For those of you who haven't thought about how bullets are made, here is a short bit. You start with a jacket shaped like a straight-sided drinking glass. The jacket sides taper, thicker at the bottom, thinner at the top.
Step 1: seat a lead core into the jacket. The punch is sized so that it is a perfect fit to the jacket when the core is seated - that is, no lead seeps around the edges and the punch doesn't cut into the jacket. I haven't made boat-tail bullets. That said, I'm thinking that there may be a "form the boat tail" die with a special punch or the seater die has the boat-tail shape.
Step 2: run the "drinking glass" into a point-up die. This forms the nose of the bullet, the top edge gets squeezed into that small point you see.
Suppose that the jacket is 1.2 inches long. Think about the jacket material 1 inch above the base. When you point up, that jacket material is pushed toward the long axis of the bullet. Now think about the tip of the bullet. When the top edge of the jacket is forced into the point. All of the jacket above the bullet shank is forced inwards, the material folds. If you look very closely, you can see the folds in the jacket. In my experience, if you can feel the folds then the jacket was either made of the wrong stuff (insufficiently ductile) or the lube was wrong or there is a problem with the point-up die.
In my experience, 230 grain Berger bullets are wonderful. Sounds like OP got a bad batch.