If my scope says 1cm @ 1000m how much (in decimal inches) is that at 100yds? .36"? Dang Leupold scope I bought is in CM not MOA uggg!
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1cm @ 100M
- Thread starter 7mm-08 Freak
- Start date
No I need Inches or fraction of an inch. I think on click will give me .36" of elevation but i am not sure.
.36” would be 1/10 MIL at 100 yards. Or 3.6” at 1,000 yards per click. Which is likely what your scope is. If it’s MIL
So,
.36” per click or 1/10 Mil at 100 yards
3.6” per one Mil at 100 yards
3.6” per on click or 1/10 Mil at 1,000
36” per one Mil at 1,000
If it adjusts 1 cm per click at 1,000 then mount a socket drive for your impact to turn that bitch
So,
.36” per click or 1/10 Mil at 100 yards
3.6” per one Mil at 100 yards
3.6” per on click or 1/10 Mil at 1,000
36” per one Mil at 1,000
If it adjusts 1 cm per click at 1,000 then mount a socket drive for your impact to turn that bitch
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Milliradian is just 1/1000. So 1” at 1000”, 1 foot at 1000 ft, 1cm at 1000cm, 1 mile at 1000 miles.
You don’t need inches. Forget any linear. It’s a mil scope. You need to adjust use the reticle as a ruler.
Yes you lucked out and got a mil scope.
1 mil = 1 yard (36”) @ 1000 yards
.1 mil = 1/10 yard (3.6”) @ 1000 yards
.1 mil = .36” @ 100yards
Also works same in meters
1 mil = 1 meter @ 1000 meters and so on.
Well then use the numbers above but why did you buy a scope with only a duplex reticle?
Cause I was in a hurry out of state on a hunt and didn’t notice it. Had to have a scope after mine was torn up on the plane. Gun was beat up too. Wound up using the guides gun…It’s a Leupold part #175834. 3-15X56 super bright but limited use of the elevation knob. Took it out of the box today and stuck it on a gun and noticed it was mil and I’m like oh crap. It on a hunting gun 16” bbl 6.5cm (Dont laugh) I’ll never shoot over 3-400 yds at the most. Just hoping I can make it work for that. Only has 57” or vertical adjustment if I use .36” per click.
This is the reticle. No using it for mils. One red dot right in the middle. That’s it. https://www.leupold.com/vx-5hd-3-15x56-cds-zl2-side-focus-metric-illum-firedot-4-fine-riflescope
Attachments
VX-5HD 3-15x56 CDS-ZL2 Side Focus Metric Illum. FireDot 4 Fine
Let there be light! The VX®-5HD 3-15x56mm gives you all the flexibility of its 44mm counterpart, but with the 56mm objective bell, it maximizes as much exit pupil light as your eye can handle. From the mountains, to the open plains, and to range day, this scope has the ability to dominate them all.
www.leupold.com
Jeez this hurts my head. You have a mil scope. One cm at 1000 meters is .1 militarism. So use mils.
Get a ballistic calculator (Geoballistics which uses the Jbm engine) and enter your info and use that to dial your scopes mil turret in mils.
If you are confused about dialing your scope at distance it’s due to trying to do so in inches.
If you are simply trying to get it zeroed on blank paper and for some reason can’t just look through the scope and at the same time adjust point of aim to the point of impact and have to stand above it looking down upon the scope then ~.3 mils is 1” at 100 yards in the crudest form possible.
Get a ballistic calculator (Geoballistics which uses the Jbm engine) and enter your info and use that to dial your scopes mil turret in mils.
If you are confused about dialing your scope at distance it’s due to trying to do so in inches.
If you are simply trying to get it zeroed on blank paper and for some reason can’t just look through the scope and at the same time adjust point of aim to the point of impact and have to stand above it looking down upon the scope then ~.3 mils is 1” at 100 yards in the crudest form possible.
Well got to work with it then. As mentioned it’s .36” at 100 so easy way is .3 mils is about an inch for zeroing. Once zeroed just use a good program and dial on the mils it says.
That’s an awesome scope for hunting. Perfect for your application.
Just remember each .1mil adjustment will equal
.36” at 100 yard
That is if you don’t care to learn any more about mils than that.
I can get it on paper at 25 just by looking down the barrel and moving the scope to get close move it out to 100 that’s not a problem I just don’t want to waste a bunch of ammunition even if they are hand loads they still cost money and time to load. I’ll make a chart in 50yd increments stick in in the cheek bag. I just wanted to get close and know that what a click is. Isn’t my first rodeo but it is my first Mil adjustable scope with a non-mil reticle. Sorry to give you a headache I was just having trouble with the math.
Yeah that’s pretty muchly what it’s gonna be a short range deer pig hunting gun nothing fancy I am probably a little overkill on the scope but I would rather have too much scope than not enough. Appreciate everybody giving me some input. Sometimes when you make a mistake and purchase something then you can’t return it you just have to work with it and that’s where I’m at on this.
If you multiple the inch measurement by 2.54 you'll get cm which is your clicks at 100m.
Multiply the inches by 2.78 will give you the conversion for zeroing at 100yards, eg the result will be the number of clicks to dial.
Multiply the inches by 2.78 will give you the conversion for zeroing at 100yards, eg the result will be the number of clicks to dial.
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I believe your Math is incorrect sir. I believe it should be .36” per click.
If you have a sled, this is a great time to use it.
1)Mount the rifle, aim for target center at 100 yards (or meters), pull the trigger. Don't cycle the bolt.
2)Again aim for target center but this time be very careful to not disturb the rifle once on target. Carefully adjust the crosshair to be dead nuts on the bullet hole from Step 1. Cycle the bolt.
3)Repeat this process 2-3 more times and you will be very zero'd.
Its the same thing.
For example:
If your first sighter shot is 2" high, either multiply 2" by 2.78, or divide 2" by .36 to get the number of clicks required.
All this is only true for 100yards, if you zero at any other distance the click value will be completely different.
Just for reference scopes labeled 1cm/100m are a common European way of marking a Milliradian scope and a lot of older S&B scopes came labeled that way.
If you were using the metric system instead of the imperial system, you wouldn't have even had to ask about calculations to convert each mark to linear reference assuming known distance. (As far as the scope internals work, that is, actual bullet ballistics would still need to be taken into account).
If you were using the metric system instead of the imperial system, you wouldn't have even had to ask about calculations to convert each mark to linear reference assuming known distance. (As far as the scope internals work, that is, actual bullet ballistics would still need to be taken into account).
Or just do it the old school way.
Pull bolt
look down barrel, make sure you see the center of the target through the barrel
check that the exact center mark of the target is in the center of the scope crosshairs
Put in bolt while keeping the rifle very steady so it doesn't move.
Take shot
Line rifle back up so that scope is perfectly lined up on the center mark of the target.
Make sure rifle is being held very steady so it can't move as you slowly adjust the windage and elevation knobs on the scope to bring the crosshairs to where the actual bullet hole is.
Once done, aim for the exact center of the target again and take the shot and see if you are spot on or if you need a touch more adjustment.
I've done that for plenty of rifles and normally need only 3 shots to have the zero at 100 yards pretty much perfectly locked in.
Then use your ballistic tables or ballistic calculator to work out the settings for any other distance and then verify them with a couple shots.
Since the op mentions they are hand loading, I assume they have a chronograph or already know the exact muzzle speed their bullets are coming out of their barrel at.
The shortcut method to adjust when you have no clue,
.3 Mils (CM) = 1" at 100,
On the reticle, how we would help the military guys with mixed systems was to go,
.25 Mils = 1 MOA on the scope
So, .25 = 1, .5 = 2 MOA and .75 Mils = 3, and 1 Mil = 4, it's quick and will get you there well enough until you figure out how to speak both languages.
.3 Mils (CM) = 1" at 100,
On the reticle, how we would help the military guys with mixed systems was to go,
.25 Mils = 1 MOA on the scope
So, .25 = 1, .5 = 2 MOA and .75 Mils = 3, and 1 Mil = 4, it's quick and will get you there well enough until you figure out how to speak both languages.
The scope doesn’t have marks on the reticle it only has one crosshair so your point is moot.
I do not have a sled don’t want one sandbags are all I’ve ever used.
I believe that’s the reply I was looking for right there. I’ve come to the realization after reading all of the replies three clicks is going to be roughly an inch at 100yds. That should get me on paper without wasting a lot of ammunition after looking down the barrel and then looking to see where the crosshairs are without moving the gun. After I get it sighted in at 100yds I’ll move the 200 300 400 and 500yd targets and make a chart and we can put this thread to bed LOL!!! Again thank you for everybody for replying I was just trying to save a little ammunition and a little time trying to figure out what each click is at 100 yards.
I’ve got a Magneatospeed and I’ll worry about numbers after I get it sighted In. This is not going to be a long range weapon it’s gonna be about 100 to 300 yard deer rifle at the farthest probably 500 on a rare occasion I’ve already got all the stuff I don’t wanna start all over I’m just gonna work with what I have Albeit not optimum set up it’ll put meat in the freezer.
You can apply the method using bags or a bipod or any other dreamt up method of holding the rifle still as you dial the turrets.
I was referring to the marks on the adjustment dials,
(Which I thought would obvious since the reticle we were working with was posted).
Now if you want to get all OCD about what to call the various marking schemes on a wide array of old and new European and american scopes many times where there is not even numbers just simply lines or dots, enjoy yourself, but marks works pretty good as a descriptor.
I have that app. its great for measuring group size and calculation drop at given ranges but I still want to know how much one click on the knobs are. It has been answered many times above
You’re probably right. I have to be honest. I have that elevation knob and kind of drives me nuts not to use it. I had a friend that told me one time that they call those a miss knob and I said what knob and he said a “miss” knob because when you turn that knob it’s going to cause you to miss. I thought that was kind of funny. Most of my shootings gonna be 300 or under occasionally will stretch it out to five just goofing around shooting pigs off of a wheat field. I just don’t have a lot of confidence in that 6.5 Creedmoor past 500 yards I personally feel it’s a little anemic for big game at long range. I’m sure I’ll get lit up with a bunch of hateful replies but that’s just my opinion. If I wanna stretch it out there I’ll usually take my 280 or something similar with a scope in MOA that I am comfortable with turning the miss knob.
I believe I do but that is relative. However, none of them ask stupid questions
It’s not a miss knob. It’s simply a scope that has turrets that are manufactured to adjust .1 of a milliradian.
It’s a mil scope.
That’s been beat to death pretty well.
BUT, you can get a custom dial for that turret from leupold I believe. It works pretty good for big game hunting out to 5 or 6 hundred yards.
Than simply range the victim and turn the miss dial so you DONT miss.
The guy that referred to the dial being a miss knob was being sarcastic as most people don’t know how to use the dial and it would cause them to miss. He’s not referring to people that actually know how to do it. Yes I thought I would get a hold of Leupold after I get some accurate numbers on how fast an accurate load is shooting and have them make me a custom knob for the elevation. I don’t think that gun with the short barrel that it has is going to be a long range affair but it would be nice to know how to dope it if I ever wanted to. All the rest of mine are MOA. I am perfectly capable of doping them.
He was correct honestly. You get that adrenaline flowing and have a few seconds to get a shot off. It’s near dusk half the time and now you’re spinning a knob you don’t adjust on the fly frequently or proficiently on a regular basis, you’re asking for a mistake.
When it’s necessary, it’s necessary but better not risk it when holding a few inches high has worked for decades.
