I've been running the 153.5's with 41.2 gr. R23 at 2590. You can't really get much more powder in the case. Most seem to use H4350 with a similar charge weight for velocities near 2700.
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Sorry y’all, so my barrel is a 26” MTU profile w a 7.5. tw. I’m loading w either 6.5 StayBall, h4350 or RL16.Fair point: Provide barrel length and twist rate as a minimum. Custom or factory barrel, etc. would also help.
The 150 SMK is a good bullet, and i got good results with a small jump (around 20 thou), but few people are using it, because of the unconventional minimum twist rate of 7.5, most 6.5 Creedmoor off-the-shelf rifles are 8.0 twist. Did not try a long jump.
Sierra apparently acquired Barnes Bullets, and they now make a 140 and a 145 MatchBurner bullet which looks very similar to the Sierra 150 SMK, and both work fine with an 8 twist barrel. The MatchBurner bullets are likely made by Sierra on behalf of their Barnes subsidiary. They are cheap and more easily available, and are basically a shortened version of the 150 SMK, but much more practical. The 145 worked quote well for me with a very long jump (>150 thou) in a factory barrel with 3000 plus rounds on it.
Sorry y’all, so my barrel is a 26” MTU profile w a 7.5. tw. I’m loading w either 6.5 StayBall, h4350 or RL16.
So far I’ve loaded up a few test rounds w the 150s that I haven’t had a chance to test yet due to life. But I worked them up from 41.9 to 43.1 w RL16. Hopefully I can get out to the range this week and fire them off… that said the 43.1 is somewhat compressed so we’ll see if I get to them wo pressure signs…..
Yeah, StaBall hasn't given me great SD's. But, it's available. H4350 is the best, but tough to find. Both StaBall and RL-16 seem temp sensitive to me. H4350 is as consistent as possible.Good! Your twist rate is fine for the 150 SMK, and i would expect them to shoot well.
Would recommend H4350 and RL-16, which previously gave me adequate speed and superb accuracy. Staball is likely fine for a plinking round, especially if you want to use a powder measure (well away from max pressure), but not ideal for long range work.
Btw: Recently developed a load for a buddy’s Tikka T3 using 6.5 Staball, and Hornady 140 BTHP, loaded on a milligram lab scale to one kernel of accuracy, using fully prepped weight sorted Nosler brass, aiming for the middle of a wide flat spot (node) at 2660 fps, and SD was very poor at 22.5 fps, with an ES of 64 fps. Hornady 147 ELDM Match factory ammo got an SD of 12-14 fps. Typically my handloads get 7-8 fps for SD.
IMHO: That large an ES makes the load unusable beyond 300 yards if you intend to hit 3” plates. Barrel temperature seems to drive these speed changes. Have given up on Staball.
Yeah, StaBall hasn't given me great SD's. But, it's available. H4350 is the best, but tough to find. Both StaBall and RL-16 seem temp sensitive to me. H4350 is as consistent as possible.
My latest loads with new Lapua SRP brass and 140 ELD-M's have given me my best SD's with StaBall, basically mid teems, like 16 ish. Factory Hornady 140 ELD-M match has an SD of about 7 for me.What was tour SD?
The rifle is quite new, so it is possible that the barrel is going through its speedup process, so maybe i was just unlucky.
Hmm, I don't see data for the 140 ELD-M's, but max charge would appear to be about 41.7 - 42.0 ish based on other 140's and the 143 ELD-X. If I can get it I'll try it out.Try N555 if you can get it. For my 6.5 CM with 142 SMK low SD and good groups.
Try N555 if you can get it. For my 6.5 CM with 142 SMK low SD and good groups.
Yeah I’ve heard that about Staball. I ended up getting 5# of the stuff when I couldn’t find anything else. I’ve since gotten 10# of h4350 so I’m set but I do want to use up my StaBall. The 150s I’m loading are w RL16 so we’ll see how it shoots.Good! Your twist rate is fine for the 150 SMK, and i would expect them to shoot well.
Would recommend H4350 and RL-16, which previously gave me adequate speed and superb accuracy. Staball is likely fine for a plinking round, especially if you want to use a powder measure (well away from max pressure), but not ideal for long range work.
Btw: Recently developed a load for a buddy’s Tikka T3 using 6.5 Staball, and Hornady 140 BTHP, loaded on a milligram lab scale to one kernel of accuracy, using fully prepped weight sorted Nosler brass, aiming for the middle of a wide flat spot (node) at 2660 fps, and SD was very poor at 22.5 fps, with an ES of 64 fps. Hornady 147 ELDM Match factory ammo got an SD of 12-14 fps. Typically my handloads get 7-8 fps for SD.
IMHO: That large an ES makes the load unusable beyond 300 yards if you intend to hit 3” plates. Barrel temperature seems to drive these large speed changes.
What ES and SD results are you guys getting with Staball?
Yeah I’ve heard that about Staball. I ended up getting 5# of the stuff when I couldn’t find anything else. I’ve since gotten 10# of h4350 so I’m set but I do want to use up my StaBall. The 150s I’m loading are w RL16 so we’ll see how it shoots.
Yeah I mean I have plenty of h4350 now so I just may have a lot of Staball sitting around for awhileYeah, shoot what you can find!
My buddy had the same problem, it was all that was available at the time, and it does ‘work’ as a medium range plinking load.
If you record zero offset in your ballistic calculator, you can take different ammo to the range and shoot the Staball load out to 300, then switch to your H4350 competition load and the calculated vertical and horizontal corrections will be very close.
Well, I have my StaBall complaints for sure, but it does shoot sub moa at 1,000 for me, and sub 0.5 moa at 100 when I do my part.Yeah, shoot what you can find!
My buddy had the same problem, it was all that was available at the time, and it does ‘work’ as a medium range plinking load.
If you record zero offset in your ballistic calculator, you can take different ammo to the range and shoot the Staball load out to 300, then switch to your H4350 competition load and the calculated vertical and horizontal corrections will be very close.
Good to know! I had similar results as far the placement of the nodes but not w those SDs. Maybe I’ll try for the higher node and see what I can get.I've had good luck with StaBall. Using 140 ELDms, I had single digit SDs in multiple places in a ladder test. I settled at 42.2 grains, with SD of 8.6 and velocity of 2775.
I also had single SDs at 43.4 and 44 grains, running 2875 and 2900 fps respectively. I settled on the 42.2 load cause the speed is fast enough and its consistent. It's easily a sub 1/2 minute load.
Gun is a 26" Proof research barrel.
I've had good luck with StaBall. Using 140 ELDms, I had single digit SDs in multiple places in a ladder test. I settled at 42.2 grains, with SD of 8.6 and velocity of 2775.
I also had single SDs at 43.4 and 44 grains, running 2875 and 2900 fps respectively. I settled on the 42.2 load cause the speed is fast enough and its consistent. It's easily a sub 1/2 minute load.
Gun is a 26" Proof research barrel.
CW | AVG | SD | ES | Group (MOA) |
42,0 | 2761 | 18 | 36 | 0,55 |
42,1 | 2808 | 22 | 43 | 0,54 |
42,2 | 2796 | 18 | 36 | 0,61 |
42,3 | 2777 | 19 | 36 | 1,07 |
42,4 | 2814 | 5 | 10 | 0,26 |
42,5 | 2771 | 2 | 3 | 1,01 |
42,6 | 2808 | 7 | 13 | 1,11 |
Been shooting LRP’s with the 6.5CM for the past 6 years or so. Considering switch my Lapua to SRP’s. What were your chrono numbers like before with LRP’s?View attachment 7933222
View attachment 7933225
So I’m a convert to the small rifle primer gang….
42.5 H4350
140gr Berger Elite Hunter
Lapua brass
CCI small rifle magnum primers
The best 10 shot group I’ve ever shot.
I wouldn't think you'd need to recalibrate the sizing die since it's setting max external dimensions and that's not changing. Anybody disagree? I'm still a bit new too.Ok... so here is a dumb question. Since I am switching over from one brass to another and I am still fairly new to this game... I want to recalibrate my headspace and resizing die.
Question is: I shot the 10 rounds as seen above. I have measured all of their dimensions w a Hornady headspace gauge.
So now I have 10 measurements.
N = 10
AVG / MEAN: 1.5582
STD: 0.0014944
MIN: 1.556
MAX: 1.5605
So I want to set my shoulder bump to 20 thou.... but which measurement do I use? The mean, the max, the min?
Thanks Y'all!
Are you using something other that a standard FL sizing die ?Ok... so here is a dumb question. Since I am switching over from one brass to another and I am still fairly new to this game... I want to recalibrate my headspace and resizing die.
Question is: I shot the 10 rounds as seen above. I have measured all of their dimensions w a Hornady headspace gauge.
So now I have 10 measurements.
N = 10
AVG / MEAN: 1.5582
STD: 0.0014944
MIN: 1.556
MAX: 1.5605
So I want to set my shoulder bump to 20 thou.... but which measurement do I use? The mean, the max, the min?
Thanks Y'all!
I just came across this and may have missed something 25 pages back, but I think you are looking at this incorrectly. I f you are switching brass mfg's, I would pay way more attention to your chrono data than worrying about headspace. The die will do it's job on the outside of the case, they should all be the same. What you can't control is the inside of the case, they are all not the same. I have one specific load, with a specific bullet and powder.( IMR 4064 and Nosler CC, or Midsouth MM, which is the same bullet) In a Remington, S&B, or Federal case, with 37.1gr, I get 2700fps, or very close to it. That is my 500 and in load. The bullets have a fairly low BC(.529) but I got them for .21 a piece and they are money to 500. The same charge and bullet in a Hornaday case is quite a bit slower. I save the Hornaday for HPBT match and ELD bullets, with H 4350. That load is 41.5gr.Ok... so here is a dumb question. Since I am switching over from one brass to another and I am still fairly new to this game... I want to recalibrate my headspace and resizing die.
Question is: I shot the 10 rounds as seen above. I have measured all of their dimensions w a Hornady headspace gauge.
So now I have 10 measurements.
N = 10
AVG / MEAN: 1.5582
STD: 0.0014944
MIN: 1.556
MAX: 1.5605
So I want to set my shoulder bump to 20 thou.... but which measurement do I use? The mean, the max, the min?
Thanks Y'all!
I couldn't ever get super low SD with staball in 6.5 either but it wasn't that bad either. I did get my 6cm to use staball and have wicked low SD and ES with 20 shots also. 6cm I use lapua SRP brass and 6.5cm is use Starline brassYeah, StaBall hasn't given me great SD's. But, it's available. H4350 is the best, but tough to find. Both StaBall and RL-16 seem temp sensitive to me. H4350 is as consistent as possible.
How are you measuring this? Also, I assume you mean .002" bump, not 20 thouOk... so here is a dumb question. Since I am switching over from one brass to another and I am still fairly new to this game... I want to recalibrate my headspace and resizing die.
Question is: I shot the 10 rounds as seen above. I have measured all of their dimensions w a Hornady headspace gauge.
So now I have 10 measurements.
N = 10
AVG / MEAN: 1.5582
STD: 0.0014944
MIN: 1.556
MAX: 1.5605
So I want to set my shoulder bump to 20 thou.... but which measurement do I use? The mean, the max, the min?
Thanks Y'all!
That is good info!! When I run out of H4350 I have 10# of Staball 6.5 to start another journey, I will definitely revisit this thread!I couldn't ever get super low SD with staball in 6.5 either but it wasn't that bad either. I did get my 6cm to use staball and have wicked low SD and ES with 20 shots also. 6cm I use lapua SRP brass and 6.5cm is use Starline brass
That is good info!! When I run out of H4350 I have 10# of Staball 6.5 to start another journey, I will definitely revisit this thread!
I shot 10 shots that load, AVG 2875, SD 19 ES 53. Group was 0,6 MOA.Test 42.4 over a long string.
So I was not decapping before I was taking my measurements. Now they are all within 0.001”. So I’m all good now. Thanks.How are you measuring this? Also, I assume you mean .002" bump, not 20 thou
Another method i use is to take a case and size it to 1.558 and make sure your bolt has zero resistance. (Make sure to remove firing pin). Then add a layer of scotch tape to the back of the case and see if you get resistance. That tape is .002" . If you do get resistance with tape then you are good, if not, keep adding a layer and then size to 2 or 3 though less than your total.
If you have sine 2x fired brass then you can also try sizing to .002 or .003 less than it measures and check to make sure you don't have resistance.
The lightest I've run are 123'sAnyone running light weight bullets 100-107 in the 6.5C? I have been thinking about using these in 600 yd tactical benchrest competition to compete with the 6mm guns. They seem to be running the 105's mostly.
Ah ha. There ya go. Good dealSo I was not decapping before I was taking my measurements. Now they are all within 0.001”. So I’m all good now. Thanks.
I shoot a 130 Berger OTM and use H4350 42.65gr - MV 2879- that's a bolt gunLooking for H4350 load data for the 130Gr A-Tip. Standard 42.x??
The Hornady app says 42.8 is the max for H4350. So, yeah, start at 42.0. COAL was 2.80.I shoot a 130 Berger OTM and use H4350 42.65gr - MV 2879- that's a bolt gun
I would start at 42 and go up from there depending on how fast you want to run it and of course what's safe in your gun.
Thank youThe Hornady app says 42.8 is the max for H4350. So, yeah, start at 42.0. COAL was 2.80.
The Hodgdon site also says the max with H4350 and a 140gr bullet is 40.0gr. I load 41.5 and many here are well over 42.5, just watch pressure. I believe load data has changed in the last 20 years, probably because of liability!The Hornady app says 42.8 is the max for H4350. So, yeah, start at 42.0. COAL was 2.80.
I think he said he's shooting a 130 grain A tip, Hornady s is a 135 I thought, either way it's 42.8 on their app. It'll be hot though.The Hodgdon site also says the max with H4350 and a 140gr bullet is 40.0gr. I load 41.5 and many here are well over 42.5, just watch pressure. I believe load data has changed in the last 20 years, probably because of liability!
My go to load is 42.5 H4350 w 140 ELDMs and 140 Berger Hybrids….. Lapua brass, never had any issues and have loaded to much hotter than that….. (disclaimer: I ladder tested to that and never take the internet for gospel, esp strangers on the internetI think he said he's shooting a 130 grain A tip, Hornady s is a 135 I thought, either way it's 42.8 on their app. It'll be hot though.
He did, that's why I shared my 130 gr otm loadI think he said he's shooting a 130 grain A tip, Hornady s is a 135 I thought, either way it's 42.8 on their app. It'll be hot though.
Hi,
I've been working load to my Tikka T3x action, Shilen selected match barrel 26".
VV N555 (others are hard to find in Europe)
ELD-M 147gr
210M
Sako brass, full sizing, bumping shoulder 0,002"
0,020" jump.
Caldwell chrono.
So i have tuner, but not sure what to select to tune, here are numbers:
CW AVG SD ES Group (MOA) 42,0 2761 18 36 0,55 42,1 2808 22 43 0,54 42,2 2796 18 36 0,61 42,3 2777 19 36 1,07 42,4 2814 5 10 0,26 42,5 2771 2 3 1,01 42,6 2808 7 13 1,11
3 shot groups, i think that 42,1 and 42,2 are best to next stage, tuner test based on group shape. But other hand data show low sd's 42,4 - 42,6. But groups are really wide. Except 42,4
Distance was 150m.
What you guys think?
I shot 10 shots that load, AVG 2875, SD 19 ES 53. Group was 0,6 MOA.
I think i must get labradar or bullet seeker, caldwell chrono showed that day my other load ES 233 fps with 10 rounds..
I managed to tune 42.5 gr groups to 0,4 MOA and for now i'm happy with it.Yeah, every crony has its own measurements error (SD), and even if 10 rounds could be fired at the exact same speed, it will show a non-zero SD due to measurement noise. For that cheap Made-in-China Caldwell device, the inherent inaccuracy of the instrument is likely well over 10 fps. Your load might have an SD of 5, but the instrument errors can skew the reading to 20. Sadly the data you have so far is mostly meaningless, recommend you get a good crony first.
I use a LabRadar and a MagnetoSpeed and they correlate very well. Almost identical SD’s, speed offset is small at around 9 fps. Presume the BulletSeeker would be of similar quality. I prefer the radar based devices as they are non-contact measurement, so no added weight that will alter your barrel harmonics and POI.
If you are on a budget, perhaps get the cheapest MagnetoSpeed, but remember to remove it before you start seating depth optimization, or adjusting the barrel tuner. It will also move your point of impact, but it is pretty good for load develipment (finding a speed flat spot/node) and 1/3 of the price of a LabRadar, and 1/4 of the BulletSeeker price.
I use a LabRadar and a MagnetoSpeed and they correlate very well. Almost identical SD’s, speed offset is small at around 9 fps.
Is the LabRadar's speed generally slower than the MagnetoSpeed?
Since the MagnetoSpeed is directly at the muzzle and the LabRadar is calculating the speed 15-20 yards down range.