A way to correcting galling in necks?

[Sgtsideways]

Is there a way to correct galling in the necks of cases due to the use of ss media and tumbling or ultrasonic cleaning? I know that you can lube to help mitigate the galling, but just wondered if there is a way to polish it out.
What is the best practice to prevent the galling in the first place? Tumbling with soapy water?

 

[Steel head]

Don’t clean brass so thoroughly or even at all.
That carbon left in the neck works wonders.

 

[918v]

The galling doesn’t affect anything so don’t worry about it.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Use of a coated mandrel will reduce friction, TiN and carbide are common options.

 

[larryh128]

Is there a way to correct galling in the necks of cases due to the use of ss media and tumbling or ultrasonic cleaning? I know that you can lube to help mitigate the galling, but just wondered if there is a way to polish it out.
What is the best practice to prevent the galling in the first place? Tumbling with soapy water?

What I've seen in the results tumbling in soapy water I would certainly be looking at that vs ss pins or other media besides corn cob.

 

[mtang45]

I have read that improper ratio of dish soap and Lemishine will cause a chemical reaction with the brass and create adverse conditions for bullet tension. Don't know how true that is but just something to check. I use a bore hone to quickly roughen the inside neck surface and then use Imperial Dry Lube on the inside of the necks.

 

[larryh128]

Lemon is acidic and will etch things. What I've seen, dish soap does a good job.

 

[NodakBarbarian]

I used to wet tumble before and after sizing. I started tumbling in corn cob media after sizing because wet tumbling gets the brass too clean and caused inconsistent bullet seating force/depth.

 

[lightman]

You can dip the case neck in powdered graphite. Forester, I think, used to make a little gizmo to do this.

 

[spife7980]

You can dip the case neck in powdered graphite. Forester, I think, used to make a little gizmo to do this.

Case Neck Graphiter – Forster Products

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[Aftermath]

You can dip the case neck in powdered graphite. Forester, I think, used to make a little gizmo to do this.

I do this, got the graphite through a machine shop in Boise quite a few years ago. I forget the microns but that stuff is powdered and came with a "wear PPE" notice.
The wife gave me a little empty make-up jar with a tight fitting lid. I filled it about 3/4 with #8 shot (maybe it was #9, been a while) and then added some graphite. This graphite is white, so it shows on the bb's. After I prime, but before I charge a case, I just dip the case mouth into the little jar, give it a twist, pour in the powder, seat the bullet.
About every 1000 rounds or so, I give a little squirt of the graphite, close the jar and give it a good shaking.

 

[LR1845]

ive tried the graphite lubes and maybe just me but they had a gritty feel when seating.
ive also tried HBN which felt even more gritty when seating. i tried this recently https://www.neconos.com/item/SUPER-DELUXE-DRY-NECK-LUBE-KIT-35 and this stuff(moly)was super smooth when seating bullets.

 

[iceng]

Everyone here covered it, so to summarise:

Tumble less, or not as long, and use regular dish soap rather than uber lemon shine stuff.

Redding neck lube with microballs.

Expander mandrel with TiN coating.

Stop worrying unless you are competing in the world national fclass or BR finals.

 

[LR1845]

Stop worrying unless you are competing in the world national fclass or BR finals.

this is what i did long ago but every now and then the reloader OCD flares up LOL.

 

[iceng]

I have 3 different scales all turned on comparing drift over 24hrs. I'm also slightly kooky. 2 different locations (houses) and 3 different outlets on the first property (3 phase), so checked each one). And one on this property.

Ugh,. Why do we do weird shit.

 

[LR1845]

I have 3 different scales all turned on comparing drift over 24hrs. I'm also slightly kooky. 2 different locations (houses) and 3 different outlets on the first property (3 phase), so checked each one). And one on this property.

Ugh,. Why do we do weird shit.

you figure that out find a cure and write a book and you can retire LOL!

 

[Sgtsideways]

Thanks fellows. Great ideas to ponder. Is there a reason why straight graphite (farm use) cannot be used, as opposed to the rather expensive and hard to get redding stuff? Here's a couple of samples of what I'm thinking of. Use with lead/ss shot for mixing?

Amazon.com: S.143531 Seed Lubricant, Graphite Powder, 1lb Bottle, 24 / Fits Case : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Buy S.143531 Seed Lubricant, Graphite Powder, 1lb Bottle, 24 / Fits Case: Spare & Replacement Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Graphite-Bottles-Military-Micron-Powder/dp/B087JG914P/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=powder+graphite&qid=1621094498&sr=8-7

 

[CK1.0]

I like wet tumbling with SS pins, it makes the brass come out good as new (better than new really since it's fire-formed). I don't use the same amount of pins I'd use for 1000+ pistol cases though, just a couple handfuls works for 100-200 rifle cases. I use Armor All Wash & Wax + a little Lemishine for everything... the AA W&W is great since it basically lightly pre-lubricates the brass.

I like to keep my reloading processes as "scientific" and clinical as I can so the steps are repeatable, so I want my cases in the same state every single time at the start, no random post-fired burns/char marks on the brass or debris for me. Wet tumbling with SS pins delivers this, and I feel like all the worry about galling due to wet/SS tumbling is bullshit (especially since trimming and then chamfer/deburring corrects anything worth being concerned with).

I dry tumble in corn cob media post-resizing/mandrel, gets rid of all of the lube (an often overlooked/under-appreciated critical step), leaves just enough dust in the necks so there's no need to dick around with graphite for seating.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Switched to a Tin mandrel and the galling stopped.

 

[lightman]

Case Neck Graphiter – Forster Products

Case Neck Graphiter $ 25.00 Original price was: $25.00. $ 18.75 Current price is: $18.75. Case Neck Graphiter quantity Add to cart SKU: 11341

www.forsterproducts.com

Yeah, thats the thing I have. I think it came with motor-mica but graphite is probably better.

 

[Sgtsideways]

Tried some of the dry lube from imperial that has been sitting around and used the dry desiccant packets that you get from mailed packages. Seems to work pretty well for applying the graphite. Small desiccant spheres gives a good coating to bullets/brass.

 

[MarshallDodge]

I have 3 different scales all turned on comparing drift over 24hrs. I'm also slightly kooky. 2 different locations (houses) and 3 different outlets on the first property (3 phase), so checked each one). And one on this property.

Ugh,. Why do we do weird shit.

Do you have a set of check weights?

I check my scale periodically while loading with a couple different pieces of brass with known weights. Zeroing usually corrects any error but if not, I recalibrate the scale.

Maybe you are joking but outlets are single phase, and plugging into different outlets isn't going to make a difference. You can do things to clean up the power before it gets to the scale which may help.

 

[gigamortis]

After my ultrasonic cleaning and neck annealing, I vibratory tumble for about 1/2 hour with NuFinish treated walnut media. I have found bullet seating is just as slick this way as my old method of individually applying mica in my necks. If I don't do any sort of neck treatment, bullet seating force is definitely increased right along with a harsh scraping feeling during seating.

I have found that my treated neck ammo that is months old shoots across the chrono the same as ammo I loaded the night before. I have found that months old ammo with untreated necks have different chrono numbers than just recently loaded untreated neck ammo.

 

[iceng]

Do you have a set of check weights?

I check my scale periodically while loading with a couple different pieces of brass with known weights. Zeroing usually corrects any error but if not, I recalibrate the scale.

Maybe you are joking but outlets are single phase, and plugging into different outlets isn't going to make a difference. You can do things to clean up the power before it gets to the scale which may help.

3 phase workshop, 3 seperate phases to try. Yes, it makes a difference. As long as you have a sine wave converter, you are set. If you have LED or fluro lights anywhere on that circuit, you will get drift.
I run a simple UPS Battery thing with safety switch in it, and works a treat.

Yes, I have known check weights I use.