ARC Coup de Grace Builds

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Finished but not yet hit the range.

CDG, Xylo core chassis in Patriot Brown, Preferred Barrel (6.5 Creedmoor, 24", CF 50-50NI, 0.170" freebore), Bix-n-Andy trigger with flat shoe, Zeiss S3 6-36x56 w/ MKM caps, ARC M-Brace scope mount in Patriot Brown, Handgrip Bastogne burl walnut stippled, Hoptic USA quiver, titanium hardware throughout.
 
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Finished but not yet hit the range.

CDG, Xylo core chassis in Patriot Brown, Preferred Barrel (6.5 Creedmoor, 24", CF 50-50NI, 0.170" freebore), Bix-n-Andy trigger with flat shoe, Zeiss S3 6-36x56 w/ MKM caps, ARC M-Brace scope mount in Patriot Brown, Handgrip Bastogne burl walnut stippled, Hoptic USA quiver, titanium hardware throughout.
Where did you source the colored ti hardware
 
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Took the bolt apart on my new CdG for the first time tonight and had a learning experience getting it back together. The final step took me a while to figure out. Can I just get a sanity check that this little plunger is supposed to be loose? I know when things were apart I could rotate it, so that that small protrusion would stop it from being pushed. This is correct right? That little plunger being able to be depressed is how to initiate the takedown process to start right?


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It’s in the right spot, but it looks like the plunger is upside down that little nipple on the plunger should be in the firing pin shroud, and it holds it in the firing pin shroud. The plunger should not wiggle when properly installed in the bolt.
Upside down or rotated? That pin never came out for me, but it’s able to rotate. When it was apart I could rotate it so that nipple went into a slot that stopped it from being depressed.
 
It’s in the right spot, but it looks like the plunger is upside down that little nipple on the plunger should be in the firing pin shroud, and it holds it in the firing pin shroud. The plunger should not wiggle when properly installed in the bolt.
Disregard my last post. I got it now. I rotated that pin 180°. I didn’t realize there was a channel for that tit to ride in and still allow that plunger to be depressed to facilitate taking the bolt apart.
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Yup looks good, I definitely could have worded that better.
Another thing is to get the firing pin back in or out of the bolt body. Turn right to unlock it from the bolt body and left to lock it in the bolt body. Kinda opposite of what you would normally think. Lefty loosie righty tighty cause if you turn it right it’s a pain to get it apart.
 
Yup looks good. Then to get the firing pin back in or out of the bolt body. Turn right to unlock it from the bolt body and left to lock it in the bolt body. Kinda opposite of what you would normally think. Lefty loosie righty tighty
Yeah I struggled to get it back together last night, but this morning I did it 3 or 4 times easily. Just one of those things once you do it it’s mindless.

Thank you for spotting my mistake! I’m glad I asked.
 
Yeah I struggled to get it back together last night, but this morning I did it 3 or 4 times easily. Just one of those things once you do it it’s mindless.

Thank you for spotting my mistake! I’m glad I asked.
I had the same issue the first time I took mine apart. I ended up watching and rewatching the bolt assembly vid Ted did to figure out what I did wrong.
 
I had the same issue the first time I took mine apart. I ended up watching and rewatching the bolt assembly vid Ted did to figure out what I did wrong.
Yeah I watched that video 10x last night lol Now that I’ve got it I see what he’s doing but the video doesn’t show the details I wish it did. I also ended up taking it apart the wrong way to decock it and had to learn how to fix that mistake too. I hope to never make that mistake again.
 
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With Ted’s videos, some stuff he goes over way too quickly and you have to fill in the blank yourself. It’s been like that since the first gen Nuke.
 
Any deets on that swept ball handle? By the sounds of it, the standard ball is too short, but that thing is giving me serious AI/Tempest/Sterk vibes.
Why do you say that the standard ball is too short? Curious. I believe that when you pay for the swept handle it is the same handle, just bent.

That said, I’ve always liked the swept handle look.
 
Okay, I see that and can only say that is a preference that I’m not fond of. I don’t like a huge ham-handed bolt knob. If you are one who prefers longer bolt knobs, then that’s fine.
I mostly like the idea of swept handles. I really missed my Sterk knob when I went from Tikka to Lone Peak and a TL3.
 
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Finished but not yet hit the range.

CDG, Xylo core chassis in Patriot Brown, Preferred Barrel (6.5 Creedmoor, 24", CF 50-50NI, 0.170" freebore), Bix-n-Andy trigger with flat shoe, Zeiss S3 6-36x56 w/ MKM caps, ARC M-Brace scope mount in Patriot Brown, Handgrip Bastogne burl walnut stippled, Hoptic USA quiver, titanium hardware throughout.
Where did you get those screws, and do you have the specs?