Gunsmithing Ackley Improving a #1

CowboyBart

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 14, 2007
486
10
North West WY
Finally got an item off my bucket list and picked up a Ruger #1 in 280. I'm thinking of making this an Ackley IMP and need help on the math.
How do I know how much to set the barrel back to keep the quarter rib indexed?? Is there a formula for threads per inch??

Also, can I use the existing 6.5-06 AI reamer that I have for this project? If I bush up the reamer and use a neck and throat reamer, will this work? I'll have to go in a little deeper to get the shoulder location correct. But my way of thinking - this will work.

Do GO and NO GO gauges work the same way on a #1 as they would on bolt??
 
I believe the #1 is 16 TPI so for a complete revolution you would remove .0625". If it is not 16 TPI then take the reciprocal of the actual TPI (divide 1 by the TPI, 1/16=.0625").
 
Are you sure your barrel and rifle combination are accurate enough to bother? Neither is known for accuracy, to say the least.
Secondly, why bother anyway. You get expense, poor shoulder angle, fire forming hassle and very little velocity gain. Most of the gain from AI ctg's are gained by over loading, which can be done to a standard ctg just as well. JMO
It is all very simple, 7% more powder=3% more velocity. Any further gain is from over pressure loading.
If you need more velocity from a 7MM, you might consider a 7MM Rem mag or larger. It will cost less, be easier overall and have more velocity.
RTH
 
Are you sure your barrel and rifle combination are accurate enough to bother? Neither is known for accuracy, to say the least.
Secondly, why bother anyway. You get expense, poor shoulder angle, fire forming hassle and very little velocity gain. Most of the gain from AI ctg's are gained by over loading, which can be done to a standard ctg just as well. JMO
It is all very simple, 7% more powder=3% more velocity. Any further gain is from over pressure loading.
If you need more velocity from a 7MM, you might consider a 7MM Rem mag or larger. It will cost less, be easier overall and have more velocity.
RTH

Except the 280 Ackley is one of the best if not the best Ackley out there. It will do pretty much what the 7 Mag does with less powder and no belted case to deal with.

I'm with you though on why go to the trouble on a #1. I think I'd leave it as is.
 
The best the gun has shot is .5" @ 100. It is usually .6"-.7". Impressive for a #1.
Not looking for a whole bunch of velocity gain - just want the "cool" factor of the round. My 30-06 AI, 30-30 AI have been good rounds. I will get a 6.5-06 AI when I come across $$ for a barrel.

Thanks for the formula Aeon1

The expense of this and the brass is minimal. If I exclude my time to load the fireform load, it is about $.12/ round to fireform. 5-8grs of Green Dot, cast lead bullets from free wheel weights and a primer. The shoulder angle is superior because it reduces case stretching thus trimming. I don't have feed issues to worry about as it is a single shot.
Why get a 7 RM when I have a 264 WM!!
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't even bother setting it back. The AI "go" is only .005" shorter than a 280. Might be a little tricky deciding when to stop cutting without a borescope if you have bad eyes like me. Just seat the bullet into the lands to fireform and you should be GTG.
 
Are you sure your barrel and rifle combination are accurate enough to bother? Neither is known for accuracy, to say the least.
Secondly, why bother anyway. You get expense, poor shoulder angle, fire forming hassle and very little velocity gain. Most of the gain from AI ctg's are gained by over loading, which can be done to a standard ctg just as well. JMO
It is all very simple, 7% more powder=3% more velocity. Any further gain is from over pressure loading.
If you need more velocity from a 7MM, you might consider a 7MM Rem mag or larger. It will cost less, be easier overall and have more velocity.
RTH


I have a No1 Stainless in 25-06 that will shoot under 1/2" with reloads. Only thing that isn't stock is a Hicks Accurizer was installed and forend bedded. My buddy helped me with it. We did pre groups and post groups and it knocked a full inch off the size with the same load. I did have a 243 that was a beautiful rifle but even with the hicks it didn't bring it in.

The 280AI is a great round and very much worth the trouble. I built one in 2010 on a stock/barrel that was given to me for X-mas and upon taking it to the LR side of Tac Pro started buying the parts to build a LR rifle in the caliber.
 
I say go for it. I also recommend that you don't waste all of that time fire forming brass. Just find a load that works with virgin brass and the bullet touching the lands and run that load till all of your brass is sized. I do this in my 22-250AI and the fire forming load shoots just as accurately as my formed brass load. No wasted time, components, or rounds through the barrel.
 
Ruger1V2007-5-2315grBlueDot33grVmax2170100yardstext.jpg
Ruger #1V 223 used on Auction arms for $499 on 4/29/2007

First time I shot is with some ammo that was lying around