You’re talking about the two bolts that hold this plate on?
I’ll definitely send you pics of my holes, but I don’t have a way to measure their depth at the moment.
You’re talking about the two bolts that hold this plate on?
I’ll definitely send you pics of my holes, but I don’t have a way to measure their depth at the moment.
No clue, can honestly say I've never had one feel rough or sticky. Have you ever tried a dry film lube on the bolt body?
Yes that I beam piece that plate is bolted to. I'm wondering if I could mill that I beam down to almost nothing.
I wondered how long it would take any of y’all to pick up on that! Was beginning to get concerned when nobody here thought that was weird…
In the AI thread here all my weird needle did was shiver....
Might even break out some epoxy too!
Yeah man, compared to herpes I can’t complain about the flu.
Might have been answered before - but what’s the key difference which makes say, the Sako TRG bolt lifts soooooo smooth compared to those on AIs?
Along the same lines - what makes the Sauer STR 200’s bolt so Stangskyting smooth?
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@Edsel trg bolt lift really is easier to lift. The bolt though i wouldn't say it's smoother, it's different though. The TRG feels like gliding velvet, smooth as butter but not slick. The AI is like sliding ice on glass.
I've always liked factory remingtons though so maybe my opinion doesn't mean much.
I've always liked factory remingtons though so maybe my opinion doesn't mean much.
I measured the difference on my AT-X and TRG A1 bolt lifts with a trigger pull gage. The AI was 11.5lbs, and the TRG was just over 9. Obviously other models of the AI would narrow this gap.
I don't notice any advantage one way or another over the rest of the cycle, but they do feel and sound different enough that you could tell them apart blindfolded.
Where the TRG is crazy slick though is in feeding the next round (my sample of 1). My first few mags I had to keep checking to see that I actually picked up a cartridge and didn't go bolt over. It is easily the smoothest rifle that I own in that regard.
The AI has several advantages though that make it a step above IMO...but I'm still glad that I have my Sako too.
I don't notice any advantage one way or another over the rest of the cycle, but they do feel and sound different enough that you could tell them apart blindfolded.
Where the TRG is crazy slick though is in feeding the next round (my sample of 1). My first few mags I had to keep checking to see that I actually picked up a cartridge and didn't go bolt over. It is easily the smoothest rifle that I own in that regard.
The AI has several advantages though that make it a step above IMO...but I'm still glad that I have my Sako too.
@diggler1833 100% agree on feeding. If it's quiet I can hear the rounds strip from the mag but if not it's really hard to tell if you got a round or you are empty. I can't think of another gun I've ever owned that feeds that smooth.
My old 2014 AT that belonged to my SS friend is so unbelievably slick that I would stick it up against almost anything. You almost don't feel the weight of the bolt lift but that is because it is so smooth, not because the bolt lift is light.
Does anyone know what the purpose of this is? I have gone through one of my maintenance manuals and in the exploded diagram, it doesn't seem to have any particular function, yet in the bolt disassembly instructions, you are instructed to depress this when removing the FP+shroud assembly, even though you can do this without pushing the thingy in.
Generic picture below, but FWIW I have an AW bolt and there are no notches for this location pin to slot into.
Generic picture below, but FWIW I have an AW bolt and there are no notches for this location pin to slot into.
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That's what I gathered from some videos I just watched. I can disassemble my bolts without pressing that at all. To me it just seemed like another spring making it harder to close the bolt. Weird.
Wanted to run a barrel contour question by you guys. Anyone ever put a #5 contour on their AI?
Background:
This will be a coyote and pdog barrel (22-250, I don’t reload), so with coyotes that means a bit of walking. I could go with a lighter #5 contour or a M24/M40. Going 20”-ish, so not sure how much weight I’d save at that length.
@Frank Green implies the M24/M40 is either identical or quite close to the current so-called “2018” contour. I might be reading too much into his statement.
But I don’t have a feel for the #5. Never seen one, or if I did I didn’t know it at the time.
I do know that the 20” factory 308 that came on the rifle definitely has a slimmer contour than the 6br prefit I bought from Mile High.
Thanks for your help.
Background:
This will be a coyote and pdog barrel (22-250, I don’t reload), so with coyotes that means a bit of walking. I could go with a lighter #5 contour or a M24/M40. Going 20”-ish, so not sure how much weight I’d save at that length.
@Frank Green implies the M24/M40 is either identical or quite close to the current so-called “2018” contour. I might be reading too much into his statement.
But I don’t have a feel for the #5. Never seen one, or if I did I didn’t know it at the time.
I do know that the 20” factory 308 that came on the rifle definitely has a slimmer contour than the 6br prefit I bought from Mile High.
Thanks for your help.
I don't think you would be saving a whole lot of weight between a 5 and m24 at 20". Not enough to notice at least. A medium or heavy palma would cut (estimating) a good 1lb off the setup but still leave a lot of meat by the chamber and throat.
I wanted to lighten up an AT-X and shoot it in some prone matches, slung up. The 24 and 26 inch Medium Palma barrels I got from PVA seem to work well enough. The rifle is still right at 14 pounds with a Vortex Golden Eagle on it, but it is fine in position.
The joy of the Barrel QuickLoc Clamp Screw is you can change barrels in a few minutes. If one profile seems lacking, moving on is easy.
I would not hesitate to go with an even lighter profile and shorter length if I were trying to get rid of weight.
I still have a bunch of 22-250 brass and dies to reload it, but, I'd pass on getting a 22-250 barrel for my own AT-X because I don't want to have to learn about feeding that case through the magazine.
The joy of the Barrel QuickLoc Clamp Screw is you can change barrels in a few minutes. If one profile seems lacking, moving on is easy.
I would not hesitate to go with an even lighter profile and shorter length if I were trying to get rid of weight.
I still have a bunch of 22-250 brass and dies to reload it, but, I'd pass on getting a 22-250 barrel for my own AT-X because I don't want to have to learn about feeding that case through the magazine.
Could have been worse. He could have put a MK5 on there.
I suppose the $100 tripod could collapse any moment from the alleged bank vault sitting on top of it as well. What was I even thinking buying AI’s again.
Haha
I’m serious though. Those first gen bar clamps were dropping like flies just fyi. I run the next gen on my AI’s. Have spurh on both of them one being a ZCO 527 and the other a NF ATACR 735.
The NF mount cracked and was replaced. The bar on that one was the second gen which is the same as the mount you bought from px. Replacement has been good. But keep an eye on it. Especially with a tank of a scope if the Gen III is as heavy as earlier models
I won’t crowd this thread with spuhr posts but research it if you want. The thicker mounts aren’t as bad. But the flat bars had major issues. My NF mount has the same 4 screw clamp as that fde one you bought. My ZCO is a 5 screw clamp which hasn’t had issues
@CStroud
www.snipershide.com
Rifle Scopes - Well I cracked a Spuhr mount…!!
Asked a question a while back on spuhr mounts cracking. Just generally curious how big of an issue it was. While mounting my 4th spuhr mount today I got to find out for myself…. This SP-4002 appears to have the beefed up cross bar for mounting to the picatinny rail but I actually felt it crack...
www.snipershide.com
Well, it’s just current barrel availability, plus I want it threaded 5/8-24 so it becomes harder to do that the lighter the contour. The barrels I’ve found in stock are either a #5 or a m24.
Anyway, can anyone compare a #5 contour to either the 2018 contour AI barrel or the lighter AI contour? Man, I wish barrel manufacturers just posted a pic of their contours or something.
Is it just me or were these around $750 a few months ago? It's like the Ai stuff is going into orbit!
$1,000 for a new AiSa bolt.
$1,000 for a new AiSa bolt.
Same with Sako, a trg bipod is now 780 Euros. Magazine in 338 is 270 Euros...i know because i bought both last week. Got a good discount, still paid almost 1000 Euros for both. Thats just insane.
The Sako TRG bipod has always been expensive but I remember when it was in the $400 range then shot up to $500ish and stayed there for years.
Which says a lot coming from an Ultimatum owner
Oh mate, what’s worse is that the Deadline 2 is noticeably smoother and lighter than all 3 of the AIs I’ve owned. My current AT is the best of the lot though.
Here go
Spuhr is over rated. Prove me wrong
Price Cracked mounting plates Causes some scopes to lock up the magnification ring. Rare reports of cracked ring top halves. Buy a set of NightForce. More durable and almost as many Mount options for rails red dots etc. and cheaper.
www.snipershide.com
I think your talking about the 6518 contour. Has a really short breech length and then a quick taper down to like .900" diameter and it's .900" at the muzzle correct?
That contour would be lighter than a M40 contour.
Not sure what/who's #5 contour you are talking about.
A Remington varmint contour vs the AW contour as in the pic below... weight wise about a wash.
I've got multiple AI "2018" barrels and M24s. I can do a SxS bit of measuring for you if need. Weight will be an apples to oranges unfortunately because my only M24 tube off of a rifle right at the moment is 3" longer than my AI barrel that is also sitting off a rifle.
rough number.... a piece of material .900" in diameter x 1" long will weigh approx. .183#. Take 3" off and your looking at about a .5# of weight on the barrel + or - depending if your taking the length off or adding the length to the barrel.
Not to speak for RR33, but I was an RSO behind one a couple weeks ago and it was a significant backblast.
Nothing is "wrong" with it. I run them on most all of my short actions. But in my opinion, my Gen 2 Fat Bastard on my 300 Norma reduces recoil more than the sidewinder, and does so with less backblast.
