Once you have a rifle in 308, get another barrel in 243, how hard is it to switch between barrels? I intend to put together a rifle, but would like the option for either 243 or 308.
243 to 308?
- Thread starter bottom_gun
- Start date
Re: 243 to 308?
I think it would depend on what action you are talking about.
If a Remington you would need a pinned recoil lug and and action wrench along with no and go gauges.
I think it would depend on what action you are talking about.
If a Remington you would need a pinned recoil lug and and action wrench along with no and go gauges.
Re: 243 to 308?
matter of taking the barrled action out, barrel vise, action wrench, then retorque on new barrel
matter of taking the barrled action out, barrel vise, action wrench, then retorque on new barrel
Re: 243 to 308?
It can easily be learned.
If you have a pinned recoil lug barrel and the proper wrench/vise you shouldn't need a go/no go gauge for a Remington. It should return to acceptable headspace once it's probably fitted by the 'smith
You will have to retorque to a proper spec though, so it's a good idea to have a torque wrench whether or not you want to use the guages as well.
It can easily be learned.
If you have a pinned recoil lug barrel and the proper wrench/vise you shouldn't need a go/no go gauge for a Remington. It should return to acceptable headspace once it's probably fitted by the 'smith
You will have to retorque to a proper spec though, so it's a good idea to have a torque wrench whether or not you want to use the guages as well.
Re: 243 to 308?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">matter of taking the barrled action out, barrel vise, action wrench, then retorque on new barrel </div></div>
With the Surgeon 591 thats all you gotta do. Just for shits and giggles you might want to rebed just ahead of the lug on the bearing surface of the new barrel.
I had mine built with 2 identical barrels (308/260) on a 591 just for that reason. Simplicity...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PadronAniversary</div><div class="ubbcode-body">matter of taking the barrled action out, barrel vise, action wrench, then retorque on new barrel </div></div>
With the Surgeon 591 thats all you gotta do. Just for shits and giggles you might want to rebed just ahead of the lug on the bearing surface of the new barrel.
I had mine built with 2 identical barrels (308/260) on a 591 just for that reason. Simplicity...
Re: 243 to 308?
Does the RSR add any more difficulty, since the 591 has the integrated lug? That may be one more reason to justify the 591...
Does the RSR add any more difficulty, since the 591 has the integrated lug? That may be one more reason to justify the 591...
Re: 243 to 308?
If you are going to build a "switch barrel" rifle, you need to let the man doing the chambering work know. That way he can make the threads a good fit but not so tight that you need a 6 foot "cheater" pipe on the receiver wrench to break it loose every time.
If you are going to build a "switch barrel" rifle, you need to let the man doing the chambering work know. That way he can make the threads a good fit but not so tight that you need a 6 foot "cheater" pipe on the receiver wrench to break it loose every time.
Re: 243 to 308?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bottomgun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm going to get a Surgeon RSR from the group buy
</div></div>
i already have what you seek....a KMW switch barrel in a surgeon action .308/.243....A3-5 mcmillan brakes on both barrels, badger DBM.....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bottomgun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm going to get a Surgeon RSR from the group buy
</div></div>
i already have what you seek....a KMW switch barrel in a surgeon action .308/.243....A3-5 mcmillan brakes on both barrels, badger DBM.....
Re: 243 to 308?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bottomgun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does/would the decreased torque affect accuracy? </div></div>
There's a min torque that you will want to maintain. On the 1-1/16th thread you need about 100 ft lbs before the integrity of the joint becomes reliable. In reality 200 is a better number.
The important thing is that you keep within about 10% on the torque spec as long as you stay above that minimum. If you're planning to change it at home having a 2' breaker bar on the wrench isn't that big of a deal.
I did see a BR guy who setup his trailer hitch to act as a barrel vise mount and he could switch out between 22 PPC and 6 BR whenever he wanted at the range.
EDIT: Before someone asks, those numbers up above come from running the calculations for machine thread design and based upon barrel thrust loads that match bolt thrust loads.
If someone wants a detailed explanation I can give that up, but it's a bit involved and requires a lot of typing.
The basic equations can be found in Machinery's Handbook under "Threads and Threading"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bottomgun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does/would the decreased torque affect accuracy? </div></div>
There's a min torque that you will want to maintain. On the 1-1/16th thread you need about 100 ft lbs before the integrity of the joint becomes reliable. In reality 200 is a better number.
The important thing is that you keep within about 10% on the torque spec as long as you stay above that minimum. If you're planning to change it at home having a 2' breaker bar on the wrench isn't that big of a deal.
I did see a BR guy who setup his trailer hitch to act as a barrel vise mount and he could switch out between 22 PPC and 6 BR whenever he wanted at the range.
EDIT: Before someone asks, those numbers up above come from running the calculations for machine thread design and based upon barrel thrust loads that match bolt thrust loads.
If someone wants a detailed explanation I can give that up, but it's a bit involved and requires a lot of typing.
The basic equations can be found in Machinery's Handbook under "Threads and Threading"
Re: 243 to 308?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bottomgun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does/would the decreased torque affect accuracy? </div></div>
I had a 260Rem barrel loosen up on me one time - still did ~moa but kept having to add a few clicks every 10-15 rounds.... Won't let that happen again.
Bill
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bottomgun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does/would the decreased torque affect accuracy? </div></div>
I had a 260Rem barrel loosen up on me one time - still did ~moa but kept having to add a few clicks every 10-15 rounds.... Won't let that happen again.
Bill
Re: 243 to 308?
It is no big deal, very little in parts the torque wrench will be the most expensive item to buy. As stated eariler let your smith know in advance and youll be good to go. If you can remember what end to stick in to the action each time you can operate a switch barrel rifle. If your barrels are not too heavy and too long you dont need to put a pad under the chamber.
It is no big deal, very little in parts the torque wrench will be the most expensive item to buy. As stated eariler let your smith know in advance and youll be good to go. If you can remember what end to stick in to the action each time you can operate a switch barrel rifle. If your barrels are not too heavy and too long you dont need to put a pad under the chamber.
