Any of y'all add weight to a Boyd's stock?

[akmike47]

Thinking about adding some lead to my stock, rifle weighs about 8.9 pounds now and I'd like to add close to 2 pounds at least. Arca rail on the way 4oz, and have probably a pound of fishing weights I don't use(switched to tungsten). Probably going to melt them and pour it into some copper and glue it into the butt of the rifle and thinking about decoy strap weights in the channel under the barrel.

Not sure of the demensions for the strap weights but I assume you can cut them somehow. Any better ideas? Trying to glue the lead straps is the biggest issue I foresee.

Strap weights are cheap and shot isn't, also less wasted space with lead straps.

I assume you can cut the straps with sheet metal shears.

 

[Aftermath]

Does that stock have a butt plate?

You could pour the weights into that shape, a little bigger, get longer screws...etc. As far gluing goes, just use pour type epoxy.

 

[akmike47]

Does that stock have a butt plate?

You could pour the weights into that shape, a little bigger, get longer screws...etc. As far gluing goes, just use pour type epoxy.

I was going to drill cavities under the stock, or in the lop spacers I made. Hoping the lead straps aren't too wide for under the barrel.

Think I'm the only person that wants an 11-12 pound 10/22 lol

 

[Aftermath]

No, I get it. I have a straight bull 10/22. I don't recall what brand that barrel is or even where I picked it up. I picked up a Hogue overmold that was made for a big barrel and I had to hog it out a little. It's heavy, no idea how heavy. It's barrel heavy though. But it's accurate and I have pencil marks on my scope for out to 300 yards. I've had it for about 35 years.

Thing is with the lead, you can use regular old wood working tools on it, just be sure to be wearing some nitrile gloves and a mask if you are making some dust.

Document your experiment for posterity and share if it works out or lessons learned.

As for drilling and filling, are you thinking about pouring those cavities? You can calculate the weight (.4097 lb/inch^3) and get an idea of how much to drill, etc. @sirhrmechanic can give you some pointers on the pour side of it all. I think I'd want things poured in or glued in or something so there was no clunking and shit. My OCD would take over and I wouldn't be able to NOT think about that while I was trying to get that trigger pulled.

Edit: that lb/cubic inch does depend on the mix

 

[akmike47]

No, I get it. I have a straight bull 10/22. I don't recall what brand that barrel is or even where I picked it up. I picked up a Hogue overmold that was made for a big barrel and I had to hog it out a little. It's heavy, no idea how heavy. It's barrel heavy though. But it's accurate and I have pencil marks on my scope for out to 300 yards. I've had it for about 35 years.

Thing is with the lead, you can use regular old wood working tools on it, just be sure to be wearing some nitrile gloves and a mask if you are making some dust.

Document your experiment for posterity and share if it works out or lessons learned.

As for drilling and filling, are you thinking about pouring those cavities? You can calculate the weight (.4097 lb/inch^3) and get an idea of how much to drill, etc. @sirhrmechanic can give you some pointers on the pour side of it all. I think I'd want things poured in or glued in or something so there was no clunking and shit. My OCD would take over and I wouldn't be able to NOT think about that while I was trying to get that trigger pulled.

Edit: that lb/cubic inch does depend on the mix

As for the clunking I may pour the lead into copper pipe that's .5-.75"OD and drill a matching hole, more than likely itll Be over sized so I'll ad a few drops of shoe goo, or a few wraps of electrical tape to make it snug but removable.

If my calculations are close it'll be about 11 pounds without lead, and hopefully I can stuff at least a pound in.

 

[camocorvette]

You can add lead anywhere. Just depends if you want to do some stock refinishing or not..

Took a 1907 Annie.

Chopped the stock to fit more like a MSR stock.

The weight was off. Added probably 3-4 pounds to the barrel channel.

Added probably 3-4 lbs to the butt stock.

Added probably 1/2 lbs to the pistol grip.

Balance point once set up for comps.

Yes. That shop is a fucking disaster. Moved home and only have access to my old man's shop that he hasn't entered in 10 years. It's been cleaned up some since then.

Added some LOP.

 

[akmike47]

You can add lead anywhere. Just depends if you want to do some stock refinishing or not..

Took a 1907 Annie. View attachment 8030263

Chopped the stock to fit more like a MSR stock.View attachment 8030264

The weight was off. Added probably 3-4 pounds to the barrel channel. View attachment 8030265View attachment 8030266

Added probably 3-4 lbs to the butt stock. View attachment 8030267

Added probably 1/2 lbs to the pistol grip.View attachment 8030268

Balance point once set up for comps. View attachment 8030269

Yes. That shop is a fucking disaster. Moved home and only have access to my old man's shop that he hasn't entered in 10 years. It's been cleaned up some since then.

Added some LOP.
View attachment 8030271


View attachment 8030272

Wish I had that much room to work with.

 

[camocorvette]

Which stock is it? I'm guessing you'd like to minimize the work you need to do, to hide your adding weights?

Under the butt plate you can hog out a large cavity as long as your careful. Arca rail you can tape off the holes and pour molten lead to the cavities on the underside, then seal with epoxy or marine tex to minimize lead exposure.

That's what I did to the arca rail I had on my Annie.

Barrel channel you can hog out a bunch as long as your careful and pour your molten lead to be below the top of the barrel channel. Then cap with marine tex or Elmer's wood putty that dries hard.

 

[akmike47]

Which stock is it? I'm guessing you'd like to minimize the work you need to do, to hide your adding weights?

Under the butt plate you can hog out a large cavity as long as your careful. Arca rail you can tape off the holes and pour molten lead to the cavities on the underside, then seal with epoxy or marine tex to minimize lead exposure. View attachment 8030285
That's what I did to the arca rail I had on my Annie.

Barrel channel you can hog out a bunch as long as your careful and pour your molten lead to be below the top of the barrel channel. Then cap with marine tex or Elmer's wood putty that dries hard.

Boyd tacticool think it's a pro varmint now. It's already butt heavy with a 20" bull barrel so I don't want to put too much back there, but maybe equal to whatever I can put up front.

I thought about putting shot in the back of the rail. Boyds stocks have a 1/2"X1/2" or so void under the barrel. So it's whatever I can pack in there. I think lead decoy straps are going to fill the most space but I'll probably have to cut it down both directions, not sure on the width of them.

 

[Sc0-]

29oz steel ARCA rail, https://l3idesignsolutions.com/product/14-inch-universal-arca-rail-heavy-steel/

Had bad luck with a Boyd Tacticool years back with a CZ 455, would say to replace it with something better than invest time into it only to hear it crack when torquing the action back in...

 

[akmike47]

29oz steel ARCA rail, https://l3idesignsolutions.com/product/14-inch-universal-arca-rail-heavy-steel/

Had bad luck with a Boyd Tacticool years back with a CZ 455, would say to replace it with something better than invest time into it only to hear it crack when torquing the action back in...

why would I replace a stock on a rifle that shoots crazy groups? It's 10-12 years old and never had an issue. Already ordered another rail, hence the lead.

I don't gorilla fuck the screws into it I just tighten them fairly snug and go shoot.

 

[45cal4life]

I've done lead shot with devcon with good success

 

[akmike47]

Got some lead straps with some work I can probably add about a pound of them.

 

[camocorvette]

That should help add some weight. If you have a buddy with a mill or a shop that would do it. I still vote for hogging out the bartel channel. I looked up that stock. Looks like a nice stock. Definitely thinner then what I was working with. Post updates when you get there.

 

[akmike47]

That should help add some weight. If you have a buddy with a mill or a shop that would do it. I still vote for hogging out the bartel channel. I looked up that stock. Looks like a nice stock. Definitely thinner then what I was working with. Post updates when you get there.

Thinking about getting wood burr to widen the pocket a bit

 

[camocorvette]

It would give you a large area to add weight. It's not hard to hide it either.

 

[akmike47]

It would give you a large area to add weight. It's not hard to hide it either.

I may post pictures if it doesn't look like complete shit

 

[SanPatHogger]

What about lead wheel weights and casting some ingots. Then mount them and be moveable.
Lee ingot mould is fairly basic. Cornbread weights would be different.

 

[BigDaddy0381]

This is what I did to a stock a while back, it turned out great. Not much tungsten powder was needed. I still have alot left from that jug.

RemX ammo testing!

I finnaly got to put the remX together with the proof comp contour Barrel, Elfman R700 trigger, AG composite stock. Threw a element optic titan on it and off for some testing. All in all I think this might be a good shooter The set up These two groups were @ 50 yards and 10 shots This was...

www.snipershide.com

 

[akmike47]

I undercut into the sides of the forend and put about a pound of lead give or take. It'll need some in the butt I'm sure once the bipods on.

I did find out my barrel doesn't free float in the front there's marks on the barrel....it shot great before so I'm wondering if I should screw with it. I know some guys let the barrel touch up front on these.

I'm guessing it's 18oz or so bipod and arca rails another 2.1-2.2 pounds.

Broke out the dremel, so you could say I'm a gunsmith...

Would the regular old two part 30min epoxy be good enough to glue this, the shit in the syringe?

 

[akmike47]

What about lead wheel weights and casting some ingots. Then mount them and be moveable.
Lee ingot mould is fairly basic. Cornbread weights would be different.
View attachment 8031205

Make brownies in one of those, looks yummy....

 

[camocorvette]

You can fit more in there if you melt it in a pot and pour it in. Won't start the stock on fire.
But that looks like it will work perfect for your needs. Yeah some 2 part epoxy would work well. Just remember your gonna have to sand it down. So don't get the super strength 9000 epoxy or you will be at it for a while. Ask me how I know... haha

 

[akmike47]

You can fit more in there if you melt it in a pot and pour it in. Won't start the stock on fire.
But that looks like it will work perfect for your needs. Yeah some 2 part epoxy would work well. Just remember your gonna have to sand it down. So don't get the super strength 9000 epoxy or you will be at it for a while. Ask me how I know... haha

There's at least 1/8-3/16" gap between the top of the lead and the lowest point on the barrel channel so I shouldn't have to sand anything luckily. I bought the thinner straps so they would leave space.

 

[akmike47]

Only issue...

Putting t-nuts under the weights hopefully they never strip.

I may just lash the straps together with braided fishing line they fit pretty snug or CA some thin ply over them so it can be removed if needed

Honestly some drops of thick CA would hold them in place its such a snug fit

 

[SanPatHogger]

Only issue...

Putting t-nuts under the weights hopefully they never strip.

I may just lash the straps together with braided fishing line they fit pretty snug or CA some thin ply over them so it can be removed if needed

Honestly some drops of thick CA would hold them in place its such a snug fit

What about some type of liquid rubber like flexseal? You're just looking to keep the weights from rattling and falling out right? If you need to take it back apart you should/might be able to pop most of it out with a flat blade screwdriver or a skinny scraper.

I added t-nuts to my wood 243 stock. I epoxied them in. Hope to never have to take it apart.

 

[camocorvette]

Yeah i stripped a screw into the wood stock of my Annie putting the t-slot rail back in. Drilled it bigger and put steel epoxy in and tapped that. Hopefully you don't have any issues.

 

[akmike47]

What about some type of liquid rubber like flexseal? You're just looking to keep the weights from rattling and falling out right? If you need to take it back apart you should/might be able to pop most of it out with a flat blade screwdriver or a skinny scraper.

I added t-nuts to my wood 243 stock. I epoxied them in. Hope to never have to take it apart.

The more I think bout it the more just putting drops of gel CA where the lead touches in a few spots seems like the way to go. Only way it’ll bust loose is dropping my rifle probably, but if it doesn’t stick no big deal try something else


Of course the one spot with 3 layers of tape instead of 4 got hit by the chuck on my Dremel and fucked up the edge lol...oh well.

 

[camocorvette]

Could always just put some hot glue on the edges to hold it. Should hold well unless exposed to extreme temp swings and lots of jarring. Then either mask off and paint or apply paint with a brush to hide.

 

[akmike47]

Some Gel CA on the top seams of the lead worked great it’s not bonded to the stock at all, it’s a press fit in there and the outside two are pocketed into the wood. I even held the stock upside down and hit it on my hand a few times and it didn’t budge.

Few gripes, Boyd’s didn’t drill the two sling stud holes in line perfectly so the rail is a little off to the side in the back but not a ton. I drilled the rear hole slightly over size to help a bit with that. Also I have to remove the rail to remove the action. The screw hole in the back is too small to fit a flathead, and I would have had to mount the rail too far forward if it was big enough.



I’m leaving the wood spacer clear coated I think, I like the contrast of crap and higher end. I need to make another it’s still too short.

 

[camocorvette]

Heck yeah! It may not be exactly how you wanted it. But it looks fully functional

 

[Aftermath]

I like the contrast of crap and higher end.

HAHA!! Which are you considering the crap?

 

[akmike47]

HAHA!! Which are you considering the crap?

The old shelving board spacer, 100 stock and $109 barrel(at the time for both)

 

[JAS-SH]

Thinking about adding some lead to my stock, rifle weighs about 8.9 pounds now and I'd like to add close to 2 pounds at least. Arca rail on the way 4oz, and have probably a pound of fishing weights I don't use(switched to tungsten). Probably going to melt them and pour it into some copper and glue it into the butt of the rifle and thinking about decoy strap weights in the channel under the barrel.

Not sure of the demensions for the strap weights but I assume you can cut them somehow. Any better ideas? Trying to glue the lead straps is the biggest issue I foresee.

Strap weights are cheap and shot isn't, also less wasted space with lead straps.

I assume you can cut the straps with sheet metal shears.

There's a lot of options here.

First you have to decide where you want the weight. Do you want the rifle to be balanced, front or rear heavy?

Rifles by nature of their length work like a playground seesaw. A little weight goes a long way at the ends. Putting weight in the middle, not so much. It all depends on what you want to do.

In my case, I've determined that my .22 trainer is very front light compared to my PRS rifle. It's still a 12-pound rifle though. That changes the whole dynamics of the trainer.

KRG has some "Heavy" alternate pieces and some are also functional, like say "heavy" Arca rails for the front of the rifle. that can add 2-pounds with the extra spacer. Some of course are specific to KRG stocks, but some are not and some others can be adapted.

Go here:

KRG Heavy Accessories

 

[akmike47]

There's a lot of options here.

First you have to decide where you want the weight. Do you want the rifle to be balanced, front or rear heavy?

Rifles by nature of their length work like a playground seesaw. A little weight goes a long way at the ends. Putting weight in the middle, not so much. It all depends on what you want to do.

In my case, I've determined that my .22 trainer is very front light compared to my PRS rifle. It's still a 12-pound rifle though. That changes the whole dynamics of the trainer.

KRG has some "Heavy" alternate pieces and some are also functional, like say "heavy" Arca rails for the front of the rifle. that can add 2-pounds with the extra spacer. Some of course are specific to KRG stocks, but some are not and some others can be adapted.

Go here:

KRG Heavy Accessories

It's done lol

 

[akmike47]

I lied, I need to balance it when I get my trigger may need weight in back. No since it taking it apart again

 

[camocorvette]

Yeah I balanced my rifle on a narrow board. Then attach a plastic grocery bag to the side you need weight and add weight until it balances.

 

[SanPatHogger]

Yeah I balanced my rifle on a narrow board. Then attach a plastic grocery bag to the side you need weight and add weight until it balances.

Simple and effective, I like it.
If you're adding weigh in the buttstock you could use lead wheel weights in the bag. Then drill a hole in a 2x4, melt the weights and pour them in the hole. Use the same drill bit on the stock, then just glue the poured weight into the hole.

 

[akmike47]

Added more lead in the back side of the ARCA rail, probably up to 13-13.5 with bipod.

 

[Aftermath]

Added more lead in the back side of the ARCA rail, probably up to 13-13.5 with bipod.

Holy shit, Mike. You might consider extra gym time just so you can shoot that heavy bastard.
Do you do the "slung up" stuff for off hand and such?
I truly enjoy practicing those with every rifle I can get slung up on. I have several Turner slings. I really like the Biothane versions and use those on my hunting rifles but have the true to scale leather stuff on the M1, 03A3, M1A1 and I put one on an AR15A2.
Edit: I also have a leather Turner on an M2-22. Man!!! I love THAT 22LR!

 

[akmike47]

Holy shit, Mike. You might consider extra gym time just so you can shoot that heavy bastard.
Do you do the "slung up" stuff for off hand and such?
I truly enjoy practicing those with every rifle I can get slung up on. I have several Turner slings. I really like the Biothane versions and use those on my hunting rifles but have the true to scale leather stuff on the M1, 03A3, M1A1 and I put one on an AR15A2.
Edit: I also have a leather Turner on an M2-22. Man!!! I love THAT 22LR!

Barricade shooting, I have a rifle I do need a sling for with intl sights.

 

[akmike47]

13.3 pounds with bipod actually weighed it. Should be done unless it needs a few ounces to balance

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Trick for adding weight in cavities.

Buy some inexpensive food storage bags. Insert them into stock cavities, then partly fill them with Bismuth Powder/Nodules, which is nearly the same weight/density as lead, but is not toxic (I used it for ballast in Cub Scout Pinewood Derby cars, which prohibit toxic substance contents). If the cavity opens out within, it will lock the ballast in, so start with inserting a straight, untapered liner before inserting the bag, (find some fired shotgun hulls to use for this, remove the bases). Or not, if you want it solidly locked in.

Remove the bag, add mixed epoxy - just enough to coat the nodules. Restuff bag into recess before it begins to cure, be sure it's taped/wired shut securely.

Once cured; hopefully, it can still be removable, but...

Hoping this helps.

Greg

 

[akmike47]

Went to the range, shoots well and cycles subs. Couldn’t get down on my rifle so I was sort of hovering and still shooting 1/4” groups at 25 and .5-.9 at 50 with subs and supers.

Not my best shooting by any means but haven’t shot in a year either on-top of the crap benches made for children apparently. I had a 3 shot .13” going at 50yd and my next two shots opened it to .91....fucking bulk ammo lol.

Excuses excuses I know...lol but you’ve seen my .142 5 shot. I’d like to see what it does with match grade as well as it can shoot bulk when I get lucky and 5 round so are made similar enough.

 

[Rippey715]

Here was my solution: 1.5”x.385”x12” 385 brass stock from onlinematels.com $37. Cut it in half and each piece weighs exactly one pound. Little bit of finish work left to do but I did t want to literally sand off the weight. These are on a Rhineland Leopard stock that was pre drilled on each side for adding pic rails or whatever so I was able to bolt straight to the existing hardware. Rifle now weighs around 16lbs.

 

[akmike47]

Here was my solution: 1.5”x.385”x12” 385 brass stock from onlinematels.com $37. Cut it in half and each piece weighs exactly one pound. Little bit of finish work left to do but I did t want to literally sand off the weight. These are on a Rhineland Leopard stock that was pre drilled on each side for adding pic rails or whatever so I was able to bolt straight to the existing hardware. Rifle now weighs around 16lbs.
View attachment 8041491

Thought about this,but my stock is rounded on the sides and I’d rather remove material from inside than outside.

 

[Bandit320]

Thinking about adding some lead to my stock, rifle weighs about 8.9 pounds now and I'd like to add close to 2 pounds at least. Arca rail on the way 4oz, and have probably a pound of fishing weights I don't use(switched to tungsten). Probably going to melt them and pour it into some copper and glue it into the butt of the rifle and thinking about decoy strap weights in the channel under the barrel.

Not sure of the demensions for the strap weights but I assume you can cut them somehow. Any better ideas? Trying to glue the lead straps is the biggest issue I foresee.

Strap weights are cheap and shot isn't, also less wasted space with lead straps.

I assume you can cut the straps with sheet metal shears.

I’ve got a Pro Varmint stock on the way for my 6.5 Grendel Predator. What rail did you order? It sounds like you used the sling studs to mount it. Do they hold it secure to the stock or did you have to “bed” it to the stock? Thanks.

 

[akmike47]

I’ve got a Pro Varmint stock on the way for my 6.5 Grendel Predator. What rail did you order? It sounds like you used the sling studs to mount it. Do they hold it secure to the stock or did you have to “bed” it to the stock? Thanks.

12” Area 419, wish I’d done the 14” weighted version . I used the front sling studs and added another blind nut towards the magwell. It’s solid I did sand a spot to the rear that had a rise to it but the rest was flat enough I rolled with it.

 

[Bandit320]

Sounds great, thanks.

 

[akmike47]

Sounds great, thanks.

Pretty sure on centerfire you can use the rear hole on the rail with a longer action screw. Since mine was for a 10/22 I used the second to last hole and a blind nut, but I can put an Allen wrench through the last hole to access my action screw and still have the rail where I wanted it.