I'm finally getting some money saved up for my first precision rifle setup. I plan to have about $4000 saved up in the end, but I'd like to spend $1800-$2400 on it on either a used or new Nightforce FFP 3-15x or even a used S&B or Premier off the For Sale section here. Setting aside $150-$250 for rings/base, that leaves me with roughtly a limit of $2000 for the rifle. I realize I am only a weekend shooter so while DBM would be nice, it seems to be an unnessary expense unless I liked the AICS stock. I also don't find long barrels such as 26" necessary, and I'd actually prefer the shorter 20" barrels available. I also doubt I'll be suppressing the rifle any time soon so the added expense of the AAC-SD over the Tactical doesn't seem to be worthwhile. I will also be shooting primarily Federal 168gr gold medal match until I save up enough brass from all my guns to make it worthwhile to learn to reload.
I've done a lot of research and it seems the presiding opinion is the Remington 700P (even the LTR version) and 5R are great out of the box for sub MOA, but to go with a SPS Tactical or AAC-SD if I'll be replacing the stock immediately. It seems the most common alternative to the plastic Hogue stock are McMillan stocks that can cost as much as a brand new 700P rifle itself. I see myself shooting off bipod and rear squeeze bag most of the time so I have no idea if these premium stocks would be utilized efficiently by a novice shooter. And does bedding the factory stocks for 700Ps and 5Rs improve their accuracy? Or are they properly seated from the factory? Are these factory stocks still not satisfactory? I see several takeoff stocks for sale every now and then, and it makes me question why they never bought a cheaper SPS model to begin with.
There are many great gunsmiths that are favored by the SH community. Many of them offer bedding and action truing services. Others have suggested going with custom actions if I'll be starting a new build, but the price difference seems to be quite extraordinary. A Surgeon RSR costs in excess of $800, again the cost of a new 700P, and that doesn't factor in costs of a trigger, stock, bottom metal, or the roughly $600 to put in place a match grade barrel to it. It seems the only way I could afford a custom action would be to spend less on the stock itself, which leads back to the last question I had.
Lastly... just how good/bad are factory Remington barrels? From what I can gather, it's a run of the luck affair with the majority ending around .75MOA from what I can glean from searching the Hide. After truing the action it seems many see groups lower than .50MOA and after asking some reputable gunsmiths, they tell me .25 groups are attainable with match grade barrels. Do I have that picture roughly correct? And is it true that .308 barrels have a peak barrel life of roughly 2,000 rounds before accuracy degradation becomes noticeable?
I'll try to make my questions more coherent with a list.
1. How are the factory stocks for the 700P and 5R?
2. Do you recommend bedding these factory stocks to improve the rifle's accuracy?
3. What is the significant difference between McMillan A series stocks compared to say their HTG stocks which are several hundred dollars less?
4. Is it more worthwhile to immediately true the action off a regular Remington and build around it, or should I build around a custom action?
5. Barrel life for stock and match grade barrels?
6. Why are bolt installations/modifications so popular? Are the regular Remington 700 bolts that unwieldy?
Here are some quick build proposals with some price I have found.
Setup #1.
Remington 700 SPS Tactical $550
Getting the action trued. $250
McMillan A5 or similar stock. $800
Having a smith bed the stock. $250
Getting new trigger. Roughly $250
Total. $2100
(Hopefully I can sell the SPS Tactical stock for $50ish, and $50 overboard isn't too bad, especially if I can figure out how to install the trigger myself. Seems like a guaranteed .50MOA rifle that will last me for years until I shoot the barrel out.)
Setup #2.
Remington 700 SPS Tactical $550
Getting action trued. $250
Match barrel/installation $600
HS, Bell Carlson, or even
a McMillan HTG $400
Bedding job. $250
Total. $2050
(Maybe I can sell the Hogue stock again and possibly the factory barrel for some more cash back. Any idea how much a factory takeoff barrel would net me? I may be able to still have some cash left to install an aftermarket trigger on my own. The rifle may shoot .25MOA or better)
Setup #3.
Surgeon RSR $850
Match Barrel/Installation $600
Trigger. $250
Remington bottom metal cost? $50?
HS, Bell Carlson, or even
a McMillan HTG $400
Bedding. $250
Total. $2400
(Obviously over my budget alotted budget unless I find a nicely priced used Nightforce. I may be able to shave $100 off by installing the trigger on my own. Seems like it can also leave me with the option to easily add DBM later on my own. Not sure if this fully custom setup would even make a noticeable improvement over the other 2 setups already listed.)
Setup #4.
Remington 700P $850
Stock Bedding. $250
Action Truing. $250
Trigger job. $250
Bolt knob mod? $100
Total. $1700
(Seems like this rifle offers the best bang for buck. I guess this setup is all dependent on your opinions over the factory stock. I could go with Setup #1 or #2 as an equivalent alternative, but aftermarket stocks are pricier.)
...Edit.
And several of these build ideas never takes into account potential costs such as duracoating. Unless I somehow like having certain parts black and others stainless lol.
Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy post. All opinions will be appreciated.
I've done a lot of research and it seems the presiding opinion is the Remington 700P (even the LTR version) and 5R are great out of the box for sub MOA, but to go with a SPS Tactical or AAC-SD if I'll be replacing the stock immediately. It seems the most common alternative to the plastic Hogue stock are McMillan stocks that can cost as much as a brand new 700P rifle itself. I see myself shooting off bipod and rear squeeze bag most of the time so I have no idea if these premium stocks would be utilized efficiently by a novice shooter. And does bedding the factory stocks for 700Ps and 5Rs improve their accuracy? Or are they properly seated from the factory? Are these factory stocks still not satisfactory? I see several takeoff stocks for sale every now and then, and it makes me question why they never bought a cheaper SPS model to begin with.
There are many great gunsmiths that are favored by the SH community. Many of them offer bedding and action truing services. Others have suggested going with custom actions if I'll be starting a new build, but the price difference seems to be quite extraordinary. A Surgeon RSR costs in excess of $800, again the cost of a new 700P, and that doesn't factor in costs of a trigger, stock, bottom metal, or the roughly $600 to put in place a match grade barrel to it. It seems the only way I could afford a custom action would be to spend less on the stock itself, which leads back to the last question I had.
Lastly... just how good/bad are factory Remington barrels? From what I can gather, it's a run of the luck affair with the majority ending around .75MOA from what I can glean from searching the Hide. After truing the action it seems many see groups lower than .50MOA and after asking some reputable gunsmiths, they tell me .25 groups are attainable with match grade barrels. Do I have that picture roughly correct? And is it true that .308 barrels have a peak barrel life of roughly 2,000 rounds before accuracy degradation becomes noticeable?
I'll try to make my questions more coherent with a list.
1. How are the factory stocks for the 700P and 5R?
2. Do you recommend bedding these factory stocks to improve the rifle's accuracy?
3. What is the significant difference between McMillan A series stocks compared to say their HTG stocks which are several hundred dollars less?
4. Is it more worthwhile to immediately true the action off a regular Remington and build around it, or should I build around a custom action?
5. Barrel life for stock and match grade barrels?
6. Why are bolt installations/modifications so popular? Are the regular Remington 700 bolts that unwieldy?
Here are some quick build proposals with some price I have found.
Setup #1.
Remington 700 SPS Tactical $550
Getting the action trued. $250
McMillan A5 or similar stock. $800
Having a smith bed the stock. $250
Getting new trigger. Roughly $250
Total. $2100
(Hopefully I can sell the SPS Tactical stock for $50ish, and $50 overboard isn't too bad, especially if I can figure out how to install the trigger myself. Seems like a guaranteed .50MOA rifle that will last me for years until I shoot the barrel out.)
Setup #2.
Remington 700 SPS Tactical $550
Getting action trued. $250
Match barrel/installation $600
HS, Bell Carlson, or even
a McMillan HTG $400
Bedding job. $250
Total. $2050
(Maybe I can sell the Hogue stock again and possibly the factory barrel for some more cash back. Any idea how much a factory takeoff barrel would net me? I may be able to still have some cash left to install an aftermarket trigger on my own. The rifle may shoot .25MOA or better)
Setup #3.
Surgeon RSR $850
Match Barrel/Installation $600
Trigger. $250
Remington bottom metal cost? $50?
HS, Bell Carlson, or even
a McMillan HTG $400
Bedding. $250
Total. $2400
(Obviously over my budget alotted budget unless I find a nicely priced used Nightforce. I may be able to shave $100 off by installing the trigger on my own. Seems like it can also leave me with the option to easily add DBM later on my own. Not sure if this fully custom setup would even make a noticeable improvement over the other 2 setups already listed.)
Setup #4.
Remington 700P $850
Stock Bedding. $250
Action Truing. $250
Trigger job. $250
Bolt knob mod? $100
Total. $1700
(Seems like this rifle offers the best bang for buck. I guess this setup is all dependent on your opinions over the factory stock. I could go with Setup #1 or #2 as an equivalent alternative, but aftermarket stocks are pricier.)
...Edit.
And several of these build ideas never takes into account potential costs such as duracoating. Unless I somehow like having certain parts black and others stainless lol.
Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy post. All opinions will be appreciated.