Gunsmithing .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

[phightower]

I've shot about 250 rounds thru my Rem. 700 .308 ACC and although the recoil in a non-issue, the muzzle hop is really irritating.
It's a consistent jump up and to the right.
Not only is there no way to follow the bullet to impact, getting back on target takes alot of effort.

Obviously a muzzle brake would solve this issue, but I wanted to know if anybody's had experience with some of the lower end comp/flash hiders that tend to be geared toward .308 ARs.

The other issue is noise. Most comps drop the recoil and hop at the expense of excessive volume. This tends to make a shooter a bit unpopular at my local range.

Any leads on brakes/comps/hiders that mainly minimize the hop would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Graham]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: phightower</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Obviously a muzzle brake would solve this issue</div></div>Nope.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3169244#Post3169244

 

[phightower]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

Link was broken...

Can you explain "Nope"?

 

[DamnYuppie]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

I think he means that muzzle hop is due to you not the rifle. Meaning your fundamentals are not correct thus you are causing the muzzle hop. That being that case no piece of equipment will resolve it for you, only lots of "perfect practice" can remedy it.

 

[jetmd]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

I run a Badger FTE on my .308 and LOVE it!

I know there is a muzzle device out that has an extra port on the right side to conteract the movement you speek of, but I am sorry I can not remember the name or manuf. Sorry.

FTE's work good, and as most come with standard threads so you are ready to mount a can if you decide to do so in the future.

 

[rkaires]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

I been using a PWS precision rifle compensator on my AAC-SD and couldn't be happier. It cut the muzzle jump down to the point where I could see my impacts at 200yds.

http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=127&idcategory=6

 

[Pusher591]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

There are ways around "hop". If you can pre-load the bi-pod by tilting the muzzle end down and bringing the buttstock up, then droping into your shoulder pocket where there is forward force being placed on the bipod legs. This mostly only works when you are prone and have a forgiving surface to "slightly dig" the bipod legs into. You can also use anything you have to place force against the bippod. It's hard to make this work if you are shooting off a slick, or solid surface such as smooth concrete flooring or a deck/wooden platform. This is where having a bipod with claws on it helps.

The preloaded bipod gives a nice stable position, and allows the recoil to come strait back into you instead of the barreling "hoping" around as you put it.

 

[gstaylorg]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

For me, hop means I'm not straight behind the rifle. Similar to correcting a rear-wheel drive vehicle sliding on ice, if I move my body slightly more toward the direction of the hop (in your case to the right), it disappears.

 

[biffj]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

Put a suppressor on the rifle. That will help by adding muzzle weight and act as a brake in the process. You won't get the unwanted noise that a regular brake would create (or redirect I should say).

Frank

 

[turbo54]

Re: .308 Hop = Muzzle Brake

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DamnYuppie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think he means that muzzle hop is due to you not the rifle. Meaning your fundamentals are not correct thus you are causing the muzzle hop. That being that case no piece of equipment will resolve it for you, only lots of "perfect practice" can remedy it. </div></div>

100% correct. I used to not be able to spot my hits/misses even out at 600 yards, before I learned how important body position and bipod loading is.

Now, With my 308 and no brake, I can usually see my hits at 100 yards, always at 200, often watch my trace at 300, and usually watch it at 400.

Get straight behind the rifle - even if it feels wrong at first, and load the bipod.

You'll get it.