Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

In my opinion, and the empirical data tends to support this, somewhere around 338 Lapua and above, a suppressor is inferior enough to a good break that there is a perceptible increase in recoil with the suppressor compared to an efficient muzzle break. When you get up to 50 caliber, it is very noticeable. And 50 caliber is hard enough to shoot effectively at baseline even with a good break.

This is why I removed my elite iron 375 can and break from my 375 Chattah and now I just shoot it with a terminator T5 muzzle brake

From now on, I am never going to shoot anything above 338 suppressed unless it has an anchor break on it like the new thunder beast Magnus cans

If you have the opportunity, screw that brake on hand tight and shoot a shot and take a video and then unscrew it and screw on the 50 caliber can and take a video or better yet post a video of the whole thing in sequence so that we can seethe movement of the rifle under both conditions
Amen! I agree 100% have you seen the new recoil X screw on brakes for some cans, looks like a good idea
 
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The industry standard break for a 50 BMG is the AR 50 brake. It is what almost all of the FCSA competitive shooters use.

They can be very difficult to come by and one of similar construction is available from K & P rifle barrels. I have not personally shot that one, but it is simply a matter of size and volume oh, and the AR 50 break weighs 4.5 pounds so that helps
 
Then there is this thing which supposedly tames the recoil extremely well but for the love of Jehovah at what cost? Not only $6000 but almost 2 feet and 5 pounds of added length and weight. And almost 2.5” in diameter

It is misleading that thunder beast always shows you them shooting it on a short barrel 50 BMG.

Here it is on a standard 29 inch barrel but on a bull pup which knocks off about a foot of overall length. And it is still taller than a human being. If you ran this on a 29 inch standard 50 cal rig, the thing would be pushing 7 feet long

No thanks

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I've shot a 30 lb .50 bmg a bit without a brake. You prepare for it, touch it off and it's pretty fun. Fin enough to do it again. But I will say, don't do it to much in a close period of time. You won't be able to focus your eyes . It's a bit hard on the retinas. And there's a world of difference from a 647 gr projectile to an 800 grain. I shoot a bunch of 894 gr projectiles pushed by 238 GR or rl50 in my 40 lb gun. I'm not putting a suppressor on....I'm not that cool.
 
Ar-50 armalite brakes are 1-14 thread, 1 inch 14 threads per inch. The k&p brakes are typically that thread also, unless it was a custom order. They're quite efficient compared to a round brake. I use a mini version of the k&p a friend makes on my dt SRS a1 on the .338 Lapua improved and 37xc barrels. Everiwants a Terminator or whatever they think the Internet should sell them ......I'll say the clamshell is effective, all that round stuff is just ok and that's it. On them, I'll set them up with a threaded shaft collar to lock them. Hand tighten to desired index against the collar and then lock the pinch collar, it'll load the threads , lock the brake. Take off easily to clean, nothing more than a simple small Allen wrench needed. Self timing. Here's a picture. The collars are $14 or stainless steel ones are a bit more from McMaster Carr.
 

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I would think a suppressor could be better than a brake, in that it is trapping gas inside for a longer time, and seems like it would push forward while doing that, but it doesn't redirect the gas and produce thrust in an oposet direction either. You have fired these with brakes, please let us know what you find out.
I'll let you know. If the rain holds off,
I get out here this weekend.
 
I didn't have much time to piddle with this today so it's not much of a video. I will say just hold it snug and it's really not bad with the suppressor and no brake. I only shot 3 rounds but could've easily shot more.
50 bmg, 750 grain Amax. Elite Iron Alpha 50 can. Average 2,601 fps. No idea why I can't post this 2 second video. Anyways, its not bad shooting just the can. My set-up weighs 29 lbs.
 
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You bought the one on EO didn’t you? lol
Nope I got a counter offer from GB but I’m undecided if I’m even money ahead because it’s a standard length handguard and I want covert lol but his offer is still very good… but, it’s still standard length handguard haha I halfway considered asking you if you’d sell or trade handguards for my original short covert handguard
 
Nope I got a counter offer from GB but I’m undecided if I’m even money ahead because it’s a standard length handguard and I want covert lol but his offer is still very good… but, it’s still standard length handguard haha I halfway considered asking you if you’d sell or trade handguards for my original short covert handguard
Midwest gun works has them for 250ish usually
 
Something I have been meaning to try for a while.
Machined up a couple of external weights to put on one of my HTI s..
Total weight is now 42 pounds..
The 375 is now like shooting a 6mm !!!
:)
 

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Something I have been meaning to try for a while.
Machined up a couple of external weights to put on one of my HTI s..
Total weight is now 42 pounds..
The 375 is now like shooting a 6mm !!!
:)
I recently was thinking about using water bottles for that purpose on a lightweight hunting rifle.

Some kind of bracket or something, that you could easily take on and off say a 16 oz water bottle on each side. Would only give you 2# though, unless you went with a liter on each side.
 
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Absolutely amazing work.
I was thinking of getting my machinist to do something similar but replace the entire handguard with a steel tube with an arca bottom rail combined with a 1.250 full bull barrel to balance the weight at the front.

Any chance you'll be selling the rear bag rider ?
I may, I did make some extra of the harder to make parts just in case. Do you have an HTI or SRS? There is a little bit of difference in length and attachment to the grip. The monopod works so well with this setup too, I have had one on my SRS for several years now, I love how they work for me. On the SRS you can change mags with the bag rider on, on the HTI you have to remove the bag rider by pulling a quick pin. I decided it works so well, and feels so good to shoot that I don't care. If I have to go tactical I can quickly remove the bag rider.
 
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I may, I did make some extra of the harder to make parts just in case. Do you have an HTI or SRS? There is a little bit of difference in length and attachment to the grip. The monopod works so well with this setup too, I have had one on my SRS for several years now, I love how they work for me. On the SRS you can change mags with the bag rider on, on the HTI you have to remove the bag rider by pulling a quick pin. I decided it works so well, and feels so good to shoot that I don't care. If I have to go tactical I can quickly remove the bag rider.
SRS the old Gen 2 picatinny.
 
How did you attach them? What do they weigh? Would love to have my local machinist make a set
They are a piece of piss to make..

Material.... 2" wide x 1" thickness x 234mm long S1214L ( free machining leaded ) bar stock .
From one end come in 44mm on centreline ... First hole ( 5.5mm dia ) 7 remaining holes at 25mm centre to centre ( 8 total) . Counter bore each hole with 10mm End Mill....0.200" Deep.
Radius top edge with R8 Radius cutter.
Fasteners are #10/32x1" ( 8 per side)

In this config each weight is approx 2.3 KG ( 5 pounds)

I machined out 2 14mm Channels on the rear with a 14mm Ball Nose End Mill...i then inserted 6 14mm Solid carbide End mills ( Old Blunt ) . These were then epovied into the rear channels 3 top 3 bottom. this takes each weight up to 2.8KG ( 6 pounds)
 

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Anyone running a 1.7" high or higher 35mm scope mount on their HTI ? I'm running a Spuhr SP-5602 but I need another 1/4" or so in height so I'm not leaning sideways for a cheek weld.
I just got an HTI50 and mounted my scope on high rings (1.34"). I was able to get a decent cheek weld when I was initially getting a rough sight-in done from the prone position, but when I went to shoot it from the bench I noticed exactly what you described. I felt like I had to lay my temple flat on the cheek piece in order to just barely get any alignment. I read one of the replies below about rotating the rifle slightly toward me and aligning the scope with gravity as a workaround, but it just seems like for a $7k+ precision rifle, there has to be a better way. I'm looking at the eratac 1.85" mount thinking it might be high enough. Does anyone here have any experience with this? Or alternatively, has anyone come up with any other solutions?Thanks!
 
I just got an HTI50 and mounted my scope on high rings (1.34"). I was able to get a decent cheek weld when I was initially getting a rough sight-in done from the prone position, but when I went to shoot it from the bench I noticed exactly what you described. I felt like I had to lay my temple flat on the cheek piece in order to just barely get any alignment. I read one of the replies below about rotating the rifle slightly toward me and aligning the scope with gravity as a workaround, but it just seems like for a $7k+ precision rifle, there has to be a better way. I'm looking at the eratac 1.85" mount thinking it might be high enough. Does anyone here have any experience with this? Or alternatively, has anyone come up with any other solutions?Thanks!
I’ve got the EraTac adjustable mount and it’s perfect. There is enough height for a comfortable cheek weld, even for folks with larger heads. It also happens to align with my thermal perfectly.
 
I'm sorry boys, but at -17f today, checking zeros, swapping barrels, it's super bright with the sun that low. Camera is just shade, doesn't pick up much for color. It's cold. It's not to deserty for the desert tech rifles here
 

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Question that someone here may know an answer to:

Desert tech headstamped brass; anyone know who makes it for them? Hornady, Peterson?

Reloading a bunch of 6.5 Creedmoor while snowed in, just have Fed 215 primers and Staball and 143gr ELD-X to load.
Worked up a load with CCI primers in the fall pushing 2950FPS with 44gr of Staball.
Have Norma, Hornady, Peterson, and Desert Tech headstamped brass.
 
Replying to my own above;

Norma Averaged ~ 159gr with 52.7gr capacity
Peterson averaged 169gr with 52gr capacity
Desert Tech (Not tumbled yet) averaged ~173gr with 51.5gr capacity
Hornady averaged ~153gr with 53gr capacity.

All small sample sizes (5) which the statisticians among us know won’t reach enough power for statistical significance, but man there is a lot of variation in everything but the Peterson.

I’m still just gonna prime everything with a Fed 215 and shove 42.0 to 44.0 gr of Staball in a Ladder test over the chrono and see what comes out.

Anyone else play with a pet load on 6.5 Creedmoor and a Fed 215 primer?


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