Accuracy International AT-X

Mine is not like any of my other actions.

First the swept handle and big ass know. Keeps your mitts from smashing into things.

60 degree throw--same as above. Coming from remington the main thing is it gives my hand more room to operate.

Smoothness? Only detectable when dry firing. On the range I can't tell the difference between it and my smoothest action even in slow deliberate shooting.

Run it fast, run it slow, it just runs

People put a lot of stock in bolt lift, smoothness, I can't detect shit between all the brands and I've fingered (snicker) most of the major brands. In fact I felt TL3>Impact in dry fire (SACRILIDGE!)

It's a great selling point in the store--on the range, not so much just my experience
 
Well, I finally went and ordered my first AI. My new AT-X shipped yesterday from EO, along with my long forend bridge. I've spent the last day reading pages 1-50 and 91-current on this thread, but still have a couple questions for the experienced:

* I should probably add here that this is a fun rifle that will see 99% informal target/steel shooting, and maybe 1% taken out hunting.

1) With the forend bridge... (no rail, just bridge, I run a thermal scope in its own dedicated QD mount on other rifles), will a mount in a 1.35" range give me enough clearance over the bridge, as well as allow me to smash my face down on the cheek piece and still get in the eyebox? I'll be running either a 50 or 56mm objective lens scope. I know 1.5" will work, but is a bit high for my personal tastes...and I think guys had issues getting behind the scopes with stuff in the 1.1" range. If a 1.5" is required for 56mm objective lens scopes, I'm fine with that.

2) For the guys running the AX bag rider, where did you get them? My Google-fu skills find every other bag rider except. If they are just pilfers off of other rifles, I have no problem breaking down and getting something a little fancier.

3) Aside from going into the bathroom and touching #1s together, are there any other secret handshakes that I need to know about when being a member in the AI club?

Thanks in advance.
 
Well, I finally went and ordered my first AI. My new AT-X shipped yesterday from EO, along with my long forend bridge. I've spent the last day reading pages 1-50 and 91-current on this thread, but still have a couple questions for the experienced:

* I should probably add here that this is a fun rifle that will see 99% informal target/steel shooting, and maybe 1% taken out hunting.

1) With the forend bridge... (no rail, just bridge, I run a thermal scope in its own dedicated QD mount on other rifles), will a mount in a 1.35" range give me enough clearance over the bridge, as well as allow me to smash my face down on the cheek piece and still get in the eyebox? I'll be running either a 50 or 56mm objective lens scope. I know 1.5" will work, but is a bit high for my personal tastes...and I think guys had issues getting behind the scopes with stuff in the 1.1" range. If a 1.5" is required for 56mm objective lens scopes, I'm fine with that.

2) For the guys running the AX bag rider, where did you get them? My Google-fu skills find every other bag rider except. If they are just pilfers off of other rifles, I have no problem breaking down and getting something a little fancier.

3) Aside from going into the bathroom and touching #1s together, are there any other secret handshakes that I need to know about when being a member in the AI club?

Thanks in advance.
I have the forend bridge and full length rail as well but you need the high action rail to correctly line up with the forend bridge. Probably would be able to clip on without it but it drives me nuts

IMG_3511.jpeg
 
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I use a Badger C1 1.30" mount, I've since added one of their levels which mounts directly in those two little holes on the mount. I also prefer a height lower than 1.5". It works great for day optic use, very solid. I think you need the high action rail if you plan on using NV or thermal.

The adjustable cheek piece does not adjust super low. Mine is adjusted two (2) clicks up from being bottomed out. 1.18" was too low for me.

20230515_175301.jpg
 
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Well, I finally went and ordered my first AI. My new AT-X shipped yesterday from EO, along with my long forend bridge. I've spent the last day reading pages 1-50 and 91-current on this thread, but still have a couple questions for the experienced:

* I should probably add here that this is a fun rifle that will see 99% informal target/steel shooting, and maybe 1% taken out hunting.

1) With the forend bridge... (no rail, just bridge, I run a thermal scope in its own dedicated QD mount on other rifles), will a mount in a 1.35" range give me enough clearance over the bridge, as well as allow me to smash my face down on the cheek piece and still get in the eyebox? I'll be running either a 50 or 56mm objective lens scope. I know 1.5" will work, but is a bit high for my personal tastes...and I think guys had issues getting behind the scopes with stuff in the 1.1" range. If a 1.5" is required for 56mm objective lens scopes, I'm fine with that.

2) For the guys running the AX bag rider, where did you get them? My Google-fu skills find every other bag rider except. If they are just pilfers off of other rifles, I have no problem breaking down and getting something a little fancier.

3) Aside from going into the bathroom and touching #1s together, are there any other secret handshakes that I need to know about when being a member in the AI club?

Thanks in advance.
Sporting services UK has some!
 
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I'm using 1.5" mount atop a high action rail and using an anarchy outdoors low profile cheek piece at its lowest position to get the rifle closest to neck line with as little head tilt as possible. I have a wide jaw line/bone structure in face, so I always use a jaw weld with low cheek VS an actual cheek weld. I have found this best for straighter recoil pulse and keeping target in view upon recoil management in positional shooting.
 
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I run a 1.35” as well, only downside is I cannot remove the bolt without raising the cheek rest. Find a folding hinge ASAP & problem solved if you need to remove the bolt & it helps with running a cleaning rod.
Please hit me up if you locate one, I've had one on back order thru Euro Optics for a bit, was told it will be a while.
 
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Something like this. I could get a quarter inch shorter if I moved my bag rider.

View attachment 8170515
Thanks. I removed the AI butt pad and installed a thin pacmeryer and removed about 1/2", I'm trying to get it closer to 12 1/4 or 12 1/2. Gonna see if I cannot somehow remove the adjustabile butt function on the existing atx butt. I have a folder already which didn't affect LOP at all.
 
I placed an order for one 15 mins ago, so we'll see!

I think that means you either took a number two, or got number two.

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If I missed it, then I won't be too sad. It's going to take another couple of months to afford a decent optic to put on my incoming AT-X anyway.

I ordered an AX bag rider at the same time. Definitely not as functional as some of the other aftermarket offerings, but should be serviceable for my intentions.
 
Man, if there were dealers that had info of such rifles on their websites with videos to go along with it…



We can disregard this thread that only has 101 pages with over 5k comments… Lol
Hey now. It’s my whole legacy now 😂
 
Does anyone have issues with the safety offering some resistance going from fire into second position?

I just picked up an at-x from eurooptic and it’s brand new. Probably needs some time to break in?
 
Got my AT-X in today. Man, is that trigger lighter than I expected. Across 10 pulls, it averaged 1lb 9oz as it came from the factory. I was somewhat expecting something closer to one of the Geissele triggers that I had in my ARs for some reason...not even close.

It feels front heavy until you balance it...then it balances perfectly just in front if the mag well. I may play with a couple weights later on down the road.

The elite sand is extremely gray indoors, but has a very slight greenish hue to it out in the sun. I'm perfectly content with the color.

Going to be a while before I get glass for it. I'm also waiting for my hinge and AX bag rider to come in.

At some point I'll take pictures, but for now it looks like every other stock photo of an AT-X in elite sand...

As someone who hadn't ever really felt a AI up, it is a relief to find out that I'm liking it. Dropping that kind of coin on something you only see photos/video of is a pretty big leap of faith.
 
Not sure about AW mags - I sent in AX mags and they adjusted the feed lip geometry. Didn’t say that it was specifically done for the AT-X or anything, just that mine were “significantly” out of spec.

They did also replace the springs/followers, but I have no way of knowing if they were the “new” style or if they just replaced them. They do seem to have a little more tension on them, but that could just be me justifying why they seem to feed better now.

As I’ve said in previous posts, sending mags in to have them checked is reasonably quick and painless… seems like an obvious thing to do if you’re having any issues whatsoever.
Who do you call / email and what did you say to them ? I have 4 mags I’d like to get upgraddd.
 
I thought you email and complain and they upgrade your mags ?
I haven’t personally done that, but have seen it mentioned on here that they’ll tweak your existing mags if you send them in. Not sure if they just bend the feed lips or actually upgrade the internals.
 
This atx was my first AI. Not sure I am in love with the comp trigger. I have adjusted it but still feel like the weight difference between the first and second stage isn't great enough for me. I prefer a light first stage and a heavy 2nd stage but can't seem to achieve that with this trigger. Do you guys think there is something I am missing with the adjustments or is that just the way the comp trigger is? The overall weight of the comp is fine I just wish I could take more weight out of the 1st stage and put it in the 2nd.

I have been considering trying to find somebody to trade me a standard AI trigger. Can you achieve a light first stage with a heavy 2nd stage (heavy relative to the 1st stage)? Never fired a standard AI trigger. Thanks for any guidance you guys can give.
 
I'm sure somebody will trade you a trigger here if you go through the correct avenue in the PX, or maybe meet up somewhere at a match etc...

I wasn't able to really get an accurate idea of my 1st stage pull weight, but it looked to be in the 14oz range, and then another 11oz to break the second stage. This is how mine came from the factory. Over 10 pulls, the combined weight stayed between 1lb 8oz and 1lb 10oz...which is about as consistent as you can expect from an electronic guage.

I do have a "very heavy first stage" spring as well as a very light one that came with my rifle. Have you tried that one to see if you like it more? If you need that spring, I'll be happy to send you mine as I'll not be using it.
 
Took my scope off my .223 trainer and slapped it on my new AT-X for a few rounds of breaking in...which is mostly breaking me in to familiarize myself with the trigger and rifle.

I shot five to zero, and then (4) 5-round groups after a cleaning patch battle that cost me a new rod (mostly my fault).

I did chunk one low, but otherwise everything felt good.

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Please don't mind the POI shifts, I let the rifle cool for a long time between groups, and the shift is merely me not getting back behind the rifle consistently between groups (was screwing with buttpad placement).

Unfortunately, I had a cleaning patch sick itself inside the barrel. The rod wouldn't budge either way. I noticed what felt like a rough spot on my first patch, but it made it though, and I attributed it to fouling. #2 got stuck worse than I've ever had one stick before.

^ Light tapping with a mallet got the rod through, but the patch was still stuck, and I had to tap the rod backwards (and I boogered up the threads on the way back).

Cleaned the patch out. Grabbed a .243 jag and tried again...could feel a friction point, and then the rod stuck again. This time I was able to pull the rod back out. Ran a wet bronze brush (CLP) through about 30 times and it patched dry without issue. That was after shot #4.

I then shot the four groups above over the next 90 minutes.

I'm probably going to run my borescope through the barrel in the next day or two, just to see if I find anything...hopefully I got whatever it was shot out.