Man, I need a cheat sheet to follow the damn AI chassis models and what their differences are
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AI AT fixed to AX folder. Conversion Instructions and pictures
- Thread starter mattwaage1
- Start date
Man, I need a cheat sheet to follow the damn AI chassis models and what their differences are
Tree, one last question, having the Sami B Thumbrest on your AT, did that prevent installation of the folding stock locking socket on the right side?
Thanks again!
Yes I could not install the locking socket. Not an issue for me. The stock is extremely tight and I don't really need it. I can not think of a scenario where not having it will be an issue.
Guys, I've got a low cheek piece coming. Soon. A final test batch is being printed right now to confirm everything, and when it's available you'll be able to get it direct through a website from the company I'm partnering with. Bipod mounts, thumb rests, and some other cool stuff will follow. We're still getting everything finalized and I will share that information as soon as it's all ready.
Please ignore the quality of the print in these pictures, this was a very rough test print on my home printer. The production ones are going to be made on a pro-level HP printer. This cheek piece will be a direct swap, all you'll need to do is unscrew the one bolt to remove the factory cheek piece, then replace it with the new one and a new (shorter) screw. Takes about 30 seconds.
Factory AX Cheek Piece
Low Cheek Piece (short action) - 0.350" lower than factory
Low Cheek Piece (short action) - 0.350" lower than factory
Please ignore the quality of the print in these pictures, this was a very rough test print on my home printer. The production ones are going to be made on a pro-level HP printer. This cheek piece will be a direct swap, all you'll need to do is unscrew the one bolt to remove the factory cheek piece, then replace it with the new one and a new (shorter) screw. Takes about 30 seconds.
Factory AX Cheek Piece
Low Cheek Piece (short action) - 0.350" lower than factory
Low Cheek Piece (short action) - 0.350" lower than factory
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I'm no sure when exactly but AI swapped over from welding that part together to the large roll pin OP has. I had an old AI AE mkI from 93 I think.. it was welded. My AW is an 08 and is a roll pin. Wether or not it's the same part we would need to measure though.
What about the buttstock retaining pin. On the AX, the pin is on the buttstock where it is on the chassis portion on the AT. They are also located differently.
I have a LH AT so the buttstock folds to the right (not over the bolt) which, by the look of the photos, is what these do correct?
I have a LH AT so the buttstock folds to the right (not over the bolt) which, by the look of the photos, is what these do correct?
I confirmed with EuroOptic that there will be no LH-specific buttstock kit (even though they clearly make a LH version for the LH AX).
If you bought the RH AX buttstock and wanted to have it fold over the bolt on your LH AT, you would need to de-bond the hinge from the buttstock, flip it 180°, and re-bond it to the buttstock. Then bond the hinge assembly to the chassis per normal. When you do that install you would simply install the folding stock capture on the bolt side, and flip the orientation of the male "pin" that goes into the stock capture.
That assumes that you want to match the operation of a folding AX...correct? My LH AT folds to the non-bolt side and it sounds like the RH AX buttstock will do the same. If that is the case, what would I do to regain a retaining pin? It seems to me that I would need a different receptacle on the chassis as it is now a protruding pin
@Nik H the AX buttstock kit comes with the plastic "female" stock capture piece. If you wanted your LH AT to fold to the non-bolt side, you'd simple bond the buttstock to the chassis as-is, and install the stock capture piece on the non-bolt side. The stock capture piece will replace the male stud that is currently in place on the AT. Then when the stock folds it will lock into place.
Did anyone who converted from AT folder to AX buttstock had the target adj. buttplate on their AT? Do you think it was worth the price of the AX conversion? I'm still on the fence about getting the AX buttstock. Some days I wake up ready to order it and some days I feel like I'm not going to get much out of it besides toolless pad adjustments for $800 since I already have the thumbscrews and the target buttplate on the AT.
I am with you...I have both of the options you mention and there are days I still want it but most days, I say nah. Too much bother for little gained. I also go back and forth on the look. The AT looks more natural with the AT butt but I sway on that as well.
I'm going to be converting my fixed stock AT to the AT folder, what kind of devcon so I need? Would jb weld work?
Devcon 52345 plastic steel is what the AX conversion comes with. It’s about $8 on Amazon.
Well the wife's hair dryer doesn't have enough ass to break the epoxy loose. I'll grab a torch tomorrow.
That little propane torch did have a diffuser tip too but, as Alabama said, I'm in a hurry to get things done.
My AT was originally a folder. If I had to do it over I would pick up a fixed stock AT and convert it to the AX stock.
If anyone is wanting a deal on the AX buttstock, eBay has a 15% off coupon if you order through their app today, max $100 savings, (Code-PSAVETODAY)that works for the AX buttstock, which will knock It down to $723. If I hadn’t just grabbed an AT folder for my fixed AT, I’d probably jump on it.
I wonder how necessary the devcon is? The AT folder was a pretty tight fit (had to tap it on with a deadblow) and it has 2 screws securing it.
I've de-bonded both an AT and AX buttstock, and found that the fit is really tight until you clean all the old epoxy off. Once the exterior of the tang is clean, and the inside of the buttstock is clean, there is definitely some "wiggle" room in the installation. Think fish tail - it can wiggle side to side, but not up and down once the two screws are installed. There's a few thou of clearance per side on the fit.
I have a question on the "nipple" on AT folder that catches the original folding stock. How did you guys remove it after conversion?
Does ayone has a spare to sell?
Does ayone has a spare to sell?
You have to pull the trigger out. With the trigger removed there’s a hole to get a hex wrench into the screw that holds that nipple in place. Use a pin in the cross hole to keep it from rotating while loosening the screw.
Thanks. So, the hole in the chassis itself was not threaded, and the nipple is held by a separate nut sitting between thew chassis wall and the trigger?
Hey,
For you guys who have covered a folding AT with an AX stock, if you have no use of the "nipple" on the AT chassis that was used to catch the original folded AT stock, I would like to by it from you for my own project. Appreciated!
Jeff
For you guys who have covered a folding AT with an AX stock, if you have no use of the "nipple" on the AT chassis that was used to catch the original folded AT stock, I would like to by it from you for my own project. Appreciated!
Jeff
Give Mile High a call, you should be able to buy one with the correct screw to go along with it. Shouldn't be too expensive.
How do you guys clean out the old epoxy sruck on the chassis stud? Or just leave it alone and overlay with new epoxy?
Heat it up with a heat gun or small propane torch, then scrape off with an Xacto knife. It will get in the small features. You’ll have to heat up, scrape, and repeat. Once the epoxy is cooled down even a little it gets brittle.
Then clean with isopropyl alcohol. If you don’t get all the old epoxy off you’ll notice it’s really hard to even get the new buttstock on.
Queztion for you guys who have done the conversion: for step (3), was it hard for you to remove the two screws using a 3mm Allen wrench? Mine was so tight and impossible to loosened them. Did you heat treat it to soften the epoxy?
Just got word that there’s a bucket full of low AX cheekpieces on the way. Just waiting for one more piece of hardware.
Would anyone that has done the buttstock conversion be willing to send me some picture(s) of the instruction manual on re-bonding the new buttstock? I’m putting my de-bonded action and buttstock back together while I wait for my chassis to be machined, and I want to make sure I don’t miss anything. Thanks!
