Advice on a silenced 308 gasser?

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

There is a wealth of disinformation out there and I've wasted a few thousand dollars trying to get a 308 AR running with a can. If you have a suppressed rifle with a low round count that you don't actually shoot, please don't chime in. I realize how rude that is, but I really don't want to blow more money on stuff that doesn't work but is photogenic.

In front of me, I have my DMPS G2 with an SLR adjustable gas block, Vltor A5 receiver extension, and 8.5oz heavy buffer. It does not work. I am not interested in fixing it. The adjustable gas block and the receiver extension with heavy buffer were both guaranteed to work, but $400 later the gun is exactly the same. I can find 50 threads of people saying they would work.

I've tried DPMS, DPMS G2, and Quentin Defense. I've bought aftermarket "DPMS pattern" receiver sets that do not accept DPMS pattern parts. I literally went to a DPMS crate and tried dozens of their receivers, uppers and lowers, and wasn't able to find two that worked together. I went to GAP and asked them about running a gasser with a can and they said don't bother, they don't recommend it.

Is there a modern gas gun in 308 that can function with a silencer? Have you actually done it?

I am in AZ, so I'm going to reach out to POF and see if I can test fire one of their units. It's sad to me that every gasser AR15 I've touched has worked perfectly, but not one 308 AR that worked at all.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

What is not working? What's the issue?

What suppressor do you have?

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

I get overpressure signs when using a can. It ruins the brass. I have 7 or 8 30 cal cans.

theLBC · Oct 2, 2021

we can't have them here, but many say they run a scar 20s without issues. i think it helps if you have a piston gun to start with and use a low backpressure suppressor that is made to work with semi or automatic weapons, like surefire. they won't be the quietest, but it should work.
obviously everyone can't get this particular suppressor, so they might run a smaller jet or even a new regulator that vents more gas.

gixxer822 · Oct 2, 2021

To do it correctly takes finesse. Timing the operation with proper gas just isn’t plug and play with these things. JP bolts are a must. At this point I prefer an undersized gas port to finish drilling it myself. I’m in Az also. I just put together another for myself and it’s been a process.

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

It feels like the gas ports are too close to the chamber on the rifles I've used. I'm trying to think if the locking lugs are the issue or the gas port is in the wrong location. It doesn't really matter, because this rifle will never work.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
I get overpressure signs when using a can. It ruins the brass. I have 7 or 8 30 cal cans.

So with the SLR have you closed the gas completely off then opened it up 1 click and fired 1 round at a time in a mag until the carrier locks back?

Google searching the dpms it looks like it has a long dwell length which is just horrible from the start for suppressed use.

Do you have any lower back pressure suppressors like a 762 rc2, sandman s, oss, or ?

If looking for a factory rifle, if it comes from the factory without an adjustable gas block I wouldn't bother unless you have an oss. It will be tuned for use without a can and you will need to do the same thing with adding a gas block or increasing buffer weight.

Personally I would build one off a Zev or Mega receiver set and handguard. Rifle length gas or longer depending how long you want your barrel. SLR or superlative gas block, JP fmos bcg, A2 tube and buffer. That is essentially my large frame build. Zev, proof research, jp fmos, slr adjustable gas, A2 tube with a kynshot large frame rifle length buffer, jp spring.

This is the layout of my 6.5cm zev build.

While I don't have thousands of rounds on it as this is a relatively newish build and current 6.5 ammo prices are ridiculous but I shoot it suppresed 100% of the time. Roughly 800 rounds, multiple ammo types. I've used my omega, Nomad and Nomad L. It's never malfunctioned. Consistent rearward ejection. Very pleasant smooth impulse.

I've helped a friend build a mega large frame 308 without any issue suppressed as well. Similar formula. JP bcg, adjustable gas, a2 buffer, jp spring, I can't remember the barrel but I think it was a Criterion rifle length 18".

I've had a guy at the range next to me with a suppressed large frame pws. Seemed to work quite well.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
It feels like the gas ports are too close to the chamber on the rifles I've used.

The dpms definitely looks that way. A good suppressor host has as short of a dwell length as possible. The long dwell length unlocks the bolt too early. Even adding mass and restricting gas it will be at a disadvantage vs a short dwell length host.

The Noveske N6 switchblock is probably a good factory option. It has a pretty short dwell length but there is limited adjustment with the switchblock. Something you could research.

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

I do have a low back pressure can, but it's big and heavy so I don't use it. I'm looking to do 16" and light weight. What I liked about the G2 was the size and weight. It was to be my hunting rife, because my bolt guns are telephone poles.

That Noveske is interesting, as it passes the eye test.

However, as I'm sitting here, it has hit me that I could keep my eyes out for a Win70 in 308, pick it up for $400, and it's a chop and thread away from a sweet 16" gun that I know would always work.

gixxer822 · Oct 2, 2021

The DPMS G2 pattern has even less compatible parts then other platforms. It’s very possible your adding parts that are for a gen1.
If you want me to take a look at it or meet up at cowtown sometime let me know.

gixxer822 · Oct 2, 2021

What’s your gas port size. I have a shit 18inch 308 BA barrel on it right now. My port was .081 and wouldn’t work until I drilled it to .093.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
I do have a low back pressure can, but it's big and heavy so I don't use it. I'm looking to do 16" and light weight. What I liked about the G2 was the size and weight. It was to be my hunting rife, because my bolt guns are telephone poles.

I'd definitely check with pof as you suggested earlier. Their set up is a 5 position gas piston and is very lightweight. Reliability suppressed, I have no idea. You can talk the them, search reviews or hopefully someone can chime in.

If I was building what you wanted.

The zev tech receiver set is pretty lightweight for a large frame. 21.5 oz.

https://criterionbarrels.com/produc...id-barrel-rifle-gas-stainless/?v=7516fd43adaa

Criterion 16" stainless rifle gas or you could look for another company with a 16" rifle gas with a lighter barrel.

Slr/superlative, Jp fmos enhanced bcg, A2 tube, JP tuned and polished extra power large frame rifle spring.

bfoosh006 · Oct 2, 2021

If I can ask... ( not trying to frustrate you ) what length gas system is on your GII ? And barrel length ? Ammo used ?

What recoil spring ?

Frankly, you have bought the expensive parts already.... a heavier recoil spring might be an asset. A heavier recoil spring would help keep the BCG locked a few milli-seconds longer, allowing for extraction at lower chamber pressure.

I understand you don't want to fix your GII, but I have had to tune every Large Frame AR I own.... even unsuppressed. And I have heavy recoil springs and buffer setup's, with Adj. GB's on all the various gas lengths and barrel lengths.

An AR in 308 can be a fussy beast parts wise and function wise just because of the lack of a Mil-Spec guideline for commonality of parts.

And your GII is even further on the fringe of "Large Frame" AR's using the .308.

And it is my understanding the DPMS Gen II's were over gassed from the factory.

I guess I am saying ... don't give up on the GII , yet.

The previous post about finessing is very true... and more so suppressed.

Just 2 cents worth of input.

And seriously sorry to hear of your frustrating problems.

Can you post pics of the abused brass ?

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

Looks like the gas port is about 9" down the 16" barrel. I tried a heavy buffer, longer buffer tube, full rifle spring, and adjustable gas block.

I tried m80, my 175 smk load, a lighter version of the 175 smk load, and my federal fusion hunting load.

As for the parts I used, they're all correct. It uses ar15 parts.

I threw the brass away.

It doesn't work. As I said, I must have read 50 threads that said swap AGB, buffer, spring. But that was all money right out the window.

JohnCarter17 · Oct 2, 2021

Are there any other signs on the brass aside from overpressure? Scratches?
Anything that might indicate a shitty reaming or finishing job on the chamber?

Actually, the other question is. With the can off, will the rifle function perfectly?
So its definitely a can/gas issue, not anything else in the build?

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

I had your issue with a Wilson combat intermediate gas Barrel.

Would go from not cycling to overgassed.
18" rifle gas was the cure.

Birddog6424 · Oct 2, 2021

I have a DPMS GII SASS I've ran suppressed for years. Just slapped a JP adjustable gas block on it and a silent capture spring.

I've also owned a custom built 308 & 6.5 Creedmoor gasser that I run with a can. Once its set up properly it shouldn't be an issue. I treat it like every other gas gun and just incrementally open the gas block till it locks back. And clean more often because its dirtier.

I would definitely ditch the heavy buffer. They aren't necessary. I run low mass BCGs and JP SCS in everything without issue.

db2000 · Oct 2, 2021

This setup works as verified by many.
Seekins SP10.
If you want to build or customize it choosing the right parts is crucial.

One example that works:
Seekins SP10 builders kit. Seekins safety.
Proof CF 18” 1:10 rifle gas. Superlative .850 AGB. JP full mass carrier and bolt. I have a Fail Zero full mass carrier and JP high pressure bolt (bolt is crucial for proper headspace with Proof).
Kaw Valley 5 oz AR10 (shorter) buffer.
Tubbs AR10 flat spring in mil spec A2 rifle tube.
Geissele SSA-E trigger and charging handle.
SiCo brake and .30 Omega can.
Hope that helps

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

I feel like the specific can is a bigger part of the equation than the other setup.

Look at Jays (pewscience) back pressure metrics.
A sandman k, oss, or vented Helios would help a lot.

I get the angst. Nothing is more frustrating than a malfunctioning gun.

GUNNER10 · Oct 2, 2021

I

Twinsen said:
I do have a low back pressure can, but it's big and heavy so I don't use it. I'm looking to do 16" and light weight. What I liked about the G2 was the size and weight. It was to be my hunting rife, because my bolt guns are telephone poles.

That Noveske is interesting, as it passes the eye test.

However, as I'm sitting here, it has hit me that I could keep my eyes out for a Win70 in 308, pick it up for $400, and it's a chop and thread away from a sweet 16" gun that I know would always work.

It all comes down to selecting the right tool for the job, you have the right can for your rifle but for some reason, you are throwing a bunch of time and money at getting it running with the wrong cans.

Ive been shooting large frame AR's suppressed for almost 15 years now and have never had to run an adjustable gas system. The only time that i experienced an issue was when I attempted to run a high pressure, full size Gemtech GMT-300WM on my 13.5 and 16 inch LMT MWS 308 barrels with their intermediate gas systems.. This was a can that caused zero issues on my 18 and 20 inch MWS barrels with rifle length gas system

This combination caused violent recoil as well as failures to feed. This issues were successfully addressed by picking up a low pressure Dead Air Sandman K.

Great can choice

Terrible can choice

With this being said, i think there are way too many good options out there to spend time and money messing around with a DPMS,

Daniel Defense DD5 8.6LBS
SR25 ACC 8lbs
LMT MWS with Light weight barrel 8.6lbs
Barret Rec 10 8.25lbs
FN Scar 17 8lbs
Sig 716I 8.5 lbs
POF revolution 7.3lbs

I would pick any one of these and match it with an appropriate can and just be done with it.

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

JohnCarter17 said:
Are there any other signs on the brass aside from overpressure? Scratches?
Anything that might indicate a shitty reaming or finishing job on the chamber?

Actually, the other question is. With the can off, will the rifle function perfectly?
So its definitely a can/gas issue, not anything else in the build?

I believe the main problem with the rifle was Freedom Group designed it. The second biggest problem was Freedom Group built it.

Rofl, I am salty. But hopefully I can get something else to run. I just looked for Win70s and they are dried up.

sinister · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
Looks like the gas port is about 9" down the 16" barrel. I tried a heavy buffer, longer buffer tube, full rifle spring, and adjustable gas block.

I tried m80, my 175 smk load, a lighter version of the 175 smk load, and my federal fusion hunting load.

As for the parts I used, they're all correct. It uses ar15 parts.

I threw the brass away.

It doesn't work. As I said, I must have read 50 threads that said swap AGB, buffer, spring. But that was all money right out the window.

Your first OBVIOUS problem is your gas system length -- a 9-inch mid-length.

Let's start by analyzing your entire system in macro. How long is your suppressor and how much gas volume does it hold?

Let's say it's 8 inches long -- you now have the equivalent of a 24-inch barrel, with your gas tap at only 9 inches from the base of the case (7 inches from the case mouth, vice further down, say at 12 inches for rifle, or 14 inches if you were to use a +2 gas tube). It's going to have hella high port pressure regardless your bullet weight, while chamber pressure is still increasing during your total burn-time curve. Heavier bullets are going to allow for a slightly longer burn, increasing both chamber and port pressures.

As the closed system pressurizes (and is still adding gas volume as the powder burns), your brass will be obturated against your chamber -- your rapidly-expanding gases are going to do their job, forcing the bolt carrier group to the rear to do its job of unlocking and primary extraction before or shortly after the bullet has cleared the suppressor end-cap. The BCG and extractor are going to do their job by trying to rip the rim off your case (doing ITS job of sealing gases inside your barrel) to extract and eject the empty.

Once the bullet clears the end-cap ("Un-corks") your in-bore pressure is instantly relieved and the brass will contract, relaxing its adhesion to the chamber, allowing extraction and ejection. Gas will escape from the two largest exits -- out the front of the gun, and out the chamber.

So -- regardless the make and model of your suppressor, you have the worst possible option for gas tube length for a suppressed big bore self-loader. A heavier carrier will help delay total time before unlocking as expanding gas has to do work getting your BCG and buffer from full stop to movement (laws of physics -- a body at rest tends to stay at rest) -- but gas tapped at 9 inches isn't going to stop, and the total BCG and buffer system is going to react to pressure the way its designed -- it doesn't care when it moves, whether the gas was tapped at 9 inches or at 14 -- it's going to move.

The only worse option you could have is a 7-inch carbine gas tube (this version):

Gasgun · Oct 2, 2021

I have a LMT MWS in .308. 16” SS barrel.
Other than a Geissele trigger, it is stone stock. No aftermarket springs, buffers, gas block or other horseshit.
I run a SureFire 762RC suppressor on it 100% of the time.
The gun runs smoothly, doesn’t abuse brass, ejects the cases at 3:00.
I’ve had the gun/suppressor combo for 9 years.
I have put thousands of rounds through it and taken it to a couple of rifle courses.
It has been flawlessly reliable.

The SureFire cans don’t get a lot of love on this site, but they are relatively light, robust and low back pressure.
They have minimal POI shift and the mounts are repeatable if you occasionally shoot unsuppressed.

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

Yeah. The rifles were hyped up and I assumed the design wasn't insanely poor. After seeing first hand all the mods people said would make it run were 0% effective and those people were 100% full of shit and liars talking out their ass, the short gas system is most likely the culprit. And the AGB probably lets some gas by when shut closed.

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

I've debated many times if a large frame is even worth screwing with now that Grendel's and Arc's are widespread.

Tikkas are hard to beat dollar for dollar in a hunting rig.

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

It wouldn't be hard to get a longer gas system barrel, and I bet it would fix your issues.

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

I just found a company that sells rifle gas 16" barrels for the g2 on bartlein blanks. Damnit. I don't have the tool for the handguard, a jig for the weird receiver, and hate the idea of trying to fix a remington product.

I'll see if a smith can do it for me.

Actually, I bet I call the barrel place and they quote me a 12 month wait.

Edit: even worse

Ravenworks · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
Yeah. The rifles were hyped up and I assumed the design wasn't insanely poor. After seeing first hand all the mods people said would make it run were 0% effective and those people were 100% full of shit and liars talking out their ass, the short gas system is most likely the culprit. And the AGB probably lets some gas by when shut closed.

View attachment 7713696

To be honest every time there's one of these threads it's like we have to waterboad the OP for information.

Sure you're frustrated been there done that.

How many rounds have you put through this thing?
Why not try getting it tuned/broken in without the suppressor first?

Why is it everyone else's fault for what you did?
If you want help fine,but don't blame everyone else.
Your buffer being 8.5oz is really not all that heavy in the grand scheme of things.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
Yeah. The rifles were hyped up and I assumed the design wasn't insanely poor. After seeing first hand all the mods people said would make it run were 0% effective and those people were 100% full of shit and liars talking out their ass, the short gas system is most likely the culprit. And the AGB probably lets some gas by when shut closed.

View attachment 7713696

I mean it's far from an ideal set up but it should be able to be made run. It still won't be a good host with the long dwell length though.

Does it function unsuppressed?

You tried closing the gas literally all the way and opened it one click at a time with just one round in the mag until it locks back?

Twinsen · Oct 2, 2021

Ravenworks said:
How many rounds have you put through this thing?
Why not try getting it tuned/broken in without the suppressor first?

What would that accomplish? It doesn't work with a can.

Ravenworks said:
Why is it everyone else's fault for what you did?

I did not manufacture it and the advice given was made up. If the short gas system is the problem, nobody else fixed theirs and they were lying. The vast, 99%+ majority of shooters never actually shoot and talk about their guns as if they do. I believed that sort of folk and it cost me $400. I resent them. I dunno how many people told me the fix was an AGB, but now I know not a single one had first hand experience with the platform and were guessing.

Clayman said:
You tried closing the gas literally all the way and opened it one click at a time with just one round in the mag until it locks back?

Yes. That is how you do it.

Sorry, guys. This is turning confrontational. Before the thread started it was confirmed the G2 doesn't work with a can. I'm not looking for troubleshooting advice on this rifle. This rifle. Is garbage.

FCS · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
Looks like the gas port is about 9" down the 16" barrel. I tried a heavy buffer, longer buffer tube, full rifle spring, and adjustable gas block.

I tried m80, my 175 smk load, a lighter version of the 175 smk load, and my federal fusion hunting load.

As for the parts I used, they're all correct. It uses ar15 parts.

I threw the brass away.

It doesn't work. As I said, I must have read 50 threads that said swap AGB, buffer, spring. But that was all money right out the window.

What propellant are you using?

What is preferred can for 16”, large frame gas gun?

Do you want a functional rifle or just want to vent?

DMPS, Gen 2 or not, 16” bbl’ed factory guns that I’ve been around have pretty much all been POS that required significant effort to make run well w/o a can.

FCS · Oct 2, 2021

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Intermediate length gas system on 16.5" barrel is going to fit your needs nicely. Rifle gas might be slightly better in terms of softer shooting, easier on brass but will be a bit more temperamental, narrower window of operation also.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
What would that accomplish? It doesn't work with a can.

I did not manufacture it and the advice given was made up. If the short gas system is the problem, nobody else fixed theirs and they were lying. The vast, 99%+ majority of shooters never actually shoot and talk about their guns as if they do. I believed that sort of folk and it cost me $400. I resent them. I dunno how many people told me the fix was an AGB, but now I know not a single one had first hand experience with the platform and were guessing.

Yes. That is how you do it.

Sorry, guys. This is turning confrontational. Before the thread started it was confirmed the G2 doesn't work with a can. I'm not looking for troubleshooting advice on this rifle. This rifle. Is garbage.

I understand you are frustrated and aren't looking to fix it I'm just curious is all.

And you are having pressure signs starting when? Before it locks back, only when it locks back?

I Google dpms g2 308 suppressed and came across this video. I skipped around. Starting at 7 minutes he starts shooting and you can see the gas problem. He said adding an H3 buffer solved it.

If all else fails and it runs unsuppressed just fine and you want to use that rifle you can buy an OSS HX-QD 762 Ti. It will not cause any back pressure issues

While it's not the g2 you can see a stock dpms lr308 with one cycling at 1:15. Rearward ejection. The video also details modifying the rifle from stock.

So yeah looking at a new rifle I'd research the pof, pws, noveske and a custom build (rifle length gas, adjustable gb, jp enhanced fmos, buffer & buffer tube choice is up to you but I like A2 with a jp enhanced spring). Some like the scs, A5(I do on 5.56), etc.

KAC and LMT make fantastic reliable stuff but if you aren't running a low back pressure suppresor you can have issues. Like @Gasgun is using an RC2 without issue because it's a great low back pressure can.

Clayman · Oct 2, 2021

FCS said:
.308/7.62 Ultramatch Barrels for Sale - Rainier Arms

Seize supremacy with Rainier Arms .308/7.62 Ultramatch Barrels. Select power, conquer - explore and excel!

www.rainierarms.com

Intermediate length gas system on 16.5" barrel is going to fit your needs nicely. Rifle gas might be slightly better in terms of softer shooting, easier on brass but will be a bit more temperamental, narrower window of operation also.

It depends on the suppressor being used. Suppressors being used add dwell length to a system. If it has low back pressure then intermediate should work nicely as you said. However if it's a high back pressure can you'll be glad you went rifle length. You'll definitely delay unlocking, get less gas in your face and be nicer on brass.

FCS · Oct 2, 2021

Clayman said:
It depends on the suppressor being used. Suppressors being used add dwell length to a system. If it has low back pressure then intermediate should work nicely as you said. However if it's a high back pressure can you'll be glad you went rifle length. You'll definitely delay unlocking, get less gas in your face and be nicer on brass.

Intermediate gas system barrel available now vs rifle gas system barrel who knows when; I'll take intermediate now.

IF the can is adding that much back pressure.....other was to address. Intermediate gas is still going to be vast improvement over factory G2 barrel and much shorter gas system. Rainier barrel can also be bought with a bleed off type gas block. Rifle gas might be better but rifle gas on 16.5" barrel is also going to be pretty darn close to suppressed only use. While not a bad thing, it becomes a thing. Been there, done that, it was a slightly different PITA to deal with.
Intermediate is going to be in fatter portion of the bell curve vs either the current short gas system in factory barrel or rifle gas on a 16" barrel. Extremes always come with a bit more nuance.

Propellant used, has a very noticeable effect on overall performance of system, if / how cycles.

OP hasn't mentioned propellant or desired can to be used. Plenty of variables to be accounted for yet.

Ronin_64 · Oct 2, 2021

I don't do serious project builds or Frankenstein guns unless I have a need or want for something different. Long ago bought a LaRue OBR and then the PredatOBR in .308 Win and run them with a Surefire can. No problems at all; suppressed or unsuppressed.

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

Even with my relatively low back pressure rugged razor, it was super hard to choke down the overgassing with my intermediate 16" Wilson combat barrel.

I'd wait for a rifle gas barrel.

Regarding the G2, if I'm not mistaken Wyoming arms builds exclusively on G2 frames and they run fine with the tbac cans which aren't low back pressure.

I really think a small rifle gas port is like 90% the solution, then tune with SLR or similar. Buffer weight comes last.

IME, the superlative blowoff is a joke, it's never enough even maxed out, then it halves the resolution of restricted mode. Avoid superlative.

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
What would that accomplish? It doesn't work with a can.

I did not manufacture it and the advice given was made up. If the short gas system is the problem, nobody else fixed theirs and they were lying. The vast, 99%+ majority of shooters never actually shoot and talk about their guns as if they do. I believed that sort of folk and it cost me $400. I resent them. I dunno how many people told me the fix was an AGB, but now I know not a single one had first hand experience with the platform and were guessing.

Yes. That is how you do it.

Sorry, guys. This is turning confrontational. Before the thread started it was confirmed the G2 doesn't work with a can. I'm not looking for troubleshooting advice on this rifle. This rifle. Is garbage.

I dropped a ton of time making mine work just because I'm a stubborn ass problem solver that hates being bested, but I'd tell 3 years ago me just to buy a grendel and a 16" Tikka tac A1 for tripod 308 duties.

I'd sell my large frame in a hurry if someone offered me cash on the spot, but at least I built my early Trump admin when stuff was cheap. The whole platform is an ass pain and kinda dumb vs a 6 arc or grendel.

db2000 · Oct 2, 2021

CaptArab said:
Even with my relatively low back pressure rugged razor, it was super hard to choke down the overgassing with my intermediate 16" Wilson combat barrel.

I'd wait for a rifle gas barrel.

Regarding the G2, if I'm not mistaken Wyoming arms builds exclusively on G2 frames and they run fine with the tbac cans which aren't low back pressure.

I really think a small rifle gas port is like 90% the solution, then tune with SLR or similar. Buffer weight comes last.

IME, the superlative blowoff is a joke, it's never enough even maxed out, then it halves the resolution of restricted mode. Avoid superlative.

Can you elaborate on the Superlative blocks. I have two and not sure I’m sold on the blow off feature or if it’s gimmicky. That’s not why I picked them so it’s kinda irrelevant to me but I’m curious where this info is from. Thanks

Asiparks · Oct 2, 2021

My can is 10 year old SRT Omega XL, made before high / low pressure was a thing . 2 stock 16 " POFs, ones is a 11 year old 308, the other is a 2 yr old lightweight 308 Revolution- both piston-and a stock LMT MWS, DI obviously. No AGBs or arsing around with buffers and springs- both function 100%. Read a ton on how the LMT was overgassed etc, but I'm about 1200 rounds in without the gun beating itself to shit and without me choking on gas.
POF's are great- function flawlessly- some stories about CS, but relative to the number of guns they've put out- very few. .The older 308 has had maybe 7k through it, the Revolution maybe 1200-1400 . Most of this ammo is mil surp or Wolf.

POF Revolution: any owners?

Not gonna knock how beautiful your rifle looks, because it looks flawless. I really want a rogue, I think it’s an awesome concept and would love to get one, espeacially at the price compared to other comparable offerings with uber exotic materials for a lot more $$$. Just extremely skeptical on...

www.snipershide.com

hlee · Oct 2, 2021

So, this isn’t an advice request thread. This is an OP cry-fest thread.

CaptArab · Oct 2, 2021

db2000 said:
Can you elaborate on the Superlative blocks. I have two and not sure I’m sold on the blow off feature or if it’s gimmicky. That’s not why I picked them so it’s kinda irrelevant to me but I’m curious where this info is from. Thanks

It just comes from my experience with three of them.

Blow off is nice in theory, but it never vented enough gas for my application- with half the clicks dedicated to blow off mode, the resolution in restriction mode is half as fine as the slr, meaning with SA I go from won't cycle to overgassed in one click.

If it works for you tho, ignore me and just rock it. If you just wanna take ejecting from 2 to 4 or whatever it's probably great.

db2000 · Oct 2, 2021

CaptArab said:
It just comes from my experience with three of them.

Blow off is nice in theory, but it never vented enough gas for my application- with half the clicks dedicated to blow off mode, the resolution in restriction mode is half as fine as the slr, meaning with SA I go from won't cycle to overgassed in one click.

If it works for you tho, ignore me and just rock it. If you just wanna take ejecting from 2 to 4 or whatever it's probably great.

Right on. Thanks for the clarification. It definitely changes ejection pattern. I’ve not shot it and played around with it enough to comment on recoil and blow back yet.

TonyTheTiger · Oct 2, 2021

Twinsen said:
The rifles were hyped up and I assumed the design wasn't insanely poor. After seeing first hand all the mods people said would make it run were 0% effective and those people were 100% full of shit and liars talking out their ass, the short gas system is most likely the culprit.

Twinsen said:
I did not manufacture it and the advice given was made up. If the short gas system is the problem, nobody else fixed theirs and they were lying. The vast, 99%+ majority of shooters never actually shoot and talk about their guns as if they do. I believed that sort of folk and it cost me $400. I resent them. I dunno how many people told me the fix was an AGB, but now I know not a single one had first hand experience with the platform and were guessing.
I'm not looking for troubleshooting advice on this rifle. This rifle. Is garbage.

Dang man. I hope no one here tries to help you. Have you considered the possibility that all the fixes those people suggested did in fact fix their issues, and you just have a particularly bad lemon specimen of an already poorly designed rifle?
If you're not here for advice, and you don't appear to be since you won't share any useful info, what are you here for?

TonyTheTiger · Oct 2, 2021

FCS said:
Rifle gas might be better but rifle gas on 16.5" barrel is also going to be pretty darn close to suppressed only use. While not a bad thing, it becomes a thing. Been there, done that, it was a slightly different PITA to deal with.
Intermediate is going to be in fatter portion of the bell curve vs either the current short gas system in factory barrel or rifle gas on a 16" barrel. Extremes always come with a bit more nuance.

It is worth noting that Sig is making a 16" RLGS rifle for standard issue in India. I don't know much more than that about it because I can't bring myself to care about large frame guns, but I can't imagine India will be issuing suppressors or that they would want a rifle on the very edge of function.

Vivacious Stallion · Oct 3, 2021

hlee said:
So, this isn’t an advice request thread. This is an OP cry-fest thread.

Twinsen · Oct 3, 2021

TonyTheTiger said:
If you're not here for advice, and you don't appear to be since you won't share any useful info, what are you here for?

I posted here for advice on a 308 AR platform, like I said several times. A bunch of people threw out suggestions and helped me. Some people wanted to diagnose my rifle, and I did not, but I gave them info about it anyway.

Whatever you're going through, you'll be ok. Cheer up, tiger.

hlee said:
So, this isn’t an advice request thread. This is an OP cry-fest thread.

Sorry to hear you had a bad day. Cheer up, sport.

TonyTheTiger · Oct 3, 2021

Twinsen said:
Whatever you're going through, you'll be ok. Cheer up, tiger.

I'm adequately cheerful. At least I've never got mad at strangers on the internet for offering free advice.

Twinsen · Oct 4, 2021

TonyTheTiger said:
I'm adequately cheerful. At least I've never got mad at strangers on the internet for offering free advice.

What thread did that happen in?

Or are you suggesting your post was helpful?

Vivacious Stallion · Oct 4, 2021

What are you expecting to get out of this thread? People have given their opinions and generally tried to be helpful, even as you speak so nicely of other people who tried to help you. You're avoiding giving details about things like what silencer in particular you are wanting to use/is giving you issues? Also, does the gun show pressure signs with the low backpressure cans you own as well or only the others? Obviously there are plenty of large frame guns that run suppressed, all you have to do is look around the other threads on here and the internet. If you are using a poor choice of can for semi autos that is obviously going to exacerbate your issues with any system.

Having trouble using the site?

Advice on a silenced 308 gasser?

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