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Yes factory at 100 is easy but I’m shooting out to 1000 yards is whyWith factory ammo groups like this. Why would one even reload? PS I'm still planning to reload, just testing bullets. I'm a sh*t shoot too, (2) 3 shot strings and 100yrds
I did need a new bolt and firing pin as either they've upgraded it or I had some erosion, but Lapua SRP is working well now with CCI 450's. Question: Do you know what the difference would be between the CCI 450 and CCI BR4 ?? I'll be testing it out but curious if anyone else has tested the difference.Yep, LRP primers have been hard to find.
One viable work-around is to switch to SRP brass like Lapua, Peterson, both top-notch quality, or Starline (an econo brand), and then prime with CCI450’s, which is their small rifle magnum primer. They seem to be in stock most of the time.
Just fair warning that some bolts/firing pin holes have too much gap, and are not SRP friendly and you may see pierced primers. Then you need to get your bolt bushed. I had no issues using SRP brass so far, and never needed to get a bolt bushed, but maybe i was just lucky. Lapua SRP brass lasts 20-25 reloads, making them cheaper per shot.
Maybe try to get one or two boxes of Berger factory match ammo, which uses Lapua SRP brass.
One way to beat the hoarders: Shoot what they don’t shoot.
You seem to be getting good accuracy and you are not stating you have over pressure issues so I would not worry about it.Hi all,
Just getting into reloading and have a bit of a conundrum. My barrel has a short throat and wondering if I should take any precautions on loading for it.
Setup is a Tikka with a PVA prefit. I've been shooting it awhile and have just over 1000rds on it. Since I had it put on it's had a "tight chamber". Factory 130 Berger FGMM has a very tight bolt close and Hornady 140 match has the same to a lesser extent. Both loads shot very well though.
I've recently got a reloading setup and have figured out where my lands are to develop my first loads. Turns out my throat is short. To seat 130 OTM Hybrids where they just touch the lands, I'm seating them shorter than the factory loads and just getting the bearing surface of the bullet into the neck/shoulder junction. Its a bit late to have the barrel sent back and corrected so I'm a bit stuck.
Looking for some guiding advice for a new reloader on this.
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll work up a load as normal then and watch for pressure signs. Figured I ask the question before running into a dangerous situation.You seem to be getting good accuracy and you are not stating you have over pressure issues so I would not worry about it.
The nice thing about reloading is being able to customize to the rifle. I would work up a load with factory OAL that shoots well.
If you can't get what you want, then tell us your load and ask for advice.
It would not be hard to change the throat with a reamer, but I would hold off.
Make sure you don’t have carbon build up causing a measuring issue, also compare shoulder length to factory. Are you neck turning too? I would also contact the barrel maker and just see what they say won’t hurt.Thanks for the thoughts. I'll work up a load as normal then and watch for pressure signs. Figured I ask the question before running into a dangerous situation.
I've seen some suggestions to use a throat reamer however I'm not sure what dimension I should be shooting for. I suppose I'd need to decide how much jump I'd want and consider magazine length but I'm trying to just get my feet wet first.
Since throat erosion is a real thing, why not wait until accuracy drops, then cut a new throat?Thanks for the thoughts. I'll work up a load as normal then and watch for pressure signs. Figured I ask the question before running into a dangerous situation.
I've seen some suggestions to use a throat reamer however I'm not sure what dimension I should be shooting for. I suppose I'd need to decide how much jump I'd want and consider magazine length but I'm trying to just get my feet wet first.
I keep a pretty clean throat to avoid a carbon ring and was using sharpie on the bullet to find the lands.Make sure you don’t have carbon build up causing a measuring issue, also compare shoulder length to factory. Are you neck turning too? I would also contact the barrel maker and just see what they say won’t hurt.
Hm I like that suggestion. I really don't want to start cutting steel unless it's absolutely needed since it shoots well already.Since throat erosion is a real thing, why not wait until accuracy drops, then cut a new throat?
At least then you are not risking anything if it goes sideways.
Hm I like that suggestion. I really don't want to start cutting steel unless it's absolutely needed since it shoots well already.
Sorry I was talking about case base to ogive measurement of your loads to a factory load to compare. I am still in learning mode so I may be all wet.Hm I like that suggestion. I really don't want to start cutting steel unless it's absolutely needed since it shoots well already.
Ah gotcha. I compared a factory loads (130 FGMM) to mine when set to just touch the lands and got around a .020 difference between CBTOs with the factory load being longer. I'll have to double check when I get back to my computer with the spreadsheets.Sorry I was talking about case base to ogive measurement of your loads to a factory load to compare. I am still in learning mode so I may be all wet.
From my understanding most start testing this way. Using preformed brass and (bumping the shoulder back .002-.003”then finding what powder charge has the most consistent groups.Quick update. Got back to my computer and the difference between a factory 130 FGMM CBTO and just touching the lands is 0.074. Which really seems excessive.
From my understanding most start testing this way. Using preformed brass and (bumping the shoulder back .002-.003”then finding what powder charge has the most consistent groups.
then
Touching lands then back away .003”.
Then in .002” or .003” increments keep backing away from the lands to find a node where the riffle shoots constant groups in three jumps in a row.) all same powder load and bullets.
-.003 so so group
-.006 “. “
-.009 “. “
-.012 “ great group
-.015”. Great group
-.018” Great group
-.021” ok group
-.024”. ok group
So .-012” to -.018 is your rifles node
There are some great shooters that explain this way better than me… check out Erik Cortina or F-Class Dave both Champions in long range shooting
I understand how to work up a load, my question was more centered on loading with a short throat in mind. Are there any safety concerns, things I should watch out for, how does seating the bullet deep affect the internal ballistics of the setup, etc? That sort of thing.Please understand that every rifle is different and factory ammo varies.
Most of all I am just learning all of this. Consistency in every step is the key factor always.
But power, bullets and cases are stay the same lot numbers if anything changes it may require finding a new node again.
Best of luck
Seating deeper raises pressure. Back off your powder charge if needed.I understand how to work up a load, my question was more centered on loading with a short throat in mind. Are there any safety concerns, things I should watch out for, how does seating the bullet deep affect the internal ballistics of the setup, etc? That sort of thing.
Seating longer raises pressures. Seating deeper is less pressure.Seating deeper raises pressure. Back off your powder charge if needed.
When you seat longer, closer to the lands when the bullet is fired it is still in the case and builds up pressure. If you load them short there is more bullet jump. It leaves the case before pressure builds. If you load close to the lands you need to back off on your powder charge.I understand how to work up a load, my question was more centered on loading with a short throat in mind. Are there any safety concerns, things I should watch out for, how does seating the bullet deep affect the internal ballistics of the setup, etc? That sort of thing.
have you had any issues with the 147 ELD-M blowing up? Sounded like they shot good for you?Unfortunately my Bartlein 26" barrel with H4350 and Hornady 140gn ELDM hates them and they shoot like crap. On the other hand it loves the 147gn and H4350.
No. No issues. I duplicated the load 4 times and shoots 1 hole every time. I will have to load up those 140gn ELDM with RL16 and see if I have any better luck.have you had any issues with the 147 ELD-M blowing up? Sounded like they shot good for you?
Is that your varmint load?So this was interesting... cold bore + 2 groups.
22" supressed Proof carbon prefit, 1/8
Lapua SRP Brass, cci 450
43gr of Varget
85gr Hammer Hunter
2.640" COAL
3290FPS
View attachment 7983867View attachment 7983868
Not sure. I was going to try the 124gr Hammer Hunters and just ordered the 85s because I thought that it would be fun to see how fast I could push them. I didn't think they would shoot this good or go that fast.Is that your varmint load?
Nice I have a 22" en route to me. Hope it shoots as good as yours!So this was interesting... cold bore + 2 groups.
22" supressed Proof carbon prefit, 1/8
Lapua SRP Brass, cci 450
43gr of Varget
85gr Hammer Hunter
2.640" COAL
3290FPS
View attachment 7983867View attachment 7983868
26” 1:8 twist is what see most often.I took a break from reloading for a few years while I moved and am in the process of setting up my new reloading room. I can't believe how much has changed. The reason I'm cluttering up this thread is I plan on ordering a new barrel in 6.5CM that I will definitely be using for load development. Any particular recommendations on twist, length, etc... since this thread began (58 pages ago!!)? Goal is to shoot out to 1000yds with confidence. Setup will be an AI AT with good glass. Just trying to decide between different pre-fit barrel options. Thank you all. First post DONE!
Chris
Seating deeper increases pressure because it reduces case volume, gordons reloading tool can be used to display thisWhen you seat longer, closer to the lands when the bullet is fired it is still in the case and builds up pressure. If you load them short there is more bullet jump. It leaves the case before pressure builds. If you load close to the lands you need to back off on your powder charge.
You’re gonna dieScored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.View attachment 8016526
My load with 147 eldm is 47.8gr rl26, shot hundreds and hundreds of them. Shot 10 today 3021 avg with 16.94 es and 6.53 sdYou’re gonna die
Slow that thing down.Scored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.View attachment 8016526
My load with 147 eldm is 47.8gr rl26, shot hundreds and hundreds of them. Shot 10 today 3021 avg with 16.94 es and 6.53 sd
I've been this fast with 2 different rifles, both 26" chambered by PVA, one a Rock Creek 1/8, and this osprey 1/7.5. Nucleus gen 1 and a zeus qc. Had 800 rounds on the nuke when I sold it, nearing 500 so far on this zeus.That is some smoking velocity.
Slow that thing down.
Let’s see some pics of the head stamp of that brass….My load with 147 eldm is 47.8gr rl26, shot hundreds and hundreds of them. Shot 10 today 3021 avg with 16.94 es and 6.53 sd
These have 7 firings on them so farLet’s see some pics of the head stamp of that brass….
Nice primer cratering and mark on handstamp. Looks like some pressure to me.These have 7 firings on them so far
Well....you are shooting a 6.5 creedmoor not a 6.5 PRC. Try slowing down between the 2700-2800 mark. You want good consistent case fill , if you are crunching powder which most likely im guessing you are, then you are going to get erratic crazy numbers.Scored some 140 Hybrids locally and decided to try the Satterlee method but I'm having trouble figuring out where I should investigate further. They are about .090 off the lands at 2.855, about as long as I can go with the Pmags though. Velocity is all taken from a labradar and using a griffin paladin suppressor. No pressure signs whatsoever not even a stiff bolt lift or ejector mark.View attachment 8016526
2850 would be easy with RL15.5What kind of velocity should I expect with a 22" barrel shooting 130s? Thinking about a shorter gun for PRS.