Since there is not a forum specifically for dumbasses to ask questions, I thought I'd ask here. First, what is a 38+P? I just got a 357 mag and it is listed as a 357 magnum/ 38+P, would there be any problem shooting 38 specials out of this gun?
Suppressors 357mag/38+P
- Thread starter Bryan27
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Re: 357mag/38+P
None whatsoever. 38 special +P means a round with greater pressure. It usually has higher velocity as well.
Most guns that are made to shoot .357 mags all day long just list that. That you can shoot .38's in it is a given.
Since your's makes mention of the +P .38s, I wonder if you have an alloy framed gun or a lighter weight model. If that is the case, you may not want to fire hot .357 mag rounds all day long, rather, mostly .38's with the occasional .357.
And if I wasn't clear, you are totally GTG to shoot standard pressure .38's as well.
None whatsoever. 38 special +P means a round with greater pressure. It usually has higher velocity as well.
Most guns that are made to shoot .357 mags all day long just list that. That you can shoot .38's in it is a given.
Since your's makes mention of the +P .38s, I wonder if you have an alloy framed gun or a lighter weight model. If that is the case, you may not want to fire hot .357 mag rounds all day long, rather, mostly .38's with the occasional .357.
And if I wasn't clear, you are totally GTG to shoot standard pressure .38's as well.
Re: 357mag/38+P
<span style="font-weight: bold">"...there be any problem shooting 38 specials out of this gun?"</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000"> </span> <span style="font-size: 11pt"> </span> <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">ABSOLUTELY................</span></span></span>=====================================
Many yrs ago one of the gun writer's [Mike Venteruio (spelling?) or Skeeter or some writer WITH credentials] wrote an extensive article on shooting 38 cases in a 357 chamber. With in a few hundered rounds case extraction became difficult, then switching to 357 cases they had to be pounded out.
I just spent an hour++ cleaning a [S&W M-65/357] cylinder because the previous owner, a phucking **moron** shot only 38 ammo....
So if you are of the same **ilk** then by all means shoot 38 cases in your 357 cylinder; on the other had I will shoot reduced 357 mag loads in 357 cases in a 357 cylinder.....
<span style="font-weight: bold">"...there be any problem shooting 38 specials out of this gun?"</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000"> </span> <span style="font-size: 11pt"> </span> <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">ABSOLUTELY................</span></span></span>=====================================
Many yrs ago one of the gun writer's [Mike Venteruio (spelling?) or Skeeter or some writer WITH credentials] wrote an extensive article on shooting 38 cases in a 357 chamber. With in a few hundered rounds case extraction became difficult, then switching to 357 cases they had to be pounded out.
I just spent an hour++ cleaning a [S&W M-65/357] cylinder because the previous owner, a phucking **moron** shot only 38 ammo....
So if you are of the same **ilk** then by all means shoot 38 cases in your 357 cylinder; on the other had I will shoot reduced 357 mag loads in 357 cases in a 357 cylinder.....
Re: 357mag/38+P
I have fired hundreds of .38's out of my 357 revolver and NEVER had a problem. in fact i prefer the 38's at the range because of the lower recoil.
I have fired hundreds of .38's out of my 357 revolver and NEVER had a problem. in fact i prefer the 38's at the range because of the lower recoil.
Re: 357mag/38+P
As long as you clean it regularly there shouldn't be a problem. If all you shoot is .38's and you don't clean the cylinder well the fouling can build up. Then when you try to load a .357 round you'll feel the resistance. Just clean it after use and you're gtg.
As long as you clean it regularly there shouldn't be a problem. If all you shoot is .38's and you don't clean the cylinder well the fouling can build up. Then when you try to load a .357 round you'll feel the resistance. Just clean it after use and you're gtg.
Re: 357mag/38+P
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cartman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None whatsoever. 38 special +P means a round with greater pressure. It usually has higher velocity as well.
Most guns that are made to shoot .357 mags all day long just list that. That you can shoot .38's in it is a given.
Since your's makes mention of the +P .38s, I wonder if you have an alloy framed gun or a lighter weight model. If that is the case, you may not want to fire hot .357 mag rounds all day long, rather, mostly .38's with the occasional .357.
And if I wasn't clear, you are totally GTG to shoot standard pressure .38's as well. </div></div>
Thanks. I probably should have asked before I dropped a hundred bucks on 38 ammo, glad to see I didn't just flush it!
It is an alloy frame/titanium cylinder, model 327 PD Smith & Wesson. The gun is rediculously light for its size at only 24 ounces for a large framed 8 shot revolver with a 4" barrel. You are probably right about not wanting to shoot the full power loads all day even though I've not had problems with recoil in the past I don't need to spend the extra cash to punch paper.
On another note, I did drop some 38's in the cylinder and they seem kinda loose to me. I don't have any 357's other than the tested case that came from the factory to compare with, but if you tilt the gun they will slide back and forth on their own. Is that normal and ok?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cartman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None whatsoever. 38 special +P means a round with greater pressure. It usually has higher velocity as well.
Most guns that are made to shoot .357 mags all day long just list that. That you can shoot .38's in it is a given.
Since your's makes mention of the +P .38s, I wonder if you have an alloy framed gun or a lighter weight model. If that is the case, you may not want to fire hot .357 mag rounds all day long, rather, mostly .38's with the occasional .357.
And if I wasn't clear, you are totally GTG to shoot standard pressure .38's as well. </div></div>
Thanks. I probably should have asked before I dropped a hundred bucks on 38 ammo, glad to see I didn't just flush it!
It is an alloy frame/titanium cylinder, model 327 PD Smith & Wesson. The gun is rediculously light for its size at only 24 ounces for a large framed 8 shot revolver with a 4" barrel. You are probably right about not wanting to shoot the full power loads all day even though I've not had problems with recoil in the past I don't need to spend the extra cash to punch paper.
On another note, I did drop some 38's in the cylinder and they seem kinda loose to me. I don't have any 357's other than the tested case that came from the factory to compare with, but if you tilt the gun they will slide back and forth on their own. Is that normal and ok?
Re: 357mag/38+P
Yes. The tolerances on both cases and the cylinder are not "perfect".
As noted, just clean the cylinder. As far as the "experts" saying not to do it in your revolver, I have to say hogwash. And S&W says hogwash too.
I thought so about the frame. Personally I would mostly practice with .38's. But if you're going to load .357 mags for HD or something, do practice with the ammo you're going to carry for defense. The recoil is different -- especially on a light frame -- and there will generally be a huge muzzle blast difference.
Yes. The tolerances on both cases and the cylinder are not "perfect".
As noted, just clean the cylinder. As far as the "experts" saying not to do it in your revolver, I have to say hogwash. And S&W says hogwash too.
I thought so about the frame. Personally I would mostly practice with .38's. But if you're going to load .357 mags for HD or something, do practice with the ammo you're going to carry for defense. The recoil is different -- especially on a light frame -- and there will generally be a huge muzzle blast difference.
Re: 357mag/38+P
When you say they slide back and forth, do you mean with the cylinder closed? If it's the model I'm thinking of the 327 uses moon clips. Are the .38's sliding in the clips or did you just insert them in the cylinder?
When you say they slide back and forth, do you mean with the cylinder closed? If it's the model I'm thinking of the 327 uses moon clips. Are the .38's sliding in the clips or did you just insert them in the cylinder?
Re: 357mag/38+P
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dlc356</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you say they slide back and forth, do you mean with the cylinder closed? If it's the model I'm thinking of the 327 uses moon clips. Are the .38's sliding in the clips or did you just insert them in the cylinder? </div></div>
No moon clips just drop them straight into the cylinder, I don't think it is set up to use moon clips but not sure. I just loaded up the 38's again and they slide back and forth in the cylinder slightly if I tilt the gun back and forth. At top dead center, with the cylinder closed, I am just able to get a 6/1000ths feeler guage behind a bullet. That is the important one and it seems like that would be an acceptable tolerance to still be able to close the cylinder. I guess it's just the cold rounds that are allowed to move. If I understand correctly the cylinders that are set up for moon clips are cut so the moon clip sits flush with the back of the cylinder and the moon clip is recessed, the extractor on mine sits flush with the back of the cylinder. Is that right?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dlc356</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you say they slide back and forth, do you mean with the cylinder closed? If it's the model I'm thinking of the 327 uses moon clips. Are the .38's sliding in the clips or did you just insert them in the cylinder? </div></div>
No moon clips just drop them straight into the cylinder, I don't think it is set up to use moon clips but not sure. I just loaded up the 38's again and they slide back and forth in the cylinder slightly if I tilt the gun back and forth. At top dead center, with the cylinder closed, I am just able to get a 6/1000ths feeler guage behind a bullet. That is the important one and it seems like that would be an acceptable tolerance to still be able to close the cylinder. I guess it's just the cold rounds that are allowed to move. If I understand correctly the cylinders that are set up for moon clips are cut so the moon clip sits flush with the back of the cylinder and the moon clip is recessed, the extractor on mine sits flush with the back of the cylinder. Is that right?
Re: 357mag/38+P
It's just case length.
Left to right
357 mag, 38 +p, 38
as others said, keep it clean, and you'll be fine....
It's just case length.
Left to right
357 mag, 38 +p, 38
as others said, keep it clean, and you'll be fine....
Re: 357mag/38+P
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: michael sr.</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">"...there be any problem shooting 38 specials out of this gun?"</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000"> </span> <span style="font-size: 11pt"> </span> <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">ABSOLUTELY................</span></span></span>=====================================
Many yrs ago one of the gun writer's [Mike Venteruio (spelling?) or Skeeter or some writer WITH credentials] wrote an extensive article on shooting 38 cases in a 357 chamber. With in a few hundered rounds case extraction became difficult, then switching to 357 cases they had to be pounded out.
I just spent an hour++ cleaning a [S&W M-65/357] cylinder because the previous owner, a phucking **moron** shot only 38 ammo....
So if you are of the same **ilk** then by all means shoot 38 cases in your 357 cylinder; on the other had I will shoot reduced 357 mag loads in 357 cases in a 357 cylinder.....
</div></div>
I'm a cheap ass when it comes to shooting lead at paper, but when I start reloading I will probably just shoot reduced loads 357 mag loads if for no other reason than to keep things simple. For now it's 38's and I'll probably shoot a few 357's when I pick some up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: michael sr.</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">"...there be any problem shooting 38 specials out of this gun?"</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000"> </span> <span style="font-size: 11pt"> </span> <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">ABSOLUTELY................</span></span></span>=====================================
Many yrs ago one of the gun writer's [Mike Venteruio (spelling?) or Skeeter or some writer WITH credentials] wrote an extensive article on shooting 38 cases in a 357 chamber. With in a few hundered rounds case extraction became difficult, then switching to 357 cases they had to be pounded out.
I just spent an hour++ cleaning a [S&W M-65/357] cylinder because the previous owner, a phucking **moron** shot only 38 ammo....
So if you are of the same **ilk** then by all means shoot 38 cases in your 357 cylinder; on the other had I will shoot reduced 357 mag loads in 357 cases in a 357 cylinder.....
</div></div>
I'm a cheap ass when it comes to shooting lead at paper, but when I start reloading I will probably just shoot reduced loads 357 mag loads if for no other reason than to keep things simple. For now it's 38's and I'll probably shoot a few 357's when I pick some up.
Re: 357mag/38+P
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's just case length.
Left to right
357 mag, 38 +p, 38
as others said, keep it clean, and you'll be fine....
</div></div>
Gotcha, Thanks.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's just case length.
Left to right
357 mag, 38 +p, 38
as others said, keep it clean, and you'll be fine....
</div></div>
Gotcha, Thanks.
Re: 357mag/38+P
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bryan27</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cartman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None whatsoever. 38 special +P means a round with greater pressure. It usually has higher velocity as well.
Most guns that are made to shoot .357 mags all day long just list that. That you can shoot .38's in it is a given.
Since your's makes mention of the +P .38s, I wonder if you have an alloy framed gun or a lighter weight model. If that is the case, you may not want to fire hot .357 mag rounds all day long, rather, mostly .38's with the occasional .357.
And if I wasn't clear, you are totally GTG to shoot standard pressure .38's as well. </div></div>
Thanks. I probably should have asked before I dropped a hundred bucks on 38 ammo, glad to see I didn't just flush it!
It is an alloy frame/titanium cylinder, model 327 PD Smith & Wesson. The gun is rediculously light for its size at only 24 ounces for a large framed 8 shot revolver with a 4" barrel. You are probably right about not wanting to shoot the full power loads all day even though I've not had problems with recoil in the past I don't need to spend the extra cash to punch paper.
On another note, I did drop some 38's in the cylinder and they seem kinda loose to me. I don't have any 357's other than the tested case that came from the factory to compare with, but if you tilt the gun they will slide back and forth on their own. Is that normal and ok? </div></div>
Perfectly normal. You'll find .357 loads will have a little shake to them as well. With a good cleaning kit, you swab and brush the cylinder chambers after firing .38 special or +p rounds. Then when firing.357 cases, and their consequent expansion, they will extract fine. If they are snug, you just need to brush the chambers a little more thoroughly.
You can also shoot .38 S&W rounds as well: an older, slightly shorter cartridge rarely seen these days but occasionally found. It was more widely seen in the early days of the .38 special (which replaced it in the S&W line with the triple lock) where people had the same question as your OP!
8 rounds of .38 spc., +P or .357, in a light revolver is well armed indeed!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bryan27</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cartman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None whatsoever. 38 special +P means a round with greater pressure. It usually has higher velocity as well.
Most guns that are made to shoot .357 mags all day long just list that. That you can shoot .38's in it is a given.
Since your's makes mention of the +P .38s, I wonder if you have an alloy framed gun or a lighter weight model. If that is the case, you may not want to fire hot .357 mag rounds all day long, rather, mostly .38's with the occasional .357.
And if I wasn't clear, you are totally GTG to shoot standard pressure .38's as well. </div></div>
Thanks. I probably should have asked before I dropped a hundred bucks on 38 ammo, glad to see I didn't just flush it!
It is an alloy frame/titanium cylinder, model 327 PD Smith & Wesson. The gun is rediculously light for its size at only 24 ounces for a large framed 8 shot revolver with a 4" barrel. You are probably right about not wanting to shoot the full power loads all day even though I've not had problems with recoil in the past I don't need to spend the extra cash to punch paper.
On another note, I did drop some 38's in the cylinder and they seem kinda loose to me. I don't have any 357's other than the tested case that came from the factory to compare with, but if you tilt the gun they will slide back and forth on their own. Is that normal and ok? </div></div>
Perfectly normal. You'll find .357 loads will have a little shake to them as well. With a good cleaning kit, you swab and brush the cylinder chambers after firing .38 special or +p rounds. Then when firing.357 cases, and their consequent expansion, they will extract fine. If they are snug, you just need to brush the chambers a little more thoroughly.
You can also shoot .38 S&W rounds as well: an older, slightly shorter cartridge rarely seen these days but occasionally found. It was more widely seen in the early days of the .38 special (which replaced it in the S&W line with the triple lock) where people had the same question as your OP!
8 rounds of .38 spc., +P or .357, in a light revolver is well armed indeed!
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