Just annealed my Win 308 brass, never annealed anything before. I read all I could on it and watched a bunch of videos. My question is how can I tell if I annealed a piece to long? I did the first couple in the dark and couldn't tell a damn thing. The necks are a shade lighter on some than others. Only one has a light blue line just below the shoulder which I'm going to toss, almost positive that one went too long. After I got the hang of it, I could see the brass get a lighter shade about the 6 second mark. I was using a propane torch and brass in a oversized socket.
Annealing for first time.
- Thread starter jsthntn247
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Re: Annealing for first time.
750 Deg Templaq fluid for the neck
450 Deg Templaq fluid for the body
You only use the fluid when setting up for annealing (I use scrap brass). One you figure out the time needed by the fluid, then start with real cases.
J
750 Deg Templaq fluid for the neck
450 Deg Templaq fluid for the body
You only use the fluid when setting up for annealing (I use scrap brass). One you figure out the time needed by the fluid, then start with real cases.
J
Re: Annealing for first time.
The one with the color just below shoulder, that sound like a good one to me. For my .308 cases I go 8 seconds with same method as you. Tip of blue flame where neck and shoulder meet. That seems to be the average time for this cartridge from all the reading I found on it, depending on brand. Mine is Winchester.
The one with the color just below shoulder, that sound like a good one to me. For my .308 cases I go 8 seconds with same method as you. Tip of blue flame where neck and shoulder meet. That seems to be the average time for this cartridge from all the reading I found on it, depending on brand. Mine is Winchester.
Re: Annealing for first time.
I use a 5/8" deep wall socket, it fits close enough to protect the case body. Also I chock my drill in a vice and hold a auto ignite torch in my hand. Spin it up, hit it with heat, then let it cool a few seconds and grab it out with a welders glove.
If you are using the eyeball method, and you did not get them cherry red, you should be fine. The changes in case color will vary depending on how fast you were spinning them and how close you had the heat. In the end just make sure not to get the necks glowing red, just enough to see the color change to a crimson color, then remove the heat. You can always use the Templaq, but I have just darkened the garage with only a small spot light in the corner. I got 24 loads from 308 RP brass, annealing every 8 loads, with only 1 split case out of 100. Works for me.
I use a 5/8" deep wall socket, it fits close enough to protect the case body. Also I chock my drill in a vice and hold a auto ignite torch in my hand. Spin it up, hit it with heat, then let it cool a few seconds and grab it out with a welders glove.
If you are using the eyeball method, and you did not get them cherry red, you should be fine. The changes in case color will vary depending on how fast you were spinning them and how close you had the heat. In the end just make sure not to get the necks glowing red, just enough to see the color change to a crimson color, then remove the heat. You can always use the Templaq, but I have just darkened the garage with only a small spot light in the corner. I got 24 loads from 308 RP brass, annealing every 8 loads, with only 1 split case out of 100. Works for me.
Re: Annealing for first time.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MtnCreek</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question please. What happens if they're overheated? Is this just a neck tension problem or a safety issue?
Thanks!
</div></div>
From my understanding, if you over heat them, they get to soft, and when you attempt to resize them, you will just crush them...
For the first time in over 3 years of reloading, I annealed some of my 308 brass last night, and I think i only over heated 1 out of 140 I did, I will find out when I resize them... Win Brass, 5x fired
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MtnCreek</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question please. What happens if they're overheated? Is this just a neck tension problem or a safety issue?
Thanks!
</div></div>
From my understanding, if you over heat them, they get to soft, and when you attempt to resize them, you will just crush them...
For the first time in over 3 years of reloading, I annealed some of my 308 brass last night, and I think i only over heated 1 out of 140 I did, I will find out when I resize them... Win Brass, 5x fired
Re: Annealing for first time.
Both. The neck and shoulders could become too soft, which would show up in poor neck tension or damaging the case when you resize. Over-annealing can cause a decrease in accuracy until the neck hardness is restored slightly. The lack of neck tension can also cause the bullet to setback when fed into the rifle, which could be a potential safety concern.
If you anneal way too much or incorrectly, you can soften the area just above the web of the case, which can cause case head separation and, therefore, case failure. I've only heard of this happening when guys stick their brass in the oven thinking they can do all their cases at once.
Edit: I intentionally over-annealed quite a few cases when I was starting out, just as experimentation. Since I've started doing cases that would actually be fired, I haven't over-annealed any. I've probably done about 600 cases now. I use the darkroom method, as judging by color will change depending on the cleanliness of the case, the specific propane being used, and the type of brass used in the case itself. If I clean LC brass with stainless media, then anneal it after about a week, it won't develop the blue tint at all. It'll stay golden red around the neck and won't change colors at all below the shoulder.
Both. The neck and shoulders could become too soft, which would show up in poor neck tension or damaging the case when you resize. Over-annealing can cause a decrease in accuracy until the neck hardness is restored slightly. The lack of neck tension can also cause the bullet to setback when fed into the rifle, which could be a potential safety concern.
If you anneal way too much or incorrectly, you can soften the area just above the web of the case, which can cause case head separation and, therefore, case failure. I've only heard of this happening when guys stick their brass in the oven thinking they can do all their cases at once.
Edit: I intentionally over-annealed quite a few cases when I was starting out, just as experimentation. Since I've started doing cases that would actually be fired, I haven't over-annealed any. I've probably done about 600 cases now. I use the darkroom method, as judging by color will change depending on the cleanliness of the case, the specific propane being used, and the type of brass used in the case itself. If I clean LC brass with stainless media, then anneal it after about a week, it won't develop the blue tint at all. It'll stay golden red around the neck and won't change colors at all below the shoulder.
Re: Annealing for first time.
I think I'm going to be fine. The necks would start to get red and the shoulder junctionl would start to get a lighter color about the 6 second mark. I had the brass in a long socket and there was no heat getting too far below the shoulder junction. If they get too hot around the shoulder will they turn a bluish color? Only had 1 get like that.
I think I'm going to be fine. The necks would start to get red and the shoulder junctionl would start to get a lighter color about the 6 second mark. I had the brass in a long socket and there was no heat getting too far below the shoulder junction. If they get too hot around the shoulder will they turn a bluish color? Only had 1 get like that.
Re: Annealing for first time.
I like a bluish tint to develope below shoulder. If I don't get that I wonder if I annealed enough. I haven't done Tempilac treatment to determine correct time on the flame, but just extrapolated from everything I have read for annealing .308, using a common method (spinning in hand drill with a deep 12mm socket and hitting it with Coleman bottle with blow torch atachememt, no water dunk). When neck gets orange I stop with flame and it's always 8 secs for Win brass (1-1000, 2-1000, etc.).
unrelated but at the range yesterday I scored 33 pieces of fresh once fired Remington .308 & 20 fresh once fired Hornady Match .308, all of it was fired from bolt gun hehehe.... I Love It!!!
Already have them ultrasonic cleaned ready to process.
I like a bluish tint to develope below shoulder. If I don't get that I wonder if I annealed enough. I haven't done Tempilac treatment to determine correct time on the flame, but just extrapolated from everything I have read for annealing .308, using a common method (spinning in hand drill with a deep 12mm socket and hitting it with Coleman bottle with blow torch atachememt, no water dunk). When neck gets orange I stop with flame and it's always 8 secs for Win brass (1-1000, 2-1000, etc.).
unrelated but at the range yesterday I scored 33 pieces of fresh once fired Remington .308 & 20 fresh once fired Hornady Match .308, all of it was fired from bolt gun hehehe.... I Love It!!!
Already have them ultrasonic cleaned ready to process.
