Gunsmithing Affordable thread protectors

Mordamer

Mordamer

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    • May 11, 2010
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    Hammon, OK
    #1
    When I thread muzzles for customers I would like to return the gun with a thread protector on the muzzle. Does anyone have a line on some affordable thread protectors for 1/2-28 and 5/8-24?

    Best I can find is $8 each for decent quallity thread protectors. I would prefer to not make these myself.

    I would prefer 0.600" length with OD in the .7-.8 inch range.

    Thanks.
     
    #2
    Question is.... Can you make them for less than 8 bucks? That would be tough to pull off unless you made huge runs on expensive machinery. Have you thought about making it an option and charging for it??
     
    #4
    #5
    GH41 said:
    Question is.... Can you make them for less than 8 bucks? That would be tough to pull off unless you made huge runs on expensive machinery. Have you thought about making it an option and charging for it??
    Click to expand...

    No way I can justify making them for myself for $8.

    If I could find something for $4-$5 I would just eat the cost. It feels chincy to give someone back a gun with a pipe cap on the end or just bare threads.
     
    #7
    Thanks.[/QUOTE]
    Waorani said:
    A little bulky but these are about the cheapest I've found. Bought several to make barrel hangers and seller says he can do custom orders. Shipping is a bit high but drops fast for quantities.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRCRAFT-G...490455?hash=item4d703c6e97:g:-50AAOSwYaFWhGJk

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRCRAFT-GRADE-ALUMINUM-ALLOY-RIFLE-BARREL-THREAD-PROTECTOR-1-2-28-5-8-24-etc/332595490452?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=44039&meid=3705af258ed14178824658274055da80&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=332595490455&itm=332595490452&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
    Click to expand...

    That one with the closed end is an accident waiting to happen!!
     
    #11
    GH41 said:
    That one with the closed end is an accident waiting to happen!!
    Click to expand...

    I don't think anyone would be stupid enough to try to shoot with it on but, then again, who knows these days. Point is that it's aluminum, already threaded, and cheap like OP was asking for. With just a quick bit of work you could also eliminate the idiot potential. Most threaded barrels I've received ship in that plastic, expandable mesh and some come with vinyl push on caps for the thread. Both are fine but an actual thread protector would be a nice touch. For a few $ more there are a lot of other sellers on ebay with nicer thread protectors.
     
    Last edited:
    #16
    are you intending these to be used as thread protectors for the rifles in use?......or do you just want something to protect the threads in shipping?

    if you just want to protect the threads in shipping, just cut a small section of rubber tube and slide that over the threads.


    if you want something usable on a finsihed rifle......hire yourself an intern from a local college/ vo-tech at $12/hr.....get them set up and they should be able to crank out more than a dozen an hour.

    or if you dont have an extra lathe for them to use.......get in touch with the manufacuring center of your local college/ vo-tech.......a lot of times the manf. center will hire workstudies, and its not uncommon for people to get in touch with the manf center to have small runs of parts made by the work studies........prices are usually a lot cheaper than a manufacturing house or to have them made in house.
     
    Last edited:
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    #17
    mcameron said:
    are you intending these to be used as thread protectors for the rifles in use?......or do you just want something to protect the threads in shipping?

    if you just want to protect the threads in shipping, just cut a small section of rubber tube and slide that over the threads.


    if you want something usable on a finsihed rifle......hire yourself an intern from a local college/ vo-tech at $12/hr.....get them set up and they should be able to crank out more than a dozen an hour.

    or if you dont have an extra lathe for them to use.......get in touch with the manufacuring center of your local college/ vo-tech.......a lot of times the manf. center will hire workstudies, and its not uncommon for people to get in touch with the manf center to have small runs of parts made by the work studies........prices are usually a lot cheaper than a manufacturing house or to have them made in house.
    Click to expand...
    I am intending to have something that can be used to protect threads while the gun is being used. I have a bunch of plastic thread protectors that are pipe cap protectors that I bought in 2 sizes and they fit great. I am considering some of the options listed above. I might even do the flash hider idea. I'll probably just make it and option and charge $10 extra for it.

    Thanks everyone.
     
    #18
    Mordamer said:
    I am intending to have something that can be used to protect threads while the gun is being used. I have a bunch of plastic thread protectors that are pipe cap protectors that I bought in 2 sizes and they fit great. I am considering some of the options listed above. I might even do the flash hider idea. I'll probably just make it and option and charge $10 extra for it.

    Thanks everyone.
    Click to expand...
    If you were to get with the company, you could probably get a bulk discount.
    1/2x28 for 6 bucks each (pack of 2):
    https://www.amazon.com/Thread-Prote...pID=51ZzWP7zgvL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

    Different company 5/8x24:

    https://www.amazon.com/LR308-308-Th...D=41O-ftnu%2BSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
     
    #19
    Mordamer said:
    aluminum
    Click to expand...

    Aluminum is towards the anodic end of the Galvanic Table.

    Whereas Stainless Steel is towards the cathodic end of the Galvanic Table.

    I wouldn't go forcing those two metals into contact with one another if I cared about my craftsmanship & my reputation & my customers.

    Millions of circa 1970s homeowners in the United States, who got the cheapskate aluminum wiring in their tract housing, can testify to the ability of aluminum to turn into mush and corrode everything in its path.
     
    #20
    ScipioAfricanus said:
    Aluminum is towards the anodic end of the Galvanic Table.

    Whereas Stainless Steel is towards the cathodic end of the Galvanic Table.

    I wouldn't go forcing those two metals into contact with one another if I cared about my craftsmanship & my reputation & my customers.

    Millions of circa 1970s homeowners in the United States, who got the cheapskate aluminum wiring in their tract housing, can testify to the ability of aluminum to turn into mush and corrode everything in its path.
    Click to expand...
    So like every AR-15 ever manufactured is about to turn into mush because galvanic corrosion between all the aluminum and steel parts is a huge problem?

    All the Mossberg 500 shotguns are having huge problems as well I suppose?

    Get real.

    Stop replying to 3 year old threads trying to sound smart.
     
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    #21
    :LOL:

    I just pulled a parkerized mag tube from my Mossberg 590 this weekend. <Extreme narrator voice: The threads had not "turned to mush.">

    Shockingly enough, firearms are not easily comparable to shoddy 1970s building practices. But certainly, someone will make the claim that polymer pistols are doomed to fail because he had problems with the Poly B water pipes in his single-wide.
     
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    #22
    All Ruger 10/22's are going to turn to mush. All aluminum framed pistols with stainless slides. All aluminum scope rails strapped to Rem 700's turning to mush as we speak. All aluminum chassis bolted to any stainless custom action.

    Wow. I just lost respect for the entire firearms industry because none of them care for their "craftsmanship".
     
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    #23
    Hell I was going to offer to build those caps for him in my shop. Thank goodness the newb kept me from disaster! Now what about those c-130 parts I just made out of steel that will be touching aluminum, and those stainless steel keenserts we put in a 7075 panel a few days back? Better get some peeps on the phone and tell them their design that’s been out there for decades is about to go south any minute now.
     
    #25
    ScipioAfricanus said:
    All I can guarantee you is that the Galvanic Table will always have the last word in these matters.

    Ignore it at your peril.
    Click to expand...
    Nobody is ignoring it. What they are telling you is that it is not relevant within the confines of the uses contained in this thread. If you are building a ship for the navy, then yes, it is germane. And I still purchase aluminum wiring for my equipment to this day.

    knowledge doesn’t always guide to correct conclusions.
     
    #26
    Funny I was thinking about this a couple months ago, there must be a cheaper way to make thread protectors as it cuts into my limited time to run machines . I found a local guy that put a CNC in the barn and now is taking side work for him and his boy .
    He's not ready just yet but he quoted ten bucks each per size . They will be faced, threaded and have the relief cut I will have to turn the OD and shorten the front slightly .
    It will be this option for 20 bucks or wrapped in electrical tape for protection .
     
    Last edited:
    #27
    Easy_E said:
    Funny I was thinking about this a couple months ago, there must be a cheaper way to make thread protectors as it cuts into my limited time to run machines . I found a local guy that put a CNC in the barn and now is taking side work for him and his boy .
    He's not ready just yet but he quoted ten bucks each for each size . They will be faced, threaded and have the relief cut I will have to turn the OD and shorten the front slightly .
    It will be this option for 20 bucks or wrapped in electrical tape for protection .
    Click to expand...
    That’s definitely better than tape.
     
    #28
    Galvanic corrosion requires multiple factors in order to occur. Not saying it can't happen to firearms, it certianly has in some cases, but it's not that great of a threat in normal conditions.
    "What these definitions all have in common is that galvanic corrosion involves the electrical interaction of at least two different metals or nonmetallic conductors in an environment that accelerates the corrosion of at least one of them. The common factors are dissimilar metals, electrical contact, and a conductive electrolyte in contact with them. If any of these factors is absent, galvanic corrosion cannot occur."-www.sciencedirect.com
    Keep your guns dry, and not electrified, and you'll be fine.
     
    #29
    ScipioAfricanus said:
    All I can guarantee you is that the Galvanic Table will always have the last word in these matters.

    Ignore it at your peril.
    Click to expand...

    Please tell us how you've addressed this issue elsewhere in your life on equipment far more critical than a muzzle thread protector - your automobiles, farm equipment, motorcycles, appliances, bicycles....

    I'm gonna replace all the grip screws on my ARs with aluminum hardware. Should dramatically improve the reliability.
     
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