I know my at was heavier than the 3 ae's I've owned, but it wasn't that heavy. I always put a dab of grease on cocking ramp, primary extraction area of bolt handle, and on lugs.
Accuracy International Bolt Lift Weight
- Thread starter Sinper101
- Start date
It’s a new gun...It’s was lightly lubed when took it out from the box. Haven’t apply any extra lubrication on it yet.
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You forgot 6.8 SPC.
Best AR15 cartridge ever. I heard the military is going to adopt it........
Grease the red parts: each lug(6) on back and ramp, cocking piece/cocking piece ramp, and the primary extraction cam surface/top front bolt handle.
Learn something everyday. Does this apply to other actions that have bayonet type bolt take down like badger and bighorn?
Thanks guys. I will do exactly that and come back with an update!!!
All actions need lube there whether it’s bayonet style or threads like a Remington. In the case of the bayonet style though, there’s not much surface area there, so lube will matter more.
What oil or grease are you guys using on your AI bolts? I bought my AT used, and it had anti seize all over the surface of the bolt. Wasn't sure if that was some obscure trick to make it smoother or what.
Youve got 2 options. Lube and grease the places that have been mentioned, or run it dry, breaking everything in by dry firing/shooting many cycles, THEN lubing. The surfaces wont really break in if they are greased. As far as what lube to go with, i have found that full synthetic motor oil works great on backs of lugs, then brake grease on the points that were mentioned.
I’ve never bought in to that theory. I can’t say that I’ve ever run into an assembly that just wouldn’t work properly due to lube on sheer surfaces. I can’t count the number of times I’ve seen under lubed surfaces with excessive wear, regardless of age. Metal on metal contact with high shear loads deserves lube imo.
I wish I were better set up to test these type of things. I sent my AT back to AINA last week to have the bolt replaced due to a messed up safety. My previous bolt was well used and felt great. Would've been neat to take a few measurements with the old one before sending it off.
ETA* Wonder what they'll think when they open the box and see it's in an MPA chassis lol.
ETA* Wonder what they'll think when they open the box and see it's in an MPA chassis lol.
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Goes great with Windows 95
i think you might be misunderstanding what i meant. Im not saying you HAVE to lube the surfaces. Im saying that if a new bolt is lubed, it wont "break in" like a non lubed surface. If a bolt is lubed, it wont wear in b/c the surfaces wont get proper friction, if that makes sense. I have run my bolt lubed and dry. you can def feel a difference. Jacob Bynums AW is probably the most broke in AI on the planet. I'd bet to say his AW dry has much lighter bolt lift than a new one with lube. I lube mine before every match with brake grease and motor oil. Feels much smoother on lift and close.
That’s how I understood you. I say lube early, the parts will smooth out regardless, and be better for it in the long run.
Did it ever smooth out? Or find a solution? I got an atx and it's probably my worst feeling action. Very heavy lift and binds up if not pushed perfectly straight forward.
About the binding, I’d call AI, personally. That seems off and is not like my AT or AX.
AI bolt lift is heavy, however. That’s just how it is.
Two things to mitigate:
Knife-hand plus thumb on shroud technique:
Accuracy International AT-XC
Ok, 6.5cm and .308 versions, no future currently with .223. No chassis system and eventual LE/Mil only on AT. AT-XC LE/MIL status? Mile High?
www.snipershide.com
And make sure you lube red and circled blue areas.
Oh yeah, thx to @Supersubes and @6brshooter for the graphic above. See here and here.About the binding, I’d call AI, personally. That seems off and is not like my AT or AX.
AI bolt lift is heavy, however. That’s just how it is.
Two things to mitigate:
Knife-hand plus thumb on shroud technique:
Accuracy International AT-XC
Ok, 6.5cm and .308 versions, no future currently with .223. No chassis system and eventual LE/Mil only on AT. AT-XC LE/MIL status? Mile High?
And make sure you lube red and circled blue areas.
View attachment 8438986
I have to say that the bolt lift on my AT-X's are higher than my RPR's but the AT-X's don't yet have as many rounds through them.
And, one AT-X has the dreaded zipper sound. More than a 2000 round plus RPR, but less than the low round count RPR.
Aeroshell 33 inbound.
And, one AT-X has the dreaded zipper sound. More than a 2000 round plus RPR, but less than the low round count RPR.
Aeroshell 33 inbound.
What am I missing with all this "smothing out" talk? My believe is it is firing spring compression poundage (60' action and the rest being equal). There is nothing rough with my AX.....
So again, I believe the only thing you are breaking in is reducing the intial stiffness of the spring?
Pete
So again, I believe the only thing you are breaking in is reducing the intial stiffness of the spring?
Pete
The atx doesn't get much better. Mined got 2k rounds through it, prob another 1k dry fires, still shit. But it shoots! It's been good to me. Just put your thumb on the chassis behind bolt, and outstretch hand under bolt knob, like you gonna judo chop. Rotate your hand quickly left, this opens the bolt without disturbing the rifle as much. Now cycle and close that bolt fn fast! The slower, the more you site picture will dusturb, or your rifle could even fall off ur gamechanger.
If you use that same technique but put your thumb on TOP of the bolt shroud (instead of behind it) you may find your leverage increases even further.
Plus, as the bolt rotates, your thumb won’t occasionally get pinched between the stock and the cocking firing pin as it pops out.
Here is the link to the original post.
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