Suppressors A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

Twisted .308

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

Hoppe's takes it out of barrels why wouldn't it take it out of a suppressor?

L

edt: I guess rather than reinventing something why not just try what already available first unless their something about Hoppes that would harm a suppressor.

And it's cheap.

 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

OK, gotta ask, WHY would lead be in the suppressor?

I could understand some small particulate matter follow the projectile from the muzzle and falling into the suppressor, but I can't see how it would be similar to fouling in the barrel.
 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

It depends on the can, the caliber, and the ammo. Lead has a low melting point. .22 rimfire bullets are not jacketed (though some are plated). Also, some centerfire pistol bullets are jacketed, but have exposed lead on the base. The "explosion" created by the powder literally melts some of the lead. This molten lead Will foul the barrel, but it will also follow the projectile, strike the face(s) of the baffles and sides of the can, rapidly cool and solidify. This is best evidenced by take-apart cans- what appears to be just carbon fouling on the baffles is actually lead and carbon, and can be a PITA to remove physically. Even harder to remove from sealed cans.
 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killer Spade 13</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK, gotta ask, WHY would lead be in the suppressor?

I could understand some small particulate matter follow the projectile from the muzzle and falling into the suppressor, but I can't see how it would be similar to fouling in the barrel. </div></div>

Leading in suppressors (.22 primarily) is the result of lead vapor. When the projectile is fired a small amount of lead is vaporized from the resultant heat and pressure of the initial explosion within the chamber.

As this vapor travels down the bore and cools, it condenses and attaches itself to surrounding surfaces. In barrels it's not AS prevalent due to multiple rounds being fired, making contact with the resultant build up and stripping it (so to speak) off the lands.....grooves are another story.

With a suppressor, you still have a large amount of hot, highly pressurized gasses along with the vaporized lead entering a large cool, contained environment. As the gasses make contact with the baffles, they are destabilized and cooled, resulting in the db reduction of the round being fired.

The lead vapor condenses and adheres itself to the baffles, resulting in leading of the suppressor. In pistol cans, it's not as prevalent (most NEVER require cleaning unless your shooting lead bullets) and rifle suppressors a non issue.

In a pistol suppressor, a SMALL amount of build up is actually beneficial as it induces more turbulence, helping to break up the gasses further and enhancing suppression.

The 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar dissolves the lead but not powder fouling. Also this mixture is NOT recommended in aluminum suppressors...steel only. The mixture will dissolve aluminum as well as the lead.

Lastly (and I cannot emphasize this enough) the mixture that you will be left with is lead acetate.... READ CAREFULLY...

THIS IS SOME WICKED DANGEROUS SHIT!!! DO NOT GET THIS ON YOUR SKIN!! MUST BE DISPOSED OF AT A HAZ-MAT ACCEPTING FACILITY!!!

Lead acetate will fuck your shit up if you get it on your skin, as your body will be absorbing a highly concentrated lead mixture. It can cause MAJOR damage to your nervous system. Not something to be treated with kid gloves. If you do use this mixture, wear proper clothing, rubber gloves and eye/face protection. Place the used solution on a glass jar (like a mayonnaise jar, seal the lid with tape and label it "lead acetate". Take it to a facility that will accept haz-mat for proper disposal.....don't be dumping it down the sewer or in the yard!!!

Many suppressor manufacturers offer a cleaning service for their product. I would contact them first before doing it with the above solution.
Steve
 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

I had a chance to use a soda blaster on my .22 can. I'm sold, will be buying one soon..
 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

I understand where your coming from using one can for different host's. But I wouldn't use a sealed centerfire can on a rimfire host, bad juju there. Reason being all listed above, the lead from the 22 rimfire will build up in the sealed can and will be exstremely hard to remove. Most rimfire can's these days are made to take apart to clean the lead out, centerfire can's are sealed because there is no need to take them apart to clean the lead out. So if you shoot a 22 long though your can made for your .223, your gona get some lead in it thats gona be hard to remove.
 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

Tens of thousands of .22s can be fired through a sealed can without any issues if you shoot plated .22 rounds. Shoot plated and forget about chems.
 
Re: A Question for the Chemists out there !!!!

Plated bullets still leave behind lead residue and buildup. I tried going straight plated bullets for 3k rounds in my 22LR can and it still built up just as bad as always. Working on picking a new can that is easier to clean for these same reasons.