Accuracy International Picture Thread

Yeah. Triggers aren’t backward compatible. A tad different. And there’s a pin to secure the trigger.
Taking the action apart is a tad PITA, as one of the 5 screws is underneath the mag release and you have to angle the ball hex to get it loose while you push the mag release forward. I think I make this comp trigger have a heavier pull weight

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Had a chance to shoot 1100yds (1005 meters) with my AXMC this past weekend. First time going past 200yds. The farthest target was near the top of the tallest hill in this picture.

Winds were swirling and the different enough between the bench position and the target that it was impossible to get a good reading for holds. Ended up holding between 2 to 6 Mils on any given shot just based on visuals (there’s a small flag near the target).

I’m not an experienced shooter but walked away hitting steel pretty easily (sudden wind changes being the only foil). Shooting AI feels like shooting predictable laser beams sometimes.
 
View attachment 7173464

Had a chance to shoot 1100yds (1005 meters) with my AXMC this past weekend. First time going past 200yds. The farthest target was near the top of the tallest hill in this picture.

Winds were swirling and the different enough between the bench position and the target that it was impossible to get a good reading for holds. Ended up holding between 2 to 6 Mils on any given shot just based on visuals (there’s a small flag near the target).

I’m not an experienced shooter but walked away hitting steel pretty easily (sudden wind changes being the only foil). Shooting AI feels like shooting predictable laser beams sometimes.

That range is fantastic isn't it? Did you try for the 10x10 diamond steel at 1013y? There are also 12" plates all over the place at varying distances. I have an AI AT in 6.5 and it took me about 3 to 4 shots to make the hit on the diamond. After getting my Kestrel trued up, hitting everything around range is fairly easy. I think the silhouette at 800 is probably one of the harder targets to hit there.
 
That range is fantastic isn't it? Did you try for the 10x10 diamond steel at 1013y? There are also 12" plates all over the place at varying distances. I have an AI AT in 6.5 and it took me about 3 to 4 shots to make the hit on the diamond. After getting my Kestrel trued up, hitting everything around range is fairly easy. I think the silhouette at 800 is probably one of the harder targets to hit there.

I hit just about everything on both paths, including the circular plates dotted around the place, but didn't try the diamond. Wind conditions were not favorable (if you remember what it was like this past weekend. Brutal). If I go out on a better day next time, I'll make sure to take a shot at it. Theoretically should just be an MOA shot, so what could go wrong :sneaky::LOL:
 
I hit just about everything on both paths, including the circular plates dotted around the place, but didn't try the diamond. Wind conditions were not favorable (if you remember what it was like this past weekend. Brutal). If I go out on a better day next time, I'll make sure to take a shot at it. Theoretically should just be an MOA shot, so what could go wrong :sneaky::LOL:
So far i had been lucky with the wind having been there 3x now. But shooting in the wind we had last weekend, man thats like playing the lottery.
 
View attachment 7173464

Had a chance to shoot 1100yds (1005 meters) with my AXMC this past weekend. First time going past 200yds. The farthest target was near the top of the tallest hill in this picture.

Winds were swirling and the different enough between the bench position and the target that it was impossible to get a good reading for holds. Ended up holding between 2 to 6 Mils on any given shot just based on visuals (there’s a small flag near the target).

I’m not an experienced shooter but walked away hitting steel pretty easily (sudden wind changes being the only foil). Shooting AI feels like shooting predictable laser beams sometimes.


where is that
 
I hate you all. :) Quantico AI mafia shooting buddy turned me on to a sale so I agonized for a day and ended up buying a .260 AX in Pale Brown. Now all I have to do is sell of the new this season AT/AX. If anyone has a cure for the sickness, please PM me...
 
Btw I’ve posted them before, but here are the torque values I was given when I enquired directly with Accuracy International England for my AX.308.

Might be of use to people, if they don’t know already:

Butt Pad 3.5Nm or 30 in/lb

Stock sides 0.8Nm or 7 in/lb

Back strap 1Nm or 9 in/lb

Forend Grip 2Nm / 18 in/lb

Keyslot rails 4Nm or 35 in/lb

Forend retaining screws 5Nm or 45 in/lb

Barrel Clamp screw 5.5Nm or 49 in/lb

Trigger blade screw 0.8Nm or 7 in/lb

Muzzle clamp 4Nm or 35 in/lb
 
Btw I’ve posted them before, but here are the torque values I was given when I enquired directly with Accuracy International England for my AX.308.

Might be of use to people, if they don’t know already:

Butt Pad 3.5Nm or 30 in/lb

Stock sides 0.8Nm or 7 in/lb

Back strap 1Nm or 9 in/lb

Forend Grip 2Nm / 18 in/lb

Keyslot rails 4Nm or 35 in/lb

Forend retaining screws 5Nm or 45 in/lb

Barrel Clamp screw 5.5Nm or 49 in/lb

Trigger blade screw 0.8Nm or 7 in/lb

Muzzle clamp 4Nm or 35 in/lb
A new AI shooter thanks you muchly!
 
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Anyone try to put together a relatively lightweight AI? I'm thinking a 16 inch proof 308 with a NF 2.5-10 would be about 14 pounds or so on an AT?

For what it’s worth, my AT with the factory 24” 308 barrel, cal bipod on a spigot mount and AMG in a spuhr mount weighs 16 pounds. Will be getting a Proof barrel at some point to drop even more weight.
 
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The unlimited swivel on my AT flush cups is driving me absolutely insane. Plus.... I have always been more of an HK loop kind of guy anyhow. Are there any options out there for a way to change out from flush cup to HK loop on an AT forend? To go even further, how about buttstock?
 
The unlimited swivel on my AT flush cups is driving me absolutely insane. Plus.... I have always been more of an HK loop kind of guy anyhow. Are there any options out there for a way to change out from flush cup to HK loop on an AT forend? To go even further, how about buttstock?

Change out, not so much. Adapt, yes.


 
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Check this out from Victor Company, I believe it will work on an AT and is anti-rotation to boot.
https://victorcompanyusa.com/buy-1?olsPage=products/rear-quick-detach-sling-mount
Yep, thanks for the suggestion. I think we have a real winner here!

The front QD on an AT is a challenge because it's threaded into the bipod block, hence why it can't be anti-rotation, it will just unscrew it.

If you want a semi-ghetto solution, you could install one of my picatinny bipod mounts, then bolt on an anti-rotation qd mount to the pic rail. Just an idea, I know it's not perfect.

Thanks for the idea, I think for the time being I'll just try out this Magpul QD paraclip.
QD Paraclip
It puts the sling tie in point up closer to the barrel, which hopefully pulls the rifle in more towards my body during patrol style carry. Plus it's only $20.

At the end of the day, I really don't even see myself needing that entire bipod block at all. Tried a spigot and didn't like that I couldn't reach it from behind the rifle (really short arms.) I've got a full length RRS rail. I was thinking about taking my skins off and seeing if I could just delete the whole block and save some weight. But then I'm back without a sling attachment again. Haha.
 
MLOK portion got stuck. Had to remove forend to take it out. These barrels need a 1.350 shank diameter (Same as PSR/ AXMC). So with these Gayness (MLOK) you basically have to remove the forend everytime you take out a barrel as it won't come out since the gayness will be in the way. Unless you want to remove the accessory rails instead everytime you put on and take off the barrel.

I'm not familiar with the ASR MLOK attachments, but on our Hammer Rail this isn't true. You can put on our Maxim pic rails easily and the barrel will come right out. Now I'm sure there are some MLOK attachments (since they are made by everyone under the sun) that will get the barrel stuck, but this is really a non-issue with our HR1.
 
I'm not familiar with the ASR MLOK attachments, but on our Hammer Rail this isn't true. You can put on our Maxim pic rails easily and the barrel will come right out. Now I'm sure there are some MLOK attachments (since they are made by everyone under the sun) that will get the barrel stuck, but this is really a non-issue with our HR1.

Have you tried it with an AXMC barrel? Cause they use a large tenon (M30 vs M27). That's where the problem is. You can use a 1.200-1.250" Shanks on the short action AX/ AT/ AW/ AWM/ AWSM etc, but the PSR/ AXMC/ AX ASR need a minimum 1.350" Shank diameter. And the MLOK gets in the way.

Plus, there's a reason they kept this kit with MLOK forend, cause of the ASR Solicition. They're going back to KeySlot on the AXSR's cause "it's twice as strong"...
 
Interesting. All the media I’ve seen shows all the mags in black. Is the bottom of the mag black too? Thanks for sharing your set up with us. This is the dream rifle.

Only the base plate of the short action mags are black. Every other part is tan, including the 10 NM mags.

I’d have to agree with you, it’s definitely a cool piece. I’ll be even more stoked when my TBAC clears so it’ll be the full kit
 
I'm being told that a barrel blank needs 4.5 inches of shank to be made into an AT barrel, is that the case?

That's a big negative.... Cause you can use any Palma Contour which is 3" long or MTU at 2.75" Long.

Just make sure the shank diameter is 1.200-1.250.

The breach face to the shoulder is 1.5" in length. So I wuld assume you need a minimum 2" shank length....

maybe that smith wants a longer shank so his lathe has something to grab onto...
 
Anyone using the Proof steel drop in barrels? Saw them advertised at $600-$650 and considering trying one out on my AX just to have a backup when the Wintac 6.5 is shot out. I've been hearing great reviews on the Proof steel (and Carbon) barrels.