Multicam all the things
I am partial to the digital patterns. Particularly the marine digital (Marpat) or the German Flecktarn
I am partial to the digital patterns. Particularly the marine digital (Marpat) or the German Flecktarn
-2 for non-Multicam drapesMulticam all the things
LoL
Same rifle, 2 different paint jobs. This year going to be going with an MDT stock and the rifle will enter a new phase of its life. Much like me.
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Stock standard GRtech SuperVarmint in .308Win. At this point I've walked around 12km already. This was the only shot for the day. I had all the confidence in the world knowing the shot would land precisely where I aimed.
I have 2 Tikka's now and don't regret either. I am probably one of the few that stil have them in the original stock.
LoL
LoL nope. I hunt alone and am not into vanity selfies. No cameras following me around. I will likely not hunt with it again. At 70 it’s hard just to get out into the Appalachian's to hunt. I suspect my last trip out with any rifle was last year.
I do plan on hunting some paper at the local range though lol
Read the bolded. It works. 9/16 thread face mount brake.
Thanks!! I will be doing some camping come spring, but hunting may be more than I can handle. The next best thing is just to be out there lol.
If the camping goes well I may hunt next winter, but it gets tougher every year. Getting out there is not bad, it’s the coming back that gets tough. The good part is at no point do I need to get into a hurry lol. As I tell my wife “I’ll just call out sick” (am retired)
Started life as a TAC A1, shot it that way for a few years... Put this together in December, currently working on a 7 SAUM Tikka build with another I just bought for the action.
I need to just pick up a aics mag and try in in my CTR bravo. I feel it should be pretty damn close to working with both.
I seen somewhere else that someone modified the mag latch on their CTR stock, and it allowed them to use both.
CTR is 2.950”, AICS SA per MDT is 2.870” with binder plate and 2.960” without binder plate, but they say you might have to modify the receiver to run them that way. I don’t know what other brands of AICS are I imagine similar. Polymer magazines are usually shorter as well.
I probably know the answer but is there any reasonable way to modify a Tikka Tac A1 stock to accept long action length Tikka T3 regular mags? At the moment Tikka TAC A1 = CTR MAG = 2.950" correct? Would like it to accept a magnum cartridge and COAL 3.150" or similar. Any hack method available?
Nope. The magazine galley hasn’t the material to remove. Plus, the mag retention system is engineered for their proprietary short action mags.
That I don’t know I’m not a reloader I use factory ammo, not something I’ve ever measured
Oops had a typo, fixed
Oops had a typo, fixed
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Yes if you load a round to max ctr mag length will you touch the lands in a factory tikka barrel?
Edit: Some drivel that I posted because I forgot how the TACT A1 look.
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Not exactly a Tac A1 chassis solution, but you could do an MDT ESS long action with the 15” full rail and high scope mount base, then other XTN to carbine adapter, and their carbine to carbine folding adapter, and then use the Tac A1 stock. Instant LA Tac A1 at home that will accept LA AICS. Or do the same with a Cadex if they do a LA for the Tikka.
Hi guys,
I'm in 2k+ shots on my original TACT A1 6.5CRMR barrel and after tinkering with my mates new super varmint I had an idea.
Instead of rebarreling the rifle, I might just buy a new super varmint. Take the A1 elevated scope rail and the trigger, but them with the super varmint action+barrel and drop it into my chassis. The super varmint stock is decent enough for hunting and the tact A1 barrel will last an eternity in it.
I don't mind slow tikka barrels, I get 800m/s+ and I'm satisfied with it. This way I'll get heavier new barrel (SS and cerakoted) MLU and a "new" hunting rifle. What am I missing here, any insights?
I'm in 2k+ shots on my original TACT A1 6.5CRMR barrel and after tinkering with my mates new super varmint I had an idea.
Instead of rebarreling the rifle, I might just buy a new super varmint. Take the A1 elevated scope rail and the trigger, but them with the super varmint action+barrel and drop it into my chassis. The super varmint stock is decent enough for hunting and the tact A1 barrel will last an eternity in it.
I don't mind slow tikka barrels, I get 800m/s+ and I'm satisfied with it. This way I'll get heavier new barrel (SS and cerakoted) MLU and a "new" hunting rifle. What am I missing here, any insights?
Zero issues with that, it’ll work great. That’s a better barrel profile anyway for that chassis
Sterk Shooting - EuroOptic
Sterk Shooting shrouds and bolt handles soon available at EuroOptic! Call now at (570) 368-3920 for more information.
The Sterk is what you seek, however it is out of stock again last I checked. If you don’t want to wait on it to come back in stock, the Anarchy Outdoors swept handle with a ball knob is very similar to the Sterk, you could go that route as well. I have both, I like the Sterk better but the Anarchy is almost as good.
I am looking at purchasing a T3X TAC A1 and I and undecided on caliber.
I was thinking that 6.5 Creedmoor was my best bet but I am also considering .308. Both have advantages and disadvantages... 6.5 CR is longer range, better G1/G4 numbers, however .308 delivers more power and is much more available in a SHTF situation. My use case currently is pinging steel or punching holes in paper, but that may expand to hunting.
Any thoughts from someone with more experience than I would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks much!
I was thinking that 6.5 Creedmoor was my best bet but I am also considering .308. Both have advantages and disadvantages... 6.5 CR is longer range, better G1/G4 numbers, however .308 delivers more power and is much more available in a SHTF situation. My use case currently is pinging steel or punching holes in paper, but that may expand to hunting.
Any thoughts from someone with more experience than I would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks much!
6.5 Creedmoor is just as available these days and priced about the same as 308. It’s also a more than capable hunting round. The ONLY reason to consider a 308 over a 6.5 IMO is barrel life. A 308 barrel will last 2-3 times as long as a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. Of course, by the time you’ve shot out a barrel you’ve spent so much on ammo that the cost of a barrel isn’t a big deal.
Edit to add, I say this as someone who owns a Tikka 6.5 Creedmoor and half a dozen 308s that I almost never shoot anymore.
This ^^^^
Yes 308 might be more ubiquitous in general but not the precision ammo, where most of the 6.5 stuff out there is either precision or hunting ammo. 6.5 was developed as a long range precision cartridge, 308 was first developed as a battle rifle and general use cartridge. But you can't go wrong with either, pick your poison. However I think TheJeanyus has it right.
Wow, that is an amazing catch, I would have never noticed that.
No but locked loaded does pretty good prices. Bought 2 guns through them.
I took off another Tikka barrel from a Tac A1 action. Minimal fuss, the key is prep work, patients, and torque.
1. Prep work: Once action and barrel are removed from the chassis hit the barrel joint inside the action and the outside of the action with penetrating oil like Kroil or WD40. Have the right tools, a Tikka action wrench is not enough to get a barrel off, for that job you need a wheeler action wrench that has flat sides. Make sure you got a good barrel vise and some rosin powder.
2. Patients: I like to sit the barrel vertically in a sink and let the oil soak in for days, turn the barrel the opposite direction and soak again for a day or two, let gravity help that oil seep into that joint, hit it several times with oil to make sure it's penetrated. Once the barrel is removed from the action you will notice the threads saturated in oil, it really gets in there if you give it time.
3. Torque: Once you are ready to take the barrel off make sure that the barrel is really snug in the barrel vise, use some cardboard as shims to avoid marring, and rosin sprinkled around will add to the grip the vice has on the barrel, you do not want slipping. Some extended heavy steel pipe that fits over the wheeler handle will be crucial and add to the torque you need in order to remove the barrel, i'm guessing it takes about 225-250 ft lbs to remove a tikka barrel, just a hunch. So make sure to have that cheater bar/pipe to add to that torque. Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though, card stock or business cards can be put in between the wrench flats and the action to avoid marring. Sometimes a wack with a rubber mallet can help add some shock to loosening things up.
Remember if you try to use an internal tikka action wrench to remove the barrel you could destroy the action if you use over 200ft lbs of force. A Tikka internal action wrench is great for putting barrels back on as you only need between 75-90ft lbs and that pressure is no danger to the action.
All these things combined and a tikka barrel will pop off, it's a little work but it avoids any cutting or need for a gun smith, and you get to keep your original barrel in tact.
1. Prep work: Once action and barrel are removed from the chassis hit the barrel joint inside the action and the outside of the action with penetrating oil like Kroil or WD40. Have the right tools, a Tikka action wrench is not enough to get a barrel off, for that job you need a wheeler action wrench that has flat sides. Make sure you got a good barrel vise and some rosin powder.
2. Patients: I like to sit the barrel vertically in a sink and let the oil soak in for days, turn the barrel the opposite direction and soak again for a day or two, let gravity help that oil seep into that joint, hit it several times with oil to make sure it's penetrated. Once the barrel is removed from the action you will notice the threads saturated in oil, it really gets in there if you give it time.
3. Torque: Once you are ready to take the barrel off make sure that the barrel is really snug in the barrel vise, use some cardboard as shims to avoid marring, and rosin sprinkled around will add to the grip the vice has on the barrel, you do not want slipping. Some extended heavy steel pipe that fits over the wheeler handle will be crucial and add to the torque you need in order to remove the barrel, i'm guessing it takes about 225-250 ft lbs to remove a tikka barrel, just a hunch. So make sure to have that cheater bar/pipe to add to that torque. Remember the flats of the Wheeler should be evenly torqued on to the flats of the action, not too tight though, card stock or business cards can be put in between the wrench flats and the action to avoid marring. Sometimes a wack with a rubber mallet can help add some shock to loosening things up.
Remember if you try to use an internal tikka action wrench to remove the barrel you could destroy the action if you use over 200ft lbs of force. A Tikka internal action wrench is great for putting barrels back on as you only need between 75-90ft lbs and that pressure is no danger to the action.
All these things combined and a tikka barrel will pop off, it's a little work but it avoids any cutting or need for a gun smith, and you get to keep your original barrel in tact.
How do you like the Midas trigger? I just ordered one after years of eyeing it and just not having a Tikka to put it on before now.
1st 2 groups out of my new CTR stainless factory stock, after 2 shots in the dirt and 3 on paper to get zeroed. Both of those are 5 round groups.
140gr Hornady bthp
Hornady brass
41.2gr of H4350
CCI 200s
2671 fps out of 24". Gonna bum0 up the charge but for inside 1200y or so this will do nicely. I am happy. Just waiting in the Whiskey 3 to show up now.
140gr Hornady bthp
Hornady brass
41.2gr of H4350
CCI 200s
2671 fps out of 24". Gonna bum0 up the charge but for inside 1200y or so this will do nicely. I am happy. Just waiting in the Whiskey 3 to show up now.
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