I've picked up a Ruger M77 LRT in 6.5 PRC. I'm breaking it in and zeroing it today and I'm curious if its better to zero it at 200 yrds since the scope rail is canted at 20 M.O.A. ? Or is is fine to zero at 100?
100 or 200 yrd zero
- Thread starter kiloechoxray
- Start date
For hunting, I prefer a 200yd zero. It's off at 100yd by not enough to matter, and better at 300yd than a 100yd zero (at 300 I can hold top of shoulder, and the hit will be pretty effective). It's just somewhat less intuitive. I'm not likely to risk a shot beyond 300yd anyway.
For calculating/applying dope for shooting paper at multiple distances, the 200yd zero requires less scope adjustment at the other distances. If I hold an inch or two under at 100yd; it's still likely to hit an "X". My drop charts specify the hold under at 100yd pretty neatly.
Zeroing at 100yd makes dope application somewhat more intuitive.
...And, I'm thinking the base is sloped at 20MOA, and not canted.
Greg
For calculating/applying dope for shooting paper at multiple distances, the 200yd zero requires less scope adjustment at the other distances. If I hold an inch or two under at 100yd; it's still likely to hit an "X". My drop charts specify the hold under at 100yd pretty neatly.
Zeroing at 100yd makes dope application somewhat more intuitive.
...And, I'm thinking the base is sloped at 20MOA, and not canted.
Greg
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I'm with the resident elder fart as far as my hunting rigs go, 200 yd zero it is. At that distance it keeps me on fur out to about 320 per my caliber choice. Pretty much means about .2 high at 100 so this is what I look for when I can only confirm zero at 100 and for whatever reason can't shoot to 200 on that particular day.
My bolt guns oddly enough I use a 100 yd zero. So it's really pretty much what flavor you decide.
Your 20 moa rail will be happy with whatever choice you make.
My bolt guns oddly enough I use a 100 yd zero. So it's really pretty much what flavor you decide.
Your 20 moa rail will be happy with whatever choice you make.
I suppose it depends what you want to do with it. Do you want to hunt with it and maximize your Point Blank Range or do you want to compete with it? The 20 MOA base doesn’t really have anything to do with it other than to add to the amount of elevation you have left to dial. Most competitive shooters will zero at 100 yards because there are less atmospheric factors in play at that distance. Humidity, temperature, altitude, and wind don’t matter as much at that distance. Plus, once zeroed at 100, all their holds will be hold overs with no hold unders.
Yes, I chart for a 200yd zero, then zero to the 100yd higher impact at 100yd. I then confirm the chart at 300. Come-ups conform to the chart for the 200yd zero.
Here in the SE AZ High Desert, altitude can mess with trajectories; my home altitude is 4350Ft ASL. But I've also shot comp at 4000 and 1800 here as well.
Greg
Here in the SE AZ High Desert, altitude can mess with trajectories; my home altitude is 4350Ft ASL. But I've also shot comp at 4000 and 1800 here as well.
Greg
Zero at 100 yards if you have a scope that is easily dialed. If you want a 200 yard zero to go hunting, dial up your elevation for 200 yards and go hunting.
Literally the only reason to go with a 200 yard zero is if you have a scope that can't easily be adjusted and you're happy with minute of deer and want to hold on fur for your shots.
Literally the only reason to go with a 200 yard zero is if you have a scope that can't easily be adjusted and you're happy with minute of deer and want to hold on fur for your shots.
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