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American Rifle Company New Archimedes Action, New Xylo Chassis, and major Mausingfield revision
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Can anyone get a measurement with the large grips? Looking for distance of trigger shoe to rear-most part of the grip, please. Bonus points if you have a T7T.
Here's some pic's of my setup.
The grips shown are the large...I'm playing with them deciding if I want to add to them or not with some Bondo. I wanted to coat them in the mean time and I used Obenauff's heavy duty leather preservative (basically bees wax and tree resin). I did two coats working the wax in with my fingers and letting it dry before wiping it off. I expect that when it gets hot (or I'm in the middle of a 20 min slow fire string) that it will get tacky. But I only expect that to happen once or twice. You can also see I have my T7T pushed all the way forward. I wanted to try having to reach for the trigger a little bit, and with the generous first stage on the T7T trigger it's not noticeable at all. My skinny finger has no issue getting where it needs to be even during rapid fire.
You can also see the stock riser that I 3D printed. It is about 13 inches long ....too long for my printer, so I printed it in sections and created dovetails in SolidWorks. My first guess and the required gap was good. The parts slid together with a little force, and wouldn't come apart without similar force. Right now it's bolted to the forend of the XYLO, but I'll probably make another one with t-nuts for the Anschutz rail. Speaking of rails, I had an old rail laying around and it is in the bottom of the stock riser. Unfortunately it is a Freeland rail so my Anschutz rail accessories won't fit...new Anschutz rail already inbound. The riser helps out with scope height in standing and sitting (for NRA Highpower). I haven't fired it yet in prone. It may not help me in prone much, so I may need/want the ability to remove it easily. I was trying to create a metal chassis version of a MasterClass HighPower stock.....and I think I succeeded. For a reference, the magazine is an ARC ten rounder.
Enjoy,
Ross
The grips shown are the large...I'm playing with them deciding if I want to add to them or not with some Bondo. I wanted to coat them in the mean time and I used Obenauff's heavy duty leather preservative (basically bees wax and tree resin). I did two coats working the wax in with my fingers and letting it dry before wiping it off. I expect that when it gets hot (or I'm in the middle of a 20 min slow fire string) that it will get tacky. But I only expect that to happen once or twice. You can also see I have my T7T pushed all the way forward. I wanted to try having to reach for the trigger a little bit, and with the generous first stage on the T7T trigger it's not noticeable at all. My skinny finger has no issue getting where it needs to be even during rapid fire.
You can also see the stock riser that I 3D printed. It is about 13 inches long ....too long for my printer, so I printed it in sections and created dovetails in SolidWorks. My first guess and the required gap was good. The parts slid together with a little force, and wouldn't come apart without similar force. Right now it's bolted to the forend of the XYLO, but I'll probably make another one with t-nuts for the Anschutz rail. Speaking of rails, I had an old rail laying around and it is in the bottom of the stock riser. Unfortunately it is a Freeland rail so my Anschutz rail accessories won't fit...new Anschutz rail already inbound. The riser helps out with scope height in standing and sitting (for NRA Highpower). I haven't fired it yet in prone. It may not help me in prone much, so I may need/want the ability to remove it easily. I was trying to create a metal chassis version of a MasterClass HighPower stock.....and I think I succeeded. For a reference, the magazine is an ARC ten rounder.
Enjoy,
Ross
Somebody has probably already said it but I have sanded mine down and oiled natural and get a lot o attention at the range. I also have some exotic woods , I’d like to be able to change them up just like I do my barrels.
I bought a medium set and it was a perfect fit for my hand...until I sanded out the tooling marks and now it feels too small. I have large grips on my bench that I also sanded out and are waiting on a second coat of Linseed oil. Linseed oil makes the grips fairly dark. I over did the oil on the first set of medium grips and they're very dark. The second set of large grips are a little lighter.
I'm running the standard one with mine and it's timed almost perfectly. It's very smooth. I can't remember the number right now, but I can check tomorrow if you need the number.
When I ordered my Archimedes a few weeks ago, I asked if I should send my trigger (T7T) in so they could get the right cocking piece and they told me that I could, but the standard should work just fine....and it works flawlessly.
sent in my T7t, my geissele super700 and my BnA tacpsort on my arch -- the t7t and bna used the default cocking piece, the super 700 needed a different one.
Anyone know of or working on an integrated mirage sheild that could mount solidly enough over the barrel to accept some down pressure from off side hand during positional shooting? Figured it could be made of a stiff kydex possibly, or 3D printed. Or am I the only one mulling this over? I know they have the Night Vision mount, but its a bit big/heavy and short to be a good mirage shield.
Is there a list of barrel makers that will supply prefit barrels for the Archimedes? The archimedes with a shouldered barrel Needs a 1.250 shank and would use a Barloc with the ‘washer’ and the “shoulder 1-1/16” options, right?
Call up LRI and I'm sure they'll take care of you.
I thought about an integrated mirage shield but I just haven't gotten to it yet...(I'm installing new french drains around the house...and reminding myself why I went to college). For me the mdt version would be about the right size to take care of most situations. For hot days 90deg plus, then I'd still use my elastic strap mirage band.
The main drawback with a solid shield for me is that it can increase your silhouette. This leads to more movement from a breeze in unsupported standing. A few years ago when I replaced my Sightron 6-24x50 with a March 2.5-25x42 I couldn't believe how much less movement I had in standing. I've already increased my silhouette significantly with the riser that I added.
I feel your pain. Fustrating. But take heart, I'm sure they will take care of you. Just give them a call and they will make it right. At least they have always gone out of their way to take care of me and expect the same for others.
As far as I'm aware the Archimedes would use the same pre-fit barrels as the Nucleus and Mausingfield.
I got out yesterday with my ARC Archimedes/Xylo and did a 50 round NRA Highpower practice. With this new stock I've had to change my positions compared to shooting my Eliseo chassis. Slowfire prone this stock just doesn't move. I'm not working nearly as hard to hold it steady as I do with other guns. I am able to end the string faster with less fatigue than previously. I was focusing on building/rebuilding my positions, so I was only shooting a 100yd reduced course, but I cleaned several targets for one of my best practice scores ever.
I'm looking forward to this season getting started....just waiting on a new barrel from Keystone Accuracy, should be here next week.
I'm looking forward to this season getting started....just waiting on a new barrel from Keystone Accuracy, should be here next week.
is that out of the side or the top/bottom? The hex head screw is still in the side. There are countersunk holes at the top an bottom, but they don’t look to be threaded.
Regardless, did t find anything so I hope it’s all still there! Thanks for posting that pick and trying to help on short notice.
Just sent you a PM to call for explanation on reassembly.
See pics below. The red set screw was not tightened which allowed the orange pins to come together and free the green rods. Re-assemle the butt stock and ensure that the green rods are oriented correctly before tightening the red set screw. Tightening the red set screw will drive the orange pins apart and into the notches of the green rods.
Does this make sense?
Ted
I think it can be loosened to pull the stock rearward for and additional inch of LOP. Then, you are right, blue loctite makes sense.
You guys don't miss a thing. That's just an idea I was kicking around. I like the current bag rider but maybe I'll make one as shown in the picture and try it. Do you think people will like it more than the current design?
Steel bag riders will be out soon. I don't think too many people have placed an order for those so we'll just make a batch that will last for a while.
Oh, and blue Loctite is almost always a good idea, but not on our scope rings. I actually grease those screws.
Ted
Same thing happened to me the first time I adjusted all the way out. Looked at it for a minute, assumed that was the set screw, tightened it and drove on.
What would be the point of having a pic rail that close to the adjustment rods? Not much room between them. Would the bag rider be flipable so the pic could be on top or bottom?
Need to watch my pennies, really would like to have one of these.
Need to watch my pennies, really would like to have one of these.
Obviously you could flip it around if someone wanted to put on a monopod or something
Yep i like the pic rail allows monopod and other options, looks like its a combo pic + arca. definitely would like it.
Anyone have experience with a mausingfield M5 in 223? I have a spare m5 lying around and noticed that ARC is selling the 223 bolt face for it but with a caveat saying it won't necessarily feed well, per their website. Looking for some feedback before committing to this. Mahalo!
I assume this is a short action? You’ll want something like the MDT 223 AICS mags, and you should plan on adjusting feed lips.
Long action there’s no hope of it ever feeding right.
I have a M5 with a 223 barrel on it that I have never had a problem with. I use the Accurate mags and it feeds little short prairie dog bullets up to the 75gr amax, which I'm quickly running out of. I would imagine it would feed anything else just as well. I think the note on the website may be outdated. I remember when I bought my first M5 about 2013/4 time frame asking Ted about a 223 bolt head and he wasn't confident in how well they would work , so he wasn't planning on making one then. But the one I have, I've been running for a couple of years and I literally can't remember a single feed or extraction issue. Hit me up if you have any more questions or want to see pics or something.
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