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16” AR 10 in .308

Greg0326

Regular Dude
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Minuteman
Feb 25, 2017
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Vista, CA
Building a fun truck gun I can throw a can and keep pretty compact. I’ve got a 1/10 twist 16” intermediate gas Criterion chambered by Craddock Precision coming in. What do you guys think for bullet weights? Slapping steel mostly and an occasional pig outting. 800 yards and in.
 
Have 2 AR10s in 308.... both are really consistent with 168 SMK, 165 GK, and 165 SST. Taken both out to 600 yards and had fun doing it! Used LC or WIN/BH brass, Varget or TAC, and BR2 primers!
 
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I worked up a load with 155 TMK's over some Varget for my 16" Ultramatch. I really enjoy having the shorter barrel, it makes it much handier. I live in coastal NC though and the longest shot I have is 500yds, so unfortunately that's as far as I have taken it out to.
 
Try the FGMM both 168 and 175's and see what groups best. Either will work for pigs. My RFB with either will hammer a hog at 250+ yards and rides behind the seat at all times. NF unimount with a NXS 2.5-10x42 makes it seem easy.
 
My biggest suggestion would be that you go with an adjustable gas block for your truck gun. It will allow you to tune down the gas to go easy on your brass for reloading and solve a lot of AR 10 cycleing issues that crop up when putting together a rifle from different manufacturers parts.
 
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I have a 16” 7.62 gasser and I have great luck with Federal GMM 168’s.
My buddy clowns me for shooting 168’s and not 175’s, but the rifle wears a 4-14 NF SHV F1, and is pretty solid out to 800 or so. That’s not a bad poke with a 16” gasser in .308/7.62.
Truth is, your gun will tell you what it likes. 155’s will give you the velocity, but the 175’s will maybe be better in wind. I choose to split the difference.

If I need more than that, I’m going to my GAP-10 in a different caliber. ?
 
Recently purchased a 16.5" POF olde school DI P308. With the 5R 1-10 barrel I'm told they do well with match loads. I'm hoping to get 1.5 moa out of quality milsurp since I will probably shoot a lot of it. At some point I may handload some of my own as well. I have a great buy on some Speer L/E gold dots in 150 and 168 that I am curious about. They have a reputation for accuracy and terminal performance although giving up ballistics at longer ranges.
 
Good advice and though I don't have a can, I plan to swap the tripple port brake for a flash hider when I have tuned the buffer and gas system a bit. I'm betting it will be softer shooting than my James River Armory M14 which is actually pretty soft shooting for a non compensated rifle (and wearing a steel butt plate). Of course, brakes can be seductive if you can live with them - lol.
Keep the can on it, 16" .308s can be pretty brutal with muzzle blast, especially if you run a brake.
 
What are some powders you guys are working with and how hard is the platform as a whole on the brass? Would it be worth investing in decent quality SRP brass? (Alpha, Lapua)
 
I have been thinking about the same thing for my 6.5 Creedmoor's. My thought: no, I'll get the cheapest brass I can find of known quality.

In a .308 you can probably find once fired Lake City brass and go to town. Toss them after 5-8 reloads because you'll be full length resizing and dealing with neck dings.

If you spend time on prep and load development, you should be able to get very good accuracy without spending a ton on brass.

You might get Lapua brass to last longer but I don't think it will pay off.
 
I use L/C brass that is prepped or buy American Eagle brass at Cabela's. I am having a good time using Varget, TAC, or CFE 223 powder. My current FGMM clone with 168 grain SMK is averageing 2460 FPS with an SD in the single digets. 168 and 175 SMKs and 165 GKs work very well in my rifles.
 
"Recently purchased a 16.5" POF olde school DI P308. With the 5R 1-10 barrel I'm told they do well with match loads. I'm hoping to get 1.5 moa out of quality milsurp since I will probably shoot a lot of it. At some point I may handload some of my own as well. I have a great buy on some Speer L/E gold dots in 150 and 168 that I am curious about. They have a reputation for accuracy and terminal performance although giving up ballistics at longer ranges.[/QUOTE]

I believe all the true 5R's are 1/11.25 twist but maybe not. Anyway, some of those do really well with 175's. I wouldn't use Lapua brass for a gas gun. Decent quality brass for 4-5 loadings and the primer pocket is probably shot or other wear/tear. Just my .02.
 
...FWIW, 16" Hanson Ballistic Advantage, SLR Adjustable gas block, Aero Precision carbine buffer system, Aero upper & lower gives the following results:

Factory:
MAGTECH 150gn FMJ = 2545 FPS avg.
FGGM 168 = 2503 FPS avg.
Federal XM80 = 2671 FPS avg.

Handloads:

LC Brass, WLR primers, AR-Comp (43.6), HDY 155 OTM BTHP, COAL 2.280 = 2663 FPS avg.
LC Brass, WLR primers, 8208XBR (42), HDY 155 OTM BTHP, COAL 2.785, CBOT 2.195, 2543 FPS avg.
LC Brass, WLR primers, AR-Comp (41.5), HDY 168 OTM BTHP, COAL 2.280 = 2481 FPS avg.
LC Brass, WLR primers, AR-Comp (40.5), HDY 178 OTM BTHP, COAL 2.280 = 2416 FPS avg.

NOTE: I could probably go hotter, but accuracy @100 is good with these, sub-MOA. Powders used are the ones I have the most of and can use for .223/5.56 loads as well.
 
If the FGMM 168/175's shoot well for you; try the fired brass with CCI 200, 168SMK, and 42.0-42.2gr of IMR-4064.

This is actually my 175gr 24" bolt gun load. For your application, there is no need to drive the bullet at peak velocity.

For hunting, substitute the 165SGK.

I reserve the 175SMK/180SGK for longer barrels.

The Starline .308 brass at Midway isn't bad to look at, will be loading up my first batch of it very soon.

Greg