Gunsmithing Advice on Bending a Bolt Handle
- Thread starter mdesign
- Start date
I did one of mine a year or so back.
I used a factory handle to get an idea of where the center of the bend needed to be and drew a line on the handle to be bent. I also cut a chunk of carboard to the same angle as the factory handle.
Then I clamped the bolt in a vise with relatively smooth jaws using the line I had drawn to determine where to position the handle in the vise. The edge of the vise jaws are going to determine where the bend occurs.... basically their going to act as a die of sorts.
Then I used a cutting torch set low to put some heat on the handle, centered on the mark(edge of jaws). When it hit dull red, I started tapping on the knob until I had the angle I was after. If you have a thread on knob, you're going to have to strike the handle and not the knob. There was a small amount of blending that needed to be done afterward.
I'm not gonna bullshit you, if you're not accustomed to working with steel, this project could get interesting (and expensive). You might consider practicing on some round or square bar first, or having it done by a pro.
Remember to keep heat away from the critical areas of the bolt. You don't want anything but the handle getting hot. Putting heat to a firearm isn't something to be taken lightly.
I used a factory handle to get an idea of where the center of the bend needed to be and drew a line on the handle to be bent. I also cut a chunk of carboard to the same angle as the factory handle.
Then I clamped the bolt in a vise with relatively smooth jaws using the line I had drawn to determine where to position the handle in the vise. The edge of the vise jaws are going to determine where the bend occurs.... basically their going to act as a die of sorts.
Then I used a cutting torch set low to put some heat on the handle, centered on the mark(edge of jaws). When it hit dull red, I started tapping on the knob until I had the angle I was after. If you have a thread on knob, you're going to have to strike the handle and not the knob. There was a small amount of blending that needed to be done afterward.
I'm not gonna bullshit you, if you're not accustomed to working with steel, this project could get interesting (and expensive). You might consider practicing on some round or square bar first, or having it done by a pro.
Remember to keep heat away from the critical areas of the bolt. You don't want anything but the handle getting hot. Putting heat to a firearm isn't something to be taken lightly.
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LOL I tried this a while back.. Ended up sending the bolt back to Dan to get a new handle welded on. Luckily I didn't ruin my bolt but it was still a costly lesson.
I have bent dozens of military Mauser bolt handles.
Brownells sells a kit
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ools/mauser-bolt-forging-blocks-prod1019.aspx
We [my brother and I] put welding paste up inside the bolt body so the heat treat is not affected at the cocking cam.
We put a big mill vise in the middle of the shop on a low bench.
We wear welding goggles.
One of us runs the Oxyacetylene torch while the other uses a sledge hammer and the "Extra large Forming Punch " as Brownells calls it.
As soon as the bolt handle is bent, we lower the cool end of the bolt into water, so the heat tread of that end does not change.
The problem with bent Mauser handles is that they are then kind of short.
The new Mausers cost $1k more with handles forged one piece with the body, so I hate to cut them off at the base before TIG welding.
So we sometimes bend the bolt, and then TIG weld an extension.
To clean up the weld, I have made a fixture for the lathe that holds bolts with the handle on center.
Brownells sells a kit
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ools/mauser-bolt-forging-blocks-prod1019.aspx
We [my brother and I] put welding paste up inside the bolt body so the heat treat is not affected at the cocking cam.
We put a big mill vise in the middle of the shop on a low bench.
We wear welding goggles.
One of us runs the Oxyacetylene torch while the other uses a sledge hammer and the "Extra large Forming Punch " as Brownells calls it.
As soon as the bolt handle is bent, we lower the cool end of the bolt into water, so the heat tread of that end does not change.
The problem with bent Mauser handles is that they are then kind of short.
The new Mausers cost $1k more with handles forged one piece with the body, so I hate to cut them off at the base before TIG welding.
So we sometimes bend the bolt, and then TIG weld an extension.
To clean up the weld, I have made a fixture for the lathe that holds bolts with the handle on center.
Thanks, I think I have this figured out and can get it done. The Brownells kit will help me hold it, the heat management portion I understand pretty well. Probably do a dry run or two to perfect the method before I bend the good handle.
