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Accuracy International Picture Thread

How much “inletting” did you have to do in the trigger/trigger screw area of the mpa to get the action to fit properly? A buddy and I both had to use the mill to clearance the chassis a bit.

Yeah that was pretty disappointing... We had to dig out a few millimeters worth of chassis behind the rear trigger hanger bolt head also. Didn't have any actual measurements, we were going to send a spicy email to MPA but figured it was done and worked by that point... The replacement bolts they provided also, the front to had to be trimmed also to avoid them poking out of the bottom where the Arca rail is.

I have a CZ455 MPA stock that had to be worked on also to make it fit.

You'd think they'd be making rolling adjustments to designs as they go with the feedback they are no doubt getting..... Not sure :rolleyes:
 
Yeah that was pretty disappointing... We had to dig out a few millimeters worth of chassis behind the rear trigger hanger bolt head also. Didn't have any actual measurements, we were going to send a spicy email to MPA but figured it was done and worked by that point... The replacement bolts they provided also, the front to had to be trimmed also to avoid them poking out of the bottom where the Arca rail is.

I have a CZ455 MPA stock that had to be worked on also to make it fit.

You'd think they'd be making rolling adjustments to designs as they go with the feedback they are no doubt getting..... Not sure :rolleyes:
Does your MPA chassis have the bolt handle cut out on both sides
 
Well finally committed and bought my AT in 6.5 Creedmoor. Been running Hornady American Gunner 140, Match 140 ELD and Match 147 ELD. The American Gunner had a huge SD of over 20 where the 147 had the smallest SD around 10.7. The Match 140 ELD was kinda all over the place. I pretty well have everything I need for reloading this caliber. Picking up a box of Lapua brass and hopefully my Forster Dies come in today.

 
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Test driving the new rifle from @duane1969 Thanks again!

3B445DE4-919B-4755-9CCD-A007A33BD5F4.jpeg
 
I took the new AT out to Quantico for a 1,000y range day today. Even though it was raining and supposed to rain throughout the morning, there were still a few of us on the line. I also had a guest in Scott Seigmund from AINA. On a whim, when I noted that AINA was right in F'burg (all of 12 miles away) I sent a note to the info e-mail addy asking if "they" wanted to shoot LR on R4 (which we do each weekend). Heck if Scott didn't reply, and came out to join the Quantico Shooting Club. While he didn't shoot today, it was a pleasure to meet him and learn a bit more about his shooting passions; I know we'll be seeing him on the line as his schedule permits. I know, CSB...

Anyways, I brought the AT with me and even though it wasn't sighted, I shot at 4" clays on the berm (1,035y) to get a read on where it was hitting. A few adjustments and 10rds later I was at least on target. I think I like this rifle, incredibly smooth bolt, excellent ergonomics and it seems like it just "fits" me; I will be naming the AT "Darlene." On the 1,000y line at Quantico.

IMG_0743-1_JPG-935386.jpg
 
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Hi everyone-

I did my best to search the thread before asking this but couldn't find an answer. I'm having GA Precision build my new 6.5 Creedmore using a Remington SS 700 action, SS Bartlien barrel (1:8.5) and AX AICS chassis (Latest Gen.). I asked them to Cerakote the barreled action to match my Pale Brown AX chassis but they only offer Flat Dark Earth and Coyote Tan. Does anyone know which of those two choices would match closest? Thank you in advance.
 
Question for all you AI Guys

I have the AXMC Long action rifle and just have the .308 barrel at the moment. I've ordered the .338 barrel and conversion kit as well but I'm planning on just switching the muzzle brake between the 2 of them for the time being until my wallet cools off and I can order another brake.

My question is does the AI brake require any shims to time it to the barrel properly or not? When I screw mine onto the .308 barrel I have to wind it back about half a turn from fully tight so it's upright and then tighten it with the 4mm hex screw. This must be leaving a slight gap between the brake and the barrel. Should there be a shim in there to stop the brake moving? The brake has never moved but I just wanted to check I'm not missing anything?
 
Question for all you AI Guys

I have the AXMC Long action rifle and just have the .308 barrel at the moment. I've ordered the .338 barrel and conversion kit as well but I'm planning on just switching the muzzle brake between the 2 of them for the time being until my wallet cools off and I can order another brake.

My question is does the AI brake require any shims to time it to the barrel properly or not? When I screw mine onto the .308 barrel I have to wind it back about half a turn from fully tight so it's upright and then tighten it with the 4mm hex screw. This must be leaving a slight gap between the brake and the barrel. Should there be a shim in there to stop the brake moving? The brake has never moved but I just wanted to check I'm not missing anything?

To answer your question, no you do not need to shim it.
 
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I took the new AT out to Quantico for a 1,000y range day today. Even though it was raining and supposed to rain throughout the morning, there were still a few of us on the line. I also had a guest in Scott Seigmund from AINA. On a whim, when I noted that AINA was right in F'burg (all of 12 miles away) I sent a note to the info e-mail addy asking if "they" wanted to shoot LR on R4 (which we do each weekend). Heck if Scott didn't reply, and came out to join the Quantico Shooting Club. While he didn't shoot today, it was a pleasure to meet him and learn a bit more about his shooting passions; I know we'll be seeing him on the line as his schedule permits. I know, CSB...

Anyways, I brought the AT with me and even though it wasn't sighted, I shot at 4" clays on the berm (1,035y) to get a read on where it was hitting. A few adjustments and 10rds later I was at least on target. I think I like this rifle, incredibly smooth bolt, excellent ergonomics and it seems like it just "fits" me; I will be naming the AT "Darlene." On the 1,000y line at Quantico.

IMG_0743-1_JPG-935386.jpg

I was wondering what that farting sound was that was coming from my right.... Nice that you got it on the birds so quickly.

20190308_185535.jpg
 
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I was wondering what that farting sound was that was coming from my right.... Nice that you got it on the birds so quickly.

View attachment 7073805

Swapped out the Vortex PST in Smith rings to a Vortex Razor in an ERA-TAC adjustable base and swapped out the .338 LM with a .300 WM so I can reduce the noise with a Thunder Beast 30BA.

20190505_114556.jpg
 
My friend trying out the AT. I cant remember the exact range of this target but if I remember correctly it's somewhere around 600 yards. The 140 ELD-M 6.5 still has a decent amount of umph at that range.

20190226_145733 by Chase Ditwiler, on Flickr

I hate when people shoot the cacti.
 
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I find my AT feels more ?? solid?? when I shoot it than my AX. I have had the AT 2 years and the AX is a recent acquisition, so maybe it's just familiarity and I don't have the AX set up just right yet, but..... right now I feel that if I had to go to war with one of them:ROFLMAO: (along with my arthritis pills) I'd take the AT, who woulda thunk???
When I settled behind the AT it just feels SOLID and I don't get that feel yet with the AX.
 
I find my AT feels more ?? solid?? when I shoot it than my AX. I have had the AT 2 years and the AX is a recent acquisition, so maybe it's just familiarity and I don't have the AX set up just right yet, but..... right now I feel that if I had to go to war with one of them:ROFLMAO: (along with my arthritis pills) I'd take the AT, who woulda thunk???
When I settled behind the AT it just feels SOLID and I don't get that feel yet with the AX.

It’s a personal preference. Straight chassis rifles feel different than either stocks or chassis that have traditional-ish shapes to them.

Nothing wrong with either and nothing wrong with preferring either. I prefer AT for positional and AX for prone. Both are awesome.
 
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I’ve got the shorter handguard on mine. This is with the 20” .308 barrel mounted.

View attachment 7075448

That's sick I wanna run a short 1/8 twist 308 for subs but I'm having a hard time finding a shorter handguard anywhere. Mh and euro both don't have one might just have to cut an inch off mine.
 
I’m happy with the 13” tube. I just need the barrel cut to 16” to get it the way I want it.

Edit: I wish I could tell you where to find one, but I didn’t even find mine. I bought my rifle used, and it already had the short tube. Lucked out, cause I would’ve been hunting one too.
 
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I have an incredibly noob question that I'm almost ashamed to ask:

If I were to take the barrel I have in my AT currently and put it in a new SA AX, would the brass I've shot in the barrel while its an AT still be fire formed for the same barrel in the AX? Basically, does the action have any effect on it?
 
It shouldn't, no. There are stories of guys sharing a bolt at a match because someone lost/damaged theirs. Both rifles shot just fine.

You should be FL resizing for a field rifle, IMO, so unless the swap gives you a wildly out of spec headspace (which it shouldn't), the FL size should assure reliable functioning.
 
@bfk4lyfe it will be close, but not the same. I did exactly what you said when I switched to an AX a few months ago, and the headspace with the AX was about 2 to 4 thousandths shorter, and I couldn’t chamber loaded rounds from my AT. I was even using the same bolt from my AT as I needed the small firing pin.
 
I plan on FL sizing the brass and bumping the shoulder back .002, not neck sizing...if that makes a diff. I haven't reloaded any loads for it yet, they're all still just fresh empty casings.

You may find that you need to bump the shoulder more or less than 0.002” on the first resize if you’re switching the barrel to a different action. The difference between them may require you to bump the AT fired brass back 0.005” to fit properly in the AX (just a made up example). Then after you fire those cases in the AX you will only need to size them back 0.002” from then on forward.

It’s always good to check your FL sized cases in the chamber with the firing pin assembly removed so you can “feel” how the brass fits. You can size brass without measuring bump simply by iteratively sizing, chambering, and adjusting the die.
 
You may find that you need to bump the shoulder more or less than 0.002” on the first resize if you’re switching the barrel to a different action. The difference between them may require you to bump the AT fired brass back 0.005” to fit properly in the AX (just a made up example). Then after you fire those cases in the AX you will only need to size them back 0.002” from then on forward.

It’s always good to check your FL sized cases in the chamber with the firing pin assembly removed so you can “feel” how the brass fits. You can size brass without measuring bump simply by iteratively sizing, chambering, and adjusting the die.

Got it thanks, makes sense.
 
Any of you axmc axsa guys know if the handguards are interchangable? @AIAW

From what I have heard the pre-2014 handguards are not compatible with the post-2014's. Not sure what the differences are as I don't have a pre-2014 AX any longer.

That might just be something no one has tried... yet. Can't speak from personal experience unfortunately.

I know they are different between the PSR and the AXMC (PSR required a handguard removal to change barrels).
 
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