7mm PRC

So long Hornady..

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Anyone having trouble with stuck 7 PRC Hornady brass? I've been loading for 25 years and can count on one hand the number of stuck cases I've had...until today. 8 in a row with a Redding Type S, bushing and decap rod removed, cleaned 3x, well lubed cases with Hornady, Dillion, Lee and RCBS case lube (tried each). Die wasn't set deep enough to set the shoulder back any and I didn't get abnormal ram pressure until the last 1/2".

The difference in diameter just above the web from factory new ammo and fired is 0.002" (.528 v/s .530 respectively). I've surrendered for the day and resorted to bourbon to contemplate my failure. WHAT THE HELL AM I MISSING?

Barrel was cut by PVA.

Commence fire...
 
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@Rumlover I'm not sure what was causing it but I had a 300 RUM Redding FL die I bought second hand that I could not size a piece of brass without sticking it. I ended up chucking the die and carrying on with life.

@Kaizoku I'm not sure how much you shoot but I like 200 pcs of brass, a couple matches I shoot require that many, Also to be noted I've been looking at taking a 3 day course and they want 300 rounds so I might grab some more.
 
@Rumlover I'm not sure what was causing it but I had a 300 RUM Redding FL die I bought second hand that I could not size a piece of brass without sticking it. I ended up chucking the die and carrying on with life.

@Kaizoku I'm not sure how much you shoot but I like 200 pcs of brass, a couple matches I shoot require that many, Also to be noted I've been looking at taking a 3 day course and they want 300 rounds so I might grab some more.
Grifters had a 2 box limit. I have 200ct of peterson ordered but I'm hearing October
 
@Kaizoku I'm not sure how much you shoot but I like 200 pcs of brass, a couple matches I shoot require that many, Also to be noted I've been looking at taking a 3 day course and they want 300 rounds so I might grab some more.

I've run into that as well. I'm up to 150 now, only got 1 box from drifters. I saw a list somewhere that many of the adg dealers are getting their brass in this shipment, so should be coming available
 
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@Rumlover I'm not sure what was causing it but I had a 300 RUM Redding FL die I bought second hand that I could not size a piece of brass without sticking it. I ended up chucking the die and carrying on with life.

@Kaizoku I'm not sure how much you shoot but I like 200 pcs of brass, a couple matches I shoot require that many, Also to be noted I've been looking at taking a 3 day course and they want 300 rounds so I might grab some more.
Update: the issue with sticking cases was solved with the Redding imperial die wax. Redding said something about the larger PRC case design makes them prone to sticking in the die. I had tried numerous brands of die lube that all failed, imperial was the solution.
 
Thinking of building one of these. Reload so that helps. Don’t want hornady brass so it’s good to see adg and Peterson But it’s oos everywhere.

just need to decide on a long action.

what dies are recommended for the 7prc?
 
Thinking of building one of these. Reload so that helps. Don’t want hornady brass so it’s good to see adg and Peterson But it’s oos everywhere.

just need to decide on a long action.

what dies are recommended for the 7prc?
You're going to want something that sizes tightly at the base, if in a 533 base saami chamber, it'll get clickers like it's 65 and 300 brethren. In the 65 version, I found RCBS matchmaster dies to size the tightest, besides a $230 bullet central FL bushing die. I use the matchmaster dies for several cartridges, they're pretty solid for the price. A custom 535 base chamber solves a lot of this. That dimension is at the 0.200 line.
 
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One last question. While looking at prefits for an origin, I see preferred barrel blanks has a 7mm prc reamer with a .233 fb and a .319 neck. Would this be the aw spec reamer?

7prc brass is oos everywhere I look!
 
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One last question. While looking at prefits for an origin, I see preferred barrel blanks has a 7mm prc reamer with a .233 fb and a .319 neck. Would this be the aw spec reamer?

7prc brass is oos everywhere I look!

Get on the email notification for Petersen brass at grafs. They've been releasing some everyday. Didn't get a notice today however.
 
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Anyone having trouble with stuck 7 PRC Hornady brass? I've been loading for 25 years and can count on one hand the number of stuck cases I've had...until today. 8 in a row with a Redding Type S, bushing and decap rod removed, cleaned 3x, well lubed cases with Hornady, Dillion, Lee and RCBS case lube (tried each). Die wasn't set deep enough to set the shoulder back any and I didn't get abnormal ram pressure until the last 1/2".

The difference in diameter just above the web from factory new ammo and fired is 0.002" (.528 v/s .530 respectively). I've surrendered for the day and resorted to bourbon to contemplate my failure. WHAT THE HELL AM I MISSING?

Barrel was cut by PVA.

Commence fire...
Pour me a drink, too. I will sit with you. I don't hand load. I have been doing okay, so far, with factory. But I have contemplated handloading, just for availability of supply. You never know what the market is going to do.
 
You're going to want something that sizes tightly at the base, if in a 533 base saami chamber, it'll get clickers like it's 65 and 300 brethren. In the 65 version, I found RCBS matchmaster dies to size the tightest, besides a $230 bullet central FL bushing die. I use the matchmaster dies for several cartridges, they're pretty solid for the price.

where can these be found in 7prc? I’m striking out. The matchmaster.

Thanks

edit: grafs has 4 in stock!
 
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Now I just need some h1000! Closest I’ve got to that would be retumno.

Dies, bushings, and mandrels on the way.
I’ve heard that StaBall HD is an option, but I haven’t loaded any yet. Next week, I should have all pieces parts in hand and the dies and components. But I do still have H1000 left from my .338 LM. I consider myself lucky.
 
Update: the issue with sticking cases was solved with the Redding imperial die wax. Redding said something about the larger PRC case design makes them prone to sticking in the die. I had tried numerous brands of die lube that all failed, imperial was the solution.
I've been using the Redding Imperial wax for 15 years. It's the only lube I use. I'm currently getting components and dies and setup for building/buying a 7mm PRC in the near future. I have the Redding Elite Series Type-S Deluxe bushing set (bush FL, bush Neck, Comp Seater). They weren't cheap, so I hope they're cut properly. I'll be running SAC .310 bushings for the Hornady brass with the Berger 175 Elite Hunters, which will give me exactly .003" neck tension. I've got 150 pcs of Hornady 7 PRC brass, because I found it for just over $1 each, and figured it was good enough to get started, when I do finally get the rifle. It will be a hunting rifle, and not a bench rifle, so 150 pcs. should last quite a long time, as I don't bench test my hunting rifles, unless I'm developing a new load for them or zero'ing a new scope. Outside of that, they are hunting only to conserve barrel life. Probably going to be running Winchester StaBall HD, or maybe IMR 7977, but being that it's impossible to find, I hate to burn through my remaining stash. I hope Hodgdon starts making 7977 and 8133 again.

Took this the other day just to compare, as I'm a life-long 7mm RemMag hunter, and the 7mm PRC should be the perfect precision hunting cartridge for long action 700 style rifles, because you should be able to seat the 175-195gr bullets just off the lands and still fit and feed perfectly in the magazine. Ran ballistics on them both, and performance seems damn-near identical, but you get a shorter fatter case in the PRC, but retains nearly the exact same H2O capacity. I like the concept.

IMG_1886.jpeg
 
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I've been using the Redding Imperial wax for 15 years. It's the only lube I use. I'm currently getting components and dies and setup for building/buying a 7mm PRC in the near future. I have the Redding Elite Series Type-S Deluxe bushing set (bush FL, bush Neck, Comp Seater). They weren't cheap, so I hope they're cut properly. I'll be running SAC .310 bushings for the Hornady brass with the Berger 175 Elite Hunters, which will give me exactly .003" neck tension. I've got 150 pcs of Hornady 7 PRC brass, because I found it for just over $1 each, and figured it was good enough to get started, when I do finally get the rifle. It will be a hunting rifle, and not a bench rifle, so 150 pcs. should last quite a long time, as I don't bench test my hunting rifles, unless I'm developing a new load for them or zero'ing a new scope. Outside of that, they are hunting only to conserve barrel life. Probably going to be running Winchester StaBall HD, or maybe IMR 7977, but being that it's impossible to find, I hate to burn through my remaining stash. I hope Hodgdon starts making 7977 and 8133 again.

Took this the other day just to compare, as I'm a life-long 7mm RemMag hunter, and the 7mm PRC should be the perfect precision hunting cartridge for long action 700 style rifles, because you should be able to seat the 175-195gr bullets just off the lands and still fit and feed perfectly in the magazine. Ran ballistics on them both, and performance seems damn-near identical, but you get a shorter fatter case in the PRC, but retains nearly the exact same H2O capacity. I like the concept.

View attachment 8249333
That and the 7 PRC is not belted.

I think most guys who already have a 7 RM don't have to get a 7 PRC. But they probably will because it is cool.

For me, it is my first 7 and first long action. In fact, the MDT mag I am using for it is their mag for .300 WM. The 7 PRC is just a little shorter than the 300 WM.
 
That and the 7 PRC is not belted.

I think most guys who already have a 7 RM don't have to get a 7 PRC. But they probably will because it is cool.

For me, it is my first 7 and first long action. In fact, the MDT mag I am using for it is their mag for .300 WM. The 7 PRC is just a little shorter than the 300 WM.
A lot of misinformation out there and Fuddlore BS has made it difficult for people to learn how to reload for belted magnums these days. It's extremely simple, and can be more simple than non-belted cases in most instances. I have 7mmRM loads that have a 3 ES and 1 SD...Loaded on cheap old regular (base model) RCBS dies...Nothing special. It's all about what you're doing. Neck-sizing for belted cases will greatly improve case life, and precision.

I don't even anneal any of my cases and I have .308 Win Lapua cases that have 10+ firings on them and still produce enough equal neck tension to give me 1/2 MOA 5-shot groups. Neck-sizing only, unless they stretch too much on occasion and need to be FL sized once just to shrink them back down to reform to the chamber, helps with that, as well. Over the years, I have found a lot of this "must do" and "must have" equipment is hocus pocus and just voodoo snake oil for hunters and recreational shooting. About the only thing I ever really have to do is occasionally FL size, and occasionally have to trim and chamfer/deburr the cases.

If you're shooting BR or comps or something for money, sure go ahead and drop all the coin on all the expensive equipment, like the $2,500 annealing machines, and $2,500 powder scales, etc... But your average hunter and shooter can do just fine without annealing, and a $500 RCBS Chargemaster Supreme, or $300 Chargemaster Link. Just make sure you calibrate it before every use, and run a few test charges through it before trusting it to start throwing 100%. And always double-check your charges.

I'm not saying that everything I do is 100% right or orthodox, but what I do works damn-well for me and others I've taught to reload. So...I'll keep on keeping on, regardless of what all the "experts" say.
 
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A lot of misinformation out there and Fuddlore BS has made it difficult for people to learn how to reload for belted magnums these days. It's extremely simple, and can be more simple than non-belted cases in most instances. I have 7mmRM loads that have a 3 ES and 1 SD...Loaded on cheap old regular (base model) RCBS dies...Nothing special. It's all about what you're doing. Neck-sizing for belted cases will greatly improve case life, and precision.

I don't even anneal any of my cases and I have .308 Win Lapua cases that have 10+ firings on them and still produce enough equal neck tension to give me 1/2 MOA 5-shot groups. Neck-sizing only, unless they stretch too much on occasion and need to be FL sized once just to shrink them back down to reform to the chamber, helps with that, as well. Over the years, I have found a lot of this "must do" and "must have" equipment is hocus pocus and just voodoo snake oil for hunters and recreational shooting. About the only thing I ever really have to do is occasionally FL size, and occasionally have to trim and chamfer/deburr the cases.

If you're shooting BR or comps or something for money, sure go ahead and drop all the coin on all the expensive equipment, like the $2,500 annealing machines, and $2,500 powder scales, etc... But your average hunter and shooter can do just fine without annealing, and a $500 RCBS Chargemaster Supreme, or $300 Chargemaster Link. Just make sure you calibrate it before every use, and run a few test charges through it before trusting it to start throwing 100%. And always double-check your charges.

I'm not saying that everything I do is 100% right or orthodox, but what I do works damn-well for me and others I've taught to reload. So...I'll keep on keeping on, regardless of what all the "experts" say.
I don't have a dog in that fight. I was restating what others have stated. Some prefer to not have belted cartridges.

One of the gun guys I admire tried out some 7 PRCs and liked but still prefers to hunt with his 7 RM. Which is perfectly fine and he doesn't care about rims on the casings.

My step-grandfather once broke down the meaning of expert. It is two words. Ex = has been. Spurt is a drip under pressure. So, an expert is an has-been drip under pressure. So, I am not worried about "expert" opinions. I have found a few of those to be skewed, as well.
 
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I don't have a dog in that fight. I was restating what others have stated. Some prefer to not have belted cartridges.

One of the gun guys I admire tried out some 7 PRCs and liked but still prefers to hunt with his 7 RM. Which is perfectly fine and he doesn't care about rims on the casings.

My step-grandfather once broke down the meaning of expert. It is two words. Ex = has been. Spurt is a drip under pressure. So, an expert is an has-been drip under pressure. So, I am not worried about "expert" opinions. I have found a few of those to be skewed, as well.
For the new 7mm magnum gamers... The 7mm PRC makes absolute perfect sense. For "old" long-time 7mm magnum guys like me, who have been hunting with 7mm RemMags and 7mm STW's for 22+ years (some old guys since the 60's and 70's on the 7mm RemMag, and the 80's with the 7 STW) and are still playing with those cartridges with MODERN powders and bullets and brass, the 7mm PRC might be a bit slower catching on.

Personally, I'm a life-long 7mm fanboy, starting way back when I was a kid and dad got me a 7mm-08 for my first bolt-action deer rifle. And from there, it's been a downhill slide. 😂 And I'm often quite slow to adopt some of this shit and can sometimes throw cold water on people's fires about certain things, by pointing out the redundancy is some things... Example being the 7mm RemMag and 7mm Wby Mag with modern components is basically equal to the 7mm PRC. And that's not throwing any shade towards the 7PRC, that's just me spitting out numbers I know off the top of my head based on what all my years of experience with the others can do. But people get offended pretty easily because they want to be a cool kid and get the next shiny new thing, and if you bring up a comparison they don't like or they feel negates their purchase, they get defensive and start fights about it. Which is how most of these forum arguments start.
 
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For the new 7mm magnum gamers... The 7mm PRC makes absolute perfect sense. For "old" long-time 7mm magnum guys like me, who have been hunting with 7mm RemMags and 7mm STW's for 22+ years (some old guys since the 60's and 70's on the 7mm RemMag, and the 80's with the 7 STW) and are still playing with those cartridges with MODERN powders and bullets and brass, the 7mm PRC might be a bit slower catching on.

Personally, I'm a life-long 7mm fanboy, starting way back when I was a kid and dad got me a 7mm-08 for my first bolt-action deer rifle. And from there, it's been a downhill slide. 😂 And I'm often quite slow to adopt some of this shit and can sometimes throw cold water on people's fires about certain things, by pointing out the redundancy is some things... Example being the 7mm RemMag and 7mm Wby Mag with modern components is basically equal to the 7mm PRC. And that's not throwing any shade towards the 7PRC, that's just me spitting out numbers I know off the top of my head based on what all my years of experience with the others can do. But people get offended pretty easily because they want to be a cool kid and get the next shiny new thing, and if you bring up a comparison they don't like or they feel negates their purchase, they get defensive and start fights about it. Which is how most of these forum arguments start.
And I have a few .308s that do really well and each one has a purpose. But the performance of any 7 can easily exceed the .308. Granted, there are long distance competitions and the .308 is okay in that. Where it fails is terminal velocity and energy. For game targets, it is best used inside of 300 yards. Nothing wrong with that and if you are in heavy woods on your aunt's 20 acres, that's fine.

In fact, Who Tee Who did the numbers and drop graphs on a number of rifles. Out to 500 yards, they all are within an inch or so of each other. Past 500 yards, the 7 PRC really shines and of course, a 7 RM load such as you might make. And most people are not going to shoot at game past 600 yards. Usually less. And you can do that with 7 RM. I have seen some footage of different people getting an elk with a 7 RM.

And what I have learned that makes sense is not so much terminal or impact energy. You could have a high energy bullet that pencils through. What really helps bring down the game animal is how well the bullet opens up and that is a function impact or terminal velocity. And that hovers round 2,000 fps, generally. So, however far the bullet is still over 2k fps is the usable range.

So, for example, the Precision Hunter 175 gr ELD-X drops below 2k fps just before 800 yards. So, for maximum impact velocity benefit, don't shoot past 750 yards. That's just numbers. However, there are varying situations but mostly, I think, people are going to shoot inside 500 yards. I like the flat trajectories you get with a 7. And so precision and accuracy and impact velocity are more important than the bullet girth.

There are times when shooting farther than 100 yards at an animal will be necessary. Texas has public land hunt for Mule Deer at the Caprock Canyon SP near Turkey, Texas (south and east of Amarillo.) The hunting information advises of rugged camping in compartment hunting and to expect shots at 200 yards or more. It's a canyon in the high desert, so, not any trees to hide behind or up in.

Here I am talking about a factory load in a reloading forum. Sorry about that. And I have thought of reloading, mainly because of availability.

And so tru about hurt feelings. Some of it is just hurt feelings. Other times, I think, it is just that people feed on the angst and stress of conflict.

Edite to add - I should say impact velocity, not terminal velocity. Terminal velocity is maximum velocity due to resistance in a fluid, such as air.

I have to meme myself before anyone else does.
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A lot of misinformation out there and Fuddlore BS has made it difficult for people to learn how to reload for belted magnums these days. It's extremely simple, and can be more simple than non-belted cases in most instances. I have 7mmRM loads that have a 3 ES and 1 SD...Loaded on cheap old regular (base model) RCBS dies...Nothing special. It's all about what you're doing. Neck-sizing for belted cases will greatly improve case life, and precision.

I don't even anneal any of my cases and I have .308 Win Lapua cases that have 10+ firings on them and still produce enough equal neck tension to give me 1/2 MOA 5-shot groups. Neck-sizing only, unless they stretch too much on occasion and need to be FL sized once just to shrink them back down to reform to the chamber, helps with that, as well. Over the years, I have found a lot of this "must do" and "must have" equipment is hocus pocus and just voodoo snake oil for hunters and recreational shooting. About the only thing I ever really have to do is occasionally FL size, and occasionally have to trim and chamfer/deburr the cases.

If you're shooting BR or comps or something for money, sure go ahead and drop all the coin on all the expensive equipment, like the $2,500 annealing machines, and $2,500 powder scales, etc... But your average hunter and shooter can do just fine without annealing, and a $500 RCBS Chargemaster Supreme, or $300 Chargemaster Link. Just make sure you calibrate it before every use, and run a few test charges through it before trusting it to start throwing 100%. And always double-check your charges.

I'm not saying that everything I do is 100% right or orthodox, but what I do works damn-well for me and others I've taught to reload. So...I'll keep on keeping on, regardless of what all the "experts" say.

You don't have 3es 1sd ammo. 3es ammo has an SD of <1 and 1sd ammo has an ES of at a minimum 6fps. And ammo with a 3es would basically be the best ammo ever produced on the planet.

Kinda ironic to start a post off about misinformation with claims like this.
 
You don't have 3es 1sd ammo. 3es ammo has an SD of <1 and 1sd ammo has an ES of at a minimum 6fps. And ammo with a 3es would basically be the best ammo ever produced on the planet.

Kinda ironic to start a post off about misinformation with claims like this.
Yeah, you're right... 😏

IMG_1409.jpeg
 
I'm getting single digit SD with two types of surplus powder in 7mm Mag (two diff guns, 5 shot groups). I most certainly can be done with good powder and loading techniques. I had recorded a SD of 2 using RL-22 and the 162 ELD-X. One is just barely acceptable! You need to do better!

Berger Target Hybrid180gr0.683.450"WC86079.02720/2711/2716 SD=4Rem 700 24"

Berger Target Hybrid180gr0.683.535" L
3.525"
WC857
72.5​
2962/2941/2949 SD=9PBB
 
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I'm getting single digit SD with two types of surplus powder in 7mm Mag (two diff guns, 5 shot groups). I most certainly can be done with good powder and loading techniques. I had recorded a SD of 2 using RL-22 and the 162 ELD-X. One is just barely acceptable! You need to do better!

Berger Target Hybrid180gr0.683.450"WC86079.02720/2711/2716 SD=4Rem 700 24"

Berger Target Hybrid180gr0.683.535" L
3.525"
WC857
72.5​
2962/2941/2949 SD=9PBB
Ironically, that load is also from one of my 7mm RemMags. It's with Nosler brass (neck-sized only for consistency), with IMR 7977, CCI 250's, and Berger 168 VLD's. It's coming out of my custom-built Browning A-Bolt II that I had blueprinted and rebarreled and then cut down to 22.5" and threaded for a can. That group was with my Otter Creek Labs Hydrogen-L 7.62 hanging off the end. Before I had the Bulletseeker and now the Garmin Xero, I used to strap the chrono bayonet to the can, and set the proper height that way my results depict real-world conditions, exactly how it will be when I'm hunting.

Current configuration with the Zeiss V4 6-24x50...

tempImageZTEZyb.png


I had the SWFA scope on there temporarily for load development while waiting on the new Zeiss V4 6-24x50 to come in...

tempImageo4SvPa.png
 
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LOL. We all have cherry picked chrono pictures.

I can post 20 or 30 pics of 1 and 0 sd.


That's not the true SD though. You're giving out just as much misinformation as you claimed you were helping prevent.

Your SD from that sample size can be up to 6fps (which would be around a 35-40es) 95% of the time....with the possibility of being higher the other 5%.
 
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I'm getting single digit SD with two types of surplus powder in 7mm Mag (two diff guns, 5 shot groups). I most certainly can be done with good powder and loading techniques. I had recorded a SD of 2 using RL-22 and the 162 ELD-X. One is just barely acceptable! You need to do better!

Berger Target Hybrid180gr0.683.450"WC86079.02720/2711/2716 SD=4Rem 700 24"

Berger Target Hybrid180gr0.683.535" L
3.525"
WC857
72.5​
2962/2941/2949 SD=9PBB

That's not your actual SD. That's a sample SD.
 
24” proof carbon, 1:8
Smarter people than me on here but Maybe your tube needs to settle in? Maybe revisit the monos after you have 200-300 rounds on it. I’ve only heard second hand stories of guys talking about barrels being Jackal and Hyde’s of sorts until the 150-300 mark. Not talking about velocity but consistent groups. These couple guys were shooting magnums as well for what it’s worth.