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Group Buys Aftermarket AI "Obsession" Chassis - Group Buy
- Thread starter samb300
- Start date
The prototype had the accessories hardcoat anodized. The production kit will have the chassis, NV bridge, and NV pic rail all cerakoted to match. The internal steel weights will be black nitrided.
congrats on the 3rd place man. That’s awesome.
And I’m so excited to hear the update on the chassis. I actually pulled this page up last night in hopes for a update I had missed. Lol.
And I’m so excited to hear the update on the chassis. I actually pulled this page up last night in hopes for a update I had missed. Lol.
is it wrong to say I think it looks like its made of Lego's
and that I wonder if they are going to make one that looks like its made of Lincoln Logs next ? lol
but I am pretty sure anything ai is going to be made extremely nice
and that I wonder if they are going to make one that looks like its made of Lincoln Logs next ? lol
but I am pretty sure anything ai is going to be made extremely nice
Well, considering that Sam invested a shitload of his own time & money into designing a product that is not only one of a kind but also extremely purpose-built... Yeah I'd say it's wrong. Sam's chassis has a flat bottom & sides, that's the only resemblance I see... Both are features that the modern competitor wants.
"Oh, and did I mention...the chassis kits are DONE BEING MACHINED and on their way to get Cerakoted!!!"
Well I guess I will let myself get excited now, excellent!!
Well I guess I will let myself get excited now, excellent!!
Guys, all parts are completed at the machine shop and en route to Redbeard Gunworks for Cerakote, or to me so I can send the weights to Nitriding. Delivery is scheduled for tomorrow!
Depending on the timing for Cerakote and Nitride, we're looking at just a couple more weeks for these to be complete. If for some reason you want a color change on your chassis from what your original order was, please let me know ASAP.
Once we're a little bit closer I'll start sending out final invoices to get everything squared away for final shipment to you guys. I'll be sending them all through QuickBooks to the email address you've provided. If you want to pay via check or money order shoot me a PM now so we can get ahead of it now.
As always, thanks for your interest in this project and your patience!
Sam
Depending on the timing for Cerakote and Nitride, we're looking at just a couple more weeks for these to be complete. If for some reason you want a color change on your chassis from what your original order was, please let me know ASAP.
Once we're a little bit closer I'll start sending out final invoices to get everything squared away for final shipment to you guys. I'll be sending them all through QuickBooks to the email address you've provided. If you want to pay via check or money order shoot me a PM now so we can get ahead of it now.
As always, thanks for your interest in this project and your patience!
Sam
I knew I should've made you sign an NDA when I told you about my upcoming Gen2 Obsession chassis!
looks so good it’s almost a shame to paint them.
Weights and NV bridge finally in hand! Somehow the NV pic rail is still on a UPS truck but it’ll be delivered soon.
That 2# one-piece internal weight is BEAST!
That 2# one-piece internal weight is BEAST!
Although I’ll probably never shoot night vision, the 20MOA picatinny rail is pretty awesome.
Here’s the weight of the chassis and NV bridge if anyone is interested. 2 lb 6oz (38oz)
Here’s the weight of the chassis and NV bridge if anyone is interested. 2 lb 6oz (38oz)
The pictures of the chassis are beautiful. Looks like you did about forty of them. Going to be forty happy guys soon!
- AT chassis (No buttstock, no plastic skins) = 28 oz
- The AT skins (total) are approximately 6-8 oz. - The AT NV unit is about 7ish oz. as well
- AX chassis w/RRS auxiliary plate and top picatinny forend rail = 40.6 oz
So the Obsession chassis is a couple ounces lighter than the AT or AX, while at the same time providing an improved forend and the ability to add 2# of internal weight if you’d rather go heavy.
It’ll function just bolted or bedded in but it really needs to be bonded. Any side impacts on the barrel on a barricade or something and you’ll see a big POI shift. I’ve had my AT de-bonded before and tested this first hand.
Edit: there’s also little brass washers/spacers for each action screw. Regardless of how you reinstall the action, have to be in or the mag height won’t be right
Edit: there’s also little brass washers/spacers for each action screw. Regardless of how you reinstall the action, have to be in or the mag height won’t be right
Here’s what I’ll say.
1) If you want to try a release agent I don’t see any issues with it assuming the agent plays nice with the Devcon 2-part aluminum putty. Other than spinning up and head spacing new barrels with the action removed, I don’t see a huge benefit to doing it this way, but there’s likely little risk to trying it.
2) The chassis was designed to function exactly as an AW, AT, or AX, which are bonded from the factory. The critical dimensions where the action screws line up and the action interfaces with are as close to identical as I could measure and machine them. What this means is when you de-bond your action you’ll notice some epoxy between the recoil lug surfaces, so that recoil lug pocket is designed for a small amount of epoxy to fill the void. If no epoxy is used, you very well may be able to torque the action down with full recoil lug contact like a traditional action and chassis, but I can’t guarantee it. No matter what you will need to re-use the 4 brass washers that separate the action and chassis; without them the magazine will want to sit 0.031” too high. If the MPA-AT does not use the washers then it was designed with extra material to ensure proper mag height (I hope haha).
If anyone wants to try to shoot the action in the chassis without it being bonded you’re more than welcome to do it, but if there are any accuracy or consistency issues I would recommend bonding them together as intended. I also recommend bonding the buttstock to the chassis no matter what; there is enough clearance side-to-side that you will get “fishtail” wiggle in the buttstock. Plus those flat head screws are prone to rounding the heads so if you try to over-torque them you could run into issues.
1) If you want to try a release agent I don’t see any issues with it assuming the agent plays nice with the Devcon 2-part aluminum putty. Other than spinning up and head spacing new barrels with the action removed, I don’t see a huge benefit to doing it this way, but there’s likely little risk to trying it.
2) The chassis was designed to function exactly as an AW, AT, or AX, which are bonded from the factory. The critical dimensions where the action screws line up and the action interfaces with are as close to identical as I could measure and machine them. What this means is when you de-bond your action you’ll notice some epoxy between the recoil lug surfaces, so that recoil lug pocket is designed for a small amount of epoxy to fill the void. If no epoxy is used, you very well may be able to torque the action down with full recoil lug contact like a traditional action and chassis, but I can’t guarantee it. No matter what you will need to re-use the 4 brass washers that separate the action and chassis; without them the magazine will want to sit 0.031” too high. If the MPA-AT does not use the washers then it was designed with extra material to ensure proper mag height (I hope haha).
If anyone wants to try to shoot the action in the chassis without it being bonded you’re more than welcome to do it, but if there are any accuracy or consistency issues I would recommend bonding them together as intended. I also recommend bonding the buttstock to the chassis no matter what; there is enough clearance side-to-side that you will get “fishtail” wiggle in the buttstock. Plus those flat head screws are prone to rounding the heads so if you try to over-torque them you could run into issues.
You’ll also notice in the first picture the excess epoxy on the one of the QuickLoc barrel “lugs”. Seeing pictures like those is what made me theorize it’s the cause of some rifles needing more than 49 in-lb of torque to keep the barrel tightened and consistent.
I can’t wait to see pictures of de-bonded rifles once people start doing them, and seeing if people’s QuickLoc torque correlates to excess epoxy.
I can’t wait to see pictures of de-bonded rifles once people start doing them, and seeing if people’s QuickLoc torque correlates to excess epoxy.
So one data point for you. When I had mine out it did not have epoxy in the ears. I’ve had mine come loose so I’ve torqued mine to 60 for the last few years
Debonded my AX stock in prep for this and went by the instructions. All went smoothly though I really should have heated the screws a bit first as one stripped trying to remove it. The remedy was pounding a t20 torx bit into the hex head and using that for purchase. Bit seems ok but I've ruined others doing this so dont use a Wiha bit or anything.
Using a piece of wood in the rear if the AX worked fine. I actually just stuck mine through and let it kind of wedge itself in there without it braced against anything else then just hammered parallel with the stock. It came right off in 3 whacks.
Using a piece of wood in the rear if the AX worked fine. I actually just stuck mine through and let it kind of wedge itself in there without it braced against anything else then just hammered parallel with the stock. It came right off in 3 whacks.
Attachments
@lvmike are you de-bonding a factory AX rifle, or just an AX buttstock on an AT?
FYI if anyone is de-bonding a factory AX like I did, you will need a new magazine catch and magazine catch spring from Mile High. The AT and AX catch and spring are not interchangeable.
- AT mag catch = P/N 3234
- AT catch spring = P/N 0568
The Dowel pin (P/N 0911) is the same between the AT and AX, and can be transferred over to the new chassis.
FYI if anyone is de-bonding a factory AX like I did, you will need a new magazine catch and magazine catch spring from Mile High. The AT and AX catch and spring are not interchangeable.
- AT mag catch = P/N 3234
- AT catch spring = P/N 0568
The Dowel pin (P/N 0911) is the same between the AT and AX, and can be transferred over to the new chassis.
And yes, it is highly advised to heat the screws in the buttstock assembly before trying to remove them. Those little bastards are typically gummed up with the excess epoxy in the joint during assembly, and are easy to strip.
I got the screws back yesterday from getting custom plated. Rather than having the typical black oxide steel screws that surface rust when exposed to water and humidity, I decided to have them Black Zinc plated for extra corrosion resistance. They will retain the strength of alloy steel compared to weaker SS, while looking good because they're black haha. And there won't be any risk of galvanic corrosion being fastened into the aluminum chassis like you'd have with SS fasteners.
Still waiting on the weights to be completed at black nitride, and the chassis to be done getting Cerakoted at Red Beard. But things are moving along and getting closer to completion.
Keep an eye out for final invoices soon, I'll be sending them out over the next week. Payment will be due before I ship.
Thanks guys!
Sam
Still waiting on the weights to be completed at black nitride, and the chassis to be done getting Cerakoted at Red Beard. But things are moving along and getting closer to completion.
Keep an eye out for final invoices soon, I'll be sending them out over the next week. Payment will be due before I ship.
Thanks guys!
Sam
Literally as I was typing my invoice came through! Paid up and ready to go!
Man, I hope so too. I'm itching to get these things shipped out to you guys. Literally everything is in hand and complete except the Cerakoted chassis. I'll touch base with Red Beard again tomorrow and see where they're at; last I talked to them they were getting ready to run the batch of Sage Green because that had the most quantities. I just got the nitrided weights back today.
Invoices should be sent out to everyone now. Don't feel the need to rush on the payment, it'll likely be a little bit longer before I have them in hand and ready to ship as they're still at Cerakote. Feel free to pay with Quick Books via the invoice, or mail a check if that's what you prefer (or did for the deposit).
Can't believe i forgot to post these in this thread. From the WAR match last month.
I believe the Sage Green and Black are the first ones to be Cerakoted. Next will be the Dark Earth, Pale Brown, and Classic Green, depending on the queue at Red Beard and whether or not they have the color-match to their liking yet.
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