger surface area, reducing the blast intensity, thus lowering the loudness.[1]
Silencers can also reduce the recoil during shooting, but unlike a muzzle brake or a recoil compensator, which reduce recoil by vectoring the muzzle blast sideways, silencers release almost all the gases towards the front. However, the internal baffles significantly prolong the time of the gas release and thereby decrease the rearward thrust generated, as for the same impulse, force is inversely proportional to time. The weight of the silencer itself and the leverage of its mounting location (at the far front end of the barrel) will also help counter muzzle rise.
Because the internal baffles will slow and cool the released gas and contain gunpowder that is still burning upon exit from the muzzle, silencers also reduce or even eliminate the muzzle flash. This is different from a flash suppressor, which reduces the amount of flash by dispersing burning gases that are already released outside the muzzle, without necessarily reducing sound or recoil. A flash hider, or muzzle shroud, in contrast, conceals visible flashes by screening them from the direct line of sight, rather than reducing the intensity of the flash
I finally decided to add to my Nomad L and TBAC 22L cans with a Huxwrx Ventum 762 for my AR10 and 15's.
Tried to find justification for the extra $500 for a Flow and couldn't really do it so went with the Ventum.
Just ordered it today so haven't even started paperwork but sure hoping it's approved in days like so many I hear of instead of the 11 months my first two cans took.
My youngest son is 3 weeks waiting into his first so hope he gets approved soon also so he can have it for the few coyote contests that are left this season.
Tried to find justification for the extra $500 for a Flow and couldn't really do it so went with the Ventum.
Just ordered it today so haven't even started paperwork but sure hoping it's approved in days like so many I hear of instead of the 11 months my first two cans took.
My youngest son is 3 weeks waiting into his first so hope he gets approved soon also so he can have it for the few coyote contests that are left this season.
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OK so 1934 set the law and is : Silencer and Suppressor are the same thing and was set before any of us were born !.
So Government gets our MONIES AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!. I'll fire off an Email to the President and see what can be reviewed .
I say they're NOT the same thing .
18 U.S.C., § 921(A)(24)
The term “Firearm Silencer” or “Firearm Muffler” means any device for silencing, muffling, or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including any combination of parts, designed or redesigned, and intended for the use in assembling or fabricating a firearm silencer or firearm muffler, any part intended only for use in such assembly or fabrication.
Note: Any device that meets the definition as stipulated above in 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(24) is also subject to controls of the National Firearms Act 26 U.S.C., Chapter 53.
A silencer, also known as a sound suppressor, suppressor, or sound moderator, is a muzzle device that suppresses the blast created when a gun (firearm or airgun) is discharged, thereby reducing the acoustic intensity of the muzzle report (sound of a gunshot) and jump, by modulating the speed and pressure of the propellant gas released from the muzzle. Like other muzzle devices, a silencer can be a detachable accessory mounted to the muzzle or an integral part of the barrel.
A typical silencer is a metallic (usually stainless steel or titanium) cylinder containing numerous internal sound baffles, with a hollow bore to allow the bullet to exit normally. During firing, the bullet passes through the bore with little hindrance, but most of the expanding gas ejecta behind it is redirected through a longer and convoluted escape path created by the baffles, prolonging the release time. This slows down the gas and dissipates its kinetic energy into a larger surface area, reducing the blast intensity, thus lowering the loudness.[1]
Silencers can also reduce the recoil during shooting, but unlike a muzzle brake or a recoil compensator, which reduce recoil by vectoring the muzzle blast sideways, silencers release almost all the gases towards the front. However, the internal baffles significantly prolong the time of the gas release and thereby decrease the rearward thrust generated, as for the same impulse, force is inversely proportional to time. The weight of the silencer itself and the leverage of its mounting location (at the far front end of the barrel) will also help counter muzzle rise.
Because the internal baffles will slow and cool the released gas and contain gunpowder that is still burning upon exit from the muzzle, silencers also reduce or even eliminate the muzzle flash. This is different from a flash suppressor, which reduces the amount of flash by dispersing burning gases that are already released outside the muzzle, without necessarily reducing sound or recoil. A flash hider, or muzzle shroud, in contrast, conceals visible flashes by screening them from the direct line of sight, rather than reducing the intensity of the flash
I purchased my first suppressor December 3, 2024. A bit over 2 months ago. I said it would be the only one I bought for a while. After putting a hundred rounds or so through it and then shooting my unsuppressed hunting rifle, I realized I never want to shoot unsuppressed again. I now have 3 with 2 more on the way.. I may have a problem.
Last suppressor lol.... good luck with that endeavor.
