Accuracy International Picture Thread

" The lower your scope (closer to bore), the less the effect of any cant will have on impact. "


i-MWZzbBf-S.jpg


You might want to rethink that!
 
  • Like
Reactions: OzzyO20 and kRcu
There is another (very good) reason to go lower with your rings if you can. The lower your scope (closer to bore), the less the effect of any cant will have on impact. At 500 yards is this a big deal - eh. At 1250+ on man-sized silhouettes? It definitely is a big deal.

How much of an added issue on rings that are .25” taller? Serious inquiry as I don’t know.
 
There is another (very good) reason to go lower with your rings if you can. The lower your scope (closer to bore), the less the effect of any cant will have on impact. At 500 yards is this a big deal - eh. At 1250+ on man-sized silhouettes? It definitely is a big deal.


Gotta love the internet..... “Which brings me to my next point children, don’t smoke crack!”
 
Well I finally bit the bullet and bought an AX308 from Mike @ Mile High. Dudes a rockstar for sure! Gonna be ordering up a 6mm Creedmoor barrel in a week or so, but got her out today to get it zeroed in. So excited to get more rounds downrange with it soon.
 

Attachments

  • BDB75F2C-3D66-482B-8087-C3E093D55BF3.jpeg
    BDB75F2C-3D66-482B-8087-C3E093D55BF3.jpeg
    403.9 KB · Views: 320
  • 31B5AF7D-61AD-4526-AFD3-E999630B94D9.jpeg
    31B5AF7D-61AD-4526-AFD3-E999630B94D9.jpeg
    913.8 KB · Views: 341
  • 1ED64C3D-8D34-44CE-BD41-2F4A0E26A972.jpeg
    1ED64C3D-8D34-44CE-BD41-2F4A0E26A972.jpeg
    830.8 KB · Views: 375
So which theory on ring height/cant is correct?

Buy a quality mount and rifle, notice what thread we are in, and you will be fine. The old mentality of bore to optic centerline mostly had to do with PBR and less drop at 2-400yds. With precise tracking scopes PBR doesn’t matter anymore. The quality of rings, mounts, and rifle bases in the 21st century, greatly reduce cant (side to side/lateral, not to be confused with the built in cant of the rail itself/verticle). It’s not a factor to be concerned with anymore. My sight height is 2.5” above my bore, that would have “triggered” every old curmudgeon of the 1990’s, but now it’s common practice. Take a look at the firing line at a comp next time and you’ll notice everyone has an adjustable cheek piece and a mount that costs more than the scopes of the people complaining about height above bore. Just measure your sight height, input into your ballistic program and enjoy the sound of steel singing to you. My $.02
 
So which theory on ring height/cant is correct?

As long as you have an adjustable cheek piece to get proper cheek weld, and you measure your height over bore (which you need to do regardless) and input it to your ballistic program then is makes absolutely no difference in any manner.

To run NV and thermal clip on properly you need a 1.5” center height on a flat rail.
 
It looks so wrong but feels so right! haha

I am legitimately interested in how it shoots now, and how repeatable it is with barrel removal and re-installation. I believe there is special juju with the AI action being bonded to the chassis that is lost when bolting it in to a different chassis. The action is still the action, but you can't discount the effect the whole system has on consistency when it's bonded together.

And as much as I like the MPA chassis (I have one with a Mausingfield), I just can't shake the fact that the AT and AX systems are on a different level. The MPA chassis is great - I don't want to seem like a hater - but the tiny little set screws that lock down the wobble in the buttstock and cheekpiece, along with needing like 4 different Allen wrenches to adjust everything feel...cheap...when compared to the AI. The buttstock of the AX feels so solid and easy to adjust in comparison.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Basher and kRcu
Who else feel the pistol grip is rather large/wide?

I do. I saw someone mod an AX chassis to take an Ergo, and I'd do that in a heartbeat if it were possible with an AE/AT skin set, but I don't think it is.

For the most part, I don't wrap around the grip though. I ride the side of the chassis with my thumb, so not too big a deal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kRcu
I have 100 rounds through it so far with no problems at all and the first match with it will be next weekend. To complete the transformation I went with a new 6.5x47L Krieger heavy varmint barrel from Keystone Accuracy and it’s shooting great!! The whole setup feels completely different and I couldn’t be happier right now. I’ll try to take some videos during the match.

 
I have 100 rounds through it so far with no problems at all and the first match with it will be next weekend. To complete the transformation I went with a new 6.5x47L Krieger heavy varmint barrel from Keystone Accuracy and it’s shooting great!! The whole setup feels completely different and I couldn’t be happier right now. I’ll try to take some videos during the match.




My only fear is who would do the warranty work should something happen?
 
I have 100 rounds through it so far with no problems at all and the first match with it will be next weekend. To complete the transformation I went with a new 6.5x47L Krieger heavy varmint barrel from Keystone Accuracy and it’s shooting great!! The whole setup feels completely different and I couldn’t be happier right now. I’ll try to take some videos during the match.




I'd say it runs SLICK!!!!!!!! Now, who has a cheap AT to sell? :D :D :D
 
Didn't Tom state even converting an AT butt stock to a post-14 butt voided warranty because it is "bonded"?

Not that you couldn't glue it back together... Just not as confident you could send it to AI in MPA chassis.
 
Even at that, I don’t see how swapping the stock on my AT could void the warranty if something in the bolt malfunctioned. It would likely void warranty on the chassis, sure, but the whole rifle shouldn’t be affected.
 
What exactly is the process for getting the action out? Trying to plan out what I might need if I ever decide to do this.
Strip the skins, put the barrel in a vise, heat the epoxy with a paint stipper heat gun and pry/wiggle the chassis up and down until it separates. Then I scrapped any remaining epoxy off with a razor blade.... done.
 
Even at that, I don’t see how swapping the stock on my AT could void the warranty if something in the bolt malfunctioned. It would likely void warranty on the chassis, sure, but the whole rifle shouldn’t be affected.

Personally I agree with your logic... Just saying it might be worth while to verify AI will see it the same way as I get the impression they don't always appreciate our resourcefulness.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kRcu
10 bucks says there’s no way AI honors warranty work on a de-bonded action in another chassis. How could you definitively prove to them that the heat applied during the debonding, or the fact that it’s in a non-AI chassis wasn’t the contributing factor to the (hypothetical) issue you were having?

Same as if you put an aftermarket turbo in your Civic, Honda won’t repair your head gasket under warranty if it goes.

IMO, if you de-bond it you assume the risk and have to deal with the fact that AI will fix anything that might go wrong - but the repair will come out of your pocket.
 
Good luck to all haha. If you’re willing to de-bond a $4500 gun and put it in a $1000 chassis, who the F cares about warranty work? Just be willing to accept, at least on a public forum, that they aren’t going to warranty your new MPAI. I’m not saying don’t do it, I think it’s cool to be honest, but if your main reservation is voiding the warranty then it’s probaby best to call AI direct or just not risk it.
 

Attachments

  • 85B2B300-AF81-4E71-951D-1482EB5B2B7C.jpeg
    85B2B300-AF81-4E71-951D-1482EB5B2B7C.jpeg
    471.6 KB · Views: 226
  • Like
Reactions: Badfinger