Advice on new AR-10, learning precision shooting

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

Hello,

I just put together a budget 18" .308 AR-10 from PSA and am planning on using it to learn some basics of precision shooting. I know there are better options but it's what I got. I zeroed at 100 meters and I am using cheap Aguila 7.62 150 gr FMJ. I'm using a primary arms FFP 4-16 mil dot scope. Once again I know there are better options but in the current climate it's all I have access to/money for. I have about 500 rnds of Aguila 150 gr, 500 of 147gr, and 300 or so .308 147gr. I bought what I could get at the time just to have some ammo. Reloading isn't an option for me currently given scarcity of components. I have a basic box set single stage reloading press and some accessories but I am at step 0 for reloading. Too much of a hassle given my busy schedule to start reloading right now, on top of the scarcity. I had a couple questions, appreciate any advice.

My intentions for the rifle, as I said, are to learn the basics of precision shooting, probably hunt with it since I don't want to fork up the money to buy another rifle just for hunting.

Before I start getting dope and spending ammunition, should I install a better barrel now or does it even matter since I'm using factory ammo? I was considering a PROOF research carbon fiber barrel, or maybe something cheaper. Not sure. I know the carbon fiber is the popular thing but I don't really care as long as it shoots well.

How much trouble will I run into using the 3 different types of ammo? I know I'll have to re-zero but I am guessing I will have to re-dope every time I switch rounds? In addition, even if I find a 150gr hunting bullet I would still have to get my dope for that as well?

Part 2 of the above question, if I get dope for a hunting round will I be able to re-zero every time I want to go hunting and use my old dope?

Should I get a chronograph to help with ballistic calculations or is there another method for determining velocity? (for the purposes of dope)

Any help appreciated, thanks.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Start with the barrel and ammo you have. Use it to work on fundamentals. It will all shoot and dope differently - I'd run one lot at a time then switch and re-zero and re-dope.

Skip the chronograph for dope. Use the weaponized math and write down actuals in a notebook, or highlight it on the jackmaster cards.

Predictable Weaponized Math and “X-Factor” Voodoo

Follow Sniper's Hide and pick up the latest information on all things precision rifle related. Sniper's Hide Training is for the serious tactical marksman.

www.snipershide.com

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

Thanks for the advice. On average how many rounds should I be using to get my dope out to say 800m?

 

[svxwilson]

All ammo groups differently, I would take all 3 options to the range and see what the rifle shoots best and shoot all of that first. Generally speaking with a 308 to get the best long range results will be with heavier projectiles than what you have. I would look at 168-175gr when your getting ready to buy more.

Get a good trigger before an upgraded barrel. I like JPs single stage roller ball or Giesselle SSA-E as great long range options.

Next thing I would do If I was you would be to actually join this community and pay the monthly fee and get tons of resources in the training area. Shooting an AR for precision is my favorite thing to do, but its also more difficult than a bolt gun to do it well. The videos and write ups in the training section are amazing.

 

[svxwilson]

Weaponized math takes 1-2 bullets per 100 yards of test and it starts at 300 yards after you habe a good 100 yard zero. So theoretically it would take 5-10 bullets to get the 800yrd dope.

 

[longshot2000]

Good advise here from @svxwilson and @TheOfficeT-Rex on getting to know what you have first. I am not familiar with this gun, but PSA has good and they have average products. The truth is much of their products are better than their reputation (as the low price leader).

Once you get to know the gun -- and the trigger advise is good as well -- you can make a decision: is this platform a keeper or not. You will determine if the receivers and BCG are worth keeping, or if you upgrade. If you upgrade, then the question is do you upgrade the parts or the gun itself. I do not know, and you will make that call. The trigger (Geissele, etc.) can be pulled out and used on a different gun, probably, so not wasted.

That said, I think if you keep the receivers, the first upgrade would be for a barrel, but not all AR10 upper receivers will accept the other guy's barrel, like and AR15, so you will need to do some homework. For me, Proof would not be my first choice, but they make an attractive barrel with some weight and heat saving properties, so not a bad choice. I just have no idea if PSA gave you a 2 MOA barrel or a 1 MOA barrel. The best gas guns and barrels are usually 3/4 MOA, while many people will tell you 1/2 MOA, most also claim to need a yardstick to measure their d***, if you know what I mean. Do not underestimate the barrel. The barrel is the most important part of the AR10 or AR15.

Have fun.

 

[JustinTX]

Large frame gas guns are not as forgiving of shooter error as a bolt gun, small mistakes come to light quickly. My advice is spend some money to take a course with professional instructors, the coaching is invaluable and you will progress much quicker toward your goals.

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

Thank you very much for the advice, @svxwilson , @longshot2000 . I will definitely look into signing up for more training resources and a different trigger.

@longshot2000, what is a good metric for determining if the receiver and BCG are worth keeping?

@JustinTX, I am based in California. Do you have any recommended courses on the west coast? There is a large precision shooting club near me that I have considered joining (NorCal Practical Precision Rifle Club) as well.

 

[iktomi]

I've seen a handful of PSA builds that run just fine.

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My bias leans heavily towards gassers, for all sub magnum applications.

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How much time do you have working on your fundamentals?

Less expensive rounds with more forgiving platform may provide a better opportunity to diagnose technique issues than a 308 gasser.

I believe there is no inherent accuracy disadvantage to a gasser, but it is a more complex platform than a bolt gun. The way you mount the gun dictates not just bullet impact, but also how the gun moves while the action cycles. It can be more challenging to identify and prioritize areas for improvement without a baseline level of experience behind a long gun.

-

Generally, I would suggest verifying the basics (sight alignment, trigger press) on the lightest recoiling, simplest platform you have access to.

From there, use higher recoiling systems to (1.) start developing and understanding of body alignment on recoil, (2.) being able to read your glass through the operation of the gun, and (3.) make adjustments to body alignment based on what the reticle is telling you.

Then get behind a gasser...

-

Most of my practice is at 100 yards with an AR15.

 

[MadDuner]

I have not had a PSA build that didn't function flawlessly.

Nothing can replace good quality trigger time.... but doing so with .308 will be more expensive than .223.
Have fun. Be safe. Enjoy it all you can!

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

I’ve had a lot of time using AR platforms & heavier weapons in the military and elsewhere. I could still use work but I guess when I said fundamentals I meant learning how to dope and read wind and things related to the minutia of precision shooting. My fundamentals of marksmanship aren’t bad but all of my experience has been using BDC optics, red dots, IR lasers...knuckle dragger stuff . Maybe not a bad idea to get a scope for one of my 5.56 guns and practice on that for economy?

 

[psmith23]

As a lover of large frame AR's I'm just going to say this. Please DON'T get one for your first foray into distance shooting. Long distance is so much more than just a platform. It's knowing your ammo, dope, known repeatable zero, how density altitude and environmentals factor in, wind reading, scope tracking and above all consistency. Get a factory bolt gun with a box mag in either 223 or 308 and start there. I'd lean towards a 223 unless you really have an area to shoot past 600 yards. Used is fine Rem PSS, Sako, Tikka heck even a Savage. You can always sell it in a year. Reloading is part of this game so plan to do that as well since it will help your knowledge of standard deviation, barrel nodes, and allow you to shoot more of the same ammo. Happy to help on PM's it's nice to see new people getting into this.

 

[bfoosh006]

Sorry if I missed it, what trigger do you have right now ? ... there are easy tricks to remove any gritty feel.

And before you consider changing the PSA ( DC Machine barrel )... I'd give it a good cleaning , chamber and all. Then try your ammo.
I can't say Agulia Ammo is known for great accuracy... so don't expect fantastic results.

And the PSA barrel will probably shoot better after a break in period.

FWIW..I have had good results with PSA OEM barrels. Mine have liked 168gr FGMM

Before I forget, PSA uses DPMS pattern barrels... so you have all sorts of aftermarket barrel choices.

Did you happen to lap the upper receivers face ? IMHO, that helps consistent accuracy.

Also... a snug upper to lower fit , helps make for a more consistent wielding of the firearm.

 

[iktomi]

Maybe not a bad idea to get a scope for one of my 5.56 guns and practice on that for economy?

I get plenty of feedback on my technique shooting (relatively) inexpensive handloads (52gr Hornaday OTM, CCI 400, whatever powder to just less than compressed load) out of my 223/556/whatever at 100.

Mistakes are obvious, even with loads that aren't super dialed. Shooting at 100 eats up the SD without having to worry about optimal load development.

If my reticle moves up and left, my POI moves up and left. If the gun tracks without significant shift, POA = POI.

Good enough for my skill level.

 

[JustinTX]

Thank you very much for the advice, @svxwilson , @longshot2000 . I will definitely look into signing up for more training resources and a different trigger.

@longshot2000, what is a good metric for determining if the receiver and BCG are worth keeping?

@JustinTX, I am based in California. Do you have any recommended courses on the west coast? There is a large precision shooting club near me that I have considered joining (NorCal Practical Precision Rifle Club) as well.

I am a long way from NorCal and do not know the AO. If you get a chance to train with Frank or the CR2 folks it is money well spent. Just did a course with them and really got a lot out of it.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Hello,

I just put together a budget 18" .308 AR-10 from PSA and am planning on using it to learn some basics of precision shooting. I know there are better options but it's what I got. I zeroed at 100 meters and I am using cheap Aguila 7.62 150 gr FMJ. I'm using a primary arms FFP 4-16 mil dot scope. Once again I know there are better options but in the current climate it's all I have access to/money for. I have about 500 rnds of Aguila 150 gr, 500 of 147gr, and 300 or so .308 147gr. I bought what I could get at the time just to have some ammo. Reloading isn't an option for me currently given scarcity of components. I don't think the different brands will be a problem as long as you don't mix them together indiscriminately. Recognizing the possibility that each brand will have a somewhat (probably slight) difference in proper dope adjustment,; don't jump between the brands too frequently. I think the way to think about this is to take the differences not as a problem, but as a learning challenge. I have a basic box set single stage reloading press and some accessories but I am at step 0 for reloading. Too much of a hassle given my busy schedule to start reloading right now, on top of the scarcity. Since you don't now, but intend sometime down the road to reload; save all your fired brass. I had a couple questions, appreciate any advice.


My intentions for the rifle, as I said, are to learn the basics of precision shooting, probably hunt with it since I don't want to fork up the money to buy another rifle just for hunting. Good, reasonable plan. Many want their first gun to be super guns, with a vast range of capabilities; and I consider this to be a classic Newbie Mistake. Learn enough accuracy/marksmanship basics to become good at hunting. Then move on/up to the more precision aspects.

A Good Book helps. Others in order. Cleckner also has a new book on advanced info to follow is original book; and he also has videos, as does Frank Galli (owner of this site). You can find them on this site. Frank's book includes interludes documenting his career as a Marine Sniper, and later, Army Sniper, which could prove entertaining and informative. As a Marine, myself; I enjoyed them.


Before I start getting dope and spending ammunition, should I install a better barrel now or does it even matter since I'm using factory ammo? I was considering a PROOF research carbon fiber barrel, or maybe something cheaper. Not sure. I know the carbon fiber is the popular thing but I don't really care as long as it shoots well. Going with a premium barrel could well be premature at this time. It most likely won't show much improvement while you're using generic commercial ammo.


How much trouble will I run into using the 3 different types of ammo? I know I'll have to re-zero but I am guessing I will have to re-dope every time I switch rounds? It's not a lot of trouble, and you should write it down once you have a working setting. Later, when you return to the same ammo, your dope should not have changed appreciable, or maybe even not at all.

Yes, you can find 150gr hunting loads, but deer will respond better to 165gr hunting loads. They will have their own dope setting, but you can also write it down with the other dope. Eventually you'll find it more convenient to maintain a dope data book for each rifle (you most likely will be getting more rifles).

While I do find some difficulty with many original triggers, I also have a viewpoint that the true marksman can make the rifle work even despite some inconveniences. I guess it springs out of the old Marine Corps adage, " Adapt..., Overcome,...". When I do make a trigger replacement; I avoid hopping onto the trolley to the land of absolute best. There are some few moderately priced triggers that work quite admirably. Note the the manufacturers themselves often buy such triggers in bulk and use them as their factory trigger, but these also tend to be the more costly rifles, the more or less mid-range priced. My AR's are all equipped with the Schmid Two-Stage Nickel-Boron Trigger, which comes standard on many of the more affordable rifles, like PSA, and even Stag.

Greg

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

Wow, thanks for all the advice everyone. @psmith23 I trust your opinion but I’m just stuck with what I got. @bfoosh006 i just have the factory trigger it’s not too bad. I might lap the receiver like you said just gotta get a barrel wrench and stuff like that still.

@Greg Langelius * I will probably get one of those books. I used to have the Cleckner one but got rid of it when I was moving around a lot not shooting. I’m finally getting into precision shooting I’ve toyed with the idea for years and am just going to do it now. I am using the trigger that the pa10 came with honestly it’s better than any other rifle trigger I’ve had but I’ve never used anything but regular service triggers on semi auto rifles.

I went out today and had to leave the private range I was at early but managed to at least do a few 100 meter groups and I think it was roughly 1moa. I think I’d like a PRS stock and maybe (maybe) a bipod. I had to leave before doing more groups. I changed my technique a little after my first group kind of sucked and did the thumbless thing which actually helped.

I was kind of upset a couple nights ago as I researched reloading and what was available. Almost gave up altogether but found some powder and primers online the next morning so I’m just gonna chase this hobby finally and stop beating around the bush. It’s the only thing I’ve found enjoyment doing lately. Thanks for the advice and encouragement everyone. I think I’ll start going to the precision rifle club nearby and just see how it goes. Probably the only way I’ll be able to get my dope out to 800-1000 without going to the Nevada desert.

 

[longshot2000]

My bias leans heavily towards gassers, for all sub magnum applications.

I believe there is no inherent accuracy disadvantage to a gasser, but it is a more complex platform than a bolt gun. The way you mount the gun dictates not just bullet impact, but also how the gun moves while the action cycles. It can be more challenging to identify and prioritize areas for improvement without a baseline level of experience behind a long gun.

Most of my practice is at 100 yards with an AR15.

I have worked a wide variety of gas guns -- good ones -- and I would differ with you on the accuracy. You can get everything just right, and you are still looking at, on average, 3/4 MOA on a good day. And there is nothing wrong with that. But a finely tuned bolt gun will boast 1/2 MOA, some better.

Every now and then I see the guy who has a 1/2 MOA AR10 type rifle, and maybe he does, and maybe all the stars lined up to be lucky, or maybe it was that accurate that day, but not the next week. It is like the difference in my golf game and Tiger Woods. Every now and then I shoot under par, but not three days in a row.

That does not mean I am down on a gas gun as a precision weapon. I see production rifles from LaRue, LMT, Knights, JP that all do outstanding. And others.

Also 100 yards is different that 300 yards with a 7.62 cartridge, and 600 is different than 100. 100 yards is not a fair contest for a 7.62 NATO round. It just getting moving.

 

[_Windrider_]

3/4 MOA is a great gasser IMHO. I’m happy with that.

I have worked a wide variety of gas guns -- good ones -- and I would differ with you on the accuracy. You can get everything just right, and you are still looking at, on average, 3/4 MOA on a good day. And there is nothing wrong with that. But a finely tuned bolt gun will boast 1/2 MOA, some better.

Every now and then I see the guy who has a 1/2 MOA AR10 type rifle, and maybe he does, and maybe all the stars lined up to be lucky, or maybe it was that accurate that day, but not the next week. It is like the difference in my golf game and Tiger Woods. Every now and then I shoot under par, but not three days in a row.

That does not mean I am down on a gas gun as a precision weapon. I see production rifles from LaRue, LMT, Knights, JP that all do outstanding. And others.

Also 100 yards is different that 300 yards with a 7.62 cartridge, and 600 is different than 100. 100 yards is not a fair contest for a 7.62 NATO round. It just getting moving.

 

[Don-n-Texas]

Very interesting

 

[bfoosh006]

If your trigger is a USGI type... ( gritty feeling )

I have done the paracord trigger trick to a few of them. There doesn't seem to be adverse long term effects.
FWIW... I have only done the paracord trick for "4 pulls"... that has always been enough. ( YMMV )

I wouldn't do more than "4 pulls".

The pull weight remains the same, in all I have done, but the gritty feeling goes away.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

IMHO, aside from a well assembled AR, the barrel and the trigger make the larger impact on accuracy.

Improving trigger control is a key learnable, but a clumsy trigger just makes that learning hill too steep to climb with finesse.

Same with the barrel. If it's spraying rounds, it's very difficult to tell whether a flyer is about the barrel, the ammo, or yourself.

Nail down the hardware issues, and then you can concentrate on the skills.

I try to eliminate the variables.

How to hold the grip is one. There is a trend toward vertical grips; and I see some folks can make that work for them. I can't; so I install a grip that makes it harder to do things wrong. It's the Luth-AR Chubby Grip, and it has proper alignment references built into it for each part of the hand. It doesn't break the bank, either. Spend some time on the site and look around. There are lots of useful products on it for AR Shooter/Builders.

Barrels need to be floated; and if yours isn't, look into how to change that.

Sights. I have found that since I had my Cataracts Removed, I can usually shoot about the same with Iron sights as I can with a median power scope. But for speed, I like the Dot Scope, there's nothing to align. So if the dot is on the desired Impact point, and the sight is properly zeroed; you can shoot and there's no nonsense about aligning sight pictures between three different objects at three different distances.

For my Garand, I use the National Match reduced rear aperture sight, and a hooded match front sight with replaceable inserts. My current one is a ring on a stem, which reduces to aiming task to centering the target in the front ring and the front ring in the rear ring. It's far easier to get a proper and precise sight alignment with this aiming system.

Keeping hands on the controls is also important, and most AR shooter break this rule every time they release the bolt. I install an extended bolt release lever that allows me to simply move my trigger finger a small distance, and the bolt gets closed. The hand remains properly positioned on the grip throughout the entire bolt release process. Saves time and effort; and all of my AR's have precisely the same ergonomic setup, which means that when I pick up may AR's, any of them, the shooting hand goes directly to the ready state.

Greg

 

[Roslyn]

Thank you very much for the advice, @svxwilson , @longshot2000 . I will definitely look into signing up for more training resources and a different trigger.

@longshot2000, what is a good metric for determining if the receiver and BCG are worth keeping?

@JustinTX, I am based in California. Do you have any recommended courses on the west coast? There is a large precision shooting club near me that I have considered joining (NorCal Practical Precision Rifle Club) as well.

The NCPPRC does monthly long range matches usually on the first Sunday of the month, and practices on the Saturday before the match. You may find the occasional Friday practice as well, check out the web site at http://forum.ncpprc.com/viewforum.php?f=15 for updates on all of that. The matches are probably not a good fit for you yet, but during the practices they will spend 10 minutes at each distance, starting at 200 yards and moving out to 1000 yards. You can shoot as many or as few rounds in those ten minutes as you think necessary to figure out what you want to figure out.

They welcome new shooters and are happy to help. Most of the shooters are bolt rifle guys, but all of them own semi-autos and you will still get real help if you ask for it that will apply to your semi-auto. NCPPRC also does a long range clinic in the Spring, so look for an announcement on that if you think it might be useful. Great group of people and generous with their time and assistance.

You might also contact [email protected] -- the web site is www.cstactical.com. He is doing precision rifle classes monthly at a range in Arbuckle, CA which is northwest of Sacramento about 35 miles or so. Dan has won and placed on the podium in a bunch of national level PRS and NRL matches, good man, and a member at the NCPPRC. If you explain your situation and what you need at this point, he will find a way to get you moving the right direction with lessons or his monthly classes. His company sells all manner of gear for precision shooting, including semi auto rigs and the barrels and triggers you see mentioned on this thread for whenever you are ready to step up. They supply several LEO departments with semi auto rigs, he knows his way around them and should be able to guide you.

The recommendation someone made about lessons and training is a really good one. Nothing exposes deficiencies in your fundamentals as quickly as a large frame gasser.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Good advice just above.

If there is a rifle range/club near enough, you could try "auditing" a match or several (go to the match as an observer, and get a handle on the sequence of the various things that take place, their order, any time limits, what gear comes out and gets used when, etc). You may need the Match Director's OK to do this.

I found that when I started competing (NRA N/M course 200/300yd), the sequence of things, and the times allotted were more confusing at first than the shooting itself. Everyone goes through it before they become proficient at Match shooting; it's a basic training sort of thing. When you do jump in, learning the procedures will be the key goal, greater attention to scores comes with later matches; once the basic routine has developed for you.

When shooters are off the line and free from their chores can be a great time for questions and answers, too. You can also volunteer to work in the target pits, if that's a thing there. I found it was a also good time to chat with the competitors (once I learned how to service targets in a proper and timely manner; it's work, and done well, it's fast, too). It's just important to recognize that match shooting can get hectic, and that jumping into the middle of things with interruptions/questions can harm your chances at getting the best answers.

Some (not all) match shooters are eager to help the new guy. It can pay to keep your eye out for the ones who are smiling; it usually means that they're getting it right more often than the others.

These are opportunities to learn before doing. Arriving at a match with no idea what come next can be very frustrating and discouraging, and it doesn't have to be that way at all if one takes the time to check things out first. So do some homework first; it's worth the effort.

The more valuable point about match shooting is that it teaches routine, and also provides a degree of stress that helps drive the techniques home better.

Greg

 

[LG65CM]

I did not read all the responses, so excuse me if someone else already mentioned this: First of all, shoot the rifle as is with the ammunition you have. As far as having different cartridges for your rifle I suggest doing two things.

Get or borrow a chrono. Go to the range and get the muzzle velocities of each cartridge. Next get a ballistics app. I use Strelok Pro and is on my phone. I too have a gas gun and shoot various rounds thru it. With Strelok Pro (and I assume other ballistics apps) I can 'add cartridges' and 'change cartridges'. I input the bullet, and muzzle velocity data to the app. Then, when I use a different cartridge than the one I previously used, I change to that cartridge and the app does the rest.

No need to re-zero or keep track of the dope for each round and time I use it. I do record, in my range book, the come ups and yardages for the round I am using on the given day. But, I don't rezero my rifle for each cartridge, round, I use in the rifle.

Hope this helps, lg

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

Once again, thanks so much for all the great advice. @Greg Langelius * I have done pistol comps at Sac Valley so I know better than to jump in blind and ruin someone’s day. I do plan on doing some homework.

I may look into cstactical @Roslyn i have heard the name dropped a few times on here. I know I just have to get involved at NCPPRC one way or another, the range is only 30 mins from where I live so it’s my best bet to learn this discipline. Also I do need to learn the ropes so if I can fork out some money I’d like to go to a class.


@LG65CM thanks for advice that helps.

 

[Pappasniper]

Consider buying a bipod, Harris or if you can afford an Atlas. Learn to load the bipod. And rear bag.

On DOPE, I run all kinds of different ammo through my MWS guns. And as long as the ammo isnt way off on wind, I don't bother to re-zero. So example: ABC ammo is zeroed. ABCD ammo shoots an inch high. I just shoot it out to 800 and write the DOPE down. And you don't have to rezero to shoot that ammo. If some ammo is 2 inches off in wind, you can just adjust the windage when switching to that ammo.

Larue makes a good cheap trigger, sub $100 that would help a lot if you can't buy a nice Geissele. And you are really stretching 147's to 800 yards. It's more like 500 yard ammo. Yes, you can do it, but consistency might frustrate you so adjust your expectations with shit ammo. Still you can learn a lot with what you have. Shoot , learn and enjoy.

PB

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

I just ordered an atlas PSR bipod today and got a decent rear bag. I’m going to shoot up my cheap ammo to get brass and get reloading ASAP. I’ll look into a trigger too there’s just other stuff I need still. I really want one of the PRS stocks I don’t have a great cheek weld as of now.

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

I already decided to switch to 5.56. You all were right. The .308 was kicking my butt the other day so I’m just putting an SPR barrel on one of my 5.56 guns and taking the scope off my .308. Gonna reload and mimic some mk262 see how it goes.

 

[rpoL98]

I already decided to switch to 5.56. You all were right. The .308 was kicking my butt the other day so I’m just putting an SPR barrel on one of my 5.56 guns and taking the scope off my .308. Gonna reload and mimic some mk262 see how it goes.

if your 308 is pounding your shoulder, I'm guessing you have a flash hider, not a muzzle brake? if so, and you're shooting outdoors, a muzzle brake goes a long way in taming the recoil.

and an adjustable gas block, if you're over-gassed.

 

[psmith23]

Good call. It'll be easier and cheaper to start. A good barrel and trigger will take you a long way.

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

Yea it’s got an adjustable gas block and a FH but I’d rather spend the money on going 5.56. I’m just going to put my thermal in the ar10 for now

 

[Longrangeprecision762]

Sniper's Hide Training Lesson, Semi vs Bolt Action Trigger Control
YouTube · SHLowlight
Jan 4, 2018

 

[Longrangeprecision762]

Sniper's Hide Semi Automatic Lesson Teaser
YouTube · SHLowlight
Nov 30, 2013

 

[padom]

I would start with quality ammo if you really want to shoot that thing past 500/600yd with any consistency. I have a lot of years behind large frame gasser and shooting milspec 147gr/150gr is not the ammo for long distance shooting....especially someone that is new at shooting large frame gasser, especially at distance..

Get some Hornady 168, FGMM 168 or 175 or some IMI 175 match and start there. You will get much more out of your practice sessions.

 

[Pappasniper]

The 556 approach is a solid approach. And a 223/556 bolt gun is great practice. I love my 223 Rem 700 5R in 223. Can shoot out to 750-1000 all day long with good clone Mk262 77 grain ammo.

Good luck.

PB

 

[cafemike]

The LaRue is a very good trigger and a kissing cousin to the Geissele SSA-E. Would suggest a brake/compensator (VG6 or Warcomp) and a very good scope/ring mount set ( I like ADM mounts and Warne Maxima QD rings). If you want to do a barrel upgrade - Wilson Combat has AWESOME barrels for the 308.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

I was surprised that no one mentioned the, IMO, requirement of using decent match ammo until @padom spoke up. I have no experience with large-frame ARs, but I started this precision rifle silliness with a DMR-variant AR-15. With 69-or 77-grain SMKs, it would hold an inch at 100 yards and and did pretty well out to 500 meters, which is the farthest I shot it.

But with 55gr FMJ-BT milspec ammo... pfft. Three to four inch 100-yard groups. Anything further was useless in terms of "precision."

Ammo matters.

 

[ArchibaldShoebuckle275]

I’m actually in the process of acquiring all of my reloading tools and am going up be using a mimic mk262 load for my first reloaded. ammunition. And am putting an 18” BCM SPR barrel on an upper, etc. So yea I’m finally figuring some things out. I have a lot of stupid preconceived notions i picked up in the army that this website has helped me shed rather quickly

I might circle back around to the AR10 one day but I’ll start small.