.260 or .338 TRG?

[Sako man]

Ok, hopefully I don't get shit on for asking this question in the bolt guns zone.

I am looking for solid performance exceeding 1000 yards. I have narrowed it down to .260 or .338, yeah I hear the chuckles. Big difference in performance and one less expensive to reload, I think?

I am coming from .308 and stretch it out too 1200+ yards on occasion.

Going to .260 will just mean a re-barrel, where going to 338 will mean the purchase of a new TRG 42. For the sake of this argument i'll pretend money is not an issue.


Opinions appreciated, anyone shooting both?

 

[SigsauerP229]

I've had a TRG in 338 and 260. If I was choosing one I'd go with the 260.

If 1200 yards is what you expect to shoot then the 260 works fine in my opinion for that range.

I reload as well and although the cost wasn't a huge factor to me once I had the brass, I found that I still shot the 260 more.

 

[Sako man]

I've had a TRG in 338 and 260. If I was choosing one I'd go with the 260.

If 1200 yards is what you expect to shoot then the 260 works fine in my opinion for that range.

I reload as well and although the cost wasn't a huge factor to me once I had the brass, I found that I still shot the 260 more.

Did you choose the .260 as it may have been easier to shoot? How was it in wind? Man, sorry for the thousand questions.

Thanks!

 

[turbo54]

The 260 is much more well-rounded.

Get the 338 if you need a 338...you'll know it if you do.

Otherwise, get the 260.

 

[PatrickChewing]

The 260 is much more well-rounded.

Get the 338 if you need a 338...you'll know it if you do.

Otherwise, get the 260.

Yep, what he said.

 

[Sako man]

Yep, what he said.

Yeah, thats kinda sounds like good advice.

Thanks!

 

[Captain Kirk]

If you shoot over 1K more than 50% of the time, I'd gravitate towards the 338, my guess is (like many) you don't. The 260 is a very capable round, and it will fit the bill even if you go to 1200 yds. My primary match rifles have all been chambered in 243 for the last 3+ years, I have got hits out to 1370 yds, and its much cheaper to feed. There is no "do everything" caliber, you need to honestly look at what you will be using it for, a 338 will benefit you very little if you shoot under 1K yards the majority of the time. If you are considering a 260 and a 338, you may want to look into picking up a DTA in 260 and getting a 338 conversion, it will be cheaper than two complete rifles with optics in the end.

Here is a TRG I just had rebarreled in 243 by Benchmark

 

[Sako man]

If you shoot over 1K more than 50% of the time, I'd gravitate towards the 338, my guess is (like many) you don't. The 260 is a very capable round, and it will fit the bill even if you go to 1200 yds. My primary match rifles have all been chambered in 243 for the last 3+ years, I have got hits out to 1370 yds, and its much cheaper to feed. There is no "do everything" caliber, you need to honestly look at what you will be using it for, a 338 will benefit you very little if you shoot under 1K yards the majority of the time. If you are considering a 260 and a 338, you may want to look into picking up a DTA in 260 and getting a 338 conversion, it will be cheaper than two complete rifles with optics in the end.

Here is a TRG I just had rebarreled in 243 by Benchmark

I normally get out to BLM where we can shoot out a mile. But due to the limitation of .308- and me, I'm usually shooting under 1200. So I could use the .338 if I was in the mood.

Man, that is a sweet looking gun! The DTA is a good idea! But pricy... so have to sell some stuff. Im still confused.... It's a tough one.

 

[bodywerks]

Two different calibers with different uses entirely, IMO. The 260 isn't a one mile shooting caliber. Even if you can keep the bullet supersonic throughout the flight, your still gonna get thrown all over the place by the wind. I think even the best wind readers would struggle to hit a 1 MOA target at a mile, hit after hit after hit. Personally, it would discourage me.
My opinion, if you can't have both, but shooting will rarely stretch past 1k go for the 260. If you are looking to shoot exclusively past 750-1k, then the 338 is a confidence booster. 4-6" groups are far more common at 1k to 338 shooters than 260/6.5 creed/etc shooters. Ballistics don't lie:
140 amax 2900mv=61"drift in a 10mph full value at 1k.. It's subsonic and 139"drift at a mile
Berger 300otm 2840mv= 44"drift at 1k and 95"at a mile and still supersonic.

 

[Tango down]

Ok, hopefully I don't get shit on for asking this question in the bolt guns zone.

I am looking for solid performance exceeding 1000 yards. I have narrowed it down to .260 or .338, yeah I hear the chuckles. Big difference in performance and one less expensive to reload, I think?

I am coming from .308 and stretch it out too 1200+ yards on occasion.

Going to .260 will just mean a re-barrel, where going to 338 will mean the purchase of a new TRG 42. For the sake of this argument i'll pretend money is not an issue.


Opinions appreciated, anyone shooting both?

Sako man
Recently went through the same train of thoughts.
I also have a .308 (TRG 22), great rifle, realistically accurate at 1000 yards; also have access to BLM land and also reload. My options for ELR were a bit different than yours; as I wanted something able to really go further, I was debating between the 7mm SAUM and the .338LM. I shot both calibers at a mile + and both are impressive, with their respective pros and cons. For practicality reasons, I went with a TRG 42 .338 LM but I have a tremendous respect for the reach and accuracy of the 7mm SAUM.
If you ever want to shoot a mile +, use the right tool, you will not be disappointed. Btw, you can still shoot 1200 yards with these, it is just that much easier, so why limit yourself.
Watch out, ELR is addictive

 

[tylerw02]

Do you like wasting money? Do you like having less trigger time? If so, get a .338!

 

[SVG308]

Life is short-get what ya want! 338 isn't too costly when you reload. Brass will go 10+ cycles and your loads should come under $1.25/rd.

 

[bodywerks]

Do you like wasting money? Do you like having less trigger time? If so, get a .338!

If you don't reload, then definitely no truer statement. But if you do reload, the lapua us only about a buckfiddy a round(assuming only 10 reloads per piece of brass). Worth every penny to me if it means making more consistent hits at ELR distances.
The obvious answer is to have an affordable round rifle along with the 338 rifle. If i could only have one, obviously I'd start with the 260. I think both are great rounds, but for totally different applications.

 

[Tango down]

Do you like wasting money? Do you like having less trigger time? If so, get a .338!

LOL...OK Tyler, let's set the record straight; agreed that shooting a .338LM does not come cheap but...I have an Anschutz MPR 22, one hole tack driver at 50 yards, about $5 for 50 rounds, no waste of $$ and plenty of trigger time. Nevertheless, I noticed that it was not so accurate when shooting over a mile.
There are different tools for different purposes; if OP wants to shoot up to 1200 yards, even 1500, he has many options, all of them being cheaper than a .338LM but as we know, some shooters have a tendency to always want to reach further out and for that, we need "special tools".
Not that the OP mentioned shooting at 2000 yards but as he is already reaching 1200 yards with his .308, which is good, he may "feel the need" to go much further out and in that case, there are better tools than a .260. Remember that he has access to BLM land and mentioned shooting a mile, if he is "in the mood". How often will he be "in the mood"? That is up to him but we can give him options.
We know there are no "perfect do-it-all rifle", so having 2 different caliber rifles would be best; otherwise, Captain Kirk's options is not a bad one. Shooting a mile accurately does not come cheap, may be OP will be just fine with 1300. Finally, as I mentioned in a previous post, there are other calibers, 7mm SAUM being one of them, that can easily reach a mile for a lesser cost.
I hope that our different "point of view" on this topic will help the OP to make up his mind, good luck Sako man

 

[garandman]

My experience.....

Wanted a 338. Got talked out of it and into a 6.5CM. I do love my 6.5 CM

But I'm on track again to build a 338.

Choose wisely.

 

[SigsauerP229]

Did you choose the .260 as it may have been easier to shoot? How was it in wind? Man, sorry for the thousand questions.

Thanks!

If by easier you mean did I shoot one more accurately then the other then I'd say yes and no. I could shoot equal size groups from both but the 338 does fatigue you more so I could shoot more small groups in one outing with the 260. Both had the Sako muzzle brake on them.

The 338 is obviously easier to shoot in heavy wind but once you get to a 1000 yards your going to have to read the wind correctly to make hits with either round.

I sold both of my Sako's because I intend to get a DTA in 338 with a 6.5 barrel switch as well.

 

[Sako man]

My experience.....

Wanted a 338. Got talked out of it and into a 6.5CM. I do love my 6.5 CM

But I'm on track again to build a 338.

Choose wisely.

Wisdom has never been my strong suit

 

[Snipers]

Why no love for a 300 Win Mag?

 

[bodywerks]

Why no love for a 300 Win Mag?

Caliber vs BC? They don't make too many looong 30 cal bullets.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I've shot the .260 at 1Kyd over a couple of years F Open Comp. Yes, the .260 will deliver, but there are more competent 6.5 LR cartridges, accuracy-wise, as long as one is willing to eat the costs associated with more frequent barrel replacement.

A .338 is off my menu for a number of reasons, but I'll just own up and say I don't handle recoil well. As physiques compare, I'm rather closer to the 'frail' end of the spectrum.

My choice for the role would be a 28" 1:8" .280 Rem. Affordable to reload, at least as efficient a cartridge as the .260, yet capable without the onus of frequent barrel replacement. Recoil-wise, of the .338 and the .280 Rem, I can handle one's recoil, and it ain't the .338.

In an anti-material role, if it absolutely, positively needed to be destroyed, I'd be getting the .338; but I'd also be getting someone else to do the shooting for me.

Greg

 

[tylerw02]

Caliber vs BC? They don't make too many looong 30 cal bullets.

All a guy needs is the Berger. Its right on the heels of the .338.

 

[Sako man]

I've shot the .260 at 1Kyd over a couple of years F Open Comp. Yes, the .260 will deliver, but there are more competent 6.5 LR cartridges, accuracy-wise, as long as one is willing to eat the costs associated with more frequent barrel replacement.

A .338 is off my menu for a number of reasons, but I'll just own up and say I don't handle recoil well. As physiques compare, I'm rather closer to the 'frail' end of the spectrum.

My choice for the role would be a 28" 1:8" .280 Rem. Affordable to reload, at least as efficient a cartridge as the .260, yet capable without the onus of frequent barrel replacement. Recoil-wise, of the .338 and the .280 Rem, I can handle one's recoil, and it ain't the .338.

In an anti-material role, if it absolutely, positively needed to be destroyed, I'd be getting the .338; but I'd also be getting someone else to do the shooting for me.

Greg

Well I'm not worried about recoil, all I do is work out. That said I just pulled the trigger on a rebarel from Spartan rifles for my stiller action to .260!

Thanks for the feedback.

Yipeeeeeeee!!!!!!

 

[Tango down]

Well I'm not worried about recoil, all I do is work out. That said I just pulled the trigger on a rebarel from Spartan rifles for my stiller action to .260!

Thanks for the feedback.

Yipeeeeeeee!!!!!!

Congrats!
.260, .308, .338, .300, etc... Doesn't matter that much, as long as you are happy with your choice. It is not your first rifle and it won't be your last one either. Let us know how she shoots

 

[Greg Langelius *]

You must be a bunch younger that me. Recoil is easier then. But even if you're young, it' not a marksman's friend

No matter how well you can 'handle it'; it amounts to fatigue and imposes limits on any marksman's capabilities. Given that good marksmanship requires repetitive practice, fatigue will degrade performance.

In my case, I reserve the .22lr for my practice. I've found that the critical skills can be honed just as well with it, and the cost, in ammo, fatigue, and rifle wear, is a lot more affordable.Maybe this also means that the main rifle's recoil is less significant; but fatigue is fatigue, and I don't need any more than is absolutely necessary in my current state.

My only real point is that what works for us elder farts can also work for the younger among us, and why wait for age and decrepitude in order to acquire one's wisdom?

Greg

 

[Sako man]

You must be a bunch younger that me. Recoil is easier then. But even if you're young, it' not a marksman's friend

No matter how well you can 'handle it'; it amounts to fatigue and imposes limits on any marksman's capabilities. Given that good marksmanship requires repetitive practice, fatigue will degrade performance.

In my case, I reserve the .22lr for my practice. I've found that the critical skills can be honed just as well with it, and the cost, in ammo, fatigue, and rifle wear, is a lot more affordable.Maybe this also means that the main rifle's recoil is less significant; but fatigue is fatigue, and I don't need any more than is absolutely necessary in my current state.

My only real point is that what works for us elder farts can also work for the younger among us, and why wait for age and decrepitude in order to acquire one's wisdom?

Greg

Well I'm in my 40s. Ok that aside I agree with your assertion, last thing I want to do is develop a flinch. I decided to go to .260 as it its much less expensive to load for, has great ballistics all the way to 1400 yards, and LESS kick. Perhaps some day I will go to .338 but not this year.

And agreed, why re invent the wheel when things have already been figured out by wiser individuals.

 

[bodywerks]

Well I'm in my 40s. Ok that aside I agree with your assertion, last thing I want to do is develop a flinch. I decided to go to .260 as it its much less expensive to load for, has great ballistics all the way to 1400 yards, and LESS kick. Perhaps some day I will go to .338 but not this year.

And agreed, why re invent the wheel when things have already been figured out by wiser individuals.

Throw a little Jimmy brake on it, use a heavy barrel, and it will have NO kick. I don't even blink when i pull the trigger on mine.

 

[Sako man]

sweet looking gun.

 

[Sako man]

Congrats!
.260, .308, .338, .300, etc... Doesn't matter that much, as long as you are happy with your choice. It is not your first rifle and it won't be your last one either. Let us know how she shoots

Oh God! Yeah but you talked me into a 338 now with your other post! So thinking of doing both now....haha..Im such a sucker. There is a nice TRG 42 sitting over at CS Tactical

 

[MedinaM40]

260... only reason to go 338 it to shoot 1500+ or elk at 1k....

 

[Tango down]

Oh God! Yeah but you talked me into a 338 now with your other post! So thinking of doing both now....haha..Im such a sucker. There is a nice TRG 42 sitting over at CS Tactical

You are not a sucker; nothing wrong, in my book, with having a .260 AND a .338LM...actually sounds pretty darn good.

 

[Tango down]

260... only reason to go 338 it to shoot 1500+ or elk at 1k....

From a civilian point of view, that's 100% correct and if you read Sako man prior posts, he has access to BLM land, up to a mile. He may go the .338 way, someday, or other ELR calibers.
Once your dope and your loads are on, the one mile shot is not that much of a big deal, it's after that it gets "interesting".
That stuff is addictive

 

[Sako man]

You are not a sucker; nothing wrong, in my book, with having a .260 AND a .338LM...actually sounds pretty darn good.

Thanks Ombre, good stuff.

You will laugh however. I just put up a craigslist add for my spare car. Yeah I need the money and the space now..hahaha. At least the wife doesn't bug me about my gun collection. I pretty much agree with you. Once you get somewhat proficient at shooting at 1000+ it becomes more of a challenge and therefore more fun.

Man, I though golf was an expensive past time.

 

[mdslammer]

Hey Sako Man,

I can't speak for the .260 caliber but from what I've read, it's capable of reaching out to 1000 meters. I've shot the same distance with my .308 as well.
Depending on how much you will be shooting LR/ELR would be a good judge for buying a .338 Lapua Magnum. If it's only an occasional outing, then I'd say it's not worth the investment. Go hang with a buddy that has one, bring some ammo and have fun.

However, if you think you'll be shooting LR/ELR on a more consistent basis, by all means, I'd suggest the .338 Lapua Magnum. Currently, I have a Savage BA110 .338 LM. I've had it for a few years. I really like this rifle. It's a good shooter for a factory stick. I've shot from 1000 to 2300 yds. with it. Usually, 1 mile is the norm out here in the southern NV desert.

I've replaced the factory base (that has a 20 MOA cant) with a Murphy Custom titanium base wtih a 40 MOA cant. I got back 17 MOA elevation on my NF scope. At 2300 yds. I had to max out my elevation (93.5 MOA) and go down 3.5 hash marks on the reticle.

My buddy just took delivery for a SAKO TRG 42. It's a beautiful rifle that can shoot lights out at LR/ELR for sure.

Anyway, if you do go with the .338, I'd suggest reloading for it. It's cheaper and more accurate IMHO. Good luck on your decision.
Here's a link for a few films I produced shooting ELR with the .338LM.
Long Range Shooting at 2300 Yards within AccurateShooter.com

Best.

MDslammer
Las Vegas, NV

 

[Tango down]

Hey Sako Man,

I can't speak for the .260 caliber but from what I've read, it's capable of reaching out to 1000 meters. I've shot the same distance with my .308 as well.
Depending on how much you will be shooting LR/ELR would be a good judge for buying a .338 Lapua Magnum. If it's only an occasional outing, then I'd say it's not worth the investment. Go hang with a buddy that has one, bring some ammo and have fun.

However, if you think you'll be shooting LR/ELR on a more consistent basis, by all means, I'd suggest the .338 Lapua Magnum. Currently, I have a Savage BA110 .338 LM. I've had it for a few years. I really like this rifle. It's a good shooter for a factory stick. I've shot from 1000 to 2300 yds. with it. Usually, 1 mile is the norm out here in the southern NV desert.

I've replaced the factory base (that has a 20 MOA cant) with a Murphy Custom titanium base wtih a 40 MOA cant. I got back 17 MOA elevation on my NF scope. At 2300 yds. I had to max out my elevation (93.5 MOA) and go down 3.5 hash marks on the reticle.

My buddy just took delivery for a SAKO TRG 42. It's a beautiful rifle that can shoot lights out at LR/ELR for sure.

Anyway, if you do go with the .338, I'd suggest reloading for it. It's cheaper and more accurate IMHO. Good luck on your decision.
Here's a link for a few films I produced shooting ELR with the .338LM.
Long Range Shooting at 2300 Yards within AccurateShooter.com

Best.

MDslammer
Las Vegas, NV

MDslammer
It is always a pleasure to watch your videos, amazing quality and great shooting. 7mm Saum, .338 LM, 2300 yards, awesome day.
I can't wait to whoop your ass at 2400 yards; only one problem, I am not sure that I can do that, especially when you will have your new stick from SAC but I'll try my best

 

[mdslammer]

MDslammer
It is always a pleasure to watch your videos, amazing quality and great shooting. 7mm Saum, .338 LM, 2300 yards, awesome day.
I can't wait to whoop your ass at 2400 yards; only one problem, I am not sure that I can do that, especially when you will have your new stick from SAC but I'll try my best

Thanks for viewing and the kinds words Ombre Noire.

Your challenge is accepted. I'll let my stick do the talking for me.... :>}

 

[Sako man]

Hey Sako Man,

I can't speak for the .260 caliber but from what I've read, it's capable of reaching out to 1000 meters. I've shot the same distance with my .308 as well.
Depending on how much you will be shooting LR/ELR would be a good judge for buying a .338 Lapua Magnum. If it's only an occasional outing, then I'd say it's not worth the investment. Go hang with a buddy that has one, bring some ammo and have fun.

However, if you think you'll be shooting LR/ELR on a more consistent basis, by all means, I'd suggest the .338 Lapua Magnum. Currently, I have a Savage BA110 .338 LM. I've had it for a few years. I really like this rifle. It's a good shooter for a factory stick. I've shot from 1000 to 2300 yds. with it. Usually, 1 mile is the norm out here in the southern NV desert.

I've replaced the factory base (that has a 20 MOA cant) with a Murphy Custom titanium base wtih a 40 MOA cant. I got back 17 MOA elevation on my NF scope. At 2300 yds. I had to max out my elevation (93.5 MOA) and go down 3.5 hash marks on the reticle.

My buddy just took delivery for a SAKO TRG 42. It's a beautiful rifle that can shoot lights out at LR/ELR for sure.

Anyway, if you do go with the .338, I'd suggest reloading for it. It's cheaper and more accurate IMHO. Good luck on your decision.
Here's a link for a few films I produced shooting ELR with the .338LM.
Long Range Shooting at 2300 Yards within AccurateShooter.com

Best.

MDslammer
Las Vegas, NV

So you need a 40 MOA base? I guess that would make sense. Great videos, pretty amazing.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Speaking of bases and slope. I like to glassbed my bases, and to use the bedding process as a means of customizing the slope to obtain the most effective use of the scope's elevation adjustment range.

I begin the process by centering the scope's horizontal reticle adjustment, then running the elevation adjustment down to bottom and bringing it back up about 5MOA, to reduce any tendency to bind or limit the horizontal adjustment.

Next, I mount the scope with adequate care to get the reticle level.

At this point, it can help if the base (Redfield JR or similar other (Leupold) type windage adjustable scope bases) or rings (as with Burris Signature windage adjustable Rings) have some method for providing some windage adjustment. Some folks don't like JR type bases for tactical applications, they don't feel they are reliably rugged. They may be right, but my applications don't call for that sort of rigidity and my JR type bases have proven adequate.

From this point, I put the knob caps on and leave the knobs alone until after the final stages of the process.

I begin sighting in the scope, using only base shims and the base windage adjustment or the ring windage shims to shift the POI. This will usually entail removing the scope/rings from the base and remounting it several times before the final shim value is established. Once I have the POI centered horizontally, and on target or slightly below POA, the base has its slope value customized so it corresponds directly to the scope's best mounting alignment.

This is when the scope base gets glass bedded, using the shims to establish the desired custom slope.

As a final check, I will remove the knob caps, refine/verify my zero, then run the elevation up so the POI is up near the top of the target, and drop a plum line to see if the lower impacts are in line with the plum. If not, I will relevel the reticle until they are.

This process provides a customized scope mounting system that allows full use of the scope's elevation adjustment range.

Greg

 

[mdslammer]

So you need a 40 MOA base? I guess that would make sense. Great videos, pretty amazing.

Thanks for viewing and the kinds words Sako Man. In the beginning, I shot a mile with the factory base that came with my BA110 .338LM. It
had a 20 MOA cant. After zeroing, my NF scope, it had 73.5 MOA so I was just about topping out my elevation at that distance.
When I changed out the base with the 40 MOA cant, I now have plenty of elevation if I'm shooting past 1 mile.

My new .338 LM stick (built by SAC/Mark Gordon) will have a Murphy Precision Titanium Base with a 45 MOA cant. I'm putting a
NF ATACR which has 120 MOA adjustment. One thing to remember, more cant means more of a severe angle and most likely higher rings.

Also, you should leave a little room on your turret adjustment. i.e. If you had a scope with 100 MOA
adjustment, you'd have 50 up & 50 down. Therefore you really wouldn't want to have a base that had a 50 MOA cant to it. Leaves no room to work with
if needed.

Good luck.

MDslammer

 

[raptor99]

I know you asked about the 260 or the 338 Lapua but Greg is right recommending a 280. I shoot a 284 and I think you get the best of both worlds with either a 280 or 284. I have the 260 and have shot the barrel out of it a number of times and just went to the 260imp 30 degree on my last rebarrel. I really like the 284 for long range shooting. Its deadly accurate and I have shot it out to a mile (Actual distance was 1788yds). I use the 162AMAXs in mine and was dead on at a mile with 62MOA. I was shooting next to a 338 Lapua and he and I were using nearly the same exact dials to be on at 1400+ and 1500+yds and a mile. He was shooting 300gr Bergers.