6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

kombayotch

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 20, 2007
1,907
106
A friend was nice enough to lend me his collection of Tempilaq so that I could set up my CNC Annealer before ordering my own. Unfortunately, he needed it back, and I still haven't ordered some of my own. The reason for that is that I've been troubled by my observations not matching up with what is described in the 6mmbr Annealing Article and other information being thrown around in shooting forums, in terms of temperature values. Well, I decided to blow the dust off of the old Material Science book and look up the proper temperatures so that I could order the right temperature values of Tempilaq. Well, the numbers were completely different than what's written on 6mmbr, they were in every reference source, for every grade of brass similar to cartridge brass. The material science books all agreed with each other on one thing though: actual annealing BEGINS at 800 F, it doesn't end there.

Brass.jpg



I started thinking about it and realized that my annealer works quite a bit differently than the rotary ones... The computer controls the the exposure time to an accuracy of a few milliseconds. I push the case into the flame and pull it out of the flame much more quickly, without any pre-heating or post-heating from the rotation in the same axis of the flames. I thought about the differences, and then the obvious dawned on me: we're heating the cases with a torch and the flame is at a much higher temperature that we are trying to hit.

Propane.jpg


Its going to be even higher if you're forcing oxygen into it (which some torches do by design, without an addition tank) and higher with MAPP gas. So his assertions about holding the necks at any temperature for any lenght of time is not possible to do. Even being conservative about, you're still probably putting the case into an area of the flame that's over 2000 F. You're cases are going to shooting up in temperature until they either reach the same temperature as the flame, or you pull them out them. The heating is dynamic, there is no holding them at any temperature below the temperature of the flame, its always changing.

Now, brass isn't a perfect conductor, it takes time for it to heat up and for the grain structure to change once it does, but this still probably has a lot less of a lag to it than the time it takes for the heat to transfer to the Tempilaq and melt, which is much less thermally conductive than the brass. So, if you're using 750 F Tempilaq inside of the neck, the brass has probably exceeded 800 F when its only started to melt and has shot quite a ways past it when its fully melted. I saw this. If I put 750 F Tempilaq and 850 F Tempilaq in the same neck, it was not possible to get the 750 F Tempilaq to fully melt or even partially melt without the 850 F Tempilaq starting to melt. 800 F Tempilaq surely would have melted to some point in between. Parts of the brass itself were likely over 900 F. I could totally melt the 850 F Tempilaq without fully annealing the brass. I have to go a bit longer to succesfully do it. How do I know it wasn't fully annealed? Because it had the same spring back as the un-annealed brass does after resizing. I tests this with 0.0005" gage pins when I manually anneal (and whenever I resize) to know that the cases are actually holding consistent neck tension.

The numbers being put forth in that article are possibly based on his observations from heating with the torch while trying to measure temperatures in some way. But, he isn't taking the thermal lag of the measuring method into consideration, which is why the numbers don't agree with the science books. You aren't going to be able to accurately know what the temperature of the brass is heating it with a torch and trying measure it with an instrument or Tempilaq, due to these having much larger lags. The brass is changing temperature much faster than these can keep up with when you're sticking it in a torch. The only way to draw any kind of accurate description about things like what temperature glowing starts at are going to be to put the material in an oven, at a fixed known temperature and let it reach that temperature.

Its always bothered me that the setup instructions for these machines were only using one value of Tempilaq at a particular location. You can't put boundaries on a process from only one side, which is what you're doing of you're not putting a higher value of Tempilaq that shouldn't melt at the same location as one that should. This is what you should be doing if you're shooting for a certain temperature range. There will also be a lag and the true upper boundary will also be higher than the Tempilaq value though.

If the annealing of brass does happen above 800F. Then we're just overshooting the Tempilaq values due to the better conductivity of the brass under the fast heating of the torch. Its like controlling the Mars rover. It isn't going to stop where you see it on the screen when you tell it to. Its already gone past that point due to the lag in transmission. Maybe my machine has a different communication link than the other rovers, because if I go by 750 F Tempilaq melting, my brass isn't getting annealed. It would also explain why the 650 F Tempilaq works for some people. Different torches would make a difference too... This does make me wonder how many people actually verify their annealing by <span style="text-decoration: underline">measuring</span> the spring back in the necks before and after, rather than just taking the info at face value or going by color alone.

Maybe I'm way off here, but I'm having a lot of trouble buying that the shooting forums have it right and the metallurgists are wrong. Especially when my results and observations imply otherwise. I would really like to fully understand this process so that I can control it accurately. So, if I am out to lunch here, please point me to a credible scientific/engineering/manufacturing source that can explain the discrepancy.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

I am not schooled in metallurgy however what i see is that you are looking at only the lowest number on the scale for annealing not the range given (800 to 1400) what i see is that with a 2000* flame with the inside of the neck even at 900* you would not reach 1400* on the outside of the neck. if I am wrong please correct me i just don't see how the heat transfer could be that slow on a piece of brass that is that thin. I don't mean to offend anyone it just doesn't make sense to me.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Unfortunately, I don't any Tempilaq higher than 850 F since that was supposed to be the limit. However, what I do have is two values 100 F apart melting at the same time, which indicates that the brass is heating much faster than the paint can keep up with. Therefore, it is not a solid indicator of the highest temperature being reached.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unfortunately, I don't any Tempilaq higher than 850 F since that was supposed to be the limit. However, what I do have is two values 100 F apart melting at the same time, which indicates that the brass is heating much faster than the paint can keep up with. Therefore, it is not a solid indicator of the highest temperature being reached.</div></div>

Ok that makes sense to me.

Then i would say either the data is flawed or common knowledge is flawed I am leaning towards the data but i only have a small amount of practical experience brazing and am by no means any kind of authority on this subject.

Disclaimer: I do not anneal my brass yet. I am just trying to learn
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

I anneal, and the information offered by 6mmbr is nearly identical to that offered and used by numerous other sources on teh web, including the manufacturers of several annealing gizmos. I this for a fact, as I did a google search for annealing of rifle brass before I bought my annealing gizmo.

I have used and currently use the referenced process with sucess on my brass with my gizmo. I think its correct, as I can feel a differnce in seating pressure before and after annealing. Although I have not done a scientific study to verify that my ES and SD and as a result my verticle dispersion at 1,000 yards and beyond are reduced by using this process, that is the reason that I do it.

I suspect that you'll not get a definitive answer to your question through a discussion here, but suggest that maybe you want to conduct the study and see if you are correct. If you are, folks like me will thank you. It also occurs to me that the act of verifying the brass temperature sitting in the torch flame is not as accurate as anyone would like. As a result, the numbers we are dealing with are approximations and its possible given technology lag in the Tempaliqe liquid, we are actuallly using something akin to the numbers that you are referring to in your refernce materials.

I am also wondering as I write this response whether we are dealing with a definition mismatch, between the term "anneal" used on my brass and the term used in your source material. I work in a field where the same word can have several definitions, depending upon the area you are working in.

JeffVN
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

And does it really matter? If you get some annealing so that your brass cases last a long time through many reloads without cracking, and the seating and tensions are similar enough to give excellent accuracy...what REAL difference is it that the neck gets 850 degrees this time and 900 the next and maybe 775 the third round?
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Yes, you can no doubt setup the machine as described. I ended up doing it without the Tempilaq because the stuff I had didn't go to a high enough value. But, there goes process repeatability and checks... not to mention the consistency of the annealing itself.

It matters in the number of different values of Tempilac you need to buy in order to find that ones that serves as the right boundary flags. You can set the flame up to a consistent temperature by sticking a piece of tube stock in it and measuring its temperature at a fixed point above the flame once the temperature settles. That won't be the temperature of the flame, but if the temperature at that point is the same as the previous annealing session, the flame temperature should also be the same as it was if your room temperature is the same. I suppose with that, just using the same exposure time is enough, once you figure out what that needs to be...
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

What it ends up being is that you aren't using the Tempilaq to setup or fine tune the process initially. You're fine tuning the process by trial-and-error and then finding the right Temiplaq values to use as boundary flags so that you can verify things without all of the trial-and-error each time. Its only valid if the flame is also set to the same temperature.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

As the tempilaq is showing a delayed response, the brass may be getting to the appropriate annealing temperature. There won't be a real-time temp indication with this, but at least it is a repeatable measurement.

Wondering if anyone has tried using a lazer thermometer, such as a Raytek to get instant temp feedback during the process. I'm gonna try this when I start annealing. The lazers are problematic with shiny surfaces, so some kind of dull, but conductive coating material could be of benefit, although it will likely also interfere with heating and show a delayed temperature rise. Maybe some soot on the inside of the neck could work, but there would be a delayed heating, same as the tempilaq. Just postulating, any thoughts?
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

A laser thermometer is likely far too slow by the time it processes and displays the information.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A laser thermometer is likely far too slow by the time it processes and displays the information. </div></div>

My unit has a <500 milisecond response time and shows essentially real-time temp changes on the digital read-out. The infrared area measured is a 1 inch radius at 10 inches distance. Don't know if it will work, but it's worth a try in my estimation.

Here's the tech data: http://www.instrumart.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=10108
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

0.5 seconds is slow considering I'm annealing with a 1.2 second exposure time... that give you only 1 or 2 readings.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">And does it really matter? If you get some annealing so that your brass cases last a long time through many reloads without cracking, and the seating and tensions are similar enough to give excellent accuracy...what REAL difference is it that the neck gets 850 degrees this time and 900 the next and maybe 775 the third round? </div></div>

I make every effort to try and control all the variables that I can and be consistent with every step of my reloading process. However, I tend to side with FNP on this one in that the end result should be the final judge. With every step that we add or don't add to our reloading process the question that needs to be answered is how did it affect my down range results?

With the availability of annealing machines, at least the consistency of time in the flame can be controlled. I suppose to some level the temperature of the flame can be repeated as well. I don't have the luxury of owning one and would like to someday, so for now the low tech propane torch in a dark room is what I have to go with and has worked out well enough for me, at the moment.... If there was a way to control all the variables to the T I would do it so long as the returns in down range accuracy show that it's worth the time and effort to do so.

As far as tempilaq goes, I've only used the 400-450 deg tempil stiks on the case body about halfway down. My results regarding consistency on the necks were better just watching the change in color of the flame rather than the tempil stiks or laquer on or inside the necks. My main concern was not heating up the body/case head to a dangerous level. With your findings regarding the lag time between the actual temperature indication of the tempil material it does make me wonder what temperature I'm really at on the case body, but again, I haven't had any cases explode or separate, and I've got 20 loadings so far on my brass on fairly stiff loads. Just my opinion but I'm always open to learning more about making better ammo...
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">0.5 seconds is slow considering I'm annealing with a 1.2 second exposure time... that give you only 1 or 2 readings. </div></div>
FWIW,
I'm pretty sure that those exposure times are way too short unless you are using some super hot torches.
The typical exposure time for 308 Win is around three seconds.
http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/?action=view&current=annealer.mp4
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...240#Post1171240
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

In the end, probably no real difference. With my machine, I only have to set the flame to a consistent temperature, and the exposure time is repeatable.

What bothers me is information being presented as hard facts when data contradicts it (and in this case, published materials engineering charts). And that article is presented as gospel all over the web, when it is clearly not the definitive guide to annealing. The Tempilaq values required are different depending on the setup, the torch and even the torch setting. That is something I really noticed switching from the cheapo torches to the swirl flame torches with regulators. Yes, the old ones did require more like 3 seconds, but the swirl flame is hotter.

Its frustrating because there are many incorrect beliefs in shooting based on superficial observations rather than scientific data. And when you question them, the answers often amount to: "that's just the way the chicken bones fell..." Its refreshing that there are many guys like MontanaMarine who post actual data and challenge those notions, and guys like Bryan Litz who explain the real science behind stuff. No one benefits from incorrect information...
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

I've only begun annealing a few months ago, but it would seem that this subject has almost no definitive answers. It would be great if someone with a background in metallurgy and the equipment to test properly would take brass from all the major manufacturers and define a specific setup guide for each.

That seems to be one of the key factors making things so hard, is that brass from each manufacturer will behave differently due to differences in brass used, neck thickness, and cartridge design. Annealing lapua is not the same as annealing winchester.

Thus far, I have forgone the tempilaq and have been letting the cases tell me what they want. I have read that if you see a little flame creating, then that is bad, because that is the zinc burning out of the brass.

Zinc:
Melting Point: 419.58 °C (692.73 K, 787.24396 °F)
Boiling Point: 907.0 °C (1180.15 K, 1664.6 °F)

So, is there anyone with some knowledge that can differentiate between melting point and boiling point?

The way I have interpreted this is if you bring the cartridge neck up past 787f, the zinc will be cooked out of the brass which will ruin it.

I use the bench source machine, so I can set the time a case is in the flame very precisely. If I run a case too long, I see a little flame build on the case mouth. After it cools for a few minutes, the case mouth is VERY blue and very soft. If I take it out of the flame just before that happens, I end up with a light blue tint, similar to that found on lapua or military cases, and the case does not seem too soft.

I would very much love to hear more intelligent conversation from those experienced in metals on this topic.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Material thickness would certainly affect the rate of temperature climb, and the point at which you need to cut off the heat.

One thing I noticed with the hotter torches is that I don't get the blue color. The cases get fried before it ever appears. Not sure if that is due to the faster heating rate or the characteristics of the flame.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Kombayotch,
I think all the post here are in line. What you are working with is a partial annealing- just the neck. Your materials books are talking about annealing an entire sample. Its easy there: just put it into an oven and heat it to desired temp.

There are just simply too many variable to try and control when you do it with cases (necks) and no precise (means repeatable) way to measure temps. At the end of day all you can really do is control what you can, and that is the flame with your tip(s) and the time, and then experiment to see what works. I am willing to bet thats what the manufactures did, and then did their best to correlate it to the visual they got from tempilaq to give a frame of reference. I doubt they would claim anything to be absolute. Also consider that you dont just buy a annealing machine at Home Depot. These things are built by competition shooters, and I am sure they tested the process 27 ways to Sunday before they settled on what <span style="font-weight: bold">Works</span> not on what a materials book says should work

It would be interesting to know, since you can accurately measure spring back, if you can fine tune your process to a point where you see a repeatable difference in vertical or even case life based upon spring back rather than temp. Then once you get there go back to the templaq and see what it tells you. At the end of the day I am willing to bet you end up right where you started - with the manufactures suggested temps. If the machines and the manufactures recommendation didn't work you can be sure the forums (fora?) would be full of post from pissed off buyers.

All of this reminds me why I cherish my rockchucker, SAAMI chambers and winchester brass. Life is a lot simpler over here! Sioux
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Low Sioux</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What you are working with is a partial annealing- just the neck. Your materials books are talking about annealing an entire sample. Its easy there: just put it into an oven and heat it to desired temp.</div></div>

You're not really supposed to be partially annealing anything. What you're saying is that you're only annealing a portion of the case, which is true, and which is also the reason why you have to use a much hotter heat source; to take advantage of the thermal lag of the brass so that you don't cook the whole case. The black art in it is hitting the target temperature without overshooting it due to measurements that lag. Quite sure you're still hitting the temperatures in the book.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

It may be that you are hitting those higher temps and just that Templaq cant react fast enough confirm it. You may only be able use it as a relative indicator at best.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

According to it, my brass should be scrap right now because of the temperatures I've raised it to. Conversely, if I go by the 750 F Tempilaq suggested, by brass would not have been annealed.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..



You want to remember that the annealing result is a combination of time and temperature; less time means more temperature for the same result.

Given the number of variables in the process, I think you may be better served looking at the end result. There is data on the Internet for the amount of "spring" that should be left in the case neck. Adjust your set up however you need to to produce good results.

Have you noticed any "hot spots" on the necks with your torch set up and short heat time?

Good shooting!
Ron
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

There were hot spots if you got the cone of the flame too close to the cases with the old pencil torches in the videos. But none since I've switched to the JT539 torches. There is no blue cone, its just a big jet of blue flame. Anneals very evenly.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Sounds like y'all are going WAY too damn fast with your heat.

1.3 seconds, 3 seconds....holy shit, man.

Blazing fast (pun there, likely).

Having spent a good portion of a previous life centrifugally casting metal alloys to a +/- honestock tolerance of .020", heating metal for any accurate result is all about time vs. temperature. Just like baking a cake.....

And tempilaq is, at best case scenario, still only a rough estimate. Applying to the outside of the case neck is a no go, and applying to the inside of the case neck is still being affected to an extent by heat wash from the flame circulating inside the case mouth. A waste of perfectly good time/effort/money...IMO.

I made this collar that covers the air intake on my torches. Moving it up or down changes the effect of the flame by increasing or reducing the oxygen flow to the flame. It's been my experience that fast annealing is bad, and a much slower approach is best.

Adjusting the flame with my collar to reduce the oxygen intake actually makes the flame cooler, rich fuel/lean O2 (carbonizing flame), and thus the time/temp relationship on thin brass necks can be more effectively judged, and thus more control on/of the process. Simply turning the "heat down" with the torch's control doesn't facilitate the same results. I'm sure there are torches out there that provide the same thing as my collars do, this was just a simple fix for the torches I have.

In contradiction of someone somewhere, I'm sure, but you want a long, cool, lazy flame to properly anneal cases. I ONLY anneal freshly tumbled (bright/shiney) brass, and in dark room lit only by the torch flame. I have case holders made to accept different case heads/lengths, and are spun by a slowly rotating battery drill. I hold the case neck/shoulder in my cool and lazy flames until I see the first sign of a very dull red color appear on the neck itself, easily seen in the dark room on the clean brass. The spinning shell holders allow me to simply dump the case out into a bucket of quench water. I quench only to stop cold (pun there, and I'm killing me with these) the progression of heat beyond the case neck/shoulder, I want it no further than that. My cases come out with an extended life, a perfect neck tension, still clean and bright...but with that familiar blueish hue on the necks/shoulders that comes on new Lapuas.

Sorry, no fancy expensive annealing gizmos to muddle up the process......K.I.S.S, heavily applied.

annealingtorch.jpg
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Kris,

My understanding was that if you do the process at the lower temperature while you may not get 100% annealed (which some people think is too much of a good thing) you should still get some meaningful amount of stress relieving going on. In the end, what we're (or at least *I* am) doing this for is to counteract the work-hardening of the necks due to firing and resizing, etc. If it doesn't get completely annealed, but some/most of the work hardening is taken care of by the stress relief... I'm good with that
wink.gif


I tend to use slightly lower temps for a longer time per case - 5-6 seconds for a .308 Win per the directions that came with my annealer unit (Brass-O-Matic) and no problems noted yet. I have thought about getting one of the simple non-contact IR laser temp guns like we use at work for things... lord knows they are cheap enough and available at auto/hardware stores these days.

Monte
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Ok, lots of guys throwing out their annealing methods and saying how they work great. Well, let me ask you this: how do you know that you've actually annealed (or stress relieved) the brass enough?

Here is how I know that I have:

We all know the bushing selection routine: choose a bushing 0.001" smaller in dia. less than your desired sized case neck OD (varies a bit with caliber). With the amount of spring the brass is supposed to have, the neck pops back to about 0.001" larger in dia. than the bushing when it comes out. Pretty consistent with what I see in new cases...

I don't test neck tension by measuring the OD though. I do it by measuring the ID with gage pins. These are precision ground pins that are accurate to 0.0005" +/- 0.00002". You can specify whether you're getting a pin with a '+' tolerance, or one with a '-' tolerance (I like -ve). You use them like GO / NO-GO gages to determine the size of a hole. With new cases (sized), the IDs usually end up all within 0.0005" of each other. As the case necks get harder, they start to resist the re-sizing and I eventually have to go down in bushing sizes and squeeze them more in order to get the same neck tension. And, I start to see larger variation in neck IDs after sizing.

Annealing them makes them soft and more malleable once again. So, if I take the bushing size I was originally using and size a properly annealed case with it, it should only spring back about 0.001" (like a new case). And it does, when annealed. If it still springs back more, say +0.002", the case hasn't been annealed. I want to get my brass to the proper point, but no more than is required. So, I use a Lee hand press with a sizing die and some gage pins to test this right in the shop when setting up my annealing process (manual or automated).

If you've got something better, please share. Need something that doesn't require a trip to the range, and it needs to be more concrete than a pretty color or a nice warm feeling in the belly.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

So how do you know when you have gone too far? Is going too far an instantanious thing? what happens to the spring back? if you go too long are you compromising neck tension, or the hardness in the case body or both. how do measure issues with the case body? I know what theory says is supposed to happen I just wonder if it follows your actual results. You seem to be doing a good job of quantifying your results. thanks
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry, no fancy expensive annealing gizmos to muddle up the process......K.I.S.S, heavily applied.</div></div>

You really think the people that designed the bench source annealer or ken light's machine had not been exactly where you are and done it exactly how you do it?

If you really feel that K.I.S.S. should be applied to every aspect of your life, I expect that you don't drive a car but use a horse as your daily transportation correct? Or perhaps you still use an open fire and kettle as your main source of making food?

While you may claim these machines "muddle up the process" we will continue to enjoy the precision and repeatability offered by these machines. When annealing it is important that each case be in the flame for exactly the same amount of time, and the flame be positioned on the case exactly the same each time. If you can do that with your hand-held torch better than these machines do, then I will concede. However, I do not believe annealing is an area where KISS applies.

Having said that, these machines are not for everybody. Some cannot afford them. Some do not do enough volume to justify the purchase. Some do not have the room to set them up. Whatever the reason, lets be honest and agree that it sure as hell isn't because doing it by hand is somehow better and achieves more consistent results.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Kris,

Its not as high-tech as your method but I can usually feel the slightly increased drag on the expander ball as it comes through the neck after annealing. Between the bushing size and what not, mine is usually set to where the ball just 'kisses' on the way out. Enough to make sure everything is round and the neck ID is essentially set to the carbide ball OD, which works passably well for me
wink.gif


Monte
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Penguin....

You're assuming my panties are wadded up because you use an annealing machine. Couldn't give a shit actually, but lot's are quick to jump on the good old fashion know-how it takes to do it without one...somehow convinced it's no good because there are now fancy expensive annealing gizmos available.

A lesson for you to remember before you run your mouth the next time; there are still folks out there who are perfectly happy, and perfectly capable, of living their lives without the zombie like dependence on technology and the latest wonder gizmos. And yes, I burn wood for heat, and on purpose......
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Well, let me ask you this: how do you know that you've actually annealed (or stress relieved) the brass enough?</div></div>

I anneal for two very basic reasons. The first is to extend the life of my brass, and since fireforming AI chamberings puts a ton of stress on the brass right out of the gate, this reason is fairly important to me. The other reason is to help maintain the level of "accuracy" originally constructed with a load work-up. Some equate that to neck tension alone, but I want my shoulders to bump just as easily and consistantly as new brass, too. When those two end result goals are met via whatever method of annealing I choose to use then I'm satisfied enough that the annealing process worked as intended. How you do it is completely up to you, and I could care less, but don't discredit those with the ability to do it without making it a NASA moon shot.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you've got something better, please share. Need something that doesn't require a trip to the range, and it needs to be more concrete than a pretty color or a nice warm feeling in the belly. </div></div>

I reload to shoot more, not really just for the sake of reloading. I do enjoy reloading but as my above sentiment also states the end result is beyond the reloading part. A trip to the range is easily had since my range is a mere couple hundred yards up the road at the cattle gate, so it's not really much trouble at all to go there. In fact, that's the main goal to begin with.

As far as annealing brass cases, I think you quickly reach a point of diminishing returns with it. You are assuming that the very metalurgic make up of the brass was constructed with the same anal retentive precision that you are trying to achieve with annealing it. Can you verify that each and every piece of brass is made exactly and precisely the same as the next? Since you are going to these extreme lengths to realize the goal of a perfectly annealed case, then you must be able to determine if the raw material is worthy of the efforts. There are a very many different grades of "brass" and each brass manufacturer uses something a little different. Brass is an alloy and within each specific manufacturer there is a range of plus/minus "good-enough" for the recipe that fits their quality specs. It's my opinion that your determination to anneal their brass is to a tighter tolererance than what they've provided for you in a raw material. You must adjust your plus/minus expectations to meet their plus/minus results in quality standards...else you may be pissing in the wind.

If your measuring with pins to quantify your fret over neck tension then you are FAR beyond where I even want to be in the end result. To see any measureable difference in real world conditions would require an incredible shooter, and an incredible rifle. Cudos if that's you. Carry on with your rocket science, it is interesting, but many are simply satisfied with understanding the physics involved and living within the law of averages that basically achieve the same goals in the end.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killer Penguin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thus far, I have forgone the tempilaq and have been letting the cases tell me what they want. I have read that if you see a little flame creating, then that is bad, because that is the zinc burning out of the brass.

Zinc:
Melting Point: 419.58 °C (692.73 K, 787.24396 °F)
Boiling Point: 907.0 °C (1180.15 K, 1664.6 °F)

So, is there anyone with some knowledge that can differentiate between melting point and boiling point?

The way I have interpreted this is if you bring the cartridge neck up past 787f, the zinc will be cooked out of the brass which will ruin it. </div></div>

Melting the metal takes it froma solid form to a liquid form. Think of melting solder if you do electronics or plumbing. When you boil the liquid metal you start producing fumes. You've added enough energy (heat) to overcome the surface tension of the liquid. Since you are commenting on he colored flame that is the metal fume burning in the flame. As an aside, vapors are from evaporated liquid, alcohol, acetone, thinners, solvents, etc. Fumes are from metals, solder, brazing, welding, casting, etc.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

I should add that at some point you can/will also seperate your alloy in melting/soldering. That is one of the causes of "dead" solder. The metals, in solder's case lead and tin, have seperated and cooled with different grain structures resulting in that dark chewed up irregular surface.

It would sound reasonable that heating a case past the temperature that a metal in the alloy will burn, zinc at 787 degrees, that it would remove metal from the alloy. To a point this is true but the amount that discolors the flame is similar to the ammount etched out out of the surface by some cleaning processes.

Melting points: degrees F
Copper: 1984
Zinc: 787
Cartridge Brass 70/30: 1680 (actually refered to as cartridge brass in this alloy.)

Heating past 800 (787) would start crystalizing zinc in the alloy and causing weakness in the alloy. This could be why the 750 degree indicator is used. There would be some carry over heating that would go over 750 if the paste melts at 750. The thickness of the paint would also make the thicker parts melt a touch slower than the thin spots. This could also add to carry over heating.

I'd like to suggest that at the higher temperature and shorter time that the swirled flame torch is producing that I think you may be heating the air and templaq, but not penetrating the thickness of the case neck with the shorter duration. In effect making something similar to a thermostat spring where, in this case, the surfaces of the neck have been softened but there is a slightly harder layer between the surfaces.

Since Winchester and Lapua have very prominent annealing indications left on them maybe you should direct some questions their way. There is probably an engineer someplace that would like to describe what they do and how they do it.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Melting point is when a solid starts to transform into a liquid.

Boiling point is when a liquid starts to transform into a "gaseous" state.

Not really sure about brass, but most combinations of base materials (in this case a metal alloy) change the properties by which the base materials melt/boil/condense/freeze.

For example salt water vs tap water, or tap water vs distilled water. The general rule of thumb is plain old tap water will freeze at 32 degrees F and boil at 212 degrees F, at sea level. But add salt to it, or take minerals completely out of it, and those values change.

The layman's term regarding a brass alloy is "in solution". All kinds of weird stuff happen when things are mixed in a melted state to make an alloy of metal. The zinc in brass will then react differently than pure zinc itself since it's physically and chemically bonded to the other ingredients in the brass alloy...which by the laws of physics and chemistry will change it's own physical and chemical properties.

Generally it is a LOT harder to extract a component of an alloy than it is to add it in, although I do remember having an epic failure trying to add pure antimony to a lead bullet mix. I simply couldn't reach the right temperature with my equipment.

I seriously doubt annealing temperatures will remove any meaningful amount of zinc.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I anneal for two very basic reasons. The first is to extend the life of my brass, and since fireforming AI chamberings puts a ton of stress on the brass right out of the gate, this reason is fairly important to me. The other reason is to help maintain the level of "accuracy" originally constructed with a load work-up. Some equate that to neck tension alone, but I want my shoulders to bump just as easily and consistantly as new brass, too. When those two end result goals are met via whatever method of annealing I choose to use then I'm satisfied enough that the annealing process worked as intended. How you do it is completely up to you, and I could care less, but don't discredit those with the ability to do it without making it a NASA moon shot.</div></div>

That doesn't answer the question. You've explained why you anneal, but not how you verify that its been done correctly.

Its fascinating to me that many people are undertaking an exercise that's meant to restore the ductility of the brass, but aren't doing any kind of verification on the brass afterwards that actually checks ductility has been restored (not saying you aren't, don't know since you haven't said). If you're goal is to restore ductility, you need to test that in some way (can be as simple as Monte's method, but you need some kind of check), and not just look at a color or follow some directions and hope or assume that you have.

Like setting up the shoulder bump with a FL resizing die, if you follow the manufacturer's directions, sure it'll chamber and go bang. However, there's a good chance that you're over sizing the brass and setting the shoulder back too far. You may be doing it just fine, but unless you actually measure the shoulder setback in some way, you really don't know for sure that its right.

There is nothing NASA level being done here, just some very simple verification tests that confirm I've affected the thing I'm trying to affect in the way I set out to affect it. No more over the top than measuring things like shoulder setback or runouts. And I'm sure as heck going to check a few cases to see if they're being annealed correctly before running the rest of the batch of 2000 through the machine.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I seriously doubt annealing temperatures will remove any meaningful amount of zinc.</div></div>

I would agree with that based on the simple fact that most of the zinc is surrounded by copper, so even if you turn it to liquid, its still encased in the solid copper. The only zinc that could be lost is the zinc that's exposed at the surface of the material.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Low Sioux</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So how do you know when you have gone too far? Is going too far an instantanious thing? what happens to the spring back? if you go too long are you compromising neck tension, or the hardness in the case body or both. how do measure issues with the case body? I know what theory says is supposed to happen I just wonder if it follows your actual results. You seem to be doing a good job of quantifying your results. thanks </div></div>

If you go too far, the spring back is lost. Going too far is much easier to detect than not going far enough. Just apply moderate pressure to the neck against a sharp edge and if it dents, you've gone too far. You can judge pressure by comparing to an un-annealed case.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
That doesn't answer the question. You've explained why you anneal, but not how you verify that its been done correctly.

</div></div>

I most certainly did answer the question....

It's simply the results obtained...sorry, I can't complicate it any more than that for you.

The If/Then logic applies...IF the results are correct within the expected parameters, THEN the process is doing as was intended. I stated my cases last longer and that accuracy is maintained, therefore my cases are getting properly annealed.

I didn't invent the process, but I understand it.....
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

I recently got one of those bench source annealing machines.I have 2 propane burners hooked up to it.I noticed the same thing you were describing about the case not looking like it was annealed at all.It's a good thing I tested the necks for spring back on a few off cases,otherwise if I had judged off color alone I would have ruined 700 cases worth a buck each.What worked best was 4.2 seconds.The case necks were not turning red hot yet in a dark room.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

That doesn't answer the question. You've explained why you anneal, but not how you verify that its been done correctly.

</div></div>

The only way I know to determine exactly what you have done is with a Hardness Testing Machine and test to the original specification as found in your first post. To get a large enough flat to test on may require cutting the neck off and unrolling it.

Also you would need to test enough samples to be statistically significant, which would be easy enough if you were processing thousands, but tough for small batches.

Otherwise we use "tests" such as spring back, which aren't really hardness tests, but indications of hardness that are not necessarily linked very closely to the hardness that we are looking for.

Good shooting
Ron
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steve123</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I recently got one of those bench source annealing machines.I have 2 propane burners hooked up to it.I noticed the same thing you were describing about the case not looking like it was annealed at all.It's a good thing I tested the necks for spring back on a few off cases,otherwise if I had judged off color alone I would have ruined 700 cases worth a buck each.What worked best was 4.2 seconds.The case necks were not turning red hot yet in a dark room. </div></div>

Just to keep hammering on one point often overlooked...

The brass that you were observing a "color" on was clean bright brass, yes or no?

A lot of guys make the mistake of thinking that dull oxidized brass is reaching the same temp as bright shiney brass when whatever shade of "red" is achieved. The oxidized surface skews the results when judging by color alone.

Clean bright brass, dark room, and the first stage of a DULL DULL DULL red color change, NOT bright red.

At least that's the consistent control that works just fine for me.....
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

Yes,both cleaned in ultra sonic and polished as well.I had the blue pointed part of the flame on both flames about 3/8ths from the shoulder/neck.

Maybe next time I'll try one torch in stead of two for more duration??? I didn't have Tempilac but used a 650 degree stick.The residue was melted.I'm trying to err on the side of relaxed brass rather than ruined brass
wink.gif
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

To the posters wanting to use a raytek. It won't work very well. The emissivity
of brass with any oxide on it is so low you can't come close to getting a reading.
Super clean brass it will, but when you start to heat it all bets are off.
I have read enough websites on brasses properties over the years to see that the
general knowledge on the shooting forums is correct on temp ranges. We are
not looking for totally annealed necks. I find if I am in a completely dark room
with only the propane torch for light that as soon as I see any glow in the brass
it is done. That is a deep maroon color not orange. If any outside light enters
the basement, even not blocking under the door with a towel it extends the time
needed to see the glow by 4 or 5 seconds. Of coarse younger eyes are going to
see things a little better than mine.
Two indicators work for me. One is simply squeezing the neck in my calipers
.002" and making sure it springs back. If it's too hard I can tell by the cut my
trimmer does or doesn't take. In the end the chrono and the group sizes tell
all.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just to keep hammering on one point often overlooked...

The brass that you were observing a "color" on was clean bright brass, yes or no?
</div></div>

Fresh from tumbling in SS media. Doesn't get any cleaner or brighter than that...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
That doesn't answer the question. You've explained why you anneal, but not how you verify that its been done correctly.

</div></div>

I most certainly did answer the question....

It's simply the results obtained...sorry, I can't complicate it any more than that for you.

The If/Then logic applies...IF the results are correct within the expected parameters, THEN the process is doing as was intended. I stated my cases last longer and that accuracy is maintained, therefore my cases are getting properly annealed.

I didn't invent the process, but I understand it..... </div></div>

It isn't about making anything more complicated, its about quantifying a result in some way. Those that can't do that, usually resort to repeating that what they do works, over and over again, without explaining how that's verified other than the old "how it looks on paper" routine. A subjective measurement, that no one else can verify...

That's fine. Use it if it works for you. I'll stick to indicators like spring back.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

That you can't wrap your mind around the quantities of "accuracy maintained" and "extended case life" is more than telling. My opinion is that you are searching for something critically definate within a range of acceptable averages, and therefore basically picking a nit for the fun of making it over-complicated. To each his own.

Carry on.....and Merry Christmas.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ron Morrison</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

That doesn't answer the question. You've explained why you anneal, but not how you verify that its been done correctly.

</div></div>

The only way I know to determine exactly what you have done is with a Hardness Testing Machine and test to the original specification as found in your first post.</div></div>

You don't need to know the exact hardness to know if you're in the right area. Its much like reading pressure indicators on your brass; it won't give you an exact pressure, but it'll tell you what region your in.
 
Re: 6mmbr's annealing temperatures seem questionable..

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That you can't wrap your mind around the quantities of "accuracy maintained" and "extended case life" is more than telling. My opinion is that you are searching for something critically definate within a range of acceptable averages, and therefore basically picking a nit for the fun of making it over-complicated. To each his own.

Carry on.....and Merry Christmas. </div></div>

Merry Christmas to you too.

But, the two things you've listed are qualitative, not quantitative. That's very basic, and that you don't understand the difference is what is telling.

Lets just agree to disagree...